January 2010
Firstly, a big thank you to Panda_man for the excellent advice on how to remove my suspension arms from my ball-joints! I tried to thank him a little while ago on my original thread, but the site seemed to be having problems.
So, now to the present...I have just replaced the clucth in my pug 406 Hdi 90.
All has gone well so far (Inexperienced DIY mechanic) but I am having a problem with my clutch release bearing. The old one was completely disintegrated (so that was what the loud bang was!) and so I am unsure of the fittings that go along with it.
How do I post pictures on here?
On the transmission input shaft, there is a loose sleeve (looks like a short piece of pipe with a lip at one end - not sure if it has a specific name. This tube seems to fit in the new release bearing, but I am unsure if it is just a remnant part of the old bearing. The inside surface of the new release bearing is plastic, so I don't think it would go directly onto the input shaft. Also, the back end of the release earing is plasic - would the release arm push directly onto this?
Thanks in advance to any help you can give.
Kevin. Read more
hi,
is it possible that a loose timing chain could be causing the horrendous rattle coming from my micra engine?
my tiny car has gone from being as quiet as a mouse to sounding just like an old diesel taxi!
thing is, it came on immediately yesterday. was fine at 9am when i went to the shops, by 10am on the way home the noise was there.
the oil/water are fine and are checked weekly and the car starts and drives as normal.
can these chains be adjusted up if a bit loose?
or is it a complete new chain kit thats needed?
is it safe to drive as it is?
I know the noise is coming from inside the engine as the noise increases when i remove the oil filler cap as the car ticks over.
it really sounds like a diesel engine now - thats the best way i can describe it.
HELP!! Read more
has been changed twice a year so not quite sure what point you are trying
to make.
> you dont give all that information in your post
so obviously my Chrystal ball needs a re shine
I picked my mother in law up yesterday and she announced she has put down a deposit on a Feb 09 A3 2.0 TDI S tronic Sportback, from a main dealer.
She is changing from a 99 SLK 230K, as its too small and low for her now.
She drives no more than 10k per year, short local trips, with a few longer motorway trips over the year.
Now obviously I know she doesn?t need a 2.0 Audi diesel for this and that she could buy 2 ceeds/foci/golf(well 1.5 Golfs) etc that will do exactly the same thing as the Audi for the same money.
But to be far, it looks nice on the drive, its her money and she likes it, so I don?t have any issue with the car choice in general, as they do have a nice (perception of) quality about them.
I?m just a bit worried about the long term, self funded ownership proposition of the 2.0TDI (140) and the tronic gearbox (is this the same as the VW DSG?). Given likely use in short local trips, is this asking for trouble and expense? (Dual Mass wossits and Particle Filters etc)
Any knowledge about engine/gearbox this set-up in the A3 ? is there anything to fear or am I being a worry wart?
My gut says try and coach her in to a petrol manual (but again which one for longevity?)
Incidentally the Audit dealer has offered her £3k for the SLK, which seems low to me. Per AT they are offered around £5-7k. Any thoughts?
Thanks
Nick
Read more
All 2.0 TDI PD engines according to him.
Of course, there are millions of these engines out there running happily. It's like every other "common fault" - just because it's common doesn't mean it's necessarily likely to happen to an individual car. Just seems a shame that the 1.9 PD, on which this engine is based, was mechanically bulletproof (as long as you put the right oil in it)
I am in the process of changing cars and have a spare wheel and tyre which have never been used. Kept in the boot, not underslung. The DOT code shows that the tyre was manufactured in 2002 (Pirelli P6000). Is it safe to use this tyre now or should I bin it?
Thanks,
Frederick Read more
Last month, the 8+ year old space-saver came out for the first time after my wife's Focus suffered a puncture. It was fine. [I always keep it well inflated]
As bad luck would have it, a rear tyre had suffered a clean nail puncture, then 3 weeks later, a ragged hole was caused in the same tyre by what I thought was a sharp flint. This second one wrote the tyre off, but when I collected the car, I discovered that the problem had been caused by a bone!
Does anyone have any software that could read the codes from my 03 TDCi fiesta? It's got a plug but the software that I have used with other cars (Toyota and Vauxhall) doesn;t read anything from it.
If you could post on rapidshare or email it to me (cotton69 at gmail.com) that would be excellent! Read more
I would contact Genden.
The passenger door lock does the opposite to the other three doors. So when all doors are locked and I press the button to unlock the doors the passenger door remains locked and the other three doors open.
To open it, I have to lean over and physically open the door.
When I get out of the car and press lock, the three doors lock and the passenger door the button goes down but immediately pops back up. I then have to walk around to the passenger door, open it physically push the button down, then close the door.
Has anyone experienced this and know how to fix it? Read more
As oilburner says it's a common problem on these cars. Before paying out for new locks you can try reseting the UEM first:
- Close all of the doors and bonnet.
- Key in position II engine not running.
- Hold both the driver window and passenger window switches in the driver door panel in the closed or up position for 5 to 8 seconds after the windows are closed.
- Release buttons.
- Remove the ignition key.
- Operated the remote twice. lock/unlock lock/unlock.
This will reset the UEM brain. This can correct faulty operation of the sunroof and/or erratic door lock function.
Thanks to oilburner for the above. It may or may not work but worth a shot before paying out cash.
The front passenger side door lock and the rear drivers side door lock have jammed shut locked. The car is an XTD and has central locking. I manged to get the interior door panel off and have tried to figure out a way to open the door. I am now at the stage of knocking the plastic off the lock mechanism to get in to the lock to unlock the door.
Any ideas on how to unlock the door and get it open so I can replace the lock.
I have been told that the usual problem is a small spring in the lock mechanism.
Unfortunately to get a lock from a scrap yard they will only sell you the whole door £50 or a new lock mechanism from a parts center is £60. Any cheaper ideas would be appreciated!
Thanks
John Read more
got the locks sorted. £55 for the two. They get to me teus morn, then my mot weds. Hopefully no more technicalities!
Can anyone advise, I have the rear discs with the bearing in my 1.6 Hdi 307 and the NS one is making a noise. The pads were replaced about 2 months ago and I only do a few miles. I also had the wheel bearing done. So does that mean the other disc will not need replaced or can you replace the wheel bearing without doing the disc, or do both have to be done? Also have heard scary stories about replacing the pads with new discs, does it really have to be done? The disc looks rusty etc thru the alloy so I'm guessing it needs replacing. Can you just do one disc? I know its not advisable but is it possible? Read more
I think you're confusing the hub and the disc - the bearing and hub can't be separated, and hence you have to replace both if the bearing goes, making it more expensive than just a bearing replacement. No problem with replacing one bearing. You will have to remove the disc in order to replace the hub / bearing, which as bell boy says might destroy the disc. Discs must always replace be replaced in pairs, unless you fancy ending up in the nearest ditch, and as bb says, new pads unless the ones in there are relatively new. Discs £22.75ea and pad set £28.45 (all + HMG's share!) from GSF, so not the end of the world
Hi All,
Looking for suggestions for a replacement car.
Need practicality, good economy and ground clearance for regular farm track access. Only need 2wd.
Must have 5 doors and be able to fit a Golden Retriever in the boot and be no smaller than medium hatch - would consider an estate though.
Unfortunately a Berlingo or Kangoo or Doblo is out of the question on looks! Shame as its a favourite of mine but the car is not for me.
I reckon a diesel Rover Streetwise might do - any ideas anyone?
Ta muchly.
David. Read more
1.3 Ignis is FWD - the 1.5 manual is 4WD via viscous coupling.
i bought a ford fusion 1.4 tdci on friday and all was ok until it refused to start. the aa came pumped the diesel pump and the car roared into life. the aa man advised that there was air in the line and to run the car. did this and all was again ok until when driving on the motorway, the aec fail warning came on and the car gave up.
the aa came out again, couldn't see what was wrong but that there was still air bubbles. the car was towed home but started first time when i got home.
the aec fail light has never cam on again but the car doesn't always start. Sometimes pumping the fuel pump gets it going. the pump is now never hard.
the other thing is that when the car doesn't start i wiggled an electrical connection attached to the fuel lines, maybe the fuel cut off sensor, and the car burst into life.
now every time the car refuses to start, a quick wiggle and it starts again or starts when it feels like it without me touching the wiring. I went to ford and they wanted £134 for the fuel cut-off wiring loom and i have tried to source a used 1 but have had no luck
the electrical connection was removed though and cleaned but the car started without it so not sure what to do and don't want garage trying everything and costing a fortune. Read more
have you had any luck with this problem? I quite fancy buying a diesel Fusion and would appreciate knowing what the remedy is, just in case it happens!
cheers
Browse
Hi Richard,
Thanks for all of the advice. I got the part (£11.01 inc vat, so not bad). Car has now been re-assembled and the clutch is working.
I now have another small problem which I will post in a seperate message.
Thanks again,
Kevin.