January 2010
Hi
Just taken ownership of an X reg (2000) second generation 2.0 automatic 5-door Toyota RAV4 and I'm concerned about poor mpg, getting in the region of 18mpg. I think the official combined figure for this model is around 30mpg. Example, put in approx 4 gallons (£20) of petrol three days ago when the fuel warning light was on and the fuel warning light is on again after about 70 miles.
Most driving is short trips between towns approx 10 miles per day Monday-Friday, or town/A roads/motorways approx 25 miles at weekends, so nothing too excessive, no foot to the floor with the throttle and overdrive always on.
The engine management light has always been on since I took ownership, previous owner said that it has been on for years and at the last service the mechanic said that it related to a small problem with a heating fan running but don't know if that would warrant the engine management light being on?
Anyway, really dissapointed with the mpg so wondering how much Toyota will fleece me to run diagnistics to determine if there is a problem that would affect fuel consumption?
or if anyone has had experience of similar low mpg or can offer advice on what might be causing the poor fuel consumption I'd be interested to hear your thoughts/suggestions.
Thanks in advance. Read more
Folks,
I have a long-running intermittant ABS problem that the codes advise is this sensor, which sits in the centre console bheind the handbrake, and consists, so I undertstand, of 4 mercury switches which, along with some other electronics, detect sudden decelleration.
Breakers don't seem to have them, Isuzu parts say that, at best, they are on a three month back order from Japan, and the thing does not appear fixable.
Obviously, this takes the ABS off-line when it fails (which is during the driving off self-test, 100m or so from setting off)
There are odd mentions of these failing on other imports (yes, I have Googled). Does any listmember have a suggestion as to what I can do?
Driving backwards rapidly, then braking sharply seems to clear the fault, which points to something inside the switch, rather than the cabling, as does the fact that the ABS fail light will come typically when the vehicle has moved off the horizontal, sometimes even slightly.
This component is a NIPPON ABS part, I have a photo, and wondered if anyone can suggest anything, as I'm running out of options and the MOT is in a weeks time...
Cheers
rg Read more
Thanks, both!
WorkshopTech, I suspect that the ABS simply controls the brakes in my case, with no link to an engine ECU. My machine is not "fly by wire", but has a good old mechanical link to the fuel pump,and no significantly large ECU that I've identified in the ten years of ownership and home mechanicing. Basically, the design dates from the late-eighties at least, being a redesign of the earlier Trooper. It's refreshingly basic in most aspects.
CraigP, thanks for the suggestions. I've had positive responses from some breakers on eBay last night, so may have found one.
I can't recommend ITOC highly enough for technical advice on Troopers. Plenty of knowledgeable chaps with dirty fingernails. Likewise, Milners are very helpful, and parts remarkably reasonable.
Thanks again!
rg
Hi all, I'm ltrying to find out where I stand with my car insurance if I buy via a particular company they retain the V5 for the first six months, so I'll not be the "Registered keeper"in this arrangement, as I want to transfer the vehicle on to my own policy when it arrives, however when I called my insurance company (Co-Op), the adviser was lost when I tried to explain this "Fleet owner" setup to him, does anyone have any advice on this and if it worked out ?.
The other thing that crossed my mind was, what if the leasing company go bust, how would I ever get my V5 ?, and could the car be repossesed ?.
Thanks in advance
anonymized - PU Read more
A V5 isn't proof of ownership anyway is it? It just identifies the registered keeper. >>
Yes, as has been said already.
Proof of ownership is usually via documents such as invoices, receipts, proof of payment by owner, contract proving exchange/delivery of goods etc..
However, most if not all online insurance companies require that the car you insure is owned/registered as per, for example, the Churchill t&c quoted above.
Just bought 2nd hand 207,1.4 diesel first registered May 2007. The heater does not work, only cold air. When re-circulation unit is on there is a slight heat. Have removed pollen filters to see if that made a differnece, but no luck. Any idea what it might be and how to resolve? Thanks Read more
Thanks Falkirk Bairn for the reply but surely if the thermostat (2) was stuck open
the engine would overheat?
Other way around. If the stat was stuck in the open position, the car would not get up to full operating termperature....
Hey ive just joined the forum as it seems to be full of knowledgeable people, ive recently bought a 2005 1.3. combo with 62k on the clock. not to impressed so far like.the stereo just died, EML is ! and now the sliding side door is stuck. the lock tab doesnt move when i use the key manually or remote fob. have no idea how to get the inner panel off with the door closed to have a look. any advice would be greatly appreciated guys.
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Don't let him near a breaker's yard. You know what their cranes will do to him. ;-)
www.honestjohn.co.uk/news/item.htm?id=35927
please read this and i would like opinions
heres my hat nailed on the hook............hj has now twice said once in yesterdays DT and in the link that 30% of drivers cant afford insurance,i totally disagree i think you will find they dont want to pay ,it might be expensive it might be something you never need but its the law of the land that at least third party insurance has to be in place in this country unless you can afford to self insure.
Why should insurers lower their ratings for young male drivers when its their own driving skills or lack of them that we see daily on our congested roads and up lamposts,its a govt issue that needs remedying not an insurance lowering that we need
i well remember my insurance was far more than i could afford when i started on the road but i insured and managed to keep my licence clean Read more
When my son was looking for his first car many years ago, I pointed out a deal that was available at the time for a new car with free insurance for young drivers. I cannot remember exactly what car it was but it was a smallish engined supermini. It was not much more than he was proposing to pay for a used car. But no, he bought a Rover 216 coupe with all the normal extras, large alloys, big bore exhaust, a bit of engine modding, racing seats, small steering wheel, 500 watt sound system etc etc. Insurance was £3000+ pa and it was a money leeching wreck. The cost of the car including insurance and repairs was way over what the new car would have cost.
However, he would not be seen dead in the "sensible" car although he came close to it in the Rover on a couple of occasions. I was looking at it from a practical veiwpoint which didn't go down well. Oh well, you can but try....
We have a fiesta which occassionally drops out of 2nd Gear on the overun in low speed driving. This has been happening now for 18 months and with the annual Ford service imminent, I am wondering whether to ask the dealer to adjust the gear change, with 35000 genuine miles i would be surprised if there is much wear in the gearbox.
What advice can anyone give me?
Andrew Read more
Thanks very much for the response Mickeybo. Much appreciated.
Recently my focus has picked up a tapping noise from the top of the engine when running, any ideas of what could be the cause of this?
Thanks in advance Read more
My money would still be on an injector, as the tappets hardly ever get seriously noisy on these engines even at the stated mileage. The low mpg is quite easily caused by this also .
Hello there. Recently the ABS light came on my dash, I had it diagnosed and the problem was with one of the rear sensors which had become damaged, I replaced the sensor but the ABS warning light has stayed on.
I have already tried disconnecting the battery overnight, to no avail.
Does anyone know if this faut should clear itself after I drive a few miles?
Or do I have to actually delete the fault code? and if so, is there anyway I can do this myself without taking it to a garage?
Read more
Right, PROBLEM SOLVED!! Took it to the garage, they cleared the code, warning lights went off, went for a drive, lights came back on, turns out that it was not only the sensor but the reluctor ring as well that was damaged...Thanks to you all for your input, even if some of it did seem a little patronising!
Browse
Yes I hadn't considered that, 18mpg isn't that bad considering the fact its a 2l auto....Still, a bit of a service should bring that up a bit.