January 2010
Just considering any possibilities regarding improving the security on my MK5 Golf & came across window security film, much like tint film but clear & slightly thicker..
Has anyone had this fitted or have any experience of it?
Simon Read more
Thinking about taking a company car. Only really looking for cars with low BIK. So far have thought about diesel Minis and weedy versions of TDI Audi A3s.
What else is there thats not too mundane.
It would effectively be the 2nd car so size etc not critical Read more
The Audi A4 for example in 136PS 20 TDIe trim also has BIK of 13%.
Hi, I took the battery out of the car over this last snowy period (on the advice of my father in law) as I would not be using it. I tried starting it the other day & it wouldn't turn over. the lights are bright so battery fine i think. Would disconnecting the battery mess up the NATS/Immobiliser? The key is not a remote locking type but has a little blue bit on its side, probably for the battery? Any help much appreciated. Read more
Thanks will double check all connections & re-recharge battery
I've just bought a tyre pressure gauge (went for one of the Michelin digital ones, bit pricey, but seems good) and took readings on my Mondeo (09 reg, 2.0 Diesel, Hatchback, tyres are 215/55).
According to the decal on the car the figures (for 1-3 passengers, don't know why there isn't and unladen figures) are 35 psi for the front tyres and 32 psi for the rear tyres.
The readings that I got (unladen) were
Front left - 27.6
Front right - 27.9
Rear left - 28.4
Rear right - 28.4
So obviously they are a bit low (have not checked them since I bought it in September, but have only just done over 1,000 miles in that time), and I will pump them up to the recommended figures and then keep a regular eye on them. However, it just made me wonder whether the pressures that I currently have are low enough to have a particularly adverse impact on performance or safety.
Any thoughts appreciated. Read more
According to the decal on the car the figures (for 1-3 passengers don't know why
there isn't and unladen figures) are 35 psi for the front tyres and 32 psi
for the rear tyres.
Tyre pressures are always set unladen. The pressure doesn't go up when you get in the car.
The readings that I got (unladen) were
Front left - 27.6
Front right - 27.9
Rear left - 28.4
Rear right - 28.4
That's sheer neglectful.
So obviously they are a bit low (have not checked them since I bought it in September ...
Pressures should be checked weekly.
However, it just made me wonder whether the pressures that I currently have are low enough to have a particularly adverse impact on performance or safety.
Yes, and probably rate and pattern of wear as well.
Hello all, hopefully you might be able to help me
I have a 52 plate (registered as 03 on the documentation)1.6 Zetec Focus that had a couple of problems that may or may not be linked.
The first problem I have is the idle is about 1200rpm, rather than the specified 700 rpm. I?ve had it looked at by a garage that said they found the problem rectified it, for a while, then it
Went back to staying at around 1200 rpm again. Would it be fair to assume that the idle valve may need replacing? I have taken it off and given it a clean, to no affect.
The other problem I have is that if I am driving with the engine running below 2000 revs per minute, and I take my foot off of the throttle and press down on the clutch, the revs go up to 2000 rpm and stay there until the car is at walking pace. Then the revs will drop down to idle of 1200rpm. This will happen at any speed provided the engine is below 2000 rpm. It?s a bit annoying when in first and I?m creeping along in traffic as the revs pick up, the car starts to accelerate under it?s own power, the revs then increase as the speed increases and so on. It?s not doing my fuel or brakes any good.
If I am running the engine about 2000 rpm and drop the clutch and take off the throttle, the revs will drop down to, and stay at 2000 rpm.
Whether the engine is hot or cold, it still does the above.
Engine braking does not seem to be effective either with this fault. It?s clearly a sensor problem, does anyone know what it could be? TPS perhaps?
I have heard of 'resonance' as well. Could this be a possibility as well?
Many thanks for your time
Kye
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Still sounds like idle control valve to me.I imagine the garage cleaned it. I,ve never been able to clean one to a satisfactory standard. At this age I,d be expecting it go sooner or later. I think of these as a service item along with leads /water pump. I,m quite happy to chuck such items in the bin rather than wait for a problem. After the idle valve the next item to be on borrowed time would probably be the throttle potentiometer. These items are cheap to buy and easy to change.
After using two cars to get the family and friends to the same destination twice this weekend, I decided I should have a seven seater car. Something with the same power and driveability as my Outback and all the same toys, but a bit newer and slightly larger.
I have never sat in a Tribeca but know that it is the same mechanically as my Outback. Reports are that it is remarkably uneconomical, not quite as spacious as it ought to be, but it is also a large car for the money with a pretty good range of goodies.
As an example, I can buy an April 2007 model with just 16,000 miles for just under £16,000.
However I got thinking about alternatives. Without spending fortunes on BMW X5s or Audi Q7s, I had a quick look on Autotrader and came up with some very well specified Ford S-Maxs with the Volvo T5 engine. The only downside is a manual gearbox, but the upside is more space than a Tribeca, economy no worse than my Outback, presumably great performance and some are dripping in features. Not quite the same bargain as a Tribeca but not too far short.
I suspect the S-Max will be the better drive of the two and 4WD is not vital.
Which one would you go for and why?
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Imaginary story!
The ford S-Max Titanium has an electric drivers seat height adjustment.... so your story it's crap from the beginning... I own a S-Max 2.5T Titanium for 2 and a half years now with 70k miles ... and the issues that i had are only related to maintenance, and maybe the buttons that you are talking about are present on the standard version that can't be bought along with the 2.5t engine.... so please talk only if you know what you are talking about.... if not ... go get something else to do...
Hi All,
My battery recently went flat on my Peugeot 306. It is a relatively new battery so I took it out and charged it. I have put it back in but now when I try to start the car the engine won't turn over. I've tried disconnection and reconnecting the alarm system (under the rear seat behind the driver) but this made no difference.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks Read more
Does your car have an alarm reset/disable button near the steering wheel? It's slightly low down on the right-hand side of the box the steering wheel is mounted on, the printing on it looks a little like:
o)))
If so, give this a try:
Make sure you're outside of the car,
- Lock the car using the key
- Unlock the car using the key
- Enter the car and close the door
- Hold down the button for five seconds (do not release)
- Continuing to hold down the button, turn the key to ignition.
If all goes well, the indicator lights should flash on and off several times - which means the alarm/immobiliser was previously engaged and has now been reset (until you take the battery out again), which should give you the ability to crank the starter again. Make sure that after you've unlocked the car you begin the rest of the steps as soon as possible, there's a time-out of about 30 seconds (or so) for which to do it in.
Anyone used these guys? I know normally that we should all avoid fast fit type places but the Mrs car is due a service (fed up with it bleeping everytime I get in....) but am pretty skint. Has been main dealer serviced to date but is now at 60K and 4 half years old, so not much point following that through now.
These guys look a bit different as they dont sell tyres / exhausts etc - they just do servicing. They also do a nice little package where you get 2 services, aircon recharged, and 6 vallets plus MOT in a year for 290 quid.
Before anyone else suggests it I only have one local independant and he wants almost the same as main dealer to do a service plus he dosent give out nice coffee and clean all the kids crap out of the car
Friend has used them and is very happy, but would welcome anyone elses experiences - good or bad Read more
Well, sorry to dig up an old thread but I have just discovered that my VW dealer has a nice little offer on. 100 point service for 89.99 which sounds pretty good, but in addition they chuck in a years RAC cover valued at 136 quid.
Sounds like a safer option and cheaper to. Not sure if this is on at all VW dealers or just some.
Lately I have had a couple of problems with my C3. Just after Christmas the battery warning light came on, so I had a new battery fitted. However, about a week later the warning light came back on, so I returned to the garage and they replaced the battery again.
They ran a check on the first replacement battery and told me that it checked out fine and that the alternator was OK too.
On Saturday the warning light returned, so I went back to the garage again and was told that the only thing left was a diagnostic check (which they were unequipped to do).
The strangest thing about this though is that my central locking is not working properly - it only locks the driver's side doors. Is that related to the battery light problem, or just a bizarre coincidence?
I have booked my car in to a local garage who said they would have a look at it, but I have a sneaking suspicion that it might be a main dealer job.
Any insight into what might be causing these problems would be greatly appreciated. Read more
I dont have the answer to your question but as it happens i purchased a 53 plate C3 Tdi LS and my issue may relate.
On a few occasions once i have unlocked the car the battery charge light starts flashing (before key is in the ignition) although it generally starts first time (but does sometimes struggle). Once the car has been running for half hour or more the light issue dissapears for a few days. I believe its a relatively new battery aswell.
The reason ive put this as a reply though is because my central locking is also affected. It has a problem unlocking remotely using the key-button on several occasions (especially when the car is cold), and if you unlock using the key-in-door it only unlocks the drivers door and does not operate the central locking (unlocking all doors and boot). Ive had the battery replaced in the key with no result.
Does this sound like the problem you were/are having? Did you find an answer? Did replacing the main battery affect the service/mileage clock as ive heard this can be an issue aswell.
Thanks in advance.
This has happened a few times since new. Now done about 4000 miles.
I think it generally happens after wet conditions.
The last "stick" happened after an overnight park and a visit to the car wash !
Drums release after a hefty pull to get the car moving, and then seem OK.
Anyone else with this problem ?
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I have been experiencing the exact same problems. For the whirring noise, they have apparently replaced two different parts, as I have taken it to the dealer on different occasions and yet it still makes a random whirring noise.
The handbrake on mine keeps sticking and making a clunk noise. It doesn't happen all the time but does quite a lot. It doesn't seem to matter what the weather is it happens in dry weather too! Has anyone got this fixed on theirs? As when I took it to the dealer over this problem they just said it was the frozen weather and that brakes were "dirty". I am taking it again but find it hard to believe that the brakes have got dirty twice in one year when other people I know with cars never experience this problem!
Browse
security films do offer better physical protection but they aren't energy efficient at all
I suggest you get tinted films but thicker ones - Solar Safe Films sell 6mil. If you're worried about someone trying to steal something from your car, good tinted windows should hold up quite well against the smacks of a baseball bat. You get both the physical protection as well as save up on fuel costs. ...