January 2010
My 57,000 mile 2004 Sport Tdi 130 has started to make bearing failure noises at idle. It manifests itself as a rumbling noise. I first noticed it about a month / 1,500 miles ago (normally do about 10,000 pa but just back from long trip) and now my wife has commented, so I guess its getting worse. With an engine stethascope it is not clear whether the noise is coming from the drive belt idler pulley (the plastic one) or the viscous fan one. Neither feels loose when levered with a bar. Local garage advice (I live in South West France) is to leave the noise insulation cover off the engine and closely monitor both components until one is clearly the culprit.
The cambelt and kit of parts were replaced last year, but the garage didn't replace anything to do with the aux drive belt (no reason to I guess and I didn't ask them to).
So, what experience does anyone have with either of these items? Obviously replacement is expensive as the front has to come off the car (again!!). Unless I can clearly identify which is failing, my inclination is to replace both whilst the front is off. Any comments? (I can no longer do jobs like this myself due to arthritis).
Thanks in advance for any help. Read more
Hi, hoping someone can help me, I have a 1965 Triumph Herald 12/50 saloon positive earth I am currently restoring.
I have temporary wired the ignition system just to start the engine, it turns over but does not fire, on checking the spark at the plug it only sparks when the ignition is turned on and not when the engine is turned, I have followed the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual but to no avail. needing help/ideas please. Read more
Assuming fuel delivery is ok and ignition timing is set correctly.
Ignition low tension circuit basics:
Ignition on, test lamp on live side of coil - lamp lit = feed ok
Turn engine over - lamp still lit = cranking feed ok
Move test lamp to distributor side of coil and crank engine - test lamp should flash off and on as points open and close = distributor working
If above is ok, suspect secondary windings in coil (i.e. duff coil) or ignition high tension circuit i.e. distributor cap, rotor arm, leads, plugs, plug caps etc.
As the old Mondeo estate becomes very long in the tooth, I'm looking for a slightly smaller replacement in the next few months; I was thinking chiefly along the lines of a Focus or Octavia. I need it to tide me over for about the next 5 years until Mrs W and I are both fully retired and go to one car - at which point, we'll get something smart that'll see us out.
A friend is due to retire shortly and has been offered his company Astra Club estate with the 1.3 diesel engine. He won't be buying it as he has the use of his son's car - and ultimately, he will want something a bit more powerful. He reckons it's a bit slow to take off but, once it's bowling along, it's fine. It's a 56 reg and I think it's about £5.5k - which I think is about trade price. He has asked me if I'd be interested in buying it.
I just wonder if any of you chaps have had any experience of the 1.3 diesel Astra - has anyone experienced the self-destruct engine extravaganza as described on C by C breakdown? I should add that I am not the sort of chap who flies around like a loon and so I'm not looking for Ferrari performance - anyway, I don't think Ferrari do an estate.
Cheers Waino
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The answer is no and is the reason the Road Fund is £120 and not £35>>
Thanks for your comment, dervdave. I had been following this question up and had seen your enquiry on What Diesel. You're quite famous ;-)
I think what had thrown me was HJ's comment on the C by C about dpf equipped 1.3s self-destructing. But, following the logic through, this could only possibly occur in Twin-top Astras as they are (afaik?) the only Astra variant fitted with dpfs. I was also thrown by references in the handbook to the dpf warning light.
As I said, I'm pretty sure I'll be buying the car to replace the faithful old Mondeo, so I'll no-doubt have more questions as I'm totally unfamiliar with diesels.
I have an 09 KA basic model, had it for 6 months, every month i have a problem where, mid wipe, my wiper blade just gets caught and snaps in half, leaving me doing 70mph on the m25, driving behind a lorry with salt spray and no wiper!!!!
The wiper has snapped 4 times in this way (different senario) and all the stupid ford garage keep doing is replacing the wipers every month!!! Does anyone else have this problem?
To top it off, after my last visit for a wiper replacement, i come home to clean the interior of my car to find ive flooded my mums hoover by sucking up water from the rear passenger foot well. If not already fuming about my 4th visit for a wiper blade, im outraged at this point.
On the phone again, being passed to piller and post, stupid unhelpful ford service ppl tell me to bring my car in and say they have no courtesy cars to give me. Then my jack russel of a mum stepped in and did the shouty bit.
Was finially told that its something to do with the bulkhead and the entire dash board has been stripped!? Whats a bulkhead? and whats wrong with it to make it leak? Read more
hi have you sorted leak out yet in most cases wouldnt have to remove dash i found leaks by bonnet hinges sealing this up nomally works
Hi
Just taken ownership of an X reg (2000) second generation 2.0 automatic 5-door Toyota RAV4 and I'm concerned about poor mpg, getting in the region of 18mpg. I think the official combined figure for this model is around 30mpg. Example, put in approx 4 gallons (£20) of petrol three days ago when the fuel warning light was on and the fuel warning light is on again after about 70 miles.
Most driving is short trips between towns approx 10 miles per day Monday-Friday, or town/A roads/motorways approx 25 miles at weekends, so nothing too excessive, no foot to the floor with the throttle and overdrive always on.
The engine management light has always been on since I took ownership, previous owner said that it has been on for years and at the last service the mechanic said that it related to a small problem with a heating fan running but don't know if that would warrant the engine management light being on?
Anyway, really dissapointed with the mpg so wondering how much Toyota will fleece me to run diagnistics to determine if there is a problem that would affect fuel consumption?
or if anyone has had experience of similar low mpg or can offer advice on what might be causing the poor fuel consumption I'd be interested to hear your thoughts/suggestions.
Thanks in advance. Read more
Yes I hadn't considered that, 18mpg isn't that bad considering the fact its a 2l auto....Still, a bit of a service should bring that up a bit.
Folks,
I have a long-running intermittant ABS problem that the codes advise is this sensor, which sits in the centre console bheind the handbrake, and consists, so I undertstand, of 4 mercury switches which, along with some other electronics, detect sudden decelleration.
Breakers don't seem to have them, Isuzu parts say that, at best, they are on a three month back order from Japan, and the thing does not appear fixable.
Obviously, this takes the ABS off-line when it fails (which is during the driving off self-test, 100m or so from setting off)
There are odd mentions of these failing on other imports (yes, I have Googled). Does any listmember have a suggestion as to what I can do?
Driving backwards rapidly, then braking sharply seems to clear the fault, which points to something inside the switch, rather than the cabling, as does the fact that the ABS fail light will come typically when the vehicle has moved off the horizontal, sometimes even slightly.
This component is a NIPPON ABS part, I have a photo, and wondered if anyone can suggest anything, as I'm running out of options and the MOT is in a weeks time...
Cheers
rg Read more
Thanks, both!
WorkshopTech, I suspect that the ABS simply controls the brakes in my case, with no link to an engine ECU. My machine is not "fly by wire", but has a good old mechanical link to the fuel pump,and no significantly large ECU that I've identified in the ten years of ownership and home mechanicing. Basically, the design dates from the late-eighties at least, being a redesign of the earlier Trooper. It's refreshingly basic in most aspects.
CraigP, thanks for the suggestions. I've had positive responses from some breakers on eBay last night, so may have found one.
I can't recommend ITOC highly enough for technical advice on Troopers. Plenty of knowledgeable chaps with dirty fingernails. Likewise, Milners are very helpful, and parts remarkably reasonable.
Thanks again!
rg
Hi all, I'm ltrying to find out where I stand with my car insurance if I buy via a particular company they retain the V5 for the first six months, so I'll not be the "Registered keeper"in this arrangement, as I want to transfer the vehicle on to my own policy when it arrives, however when I called my insurance company (Co-Op), the adviser was lost when I tried to explain this "Fleet owner" setup to him, does anyone have any advice on this and if it worked out ?.
The other thing that crossed my mind was, what if the leasing company go bust, how would I ever get my V5 ?, and could the car be repossesed ?.
Thanks in advance
anonymized - PU Read more
A V5 isn't proof of ownership anyway is it? It just identifies the registered keeper. >>
Yes, as has been said already.
Proof of ownership is usually via documents such as invoices, receipts, proof of payment by owner, contract proving exchange/delivery of goods etc..
However, most if not all online insurance companies require that the car you insure is owned/registered as per, for example, the Churchill t&c quoted above.
Just bought 2nd hand 207,1.4 diesel first registered May 2007. The heater does not work, only cold air. When re-circulation unit is on there is a slight heat. Have removed pollen filters to see if that made a differnece, but no luck. Any idea what it might be and how to resolve? Thanks Read more
Thanks Falkirk Bairn for the reply but surely if the thermostat (2) was stuck open
the engine would overheat?
Other way around. If the stat was stuck in the open position, the car would not get up to full operating termperature....
Hey ive just joined the forum as it seems to be full of knowledgeable people, ive recently bought a 2005 1.3. combo with 62k on the clock. not to impressed so far like.the stereo just died, EML is ! and now the sliding side door is stuck. the lock tab doesnt move when i use the key manually or remote fob. have no idea how to get the inner panel off with the door closed to have a look. any advice would be greatly appreciated guys.
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Don't let him near a breaker's yard. You know what their cranes will do to him. ;-)
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Thanks Peter