May 2008

NowWheels

Hmmm. Thanks for the links, but it's disappointing to see this sort of thing cast as threat to honest traders.

I'm generally wary of yet more regulations, but these ones seem rather good. By outlawing all sorts of dishonest practices such as bait advertising, they make it harder for dodgy businesses to compete against the honest traders. Read more

Mapmaker

>>65% of Britons think that second hand car dealers are likely to rip them off

The other 35% know it.

Lud

Iraqi pal drove me last night in gf's car, a 94 Golf CL auto. The car goes perfectly well but the idle speed in N or P was above 1000 rpm at all times, usually between 1100 and 1400. Without knowing specifically what the idle speed should be, I thought this was on the high side, and of course the variation seemed to indicate some sort of fault. He says the car is quite thirsty, but again no figures. Although a perfectly sensible driver well used to London, he surprised me by asking what the rev counter was. I seem to remember his BMW 520 auto had one too.

Is it possible that this high and variable idle is caused by mechanical stickiness in the main inlet butterfly rather than some engine management glitch? If so, might it be amenable to a bit of oil and rattling the butterfly back and forth a few times? I feel that my friend and his gf may not be too good at judging a garage, and the VW specialist I recommend is in Kilburn, while they live beyond Richmond. Does anyone have any ideas about this? Informed comment gratefully received.

Read more

Lud

Thanks very much Screwloose. I will pass that all on.

johnnym4

My colleague has just brought one of these vehicles and he is having intermittent problems with it.

It starts first thing in the morning, do a short journey in it. After parking the car and switching it off, the car will not start again for another 40 mins - 1 hr. All the lights on the dashboard come up, engine trying to fire up but does not. Similar circumstance as to if a car overheats and you have to wait for it to cool down before it will work again.

Does anyone have any ideas as to if this is a common known fault or what the issue could be related to?

Many Thanks. Read more

elekie&a/c doctor

A diagnostic check may indicate the fault.However from your description I would hazard a guess at the problem being the camshaft sensor.A known issue with these and usually requires a modified sensor and adaptor lead.hth

johnreeves

Noticed a leak from top end of number 4 injector. Any ideas what needs replacing ? and how to get access to it. Car has 164,000 on clock and runs fine once statred. Read more

thomp1983

3 or 4 6mm allen key bolts at the back, two 10mm bolts at the front (one each corner, tricky to get at) then the jubilee clip on the left. if your removing the intercooler then you'll likely need a new intercooler gasket there about £2 from the dealer. they expand so they won't fit back in once the i/c is removed.

chris

adverse camber

My dad is having problems finding an oil filter wrench for his 2006 saab 9-5 1.9 diesel.

Can anyone point me at a supplier? Is it the same as a vauxhall one? This is the cartridge thingy.

thanks Read more

Natty Bumppo

04 reg. Had it 18 months. Drivers side was the first to fail. Passenger side 6 months later. Drivers side again last week. 'Phoned main dealer. The warranty was extended to 4 years, I was told but 'yours is now out of warranty' - it is - by 8 days.
Fortunately they did it FOC. I asked what would be the cost if I had to pay. £180 plus VAT for the parts and £120 labour.
I can't afford £660 per year to have opening windows. I hope the reliability of the newest parts is better than previous.
Read more

DP

What makes it all the more galling is that the actual failed part is usually a little plastic clip which would cost no more than two quid if it were available separately. Which of course it isn't. The expensive motor is usually perfectly serviceable.

I recently had my Scenic II's passenger side done out of warranty courtesty of Renault UK. I understand the new parts are upgraded, but haven't seen them side by side to compare.

Cheers
DP

Jonathan {p}

www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/s/1050382_350...e

Some £35k in fines have been repaid.
Read more

matstro

Sorry to sound dense - but on the Bora 1.6 petrol 1999 model, can someone tell me where what I've been told is the ECT sensor (apparently better known as Engine Control Tempertaure sensor) This is the sensor that affects running and in particular idle. According to the manual, the sensor is in the MAF and cannot be replaced seperately. Although, in talking with German and Swedish, they tell me it can be purchased - I'm wondering whether they have the right sensor in mind though, as they're talking about it being into the block or head.

Could anyone shed any light???

many thanks in advance....

{various repeated stuff in subject header that gets picked up and displayed when you make your choice from the drop down menus deleted} Read more

Dynamic Dave

Havn't posted for ages and didn't realise the system had changed.


You haven't noticed the edit button yet then ;o)
(only valid for 5 mins or until someone replies to your post though)
Glacier

A friend has just picked up a Carisma 1.8GDI for a couple of hundred quid and I notice on HJ review it mentions about carbon build up in the engine.

Would Seafoam motor treatment or Ecotek Power Boost help?

www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpConsumer.htm
www.ecotekplc.com/power_boost.htm Read more

Screwloose


The rock-hard carbon builds up in the inlet tract; so no whizzo product will touch it.

The head and manifold need taking to a specialist cleaners - crushed walnut shells are reputed to be quite effective.

mscott

The 3rd - 4th change in my 190E could be a bit severe at certain revs but 2 weeks ago seemed to become smoother. Now it changes up to 4th but then "slips", ie. put your foot down, revs go up but speed builds very slowly like a slipping clutch in a manual. Can anyone tell me if there's something simple I can tighten, or is it a new gearbox job? Thanks. Read more

Number_Cruncher

Remove and plug the vacuum line to the modulator valve. This should make all the shifts rock hard. If it does, the fault is external to the gearbox. If it doesn't, you probably have a gearbox problem.

As above, check the flid level - take care to follow, pedantically, the correct procedure for this.

Also, check the adjustment and condition of the kickdown cable.