January 2010
Hi, The illumination of the heater controls has never worked while Ive owned the car. So the other day I removed the heater panel to access the bulbs , all three had gone. After replacing them I noticed they only work through the ignition, the speedo illumination works when the lights are on. does anyone know if this is normal? thanks. Read more
hi, happy new year to all
i have just bought a mk2 4 door 1300 project
i have been trying to start it with no luck
there is petrol getting through but no spark at plugs
there is 12v at the sw end of the coil when ignition on and 12 v at points end
but there is no spark at the points when turned over, they are new points
there is also no spark at coil king lead
have changed coil onto my mk2 mexico and it runs the mex no problem
put the coil from mex onto project still no spark
not sure if condenser could be at fault, cant test as mine is different
the project is a black cap dizzy
any ideas would be appreciated Read more
Did u sort this mate as I currently have a similar prob and it's driving me mad. I have even bought an electronic ignition dizzy and it's still not sparking.
More in car saga today (AAAAARGH!) At recent service, told that gearbox transmission fluid was due to be changed as per VW srvice schedule, so took my mk 4 Golf (auto, petrol, 38k miles) in to have it done at VW main garage. After this, gearbox now judders alarmingly, as if nearly stalling, when pulling away from stationery, particularly if on slight upward slope, but also on the flat. Garage will be picking up car in the week to take it back and check it, but also told me that nowadays gearboxes will adjust to your driving style and it maybe needs to adjust in this way - sounds totally bonkers to me - anybody familar with this or have any idea what the problem is?
BTW, until transmission fluid replaced today, never had any problem whatsoever with gearbox - previously drive was v.smooth.
I say "saga" as this latest problem coincides with a plethora of warning lights and recorded warning messages coming on in cold weather this winter (now off on their own accord!), juddering when braking after brake fluid topped up at service and one VW garage managing to crack the windscreen when it was in for service! AAAAAAARGH!
Why don't VW 1. at least read these pages and 2. reply "We will take responsibility and sort things out for you"?????? Read more
Did they drain the torque converter & oil cooler?
38k is low for the box but still not a problem to change it but deffo use correct grade.
hi i have fault code - p0230 showing
cleared code and can some times drive for about 1/2 a mile then when you lift off the throttle it will bring the engine light on then garenteed within 10 seckonds the engine will cut regardless of rpm
if clear the code will idle ok for anything upto 5min but if you turn key off befor it faults and cuts out , then it will run on for a second and the p0230 code will be back
i have had (all seconhand)
3 in tank pumps
2 double relay/ fuel relay
2 high pressure pumps
2 fuel regulators (bolt to rear of high pressure pump)
2 sets of injectors
2 cam sensors
including orignals
have also checked various wires plugs earths fuses / feeds, have checked fuel return system and all ok
im still leaning towards the fuel reg and controling common rail pressure sensor ??
am intending on draining the fuel from tank as dont know where it was brought from though it is white, and another fuel filter then will report back
any ideas very apricated
thanks Read more
im having this problem and spent loads did you get this sorted i so hope you reply. many thanks.
Hello, looking for a bit of info ref a Jaguar X-Type estate with a knocking sound at the rear.
After a service 12 months back my local mechanic mentioned the noise on the rear suspension stating it was the anti roll bar bushes (I must have been used to the noise) it turns out that these have be updated i.e a known problem.
I bought and fit a pair and the noise was very much reduced but a few months late a very high pitch squeak started at the rear suspension. With a lot of messing around I found it was coming from what I now know of as the rear control arm, this was replaced and noise sorted, 6 months on the near side rear control arm started making the same noise but I ignored it (too cold for working on a car) the squeak stopped after a while (would only usually squeak in very cold weather) now on the rear nearside there is and probably has been for ages a much more noticeable knock when going over bumps compared to the of side with new control arm.
The long and short of it is does anyone know if this is a common problem don't want to spend another £57.00 for the knock to be still there when it may be something more obvious and would cost less to repair.
Apologies for the long winded description, appreciate any info.
Chris
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I thought thieves were so thick that they still thought Skodas were sheds....but someone stole mine in the early hours of Thursday morning.
Someone broke into our house, defeating the Anglian double lock (no sign of forced entry), and found SWMBO's handbag with her set of keys (no sermonising please - I know she should have taken it upstairs). Used the keys to take the Octavia sitting on the drive. Fortunately they didn't get into the locked garage with the Mini and the Z3 in it - but they have a set of keys so we'll have to change the locks, as we already have on the front door.
Anyone else heard of a Skoda being nicked? My insurance broker thinks that as it's a vRS it may have been targeted. If so, it just shows what a long way Skodas have come.
Everyone has been very helpful, including Thames Valley Police (although I'm sure they won't find anything), other cars' insurers about changing locks - all except the insurers of the Skoda who shall be nameless - trying to wriggle out as they don't understand how the burglars got in. Nor do I - what's that got to do with the car policy? The car and front door were locked - that should be enough for them.
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I guess with the number of common (and expensive) components shared with other VAG cars makes this a desirable car to steal and break.
As for the locks discussion, a friend of mine is a locksmith - he taught me how to pick most locks in about 30 minutes (duration of training) - I was opening most locks in under a minute - padlocks in seconds, it's easy, if an insurer insists there's no sign of break in therefore you were not burgled then they are in la-la land. Lock picking is easy to master with freely available tools to do the job. I've got ungraded barrels in my uPVC doors - I can still defeat them without a key in minutes. I have drilled into the metal frame of the door and fitted good old fashioned internal (lockable) throw bolts - this will be enough to defeat a chancer who can bump the main lock - although a half decent burglar will defeat any security.
I have a W reg (2000) 306 HDI Estate, which was originally an import. The front fogs are circular and seated in a circular moulding within the black plastic grill beneath the bumper. Both bulbs have gone and I could do with the extra illumination at this time of year, I have had a look, but can't see an obvious way to change the bulbs without some serious disassembly - could someone point me in the right direction please? Read more
Access to the bulbs is from behind the lamps.You will need to raise the front of the car to release the the front part of the plastic engine cover/undertray at each corner.This will allow you to reach the lamps and bulbholders.Bit of a struggle ,but not as difiicult as it seems.hth
The Jazz recall thread prompted me to look at CarByCarBreakdown and I noted there's a comment:
"Seem to deteriorate quite badly after 6 or 7 years."
I'd be interested to know what that's based on? We just changed our 6yr old Jazz for a new one, but I did wonder if I'd done the right thing as the old one felt as though it would last for ever. The new one doesn't feel anything like as robust.
I was slightly concerned that the gearbox was getting noisy, but within a couple of weeks of changing the car I saw a comment that Honda will now repair the box on any age Jazz, so I felt quite miffed about that!
It's based on more feedback from readers than anyone else in the UK gets or bothers to process. Not in prejudice. On feedback. The same feedback that comments about the myth of VW reliability is based on. 100+ e-mails a day, every day. More than 500,000 letters and e-mails altogether. HJ Read more
i got a 2003 honda jazz 1.4 se, and havent any problems with it mechanical or electrical, but i just traded it for a 07 jazz, as for wear and tear, the issue i had was that the seat trim stitching was wearing out causing the seat to split, the dealer wouldnt have repaired the seat trim but replace it all but i didnt have the courage to ask for how much it be as the car was out of warranty and its 6 years old i decided to part exchange it for the jazz 07.
i was tempted to buy the new jazz mk2 as billpayer recent article on the quality of the interior and also the variable servicing interval put me of, the ivtec engine of the jazz mk2 has a different character to the idsi engine, having driven both of them, the 1.2 ivtec and my current 1.4 idsi both have similar power however the idsi engine is more relaxing to drive the engine is more forgiving if you are in the wrong gear, the insurance group is lower in the mk1 jazz than the mk2, the mk1 got a spare tyre, and i dont like the new style luggage rack.
i wouldnt buy a model that is just out but wait and see how it is until its over 2 years and see how it shapes up as owner review it
For example if you search for a VW Bora some onanist set the search price at £999 and then says in the text the real price is £1,350.
This seems to be getting more and more prevalent these days and I find it SO ANNOYING.
Surely it must be against Autotrader terms and conditions? Read more
More supplements than rivals though aren't they?
If someone's willing to put the wrong price up just to save £10 then how have they treated the car? I understand these are 'tough economic times' as we keep saying but they really do shoot themselves in the foot. For starters if I'm looking for a £4,000 Skoda then I'll be looking at cars in that price range, not in the sub-1k category....
Inspired by the reaction to the roundabout thread, I just wondered what other "short cuts" anyone takes to save time on the roads, and whether people think it's acceptable.
I will confess to one more, which I do regularly on the M25 Heathrow stretch in rush hour.
As people who have driven this (hateful) stretch of road will know, lane 1 is exclusively an exit lane for junctions 14 and 13, and that the road is invariably a car park during rush hour. However, lane 1 tends to clear around a mile before each junction, with just the exiting traffic using it. Lanes 2-5 are completely stationary.
I negotiate both J14 and J13 by using lane 1, leaving the motorway, heading straight over the roundabout, and rejoining at the other side of the junction. Apart from a small queue to rejoin, this cuts out a considerable amount of stationary traffic, and allows me to keep moving.
Technically it's queue jumping, even though I am following the lanes, (and using the roundabout of the junction) correctly.
Any thoughts/comments? Anyone else do this, or anything similar?
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Lud you're a funny man!
Flamin' Catholics, stealing our rat runs....
Browse
Thanks victorbox and elekie, As fitting goes rotate the two centre vents down then lever them out from the side. Behind the vents are two retaining screws. then pull off the recirc knob, flick out the small panel behind the knob, this will expose the two lower securing screws. Now the heater panel can be pulled forward ,pull it slightly until you can access the cables for the heater controls, there are four of these, they unclip using your fingers. [note the cable ends are colored black ,brown ,yellow ,grey make a note of which goes where.] finally unplug the multiplug behind the HRW switch, now remove the whole panel. Flip the panel over, the illumination bulbs are held in a black plastic holder about three inches long. it holds three bulbs, This just unclips .The bulbs are the tiny capless type 1.2w about 80p each from vauxhall and simply pull out and push into the holder. The jobs straight forward ,refitting the cables can be fidly, it shouldnt take more than half an hour. Hope this helps.