October 2007
My sons Passat o/s rear door is deadlocked shut & won't unlock.
If you pull the lever from inside, the locking pin comes up but even while pulling the lever you can't open the door. As soon as you let go of the lever the pin goes back flush with the door trim.
I've managed to remove the door card & all the bolts from the metal door frame that hold the window mechanism.
Acording to the Haynes manual, the door lock motor wires are black/grey & black/blue on the multi connector. These test open circuit so looks like the locking motor is dead.
Does anyone know how you can release the lock so it can be changed ? Read more
Hi,
Today I turned the engine off on my 307 1.4 and went to turn it on 5 minutes later,on the computer the message "anti pollution fault" came on,the engine felt very lumpy and has also lost its power,its an 05 and done 43000 kms,its up to date with its service with the last one being at 40000 kms,can anyone advice me,is this major.pricewise. Read more
Hello, I've got exactly the same problem. I've got a 2.0 petrol 307cc 05 plate. I drove from Norfolk to medway, approx 2 hours, anti pollution fault came on and when the revs go below 2000, they won't go above 1500 and goes into a "limp" mode. Had it plugged in with peugeot planet and it came up map sensor, replaced it and it was still the same. Husband came home and changed the "O" rings around all the injectors and now it's fine :-). It is the second time I've had to replace the "O" rings in a few months. I had bought some from a local garage as Peugeot charge £54.05!!!!! for 4x of the rings. They're like plastic tap washers!!! Obviously something's wrong and ruining the washers but until I find out what that is, I'll keep changing them as and when
I recently bought a 03 plate Golf TDI Match from the local car auction . Ex lease car 70,000 miles great condition , full service etc. After a few days use we noticed the clutch was dragging making gear selection a little stiff and reverse was a definate crunch. Looking at the service history it had a new clutch fitted 6 months previous. Having contacted the local VW dealer they said take the car in it may be covered under warranty. The car was booked in clutch stripped. Phone call "Needs a flywheel sir, and clutch, all in £760" . Because its the flywheel no warranty cover. Has anyone else been suckered in by the main agent before. After all a clutch only lasting 6 months and less than 10,000 miles. The mechanic said they always fit a new flywheel with a new cluth -Dual Mass- £380, ouch. I used to be in the car game and have changed many clutches but never a flywheel, a new way to get money from customers i think. Wont entertain the VW franchises again. Read more
>>Don't suppose they could have used a balance shaft instead?
Not really - balancer shafts are used to counteract unbalanced forces and moments of the reciprocating parts of the engine. They reduce the amount of bouncing and twisting of the engine (twisting at right angles to the crank; i.e. crank nose up, flywheel end down, etc, as opposed to twisting along the axis of the crank.).
The DMF is reducing the variations in torque and twisting that are passed from the crank into the driveline - i.e., twisting that is lined up with the crank axis. This twisting is both passed into the driveline, and is also reacted via the engine mountings, and hence felt in the car via two routes.
Number_Cruncher
Hello
The subject says it all.
I am unsure what oil the 1.4tdci engine requires.
Does anyone know the correct specification.
--
(I am not a mechanic)
Martin Winters Read more
Hello
Thankyou for fixing this confusion.
I was always under the impression that diesel engines required different oil to petrol engines. This must be changing.
The last diesel car i had was a Ford Granada 2.3 D
Iam still looking at the new mondeo tdci even though i have just purchased a newer mondeo.
--
(iam not a mechanic)
Martin Winters
Hi all,
Cross posted from Tech matters.
I've had my V70 since nearly new, always serviced at main dealers. Typically when the service light comes on (every 12, 000 miles) I've called the dealer and arranged a conveinent time. This means my services have typically been over the service interval miles (I would have done 13k miles by the time the service is done etc).
So my last service was the 84k service done at 90,500 miles.
This is a Diesal D5 163Bhp 2002 model engine.
I am now 102,500 and the service light is on, I called the dealer and was told the 96k service requires a cambelt change, and they couldn't fit in me in for a couple of weeks.
I queried why I hadn't been told about the cambelt, and why it wasn't done at the last service which was only 5k miles before the replacement mileage.
But as I've done about 7k over the mileage the cambelt should have been changed at I have been recommended not to drive the car unless required, which is a bit of a problem as I was planning on going away this weekend, and putting another 500 miles on it.
The car is 5 years old, and I'd be happy to go away except for this cambelt and Volvo telling me not to drive it. I asked if they could inspect the belt for wear etc, but they said doing that would be just as much work as replacing it.
So how much leeway is there in the recommended change interval for the cambelt?
Does it help if the car has a auto box?
Should I drive the car for the next few days?
Should I go away at the weekend and be 8k miles over the recommended change for the belt?
Durelli
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Workshop book time may be 1.5-2.0 hours but I've seen it done on many occasions in about an hour. £600 is absurd if that is for the cambelt alone - if it includes the service it's not so bad. The parts cost about £120 from Eurocarparts and, even if you have to pay for 2 hours labour it shouldn't cost more than £200-£250 all in.
If that really is what your local dealer is charging I'd get them to just do the service and get somebody else to do the cambelt.
I known the classic badged mercedes are the poverty level models but the elegance and avant garde seem much the same to me. Anyone know the difference? Read more
My dad's CLK is Avantgarde, absolutely love it, I wouldn't refuse to have an Elegance, but I think Avantgarde would always win for me.
Blue
Just taken delivery of my new Mondeo but was disappointed to discover that the fuel flap does not have a locking mechanism. A simple push to open, and with no filler cap to remove its easy to fill up, but, with the right size tube inserted the tank is also open to any other abuse. In the quest for innovation I guess this minor item was overlooked. But I would be interested to know of a modification can be made or added to lock the flap? Read more
The "Debowser " device is much more likely to be used an lorries with large amounts of fuel than on cars with a couple of gallons.Also most lorries have direct access to their tanks-most modern cars have the tank under the back seat and a convoluted pipe to it.
Does anyone know of a cheap alternative to fix the problem as citroen want £500 for new filter and oil
s Read more
Hi, if you have problem with DPF, FAP or other symbols, dont worry. I`m removing that filter and installing a chipbox which send information to FAP computer. Also you dont need to worry about changing FAP filters and filling EOLYS on the future. Car with that system was checked on MOT, and exhaust emission was accepted. Chipbox with installing and resetting cost 300£. Installing takes about 4 hours. So, up to you ;)
Hi. I have a 2000 (X) 1.7 dti Astra and have had a running problem for a few weeks. The problem seems to arise after or during high speed runs, ie above 70mph. OK.... I know I shouldnt be doing it but its my licence and Ive never been caught speeding in 30 yrs. During the high speed run the engine management light comes on, the engine seems to stumble/miss and looses power slightly. After lifting off the throttle and then letting the engine have an easy time of it, the light goes out and it goes back to normal. The engines done 229,000 miles, uses no oil, doesnt rattle, has enough power and is serviced regularly. The fault codes were read and didnt show anything up as obviously the problem dissapears at slow speed. All filters, oil changed 1 week ago and its still there.......anyone with any ideas please.
engine and year inserted Read more
Hi,
Did you fix your car & what part did you replace ?
Cheers james
Ps. I have the same problem with my vehicle.
Fault is heater resistor. exspensive part But can fix diy cheap.
Remove top part of dash ( 2 screw either side under speaker covers) once removed remove heater duct from n/s just above heater box
have a look at 3lib.ukonline.co.uk/scenic/trouble.html
here you will see the part and how to remove the resistor pack.
This is a fairly common fault and is down to a faulty resistor pack next to the fan motor. The resistor pack is relatively cheap, at £50 or so. Replacing the pack isn't trivial, although reader Barney Owsnett managed a home-made repair for next to no money at all. Barney:"Firstly, take out the pollen filter (if fitted) then get upside down in the passenger footwell and look up into the air chamber. You will see the resistor pack, but you won't have much of a chance carrying out the repair. Too get to the little beastie, I had to take off the top of the dash, as per the Haynes Manuel. Once that's out of the way, you will seen the left hand air vent tube, it's got a thin sponge cover. This has to be pulled from the centre console air ducting and from the left hand air vent. It does come off, it just needs a good 'yank'. Underneath this trunking, you will then see the top of the resistor pack and you can now undo the little grub screw that holds the resistor pack onto the air box. Once this is undone you can lift the resistor pack out and undo the electrical connections, 4 in total, with one underneath the sponge cover below the dash. The biggest of the 3 connections ia a bit of a funny set up, as you will see a red ribbed 'tab' at one end. This simply pulls away from the main body and as it does so, it releases the connection. The fuse is easily identified, as it's the only one there, simply cut off its 'legs' as close to the fuse as posible, and bend them up at right angles. Using a 5 amp 'Choc Block' connector, with the plastic cut off, screw one of them (2 small screws) onto each leg. Now take a new Thermal Fuse and bend its legs at right angles, you'll probably need to trim them down a bit, and screw the legs into the empty choc block connector. Once you have replaced the thermal fuse, it all goes back together in reverse order. Give yourself a big pat on the back as it's only cost you a few pence. The fuses are available over the counter at Maplins. Read the thermal fuse rating from the side of the old fuse before you throw it away, mine was 192c, thats the temperature it blows at. A nice cheap repair."
Informative, but who asked the question ??
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what size fuse did you use. i cant see any thing on mine i imagine there the same
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Many many thanks for that reply and link to vwaudio furums which I have now joined.
Advice there is very thorough-dont know if im skilled enough to attempt it though!!...