January 2010
Does anyone have any software that could read the codes from my 03 TDCi fiesta? It's got a plug but the software that I have used with other cars (Toyota and Vauxhall) doesn;t read anything from it.
If you could post on rapidshare or email it to me (cotton69 at gmail.com) that would be excellent! Read more
The passenger door lock does the opposite to the other three doors. So when all doors are locked and I press the button to unlock the doors the passenger door remains locked and the other three doors open.
To open it, I have to lean over and physically open the door.
When I get out of the car and press lock, the three doors lock and the passenger door the button goes down but immediately pops back up. I then have to walk around to the passenger door, open it physically push the button down, then close the door.
Has anyone experienced this and know how to fix it? Read more
As oilburner says it's a common problem on these cars. Before paying out for new locks you can try reseting the UEM first:
- Close all of the doors and bonnet.
- Key in position II engine not running.
- Hold both the driver window and passenger window switches in the driver door panel in the closed or up position for 5 to 8 seconds after the windows are closed.
- Release buttons.
- Remove the ignition key.
- Operated the remote twice. lock/unlock lock/unlock.
This will reset the UEM brain. This can correct faulty operation of the sunroof and/or erratic door lock function.
Thanks to oilburner for the above. It may or may not work but worth a shot before paying out cash.
The front passenger side door lock and the rear drivers side door lock have jammed shut locked. The car is an XTD and has central locking. I manged to get the interior door panel off and have tried to figure out a way to open the door. I am now at the stage of knocking the plastic off the lock mechanism to get in to the lock to unlock the door.
Any ideas on how to unlock the door and get it open so I can replace the lock.
I have been told that the usual problem is a small spring in the lock mechanism.
Unfortunately to get a lock from a scrap yard they will only sell you the whole door £50 or a new lock mechanism from a parts center is £60. Any cheaper ideas would be appreciated!
Thanks
John Read more
got the locks sorted. £55 for the two. They get to me teus morn, then my mot weds. Hopefully no more technicalities!
Can anyone advise, I have the rear discs with the bearing in my 1.6 Hdi 307 and the NS one is making a noise. The pads were replaced about 2 months ago and I only do a few miles. I also had the wheel bearing done. So does that mean the other disc will not need replaced or can you replace the wheel bearing without doing the disc, or do both have to be done? Also have heard scary stories about replacing the pads with new discs, does it really have to be done? The disc looks rusty etc thru the alloy so I'm guessing it needs replacing. Can you just do one disc? I know its not advisable but is it possible? Read more
I think you're confusing the hub and the disc - the bearing and hub can't be separated, and hence you have to replace both if the bearing goes, making it more expensive than just a bearing replacement. No problem with replacing one bearing. You will have to remove the disc in order to replace the hub / bearing, which as bell boy says might destroy the disc. Discs must always replace be replaced in pairs, unless you fancy ending up in the nearest ditch, and as bb says, new pads unless the ones in there are relatively new. Discs £22.75ea and pad set £28.45 (all + HMG's share!) from GSF, so not the end of the world
Hi All,
Looking for suggestions for a replacement car.
Need practicality, good economy and ground clearance for regular farm track access. Only need 2wd.
Must have 5 doors and be able to fit a Golden Retriever in the boot and be no smaller than medium hatch - would consider an estate though.
Unfortunately a Berlingo or Kangoo or Doblo is out of the question on looks! Shame as its a favourite of mine but the car is not for me.
I reckon a diesel Rover Streetwise might do - any ideas anyone?
Ta muchly.
David. Read more
1.3 Ignis is FWD - the 1.5 manual is 4WD via viscous coupling.
i bought a ford fusion 1.4 tdci on friday and all was ok until it refused to start. the aa came pumped the diesel pump and the car roared into life. the aa man advised that there was air in the line and to run the car. did this and all was again ok until when driving on the motorway, the aec fail warning came on and the car gave up.
the aa came out again, couldn't see what was wrong but that there was still air bubbles. the car was towed home but started first time when i got home.
the aec fail light has never cam on again but the car doesn't always start. Sometimes pumping the fuel pump gets it going. the pump is now never hard.
the other thing is that when the car doesn't start i wiggled an electrical connection attached to the fuel lines, maybe the fuel cut off sensor, and the car burst into life.
now every time the car refuses to start, a quick wiggle and it starts again or starts when it feels like it without me touching the wiring. I went to ford and they wanted £134 for the fuel cut-off wiring loom and i have tried to source a used 1 but have had no luck
the electrical connection was removed though and cleaned but the car started without it so not sure what to do and don't want garage trying everything and costing a fortune. Read more
have you had any luck with this problem? I quite fancy buying a diesel Fusion and would appreciate knowing what the remedy is, just in case it happens!
cheers
I am no dum dum but have a "glitch" with warning light. Car seviced 3 weeks ago and all was fine. On latest journey after 5 miles or so the light flickers on and off, I pull over swtch off and check level, coolant for oil, oil spater exesive exhaust smoke all ok. Continue and light off then after 15 miles on and stays on. Took advice from ameture fitter to keep eye on everything.
Now the light STAYS on, engine sounds fine no pinking or knocking and oil is getting to top of engine, The light is now NOT on when ignition sequence test occours but sometimes on during a journey. Am I looking at a faulty switch or worse, or am I just thick. All and any advice please. Read more
This is a risky approach. Have the pressure measured and if appropriate a new switch fitted. This flickering if like throwing £10 notes out on the window as you drive along. Regards Peter
the plastic bit with your mush on
can anyone tell me what is the use of this other than a revenue puller?
you cant hire a car with it
you cant use it as a legal proof
its not accepted anywhere on its own
worthless govt rubbish
please advise im wrong Read more
One slightly obscure use: if you use campsites in France (especially the excellent Municipal ones), you'll usually be asked for your Carte D'identite or an International Camping Carnet when you try to check-in. This seems to have become more common in the last couple of years. Your UK passport won't do, as it's proof of address they are after. The more jobsworth the manager, the more insistent they are. Happily, a UK photo licence will do nicely, as it does include your address.
I can't quite believe I have done this....
It's not the fact that I have bought a car blind (I did that with the Outback and I was very happy) but that I have actually swapped the Outback for a Volvo XC90 D5 SE.
Last weekend was a bit of a last straw moment. We went out with the children and a friend or two and had to take both cars. A bit silly, especially as the destinations were only two or three miles away. However SWMBO had been complaining almost since I bought the car that there was very little legroom in the back seat and it was more comfortable to go out five handed in the A-class than my car, the children are getting bigger and I need a car capable of taking five of us with luggage or seven people in relative comfort.
So we gave the matter a lot of thought. We knew that we wanted a seven seater and as it was going to be my car, my wife decided I was not going to drive an MPV but a 4x4 as it suited her image of me better [sigh]!. Actually I was very happy with that decision, but it left a conundrum. I don't wan't an Audi Q7 (ugly and too expensive), I can't afford a seven seat BMW X5 (do they make them?), the Mercedes ML did do a seven seat model in the Mk1 version but it was a dog to drive and I will not have a Jeep under any circumstances. That left talking either Japanese or Volvo. The Japanese (Shogun, Landcruiser, Navarra etc) were good value but after an Outback rather basic inside, slow and uneconomical and I wanted the appeal of a comfortable car. So Volvo it was. There are a lot for sale, but I really want in-built SatNav and the Winter Pack so it reduced my choice somewhat.
Eventually I found what appears to be the ideal car. I decided that I would be better off looking for a young high mileage specimen rather than a five year old school run car. I found, at a Volvo dealer, a 78,000 miles D5 example that is not yet three years old (it will be in March). With all the kit I want and nothing I don't need. The beauty is that the dealer selling it, sold it to the owner, serviced it from new and have just sold him another XC90 - his third. So he obviously has had good service and with my paltry 9,000 miles pa, I won't be putting too much extra stress on what I assume is a well run in engine.
Price - well I could have bought a two year older slightly higher spec car with less miles for more than I paid and I got a decent price for the Outback. I will be sorry to see it go.
My only dilemma is the Comms Pack. I need to insert the SIM card into the car to make the phone work. This is a bit of a pain. I thought about getting a second number and diverting all calls form one to the other (its free on my mobile account) but can't quite work out how to make it work efficiently. Any ideas?
Read more
You 'don't trust the Captiva'?
An odd thing for you to say, since you've just dropped considerably more than the street price of a 7 seat Cappie on a high mileage Volvo that you are now thinking of selling!
Perhaps it would be best to give those instincts of yours a miss during your next purchasing foray?
I cam only repeat that after 20K miles, I have found the Captiva an excellent family car, a first rate caravan tow car - and, perhaps most importantly, a 100% reliable car.
For £16,000 (haggle price) with 7 seats, 3 year warranty, and a 60,000 mile service package chucked in, I'm more than happy.
I certainly 'trust' it!
My friend owns a 1996 'P' plate Nissan Micra, which has done just over 100,000 miles. She is thinking of getting rid of it to save money. The car is slightly battered, but has been reliable and it is a fairly high-spec 1.3 GX model with an airbag and power steering.
She rekons no-one will want it and wants to scrap it, but has only been offered £30 for it, is this a realistic scrappage price?
If it is scrappped how much can you realistically strip off the car before it goes? (she has already removed the CD player)
I rekon she should stick it on eBay listing the faults, but i feel a lack of MOT will put buyers off, is this a realistic option? Read more
No...i think this is not the realistic price for scapping a car and we can't decide the scrap car value without analyzing it. So better you contact some other car scrap dealer who can give you somewhat more than this.
Browse
I would contact Genden.