October 2007
hi hope someone can help, my 1999 ford courier van with 1.8 Endura engine is an absolute pig to start in the morning, had new glow plugs...be it cheaper ones, but to no avail!!! to start i have to turn ignition, wait for light to go out then repeat 3 times to get started. if i try 1st turn it turns over for probly 20secs before firing up with a puff of white smoke!!!!
i have noticed though that after the glow plug light goes out, around 6 secs for the relay to click...this doesnt sound long enough?
thanx in advance
gaz Read more
Hi - just joined the forum and this is my 1st post.
Car 307SW HDi 110bhp 53 plate 55 miles
4 weeks ago I had a 48k mile service at the Peugeot dealership in Linwood, Renfrewshire. I mentioned that there was an ANTIPOLLUTION fault reported and would they have a look at it. Suffice to say they came back and told me they could not find anything, but mentioned that the flywheel and exhaust needed fixing.
Car had been running ok. Within days the car seized and flywheel had gone. I had it recovered to a local Kwik Fit and had repairs done. However on taking the car back it had gone into "limp home" mode under 2500revs. Took it back to the Peugeot dealer and they found the following ECU faults (all permanent):
1. Fuel pressure signal. Signal short circuit to positive, open circuit
2. Differential exhaust pressure signal. Coherence of the differential pressure when stopped
3. Additive system. Fuel tank cap pressure signal
They have suggested performing the following work:
Replace Fuel cap sensor 1503T2 £20.03
Replace pressure sensor FAP 161809 £73.74
Replace Rail pressure sensor 19207R £151.99
Add 2 litres of FAP Fluid 973685 £27.27
add in 3 hours of labour at £65/hr and it comes to £581.65 (inc vat)
I'm also concerned that they may have ignored the Particulate filter which I think should be changed aroun 50k miles
Could this problem could be related to the EGR?
Any advice on how I proceed with this as I've read many forums and I'm concerned that I do not want many visits and the problem still exists - especially after the recent costs to get the car back on the road. Read more
Balfy
So many points to cover here; I'll just have to use a lot of quote to do it. [Sorry PU]
I only used Peugeot to service
the car because of the Antipollution warning light. The fact that they were unable to
locate any problems with the diagnostics led me to go elsewhere
That's the first odd thing. The self-diagnosis is brilliant on these; if the AP warning was up there would have been codes; which - presumably - they cleared?
My local KF have been fairly reliable and I thought I'd go for a 2nd
opinion on the flywheel - however the problem kicked in within hours. Too late by
then. Ouch.
I'd never let K-F touch anything; be very careful taking a car of this horrendous complexity anywhere near them. Did they fit a genuine clutch and flywheel? What about the damage to the bellhousing etc?
I'm not sure whether KF did any damage to the differential pressure sensor on the
FAP or whether that was already a problem pre Peugeot service that they failed to
pick up on the diags.
Which bit of the exhaust did they fit? They would have had to disconnect the FAP sensor to do the flywheel etc. Frankly; most of your subsequent problems appear to be down to their goons. [You were lucky that they didn't "discover" that your shocks, or discs, were... "dangerous!"]
I also picked up on a EGR valve problem at www.peugeotcentral.co.uk/modules.php?name=Forums&f...3
which is why I thought there might be something related to the KF exhaust replacement.
I see nothing to suggest an EGR issue at all.
I've got a feeling that Rail pressure sensor may be disconnected - I've seen some
lines hanging down in the engine bay but I'm not entirely sure whether these may
be connected.
The rail pressure sensor is a big brass nut under the fuel rail at the g/box end. [If this is a 2.0 HDi.] It's plug is three wire; flat one end, rounded the other.
My plan is to get them to carry out the following:
1. Replace fuel cap sensor & fluid
2. Replace pressure sensor on FAP
Good move. But get them to check K-F's work first. It wasn't in limp before it went there.
What about ECU? I'd imagine there must be some process for resetting this and perhaps
updating the ECU with a latest release.
The additive ECU is a separate one. It will need re-setting to adapt to the new flap sensor and the new additive quantity. There is no level sensor - it measures the amount injected.
So what?
According to the local authority search conducted by a solicitor in respect of a property purchase, the 'primary property extent' is as expected - the house and the garden up to the edge.
The 'secondary property extent' however is not as expected. This is the bit up to the middle of the road. (And yes, it is an adopted road; very much so as it is an A road!) According to the plan, the property includes the bit up to the middle of the road in front of the property; fair enough. Also it extends 20m in front of the adjacent property; and it also includes a considerable chunk of their driveway.
So what?
Read more
Not sure of size or type of runners you need, but Ikea sell them seperatley - i bought a set the other week so that i could put a draw into an ikea tv bench.
I have a 1999 Audi A6 2.5 TDi V6 that won't start - can anyone give me a pointer in the right direction......?
The car has been left standing for 6 months. I went to it last weekend & the battery was completely flat, nothing in it whatsoever.
I removed the battery & fitted a brand new fully charged one, tried to start it, but wouldn't fire up.
I looked down the oil filler cap to ensure that the timing belt was OK & the belt is OK as everything in the rocker box is turning as it should.
I then cracked ALL 6 injector pipes on top of the injectors & there's plenty of fuel pumping out of them all.
I can squirt Easy Start into the air intake & the car fires up, but cuts out once the Essy Start has been burnt - I not do this too much for obvious reasons.
So now I'm presuming that it's something electrical.
Does any one have any ideas what it could be ? Read more
SS
You're 300 miles away. Anyway; these days I point - they undo.
Try C&R Enterprises in Radford. A little closer.
hi,
an opinions on the above cars?
looking at 2003 models, 330i is an auto 330de is 6 speed manual. the 330d is the later 204bhp engine.
Any owners opinions?
whats faster in the real world?
whats better to drive?
thanks Read more
I have more than simply driven both - we have a 530d and a 530i and I drive both on a regular basis (530i is mine, 530d is parents). They are also both the same age.
I prefer the 530i, it is a faster car for sure (Both are manual) but there is no denying the mid-range shove of the 530d once you are on the move. The benefit is that if you are feeling lazy, the 530d has performance in every gear, whereas to get the 530i to really shift, you must change down a few gears, when it really will shift.
530d can often feel a bit.. lacking off the mark compared to the 530i.
But then I do 5k miles a year in my 530i and care little about things like MPG and everything about big the grin on my face is when driving it.
Can anyone tell me how to adjust the clock on a Ford Ka please?
TN Read more
A signal is sent thro' RDS to set the clock; the radio usually needs to be on a RDS station for at least three minutes for it to correct.Most RDS radios have a time display function tho' you may need to read the instructions to get them to display it.
Filling up today at the pumps (helping to increase BP's profits once more), looked up and saw a guy sitting in his car outside the shop, quite happily puffing away on a fag and casually flicking the ash to the ground.
Got me thinking:
(a.) How often do other Backroomers see such a thing?
(b.) Was it as dangerous as I thought - o.k. the ash might cool quickly by the time it hits the ground, but the ground was still covered from the elements - so any excess fuel wouldn't be washed away as quickly as if it wasn't??
Why didn't I say anything to him? Well, he had the build of Geoff Capes (what a guy!) and I am allergic to pain. Read more
I was filling up at Tesco when someone popped out of the shop and onto the forecourt for a smoke, an unintended consequence of the smoking ban.
I have a 2003 1.6 auto C3 with climate control.
I cannot switch the fan off!
Before, if I pressed the MINUS button on the fan control until the shaded bits of the fan disappeared the fan would stop. Now it just keeps going at the same rate, even when I press the PLUS button [all blades of fan go dark-normal]
If I press the AIR-RECYCLING button the fan increases speed, BUT I think this is another fan cutting in [my guess!]
Any ideas please?
Please ask if you would like more information.
SLT Read more
Hi,
I am new to this forum as my C3 hasn't had any problems 'til now. Unlike aswasawas my heater fan does not come on, although the display shows it as on.
Would this be the same cause do you think ie the elecronic fan speed controller, as I have checked that the fuse is OK. Or is there anything else I could try before resorting to the Citroen garage and a large bill!
Thanks for your time.
Tubluv
Problems with my Saxo 1.4 furio
Basically i got in my car one morning to start the car & the immobiliser light kept flashing (coil light) when i turned the key and the engine wont start.
Garages wont touch my car as they said the immobiliser problems lays within my ECU as they come standard with immobilisers, although i have a toad alarm.
Took the car down to Citroen and they charged me £40 to diagnose the car. They told me the codes for the ECU, CDI unit and the key fob all match up n they suspect the problems lies within the toad alarm. They then tried charging me £300 quid to look at the wires on the car.
I now have no idea where i lie with this problem. Citroen are telling me it MIGHT be the alarm and the garages are tellin me its within the ECU.
Can anyone plz help me coz its costing me a lot of money at the min and its takin up a lot of my time towing the car bak and forth.
Is there anyway at all i can bypass the immobiliser as i have an alarm anyway? If not has anyone else got any ideas?
Read more
I think my saxo has the same problem, i've had a look online but can't seem to find where i can get the reader coil assembly from can anyone help, website address, phone number anything?
Thanks in advance
My Suzuki IGNIS 1.5 Sport is 3 1/2 years old (18,000 mls) and was last serviced 8 months ago by a Suzuki dealer. It has done about 5,000 miles in the last 8 months.
As I am very satisfied with it (very reliable and drives extremely well), I intend to keep it another 3 years then will part-ex it (it will not be worth much in 3 yrs time but never mind).
1) Does it need an oil change now? (HJ often advocates an oil change every 6 mths after the 1st year, am I right?). If so, would the filter need changing?
2) The oil level at the moment is between low and full (I have never added any oil in the engine, has never needed it between services). Does it need a top up?
3) I do not know what sort of oil they put in last time in March when they serviced it. I have some Shell Helix Ultra 5W-30 Fully synthetic at home, can I use that if it needs a top up?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Read more
OK, thanks a lot for the info.
Bizarrely, I checked the oil an hour ago (engine cold) and it was up to full (2 wks ago it was between the two marks -engine was cold as well).
Browse
.jpg)
.*********
just borrowed a test lamp and it connected to plugs and to ground, turn ignition....no light on test lamp
15 secs of cranking later engine fires up....test lamp comes on. stays on for around a minute then goes out, this bit sounds about right.....but why are they not coming straight on? if there turning off after a minute of engine running does that mean relay is ok? is it the same relay that turns them on?
help would be very helpfull
p.s my battery drains if left for 2 days, connected maybe?
gary