January 2010
hi my micra has keyless entry and the key battery has gone dead. i dont have a spare key so how do i get in my car? as cant see a key hole. read somewhere there should be one on passenger door side to override keyless entry so you can open door with the actual metal key but cant find it.
please help as cant get in my car to go and get new key battery!! Read more
Hi There
I need a little advice. I have a Vauxhall Corsa 07 plate its on 2 and half years old and under warranty until May 10. Its had all its relevant services (not at Vauxhall, but at my local car garage, my book has been stamped and i have the receipts). I have had a winter check at Vauxhall last year so it has been well looked after. The past few weeks i have heard a weird noise from my heater when i put it on highest setting 4. I popped into the Vauxhall garage as i had a front light out which they fixed and they couldn't spare me 5 mins to look at the car and said that i had to book it in. So.... i made an appointment but as they didnt have any courtesy cars untill the end of the week i had to wait until then. During the week the heater stopped working and cold air was coming out, i called them and stated this and they said for me to check my coolant level as this would be the reason. When i checked this it was slighlty below the level so topped this up and the heater came back on. The snow came down heavily the next few days and i was unable to move my car so asked whether i could move my appointment until the following week, once again they had no courtesy cars available until the end of the week so had to wait until then. Over the next couple of days i kept checking the water level as the heater kept going cold so i kept topping this up so that it could last until my appointment. Last Thurs my car broke down on the way to work and it completely died. I had to get recovery and the recovery man said that it looked as though the head Gasket had blown and the water coolant container was leaking into the engine causing it to overheat and cut out. The vauxhall garage originally said that this should be covered under warranty , but now there technicians have looked at this they said that they may not pay for this as they think i've driven for too long on low water causing more damage. The next coming days they are going to be sending a technician from head office to determine who should be liable. I'm not silly and no that they are going to get out of this as it looks as though its going to be a big job and they may have to replace the engine. I'm so annoyed as the car is so young and the recovery guy said this normally happens on cars 10 years old. I've had problem after problem with this car since i've had it and this could end up costing me a fortune (2K plus), do you think i have a case to take this futher? Kind Regards. Read more
whilst i sympathise with your predicament you do have some responisbility to look after your vehicle & you knew something was wrong! making excuses like snow & the garage too busy is just an excuse.
All the years I have worked in the trade I have seen so many cars destroyed where they have been driven to distruction !!!!!...
I bought a new fiesta in June of last year. Two months later it started struggling to start. Took it to garage twice and they found no problem.
This morning car would not start. Just turning over and not even trying to start. On third attempt I tried depressing the accelerator and it tried to start. On fourth attempt (whilst depressing accelrator slightly) it started. After a few seconds I switched it off and started it again. (It did start) It had low revs (below 1000 rpm, 500 rpm I think) then creeped up to cold idle revs of 1200 rpm. Does anyone have the an answer as to what this is. Its booked into the garage for Wednesday but would like an idea of what this could be so they can't fob me off. I think it could be the starter motor)
Any help much appreciated Read more
Have you guys had any luck with resolving this problem as stated in the original message. I know i am about 7 years too late but non the less i have over the last 6 months been dealing with exactly the same issues. The car struggles to start, the motor turns but it takes a few attemts before it runs and no faults are shown when diagnostics are done.
This is an extremely anoying ongoing issue and would really appreciate any advice. As we all know our cars are basically our livelyhood....
hi i really need some help my car was running fine before i changed the injector seals and metal injector pipes i just had the smell of fumes in the car and slightly leaky round the injectors but now ive put the new seals on etc the car wont start at all its just turning over no sign of it going ive got no engine lights on ive double checked everything ive even put the injectors back in the same holes as i marked them up could they have lost there programme to the ecu theres no air locks and plenty of diesel is getting through ive been told it could be a certain hidden fuse & This particular fuse controls power to the Ecu and other components ? does any1 know where this This particular fuse is ? its just like something has shut down ? any help would be greatfull thanks Read more
After scouring the forums I finally found a solution to this starting problem.
I bled the diesel system on my 1.6 tdci fusion 2005 by connecting a one way had primer to the return pipe on the high pressure side. I then turned the key to the second notch a few times in order for the hp pump to prime itself I also added a bit of easy start to the air intake and then tried to start. The first attempt didn't work but the second did !
I think we're focusing too much on bleeding the fuel filter when we should be concentrating on pulling air-free fuel through the pump.
On two occasions I have had the brakes fail when joining a roundabout. The brake pedal goes hard like the servo is not working and the car does not stop, quite frightening. Problem goes away and works perfectly ok when you go for the brakes again.
I googled this problem and found that it is a common problem with the A4, RAC website has at least 20 members that have had the same problem!
Have taken the car to Audi today and they have confirmed water has entered the servo and master cylinder, cost to replace £780 including 10% discount!
The water gets into the servo via the plenium chamber (battery area). This surface water is meant to drain away via a 'plug hole' located under the battery. As this plug hole is impossible to access without taking the battery out and the fact you would not be aware of its existence, it gets blocked and therefore causes the problem.
I now learn that this plug has been the subject of a recall notice for this car of which I have never been made aware of. They say they made the modification in August (2009) when cam belt changed. No notice of that when picked up in August and no mention of it on invoice when paying cam belt bill. So I am left to think that they never did this modification, hence the water ingress.
So left high and dry, with a known fault about water ingress to servo causing sudden loss of brakes.
I have owned the car from new at the same address. Audi managed to send me sales details but don't manage to call me in for what I consider to be an important recall.
I would be glad if any other A4 drivers have had any similar problem and ask if you could post here if you have had the 'drain plug' modification done and whether you know about it. For something as important as brakes, I feel I am not going to be fobbed off quite so calmly, without a fight. Read more
hello we have an audi a4 and our servo went on it we have sorted some aftermarket and they are only £145 + vat
...
Does anyone know where this is and what is the correct value please? Read more
possibly correcting myself.. I think I am remembering when the fuse for the rear hatch
lock went rather than the wipers - damned Renault electrics!
So the newer Micras have Renault electrics. I didn't realise that.
Mike
Firstly, why do manufacturers always quote fuel economy figures for Urban & Extra-urban? Can they just not say "Town" and "Motorway" instead?
What does "Combined" mean? 50% town + 50% motorway?
Secondly, at what speed these figures are measured?
How nearer to these figures one can go under normal driving conditions? Read more
The fact is that while you probably compare car A with car B from the published figures what YOU will get from either will be down to how YOU drive it more than anything else. I would also think that the person who presses on will do proportionaly worse in the more economical car than in the less economical car.
Hi looking for advice please.
I want to drive an estate car, not an MPV.
I have 3 kids (7, 5, 3) I'd like the option of sitting them all in row comfortably. When we pick up friends I'd like to open up spare seats in the boot.
I guess I'm looking for an estate that can have a 7 seat conversion?
I know the Volvo V70 has this option and the Merc estates too. Any other options or tips on companies that'll convert other estates?
By the way I really don't want an MPV of any sort, I just prefer estates.
Thanks,
wbuchan Read more
Have used a Carens - for all intents it is a 7-seat estate car. Doesn't look much like a Zafira/Touran. Also looks muuuuch better in silver than in dark/black.
2.0TD is adequate, and returned over 40mpg 6-up over 500miles of mixed driving.
I have a small oil leak in the Intercooler, which obviously will need replacing. Had a service and check done to find the leak on Monday, when they assured me that the turbo is a bit worn but fine.
I am still driving the car, as advised this was okay, but frequently checking the oil. Went to buy oil yesterday - usually have fully synthetic 5/40, but checked the garage receipt to discover they had refilled with 10/30 - semi synthetic.
Questions:
Will this oil damage the engine?
The Uniparts store I bought oil from said I could not top up with the normal oil - is this right?
Can I leave this oil in until the intercooler is changed?
Finally, the Intercooler is quite an expensive bit of kit. I feel it would be safer to buy new, despite the cost - or could I get away with second hand?
Thanks in advance. :-)
Read more
My oil cooler just started leaking. Took it to a semi-retired, experienced mechanic who replaced the gaskets and seals for me. $30 in parts vs an new oil cooler ($650). Did the trick. Pays to hire someone that knows what they are doing.
Oh dear, this is a long story ... and I live in Portugal, just in case it makes a difference ... e.g. to the model.
A few weeks ago, my car wouldn't start after filling up with fuel ... electrics all fine, turning over fine ... and then after a few tries it fired and off we went.
Same thing happened a couple of days later but this time it didn't start at all. It was a Sat am, so got it taken to a quick repair type place who diagnosed a broken fuel pump. This fitted as the car seemed "quiet" when turning on the ignition ... i.e. you coudn't hear the normal humm of the fuel pump working.
They had to order the part which took a few days, then installed it. All seemed fine. But immediately after picking up the car, the same thing happened again. The mechanic came, tried a few times and it worked. he said there was a problem with the igniton barrel ... which was admittedly very sticky, possibly because of a worn key.
The car worked fine for a few days and then the same thing happened again and I couldn't get it to go at all. The mechanics from the same garage came out, checked everything (fuses relays etc) and suddenly it started working again. They said they didn't do anything, and that the problem was to do with the ignition key barrel.
It is clearly to do with the fuel pump because the absence of a sound from the fuel pump when turning on the ignition is so noticeable.
Worried that it might happen again I went to Ford who were reluctant to say what it could be without seeing it but mentioned the key, the "fuel pump module" and the possible need to reprogramme the fuel pump. I booked the car in for a week later.
When I got home I tried my spare key which turned in the lock much more smoothly and all seemed fine so I cancelled the Ford appointment .... until a couple of days later (just before New Year's Eve) when the car wouldn't start at all ... also after filling up with fuel. Even my son bouncing up and down on the back seat above the fuel tank (which had worked before) could not coax the fuel pump into life.
A local garage said they would look at it after the New Year break and after several hours of looking and removing the fuel tank to get at the pump (during which they did confirm that a new fuel pump had been fitted) they located a connecting plug near the fuel pump which was burned out and had a melted wire. They replaced this and the car has been working fine for the past week.
Until today: twice it has behaved in exactly the same way, but fortunately started in the end. One of the occasions was after putting in some fuel. I am now very concerned that it is going to leave me in the lurch again and am wondering whether anyone has experinece of this sort of problem and/or suggestions about what it might be?
The odd thing about it is that the car has never stopped while actually running ... it just won't work from starting ... is it possible that it is to do with the keys/coding etc after all? Is there a direct link from the ignition to the fuel pump ... because all the other electrics are working fine.
Any thoughts gratefully received ... Read more
Hi
I have access to the fuel pump via a cut out in the seat. Is it easy to replace the connectors? If I buy them online are they called fuel pump connectors? How much do you think a garage would charge for this job?...
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Any make of CR2032 battery should be ok.
It probably mentions in the car's handbook how to resync the remote keyfob after a battery change. If not, then I or someone else will google the information for you.