January 2010
Hi all
I know it's a long shot but I have recently bought a 2001 307 and I am having a problem with the indicator stalk. After I have indicated right the stalk over cancels itself causing me to indicate left. After researching the problem i have found that it's a very common fault and very expensive to get replaced.
I have found somewhere to buy recondition comm 200 unit for £90.00 plus you have to send them your old one..... this suggests to me that it can be repaired???
1. Could I repair the old one myself and if so what will I need and will it need to be connected to diagnostics computer afterwards
if I cannot repair the unit myself can I replace it myself, and again will it need to be connected to diagnostics computer
Any help would be very much appreciated Read more
Hello,
I'm hoping to get some help here because I'm thoroughly confused. Over the weekend I was rear-ended by an old lady who wouldn't exchange insurance details with me. I took down her registration number, contacted the police and found out her name and contact no.
Today I took the car for an estimate and was told that my back-panel is in need of repair, that the tailgate is also broken and that there is a danger of exhaust fumes entering the car so I must drie with the window open at all times (but he didn't say not to drive it).
At the bodyshop, I was passed immediately to an accident management company, who claim to offer a courtesy car and take care of all the liasing with insurers and such - they told me that it didn't matter that I didn't know who the other driver's insurance com[any were and they would sort the whole thing out, and I didn't really have to do anything but give them some details.
It all sounded a bit too good to be true, so I contacted my own insurer; 1) to report the incident and 2) to see what their advice was. I was told that there isn't neccesarily anything wrong with accident management companies, but that to cover all bases I should contact the other driver's insurer first to see what they say, and inform them that I have an accident management company willing to take on my case.
I contacted the other insurer, but was told that I would need a postcode or address for the other driver. I'm worried about speaking to this woman because she was even rude to the police officer that spoke to her, and claims that I 'wanted to leave' and 'told her it didn't matter' - neither of these things are true, but I guess that's by the by.
The main issue is that I don't know whether to just pursue this via the insurers in the normal way (I only have third party cover, I don't know if this should influence my decision) or let this accident management company do it all for me.
Any advice? (sorry it's so long - there's a lot to explain) Read more
In fact I think you are really claiming from the other driver, and it's down to her to advise her ins co., so I'd write a "without prejudice" letter to her in person sent recorded delivery, with a copy of the quote and a demand for the car rental thrown in. Advise her that if you do not hear from her with XX days then you will proceed and send her the bill in person.
That will concentrate her mind, and I expect she'll call her ins co immediately.
Living in the north midlands I dont often have to go south of watford.
I need to drop some relatives as Heathrow Terminal 3 and then pick up a couple of weeks later. Been many years since I was at heathrwo.
Any advice on how to do this? Do I have to park and pay or is there a free drop off zone? Is there heavy security stopping cars getting close to terminal bldg. Also what would be the best route coming off the M40 to Heathrow. Thanks. Read more
Generally dropping off is not a problem though it is a mess around T1 and T3 currently because T2 is being demolished for a new one to be built after which T1 and T3 will suffer the same fate respectively.
They should demolish the rest of it while they are at it, Heathrow must be one of the worst airports in terms of "flow" in the world, it's not fit for purpose, (and BA don't provide decent links with the rest of the UK, but that is a different saga)!
Rant over.
Recently purchase a 2006 (56) Ford Focus from motabillity auction (BCA)
Only got 1 remote key.
Got another manual key cut from a hardware shop (Bouldings in Leicester) which he also programmed with some kind of key scanner and laptop software.
New key opens door and starts engine fine, but if I open rear door the alarm goes off.
The only way to then turn off the alarm is to use the unlock button on the remote key.
Took car to a garage I use often. Not Ford but he use to fix my old fiesta for several years.
The guy fidled around with both keys and his outcome was that if use remote signal all works ok, but if use either key to open door manually it does not disable the alarm with the rear door and as a reslut the alarm start off.
He seems to think it is a problem with the lock and there is some kind of swicth to replace in the lock mechanisim.
But it seems odd the alarm dosent go off when I open driver door.
Could it be the new key I got made messed up the alarm system?
I havent found anything on the net about problems with the locks on Focus and alarm system so could it still be a problem with the programming.
The car has only done 15K so seems odd it should be faulty?
I dont realy want the the guy removing the door paneling and fiddling with the lock unless needed.
Thanks,
JD.
Read more
Thanks guys for the feedback. I tested as you said and works as you said.
Looks like another £100 for a remote again, at least I have a manual backup just it case.
Dont know if all these key fiddle instructions are in the owners manuals because I didnt get one. I orderd a Haynes manual so presumably all these bits and more should be in there.
Either way you saved me an expensive trip to my local mechanic, Im not sure he realy knew what he was doing? He was the same guy who diagnosed my olds car cylinder had lost compresion AFTER he changed the exhaust.
JD.
Oh dear, this is a long story ... and I live in Portugal, just in case it makes a difference ... e.g. to the model.
A few weeks ago, my car wouldn't start after filling up with fuel ... electrics all fine, turning over fine ... and then after a few tries it fired and off we went.
Same thing happened a couple of days later but this time it didn't start at all. It was a Sat am, so got it taken to a quick repair type place who diagnosed a broken fuel pump. This fitted as the car seemed "quiet" when turning on the ignition ... i.e. you coudn't hear the normal humm of the fuel pump working.
They had to order the part which took a few days, then installed it. All seemed fine. But immediately after picking up the car, the same thing happened again. The mechanic came, tried a few times and it worked. he said there was a problem with the igniton barrel ... which was admittedly very sticky, possibly because of a worn key.
The car worked fine for a few days and then the same thing happened again and I couldn't get it to go at all. The mechanics from the same garage came out, checked everything (fuses relays etc) and suddenly it started working again. They said they didn't do anything, and that the problem was to do with the ignition key barrel.
It is clearly to do with the fuel pump because the absence of a sound from the fuel pump when turning on the ignition is so noticeable.
Worried that it might happen again I went to Ford who were reluctant to say what it could be without seeing it but mentioned the key, the "fuel pump module" and the possible need to reprogramme the fuel pump. I booked the car in for a week later.
When I got home I tried my spare key which turned in the lock much more smoothly and all seemed fine so I cancelled the Ford appointment .... until a couple of days later (just before New Year's Eve) when the car wouldn't start at all ... also after filling up with fuel. Even my son bouncing up and down on the back seat above the fuel tank (which had worked before) could not coax the fuel pump into life.
A local garage said they would look at it after the New Year break and after several hours of looking and removing the fuel tank to get at the pump (during which they did confirm that a new fuel pump had been fitted) they located a connecting plug near the fuel pump which was burned out and had a melted wire. They replaced this and the car has been working fine for the past week.
Until today: twice it has behaved in exactly the same way, but fortunately started in the end. One of the occasions was after putting in some fuel. I am now very concerned that it is going to leave me in the lurch again and am wondering whether anyone has experinece of this sort of problem and/or suggestions about what it might be?
The odd thing about it is that the car has never stopped while actually running ... it just won't work from starting ... is it possible that it is to do with the keys/coding etc after all? Is there a direct link from the ignition to the fuel pump ... because all the other electrics are working fine.
Any thoughts gratefully received ... Read more
Hi
I have access to the fuel pump via a cut out in the seat. Is it easy to replace the connectors? If I buy them online are they called fuel pump connectors? How much do you think a garage would charge for this job?...
My wifes C3 1.4 petrol wont start following the battery dying a couple of weeks ago. Since then i have replaced the battery and coil pack. The car currently shows as in "eco mode" and the battery warning light keeps flashing. I have scoured the net for a clue to what the issue is, even had a friend in a garage put it on his diagnostic computer but no faults showed up. i have tried to reset the BSI following the instructions found on the net but still no difference. this really is winding me up now and any help would be appreciated. Read more
Hi Tazmania480,
I have similar problem with my citroen c3 petrol engine 2002 model now. How di d you solve the problem. Car driving me nut already.
My dads neighbour owns a 3 series BMW which cannot cope in snow and ice. The chap has taken to borrowing my dads ancient Rover 216 estate to get the 20 odd miles to work and back.
He is toying with the idea of buying a small four wheel drive car for use when the going gets tough. They all live up a narrow country lane so there will be other times when something a little higher up and rugged would be useful.
I would reccommend him a Fiat Panda but are there any other small 4x4's around which are equally as good and cheap to tax, insure and maintain? Read more
Just a thought for the OP, but as he's proved that the old Rover 216 works just fine, then surely the answer to his quest is.... and old Rover 216??!!
Now the time is here to put it back together I need the torque setting! It is discs all round on this car. Tried to buy a haynes but halfords was out of stock. Read more
Quote: 'That is a hefty old setting! I know it wasnt that tight when I took the old nut off!'
What isn't understood sometimes is that when undoing a nut or whatever the break loose torque is much less than the applied torque. So loosening a nut takes much less effort than tightening. That is why you cannot test the accuracy of a torque wrench by using another to undo a fastening.
I've just read the Ultraviolet report on the Astra Club 1.6i 16v which claims an overall fuel consumption of 55mpg. Shurely shome mishtake, mishta??? Even Mrs W's 1.6 Focus, when driven like a nun on a motorway run, will only get 44mpg. Read more
Mine is a 06 plate 1.6 sxi sporthatch im lucky if i get 350mls round town driving on a run 420 it's poor on fuel but got better at 18k miles was bad before that, now at 27k.
Get a diesel if you want economy thats my advice.
what is tyre pressue for 5 door k12 as doesnt say in manual Read more
cheers for that. does it matter if you do them higher at the back?
The bulk of the weight of your car is at the front - where the engine is. You only really need to increase rear tyre pressures when carrying passengers and / or if you filled the boot up with shopping or dead bodies.
Browse
Having the same problem.
I found this on a peugeot forum and seems to be very helpfull: www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBBeRvig-tw...