May 2008
My Scenic just doesn't want to go! It pulls away and all seems fine till you get to about 2000 rpm, just when you'd expect the turbo to start kicking in. Then there's no boost or acceleration, in fact if anything it feels like it holds back a bit, like a bit of a flat spot. You can rev it through the gears all you like but it just makes noise but no acceleration. If you hit even the slightest incline out on the road, then its down the gears, sometimes as far as third, just to keep it going. Theres no excessive smoke or any other signs of anything wrong. any one got any ideas?? Read more
I really must get rid of the rubbish budget Chinese tyres on my Mondeo III Estate, wet grip/braking in particular is hopeless.
I'm not convinced I need premium brands at £120 a corner and had been thinking about Vredestein Ultracs which I've liked in the past.
However Falken tyres are mentioned by several folks as good on a Mondeo and I'm just looking into them. The two possible types are ZE912 and FK452. I can get either fitted/balanced for £70 which seems almost too cheap if they are any good.
Wet grip is important to me.. also towing traction pulling a boat off a damp slipway.
Any thoughts or experiences of the Falkens??
Thanks,
David Read more
Good. I've just put a pair of 912's onto the rear of the Mondeo (205/55/16 @ £65 each fitted). I wanted something less pricey than Continental that were £78 each. The Conti tyres seem to wear quite a bit faster (down to 3mm after 12k) than any other tyre that I've had on the car (NCT5, Potenza RE720).
SWMBO usually drives the car. I've had no complaints.
hi, any one got any good tips on taking the piston back in to the calipier,i have a g-clamp but on the rear pads the piston has to be turned at the same time as the pressure is a applied.
any help would be greatly appreciated. Read more
i normally do these by hand with a pair of needle nose pliers, just need to perfect turning whilst pushing on the pliers at the same time.
chris
I will be starting my own business soon and need to very economical car to drive. Will be driving about 75 miles daily, 7 days a week. Need to replace my existing petrol car (30 mpg) with something that cheap to buy and run. Image not imporant, but no Micra, no French cars. The car needs to be reliable.
Any opinions. Thinking of the following diesels VW Polo 1.4, Skoda Fabia 1.4 , Toyota Yaris 1.4, Mitsubishi Colt 1.5. Any thoughts?
{slight tweek to subject line so as not to confuse buying a car with all the recent fuel related threads kicking about} Read more
In the reliability stakes forget the firdt one if that is a major criteria,the cit ci or any of its derivitves Pug,Toyota in petrol form would be my choice.
Hi I have a warning light which is a picture of a car with a key at the back - I have no idea what this means and dont have my manual - can anyone help? Thanks Read more
Immobiliser warning on the Roomster - guess they must be the same. Is it green ?
Hi,
Did a search and found nothing recent on this subject. Drive this section only a couple of times a month and some time ago I stopped looking out to see if cameras have been installed. Then last night on M25 south, just about to peel off down the M3, I noticed camera boxes on the overhead gantry. They looked different to the ones that used to be on that section before the widening, which were same as currently between M3 and A3.
Have they been there long and did I miss a ton of newly installed cameras before I got to the ones I spotted?
Cheers,
Dave Read more
I thought so:-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=56088&...e
The introduction of electric power steering in recent years has brought about an outcry from the motoring press about the lack of feel these steering systems impart. Even BMW have reverted to a traditional PAS system for their M series models, having allegedly admitted that they cannot get the required feel using the electric system from the lesser models.
Does anyone know what the technical reason for this is? Do the systems not work the same way, but with the simple substitution of a belt driven pump for an electric one, or is it a fundamental change in design? To my untrained brain, electric systems would appear to offer an advantage, as the level of assistance (and therefore by consequence, feel) can be controlled directly by the pump operation. Clearly though I'm missing something.
There have always been awful PAS setups using the traditional method, but equally there have been some brilliantly weighted and accurate steering setups (Pug 306, Focus 1, MX-5 and doubtless many others). I have yet to see a review of anything with electric PAS being praised for its steering.
Why is this?
Cheers
DP
Read more
Been on that "Gatport Airwick" one a few times and the one at Stansted. Still feels like witchcraft if you are standing at the front!
RoSPA recommend that motor cycles use daytime running lights. Even the 1999 version of the Highway Code recommends it.
So why oh why do the motor cyclists in Lothian & Borders Police not even use their lights when it's foggy, teeming with rain, a bad light? Should they not set an example to other motorists? Or do they just think that, with their high-vis jackets, everyone will see them? Or, because they're plods, no one would dare crash into them if they couldn't be seen the through the spray thrown up by a 38 tonner? Read more
Hear Hear. In 40years I have never ridden with daytime lights(if given the choice) - some of my old bikes have no lights ! Even on quick modern Japanese bikes I have never hit anyone who "hasn't seen me" and I've fallen off a few times(often my fault). I've had people and cars "not see me" but I was taught to assume the worst and act accordingly. I raced bikes for many years and maybe that got rid of the madness that afflicts some.
As always car loses power, and fault code P132A, how to cure it and what are the causes.
Any help appreciated. Read more
Hi Hanswurst73,
Elektronic-Help on the german forum you posted a link to says he has a fix for the electronic actuator on the turbo. Is this still tha case. I have fault code P132A and would like more information on the fix. Did you have the same problem? Did elektronic-help fix your actuator?
Thanks
Andy
This particular 1996 4.2 petrol / LPG Nissan Patrol Auto had grinding brakes . Garage took the rear wheels off and discovered deeply scored discs ( the fronts were replaced by a different garage about 8 months ago ). This vehicle is a 3rd car and does about 3000 miles annually .
Can Back Roomers help with ;
1) Where's the best price on new discs / pads ?
2) any ideas where to get the discs skimmed - am in North London , and what to pay ?
3) Original garage refused to allow me to have rear discs skimmed at the time of the last service / MOT , their reasons being the vehicle is so heavy , thinning the discs could compromise safety . I thought they were a tad pedantic , and as the last MOT / service with new front discs / pads and battery already came to over 500 sovs , I had to draw a line somewhere . Is there a problem with skimming these discs - it hasn't been done before , so they are unmolested . Read more
Minimum thickness of 16mm is correct. However, as new thickness is 18mm. So 1 mm of wear each side and the minimum thickness is reached.
Not sure how you can say so readily that the discs can be safely skimmed at least once?
To get them skimmed in the workshop will probably result in a higher labour charge (for most vechicles) than just replacing them. The garage will only have so much space for cars and if 1 is there longer while a job is being completed it is only fair to be charged for. How many garages have access to skimming machinery? If its outsourced there is time, travel, down time etc to be taken into account!
Most (I agree not all) will recommend disc replacement for safety rather than for profit and will probably advise you of this if you booked it in for brake pads. Odds on that any garage who takes a booking for brake pads will say " Its quite likely that your discs will be worn too; do you want them changed too or assessed and contact you?"
Saving £50 to reuse brake discs may just be a wrong choice!
If in doubt, ask the garage to keep the old discs/pads and show you when you collect the car why they needed changing and if it is incorect you will expect not to have to pay for it! Any garage trying it on will notbe happy to do that. Quite a simple solution really?
Thanks for info. I'll let you know how I get on.