November 2010
The hydraulic suspension fluid level warning light keeps coming on but the level is correct, the engine dies momentarily when crusing but picks up if foot kept on the accelerator and the cruise control works intermittently,,,,,are these faults connected and what is the cause or causes - the Citreon people are scratching their heads and making mega expensive noises Read more
Very early moments of an idea but can any of our dealer/trader members (or anyone else) tell me what services car dealers and/or those in the motor trade might purchase on a regular or irregular basis?
My list currently includes:... Read more
Pressure washer and wellies
My less than mechanically minded son recently inherited a Pug 307 1.6 petrol from his FiL. It is overdue a service, may need a cambelt change, & MOT expires end December. Is there a Peugeot specialist in or near Cardiff that anyone can recommend? I've looked on the Good Garages section & nothing comes up.
The other option he has identified himself is Kwik Fit. I know they don't have a good reputation, but I also know they vary by branch. Is the Cardiff one any good? Read more
Have used European Auto Services before. They're at the rear Of, 2, Partridge Road, Cardiff, CF24 3QX.
Phone is 02920 495 865...
hi i'm having problems with my 306 something shorted out and melted a brown wire in the passenger footwell i called the aa who turned up and cut the wire (oh so helpful ) since then ive had no heater if i reconnect the wire the fuse for the front elec windows blows i have tried to trace the short but due to my haynes manual not having the correct wiring diagram or layout of the loom i am unable to find the heater resistor pack would anyone have any idea where i might find the resistor pack? also the car has developed an intermittent starting problem due im sure to the short circuit it can also cut out whilst driving if i give the loom a wiggle where the melted cable was cut the car will start.
any advice regarding this problem would be gratefully accepted... Read more
hi i've managed to "hotwire" the heater by finding a spare fuse and running a cable straight to the heater motor now all heater and air con works fine with the burnt out wire still cut lovely to have heat again but the starting problem still persists i did check both sides of the scuttle and the drivers side one was blocked with leaves so the main wiring connector was sat in about 2 inches of water i have taken it apart and checked and cleaned it all seems fine no burnt looking bits but she still decides not to start sometimes, i thought maybe it was the stop solenoid so i slackened off the diesel feed to the rail and turned her over and only a small amount of diesel pushed out could this be my problem? if so how do i remove the solenoid as its not the one described in the manual i tried taking out the bit that the wires go into (small casing with a pin that goes into the pump) and turned it over but didnt get any diesel to pump out so im not really sure if this actually is the solenoid or not or if my problem is still with the wiring and not the solenoid as most of the fuel pump connections are electrical not mechanical ( no throttle cables to the pump directally only wires from the throttle assembly to the pump) any ideas on what to check next and how to do it would be very much appreciated
paul
HELP - Looking for some advice.
A couple of days ago my LCD display failed. It looks normal for the first few seconds on starting the car then turns very bright and it's really difficult to read.... Read more
Anyone??
My car has been off the road for a while and I recently changed the car to negative earth, which only involved connecting a battery charger to the car in place of a battery and 'flashing' the dynamo. I disconnected the charger and thought no more about it.
At the wekend I connected the car up to a battery charger again to test the lights. When I connected it up, the needle on the charger went to max and a murmering sound started coming from the dynamo. The red light on the dash was bright even though the key was in the 'off' position. When I turned the key to 'on' the ignition light went out!
With the dynamo disconnected all else seems normal.
Does antyone have any idea what the problem could be, and is it connected to me 'flashing the dynamo? Despite lots of information on the web I wasn't sure how to 'flash' the dynamo. Should the car be connected to the battery charger with the ignition on, or off? Do you connect the big and small terminals together with both spade connectors in place, or removed?
It might be time for me to change over to an alternator, but I am reluctant to do so because the instructions for how to deal with the wires of the regulator are not clear. If anyone can help, I will let you know what my regulator wires are coded as.
Very grateful in anticipatiion of assistance.
Read more
Type "alternator conversion" into Google;one of the websites on there even includes a circuit diagram.
great package gets you in a medium mercedes engined suv for very little outlay Read more
Hello everyone, I have found this forum very useful in the past but now I am at a loss.
My meriva "55 1.6 easytronic breeze has developed a ?central locking fault.
Went out this morning, arrived a destination, went to get out and the radio didnt turn off when I took out key. Turned it off manually. Opened door and the beep alarm started, thought I may have lights or indicators on but everything off. Hmm. Went to central lock car and nothing, no clicking whirring zilch. Great. Put key in lock and it only opens/closes drivers door. So I had to jump in and lock other 3.
Basically central locking not working, radio doesnt turn off when key taken out of ignition, and alarm beep noise when I open door telling me something is on/engaged.
Done synchronizing of key and nothing, tried using spare key and nothing, checked fuses all intact. Forgot to add the steering lock not engaging.
Any ideas please?
Kindest regards to all
Garry Read more
Sir elekie&a/c doctor, I bow and honour you, you have solved my problem.
Went out early this morning, sprayed wd40 into the key hole, done this a few times, and hey presto!...
53mpg from the V6 twin-turbo Jag, when Clarkson wasn't even trying to drive economically for most of the trip ... that's pretty impressive. As was 60+mpg from the Subaru! Read more
I doubt 70mph even in a Jag demands 150 hp:) More like 35.
I don't want to identify the make or dealership as I want to give them an opportunity to deal with this amicably hopefully!
last month I bought a six month old car that had been owned by the dealership since new. The engine has been upgraded this year, and this vehicle was clearly advertised as having the spec of the updated model, i.e. more efficient, lower emissions. My order lists the tax band as being the updated spec.... Read more
It needs to go back or you need a financial settlement. A financial settlement would be very difficult to calculate because there are a number of factors - lower value, more costly to keep and run - plus the imponderable of how long you are going to keep the vehicle.
My feeling is you need to get agreement to return with a reasonable discount for the mileage you have done and then either renegotiate for the car as it is - or alternatively you get a later model.
The later model route is probably the one to go if one is available as dealers tend to be more accommodating if this is an option rather than having to refund.
It sounds as if you are currently happy to handle this yourself but if you feel you would benefit from legal assistance or additional legal clout in the negotiations I will normally run cases like this on a no-win-no-fee basis whereby you only pay us an amount we quote beforehand if we reach a pre-agreed outcome.
You are aware of our costs at all times and only receive a bill from us if we reach the result we have agreed with you.
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Moved to Technical.