January 2010
hi there.....i have an mondeo 2.0 tdci 115 bhp 54 reg....
...and my problem is the turbocharger with electronic actuator....the ELECTRONIC ACTUATOR IS FAULTY!!....
....can i change just the electronic actuator on my turbo...it will work???....
....do you know where i can find an electronic actuator(black box)..???
any help welcome!!!
Thanks
Claudio Read more
Hi, as the title suggests I have a MkV Golf 1.4 FSi and the exhaust system warning light is lit (not flashing). I am under the impression that this could mean a lambda probe problem, however the engine is running quite rough at idle. Could anybody shed any light onto what could potentially be wrong? Currently not driving it untill I have the time to take it to mechanics,
Thanks Read more
Hi, we are fuel injection specialist based in the North West of England called Enginostics. I have just read the problem you are having. I would recommend someone to access the trouble codes and to read live data to determine the fault. This would be the first step.
I would also look for air / vacuum leaks. ...
I got a Garmin as a Birthday present 2.5 yrs ago. Used it say 12 times - it sits in glove box to help in an emergency!
Maps out of date but upgrades were £60!! Few private users would probably pay £60 when newer models are only marginally dearer.
Latest mailing from Garmin offering lifetime upgrades for £106!!
Don't these people understand! To sell upgrades, say for 1 month, @ £10-£20 they could be overrun but punters
At £106 I will sadly decline.
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Having spent 2 hours downloading updated maps for my Garmin Nuvi 1490T (and been told by the updater that the download would have maps for all of Europe) I tried to search for a postcode in Scotland. The response was 'no matches found'. The result was the same for the first 4 digits of the postcode and for 'Edinburgh'. Can anyone suggest a solution? I have emailed Garmin but no reply as yet.
Many thanks...
Hi, looking for some advice. I have a 2004 1.4TDCi that won't always start when cold or parked for a few hours. I put the key in and turn it to the first part, glow plug light is not always coming on (not sure if cold enough) but when I go to start the engine it will turn over for about two seconds and then stop turning. I can switch the ignition off and back on and then it will turn over for a couple of seconds again and still not start. I am keeping the key in the starting position all the time. Eventually after a few attempts the engine will turn over for longer and start. Once warm there are no further problems and I can stop and start it as much as I want !!
It has done 58000 miles but not sure of the history.
Any suggestions? Read more
What is the best way to test the glow plugs?
In the early stages of planning replacing the S60 with a Focus mk1.
It's a bit more complex than that. Basically, I'm doing loads of miles, SWMBO is doing hardly anything since giving up work last year. I've been using the Golf more and enjoying the 50+mpg very much, but SWMBO thinks the S60 is the spawn of the devil (too big, too cumbersome) and can't stand driving it. So, the logical step is for me to take the Golf on, to flog the Volvo, and get SWMBO another Golf-sized car. The one car we both agree on (apart from another Golf) is a Focus mk1.
We'll go petrol because the mileage won't justify diesel, but I'm not sure which engine to go for. I'm thinking the 1.8 or 2.0 because I know the old Zetec-E engine is a tank of a thing which runs forever, whereas the Sigma (1.4/1.6) can have issues as it ages. The only question is which engine to go for. There seems to be precious little in it price-wise, and the 2.0 would seem to be a closer match on power for the Golf than the 1.8, but equally the car is going to spend a lot of time on short runs (I will take it to work once a week to give it a run), so is the 2.0 significantly thirstier than the 1.8 in urban work? Is there much of a performance difference in the real world?
Looking to spend £2k ish which will be an early noughties car with 90k or so on the clock. Either a 1.8 or 2.0 Zetec 5dr hatch.
Any advice/opinions welcome.
Cheers
DP
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I have a Y reg 1.8 petrol Focus. I've had it since it was 10 months old.
The most miles I can get from a full tank of fuel is 425. Although the car averages about 36 mpg. The car has travelled 143,000 miles
I have been driving a fiesta 1.6 diesel (company car) for 8 months now and although quite happy with it I am a tad annoyed by the fuel consumption. The technical spec mentions that anything up to nearly 70 to the gallone can be achieved and indeed it must have impressed someone enough to let it off with 35 quid road tax. The reality is that nothing like 70mpg is attainable or 60 or even 50. The cars computer gives an average of just 42 mpg. I thought it might be a problem with the computer itself so I filled up, noted the mileage and set off from Milton Keynes to Bristol and back and a fair bit of running round MK. Filling up again showed that I had achieved 44 mpg which I recon is pretty poor bearing in mind Fords claim. I generally keep within the speed limit, don't accelerate like a nutter and don't run around with a bag of cement in the boot so what's going wrong here?
If I had bought the car with my own money could I take it back to Ford demanding my money back because there's no way this vehicle will achieve anything like the fuel consumption they claim? Read more
Well per an article I read recently in an unremembered car magazine some of the less scrupleous manufacturers hit on the wheeze of a special engine managment unit that "recognised" the test configuration and went into a special mode ( which if I understood would have been useless in a real world situation) for the duration of the test.
Hence achieving unrealsitically low CO2/high MPG
Scheesh!
But regardless I only use the Government figures for comparison between models or makes or engines /gearboxes
Had a call from my Father who will be 85 in about three months. He'd received paperwork from DVLA about renewing his license and seems to think it's different at 85.
I've looked on the directgov site and couldn't find details. Phoned the 'helpline' that rings once then cuts you off!
Can anyone guide me?
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If this is the case then why do HGV drivers need retesting why do Aircraft
Pilots need retesting?
If you'd care to start another thread (IHAQ, perhaps) about 85-year-old HGV drivers or commercial pilots....
I don't know whether or not i'm teaching people to suck eggs here...but...
The modern Astras have the same fuse for the washers and the boot opening.... and if the washer jets freeze, you try to use them and they can't/won't work, they'll easily blow the fuse..which will mean they obviously won't work, but unless your stopped and can here the washer motor isn't working, you wouldn't know that because you'd think it was the ice blocking it...and when you get to your destination you won't be able to open the boot either.
Then, unless you have a screwdriver handy, you can't access the under bonnet fuse box to borrow a fuse from elsewhere just to get the boot open.
So...in this cold weather, work out which fuse it is, get a spare and keep a screwdriver in the glovebox, not the boot. Not sure if it's the same with other Vauxhalls. Read more
What a daft car and i have one.!
I'm considering one of these chips' from Ebay, as a cheap non invasive tuning fix. They all offer an item which seems to clip in line with your diesel HDi common rail injector, and claim to take most Peugeot Citroen (and BMW, and Ford HDi's) 110hp HDi up to 130hp, for somewhere in the region of £85-£100.
Anyone got any experience of these? Here is a link to several on Ebay now, under search term 'HDI tuning Citroen'.
BTW: Ive got the Citroen Synergie 2.0 HDi 2000 W reg, with 135k on the clock, which you can see here: citroensynergie.wordpress.com/
bit.ly/4XOoy0 (item no:
bit.ly/6V0Cgr (item no: 120441943597)
bit.ly/8LwioA (item no: 120442949918)
Thanks! Read more
Not an HDI tuning module, but I bought a similar cheap plug-in tuning box for my old Passat 130 TDI.
The box exploited the well-documented "resistor in the fuel temperature sensor" trick that's common to the VAG 1.9 PD motors, which fools the ECU into thinking the fuel is hot, therefore less dense, so it injects a greater volume of fuel per cycle.
It was £18 from an eBay vendor, if I remember correctly. It did give a useful boost in torque (for example, the 40-60mph interval in 4th gear was nearly 10% quicker) and had no noticeable impact on economy.
I ran it for about 8,000 miles but eventually removed it, because it made the throttle hypersensitive at low rpm / small 'openings', which made town traffic tiresome.
But it was fun and well worth the money, in my view. My insurance premium didn't increase, I told them it was a plug-in economy module.
I'd suggest it's worth knowing exactly how the module you plan to fit actually works .... some plug into the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail and increase the output of the high-pressure pump, further loading an already highly stressed component.
Hi,
I know very little about cars. I bought this Vauxhall Astra 1.6 8V LS recently and discovered that it is running very roung and the temperature guage normally stays below the starting marks and only goes up when stuck in traffic but comes back as soon as it is out of the traffic. In addition to this I noticed the fuel consumption is too high and the exhaust emissions are highier than normal. I get the timming belt and water pump changed as they were due. It improved the situation but it is still running slightly rough and the fuel consumption is too high as compared to my previous cars.
Could anybody in the forum help me to sort out this problem. Thanks in advance Read more
It is running fine and my car is now heating upto the normal temperatures. The thermostate I bought was set at 88deg C and the fan cuts in exactly when the temperature show me about 92degC.
To me it is just a genius solution to the poor vuaxhall design and their funny wisdom to locate the thermostate so deep inside the engine block and I really appreciate the person who invented this solution.
Browse
Hi,
Just wanted to post my experience because the information I have read to date has helped me tremendously and avoided a £2,000 bill at the garage!
I have had rough idling issues with the car (Ford Mondeo TDCi 2.0 130 Ghia 05 plate, done about 104k miles). Garage identified injector fault. Bought used injectors from ebay, garage fitted them all in for about £400.
Second issue was car entering limp mode over 2000 revs, which could be resolved temporarily by turning engine on and off whilst doing over 50mph or so (not recommended!). Garage advised fault code P2263 which points to a duff turbo and a £2k, 3 day turnaround. However, I cleaned out the EGR valve ? no improvement. Then I removed the electronic actuator (not recommended by ford to separate actuator and turbo ? precision set up?!) and also checked that the turbo was free spinning by taking off the intake pipe. Also I presumed no variable vane turbo issues because this has a separate engine management fault code P139A a faulty turbo actuator reading code.
Just before going on holiday for a week I bidded on ebay for a no guarantee actuator but lost it, so lashed out £350 on a recon turbo/manifold and actuator. On return, 10 minutes and a swapout for the electronic actuator only and problem resolved. I did have another engine fault light on but reset the ECU by removing power for 20 minutes (took off main car battery positive lead).
I hope this helps someone in a similar situation. I will now call the recon people and see if they want their turbo and actuator back!