November 2010
Hope someone can help or give me ideas of things to check. I have a 2004 santa fe 2.4 petrol. Its the 4 cylinder 16v engine. When warm the car has a major hesitation issue at 2000 rpm. Its as if it closes the throttle body for 2 to 3 seconds then re-opens. Its getting worse recently but doesnt seem to be related to external temps. Ive sat with a scanner plugged in and live readings off the o2 sensors seem to be in the normal range, the cats aren't blocked, Ive changed the coils and plugs and the throttlebody is nice and clean etc. Air filter is relatively new and the car has had injectorcleaner through it. None of which has helped or changed the issue. fuel filter is a cow to swap and in my opinion wouldnt cause the issue. Would a faulty air flow meter give these symptons or a dodgy knock sensor maybe? Even possibly the EGR system? Read more
Got some 'perishing' near the rims on the tyres on the Santa Fe - they're 2.5 years old from new, done 35000 miles, the fronts are getting low but the rears are still holding 4mm tread. Need to replace them but do Kumho's perish and age quickly? Seems to be happening quickly on this set.
If not Kumhos, what others are worth a look at? Read more
Kumhos are great, I had a couple of sets years back when they were still cheap. More of a medium range tyre than a budget now. Last set of tyres I bought were Nangkangs, which are cheaper, handle just as well, but seem a bit quieter.
The hydraulic suspension fluid level warning light keeps coming on but the level is correct, the engine dies momentarily when crusing but picks up if foot kept on the accelerator and the cruise control works intermittently,,,,,are these faults connected and what is the cause or causes - the Citreon people are scratching their heads and making mega expensive noises Read more
Moved to Technical.
Very early moments of an idea but can any of our dealer/trader members (or anyone else) tell me what services car dealers and/or those in the motor trade might purchase on a regular or irregular basis?
My list currently includes:... Read more
Pressure washer and wellies
My less than mechanically minded son recently inherited a Pug 307 1.6 petrol from his FiL. It is overdue a service, may need a cambelt change, & MOT expires end December. Is there a Peugeot specialist in or near Cardiff that anyone can recommend? I've looked on the Good Garages section & nothing comes up.
The other option he has identified himself is Kwik Fit. I know they don't have a good reputation, but I also know they vary by branch. Is the Cardiff one any good? Read more
Have used European Auto Services before. They're at the rear Of, 2, Partridge Road, Cardiff, CF24 3QX.
Phone is 02920 495 865...
hi i'm having problems with my 306 something shorted out and melted a brown wire in the passenger footwell i called the aa who turned up and cut the wire (oh so helpful ) since then ive had no heater if i reconnect the wire the fuse for the front elec windows blows i have tried to trace the short but due to my haynes manual not having the correct wiring diagram or layout of the loom i am unable to find the heater resistor pack would anyone have any idea where i might find the resistor pack? also the car has developed an intermittent starting problem due im sure to the short circuit it can also cut out whilst driving if i give the loom a wiggle where the melted cable was cut the car will start.
any advice regarding this problem would be gratefully accepted... Read more
hi i've managed to "hotwire" the heater by finding a spare fuse and running a cable straight to the heater motor now all heater and air con works fine with the burnt out wire still cut lovely to have heat again but the starting problem still persists i did check both sides of the scuttle and the drivers side one was blocked with leaves so the main wiring connector was sat in about 2 inches of water i have taken it apart and checked and cleaned it all seems fine no burnt looking bits but she still decides not to start sometimes, i thought maybe it was the stop solenoid so i slackened off the diesel feed to the rail and turned her over and only a small amount of diesel pushed out could this be my problem? if so how do i remove the solenoid as its not the one described in the manual i tried taking out the bit that the wires go into (small casing with a pin that goes into the pump) and turned it over but didnt get any diesel to pump out so im not really sure if this actually is the solenoid or not or if my problem is still with the wiring and not the solenoid as most of the fuel pump connections are electrical not mechanical ( no throttle cables to the pump directally only wires from the throttle assembly to the pump) any ideas on what to check next and how to do it would be very much appreciated
paul
HELP - Looking for some advice.
A couple of days ago my LCD display failed. It looks normal for the first few seconds on starting the car then turns very bright and it's really difficult to read.... Read more
Anyone??
My car has been off the road for a while and I recently changed the car to negative earth, which only involved connecting a battery charger to the car in place of a battery and 'flashing' the dynamo. I disconnected the charger and thought no more about it.
At the wekend I connected the car up to a battery charger again to test the lights. When I connected it up, the needle on the charger went to max and a murmering sound started coming from the dynamo. The red light on the dash was bright even though the key was in the 'off' position. When I turned the key to 'on' the ignition light went out!
With the dynamo disconnected all else seems normal.
Does antyone have any idea what the problem could be, and is it connected to me 'flashing the dynamo? Despite lots of information on the web I wasn't sure how to 'flash' the dynamo. Should the car be connected to the battery charger with the ignition on, or off? Do you connect the big and small terminals together with both spade connectors in place, or removed?
It might be time for me to change over to an alternator, but I am reluctant to do so because the instructions for how to deal with the wires of the regulator are not clear. If anyone can help, I will let you know what my regulator wires are coded as.
Very grateful in anticipatiion of assistance.
Read more
Type "alternator conversion" into Google;one of the websites on there even includes a circuit diagram.
great package gets you in a medium mercedes engined suv for very little outlay Read more
Hello everyone, I have found this forum very useful in the past but now I am at a loss.
My meriva "55 1.6 easytronic breeze has developed a ?central locking fault.
Went out this morning, arrived a destination, went to get out and the radio didnt turn off when I took out key. Turned it off manually. Opened door and the beep alarm started, thought I may have lights or indicators on but everything off. Hmm. Went to central lock car and nothing, no clicking whirring zilch. Great. Put key in lock and it only opens/closes drivers door. So I had to jump in and lock other 3.
Basically central locking not working, radio doesnt turn off when key taken out of ignition, and alarm beep noise when I open door telling me something is on/engaged.
Done synchronizing of key and nothing, tried using spare key and nothing, checked fuses all intact. Forgot to add the steering lock not engaging.
Any ideas please?
Kindest regards to all
Garry Read more
Sir elekie&a/c doctor, I bow and honour you, you have solved my problem.
Went out early this morning, sprayed wd40 into the key hole, done this a few times, and hey presto!...
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Should have updated this earlier but I've resolved the hesitation issue above.
The problem seems to have been down to a faulty electrical connection and was resolved by unplugging electrical connectors on the two coil packs and spraying with WD40! ...