June 2007
Having recently bought a 56 Astra 1.6 SXI I was wondering what the juddering was when setting off and crawling uphill in low gear. My previous 2001 1.8 SXI never gave me any problems and I always enjoyed driving it so I didn't do too much reviewing of the new model, assuming it could only be even better. My wife bought a new model Astra auto last year and is very pleased with it.
This juddering is not just an annoying niggle - it can be a real problem pulling out into traffic when all your concentration is diverted to a possible stall. Unfortunately it's intermittent, mostly but not always worse when starting from cold. Also seems to be an alarming loss of power when pulling away uphill in 3rd gear when you expect at least a bit of whoomph to overtake the trucks.
Neither the dealer I bought it off nor the local Network Q can find a fault (just my luck it wont make a murmur for these people) but I've been driving for a long time and know when things are not right. I only realised the size of the problem when I Googled 'Astra juddering' and saw the number of complaints. Hence this entry to add my voice. If I'd seen this before I would have thought twice about buying this car.
I have raised a case on the Vauxhall website and await a response. Read more
I am interested in buying a new Honda Jazz but have read that since Honda switched production to China the quality of the finish has plummeted, with leaks, rattles, creaks and general poor finishing. Can anyone comment on this please - is it truth or rumour? Is production now in China for all Jazz cars or can one specify where the car is to be made before buying? Read more
We've had the following Japanese brand cars which were made in the UK:
1994 Honda Concerto - built by Rover at Longbridge, and quality checked by Honda at Swindon...
Hi,
can anyone help with a problem that has been baffling garages around here with my P reg MGF VVC?
I am by no means mechanically minded so forgive my potential incorrect use of terminology!
The problem first started a week ago when after driving at 70mph for 35 miles, I dropped down to 30mph. The temp gauge started to rise, got to just underhalf way then stopped. Here's the first problem, apparantly the normal level for the gauge is one bar under the halfway mark, yet mine normally sits one bar above the lowest bar! A couple of mninutes later steam started to come out of the coolant tank. My first thought was HGF, so I checked the oil, no milkyness. I called out the AA, they did their pressure and chemical tests and the car was fine. They towed me to a local garage who said it WAS HGF and the head had to be sent off for the tests - ie £££.
I was not convinced so I got the AA out again, they did the tests again, the car passed again and with them following me, I drove 35 miles to another garage I had been recommended. They diagniosed a leak in the pipe taking the coolant from the back to the radiator. This was apparantly causing a loss of coolant, hence the problems. They changed the pipe, problem solved!
But unfortunately it is not! The same thing has happaned twice again, I drive at speed, slow down, the temp gauge rises to just under half way, then steam comes out of the coolant tank!
It is as if whenever the car has been warmed up and isnt travelling at speed, itsl liable to heat up, however the temp gauge never gets above just under half way, so is it really the engine overheating, or there too much pressure in the 'system'? Does the coolant need bleeding?
This morning I arrived at work after doing a 70mph stretch (no problem), drop down to 30mph - gauge starts to rise, get sto just under halfway and stops at that level. I pulled up at work and I assume the fan kicked in as the gauge dropped. I had a look at the cooland tank and despite the cap being tighly screwed on, there was a slight hissing noise coming out of it.
On my journey home, I was driving mostly at speed and therefore the airflow I suspect keeps everything cool, I pulled up and left the engine running. Temp gauge went up to one below middle bar - which is not something to worry about I believe - and I left the car running idle for about 8-10 mins. The gauge never went above this level, but sure enough, despite new cap, after 8-10 mins the steam begin to rise out of the back of the car again!
I opened the boot and it sounded like there was a 'gurgling' noise coming from the left hand side of the engine (sorry cannot be more descriptive than that) and the coolant level in the tank started to rise to above its normal 'cold' level. It was bubbling away.
I have changed the coolant cap so it cannot be that.
Turning the heater on and off seems to make now difference.
Does anyone know what is going on!!!
Read more
Yep I agree with motman
These are often misunderstood, I have done so many headgaskets on these I have lost count but never had to do the same one twice, but always used new bolts,proper head set, head skim, new belts & water pipes & stat evry time,bit expensive but then reliability proved I was right.
I scored on doing these because so many garages wouldn't touch them or would only fit a new engine!
Had one freelander & one 75 which had to have new engines due to owner driving them too far with no water but 100% sucess rate on HG changes
I have a BMW E46 2003, 318 M Sport Convertible. When I start the engine from cold it idles at about 1000 RPM, a few minutes later when it has warmed up slightly the revs drop to around 650-700RPM which I think is normal behaviour.
However, once it drops to 650-700RPM and before the temperature guage has reached it's normal operating temperature I have serious power issues, if i'm at junctions I need to over rev the engine and ensure the engine is already revving high enough before engaging the clutch. (The clutch is only going to put up with that for so long). If I don't over rev it before engaging the clutch the car almost stalls, I can only stop it from stalling by dis-engaging the clutch, revving it up and engaging it again. Very dangerous as when I leave work I need to pull out onto a very busy road.
Once the car has fully warmed up the problem goes away and I have normal power.
BMW main dealer has said there are no fault codes so could I please go away and be quiet, usual story while the cars still under warranty.
Any idea's gratefully received!!! Read more
Hi, it's me again. So, after a long summer and a bit of winter my step-daughter says that the problem has gone!
She gave the engine a dose of Wynn's petrol addative to clear the tubes and, especially, no longer uses Supermarket petrol.
Has anyone else found that giving up the supermarket petrol has had any effect?
I've noticed recently that you can now get Tesco Value Engine Oil.
Does anyone know what this stuff actually is? It comes in just one variant - 20w/50, and costs about £2 for a litre. Other than that, it doesn't say anything about what it is. I'd assume its mineral, and as there's no API rating at all it must be pretty poor.
All it says is "suitable for older 4 stroke petrol engines". How old are they talking? 90s? 80s? 60s?
Anyway, there's no way i'm putting it in my engine. It's great for lubricating chainsaw blades though! Read more
if you put engine oil in a chainsaw to lube the chain, as soon as the chain turns to go around the bar sproket the oil will fly off. Proper chain saw oil is really sticky and clings to the chain instead of oiling your trouser leg.
Does anybody have good or bad experience of this brand?
Widely available in France, apparently marketed as a premium brand. UK prices seem relatively high, but is it real quality or exploitation of a previous (good?) brand name.
--
pmh (was peter)
Read more
I won;t edit that - that is possibly the best joke this site has seen in many a year !
I have a vdo cdr 500 in a Zafira, which plays some cds perfectly and some it cannot read at all and shows error on the screen. This is not intermittent, the non reading disks never play, whilst the working ones always play. these are all bought pre recorded, and are in good condition. The player will not even play a cleaning disc. You can hear an unusual humming sound just before the word ERROR comes up. Any ideas greatly appreciated.
Haystack.
Read more
Thanks for the tip!!
This seems completely daft, but the symptoms fit perfectly. I will have a cd copying session and see what happens.
Haystack.
Hello,
I have a 97 P Reg Renault Megane. The speedo all of a sudden stopped working, its electronic.
I had a good look around the engine compartment around the Gear box and noticed a broken sensor which I suspect is the speedo sensor..
www.brownjl.co.uk/speedo/
Can anyone confirm this please??
I don't think these sensors are too expensive to buy but can anyone give me any advice on fitting one? Does the old one just unscrew or pull out!?! and the new one goes in its place or is there parts internal to the gear box that need replacing??
Cheers for the Help
James
Slight subject line change for clarity and easier searching - link made clickable to avoid that cut and paste malarkey - PU Read more
Hi
Sorry should have said it goes out the other way lol. Did you line it up? should see where the pin goes in. A bit of oil around the rubber seal should help it go in easy.
Regards,
Merlin
Having read the many post on the tales & woes of diesel I can understand how some are disilutioned. I do however wonder how many people have made the transition from petrol to diesel without any real understanding or knoledge of a diesel engine. I have run loads of CRI vehicles including the infamous 2.0tdci to very high milage without any problems at all. I have never had a turbo or head or injector or EGR valev & have nothing but praise for the reliability. However I double my oil changes from new with carefull running in for 3000 miles with a very gradual increase in revs, when starting from cold I allow to tick over for 30 seconds before I move & I drive gently without turbo boost untill the temp gauge is out the blue, I don't change down to overtake I use the torque very rarely going over 2500 rpm, mostly 1600-2250, I always use a major brand of fuel ( & not supermarket ) I use fuel line cleaner every 3000 miles ,Always allow the engine a slowing down period after a hard run & allow to idle for at least minute before I switch off. I cover huge milage & tow a 1500 kg caravan all over europe for the last 12 years with no problem on reliabilty!.
I have however had clients take me out in there diesels under what they would call normal driving & cringe at what they do to an engine! do they understand that diesel components are so much heavier in an engine that the stresses are much higher
I wonder If any research has been carried out into this
Regards Doc Read more
Always amazes me how everyone on the BR is an "expert"
Especially when we are talking about things like CR fuel pumps, which pump the same amount of fuel, to the same pressure whatever load you apply from the throttle. All that happens at high load is a little more fuel is injected, and a little less is returned to the tank. There's nothing a car owner/driver can do to bed the fuel pump in! If the fuel pump doesn't bed in, it's either a design problem, a material quality problem, or a part tolerance problem - it certainly isn't the fault of the driver!
Number_Cruncher
Hi - I hope someone can help.
My 2001 Matiz 800 started displaying a engine management system fault light recently. After struggling to find anywhere in the immediate vicinity that could run a diagnostic test, I ended up at a nice Chevrolet dealership who did a complimentary diagnostic, and came up with a faulty Exhaust Gas Recirculator valve. They have now contacted me with a parts and labour quote of £239!
A previous thread here (it was at www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=i&...9 but seems to have disappeared since yesterday) suggested the EGR valve is a) not particularly expensive and b) quite quick to fit. Disregarding for the moment, if that is the case, why I'm being quoted the earth to fix this fault, I was wondering how do-able it would be to source the part and fit it myself (or get my friendly local mechanic to do so?).
Alternatively (and bearing in mind that the car appears to be running fine at the moment with the fault), is it an option just blithely to ignore the fault, and keep running the car?
Thanks in advance for any advice given.
{Try this one. - PU}
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=39039&...f
Read more
Hi well, as DD correctly said you are not alone.Not an astra owner but own an 04 corsa sxi which had the same problem,as I reported in earlier posts.
After months of wrangling with my dealer,who couldn't find a fault,I gave up with them and wrote to vauxhall.
This may not apply to your astra,but the letter I got back contained the following"To overcome the problem vehicles with F13 tranmission and Z10XE and Z12XE engine have an increased clutch size (190mm to 200mm)"
I was advised to return to the dealer,showed them the letter.and hey presto,the clutch was changed within a week!
My advice to you is, if its still under warranty keep at them,they know a problem exists!
Jim