June 2007

JamesB10

My 1.6 MkIV Golf starts perfectly when cold but is very difficult to start when warm. After a run it needs to be left about half an hour or more before it starts easily again. Once started when warm it idles smoothly and drives normally. I guess it may be a sensor that needs replacing but not sure which one to replace first. It's done 130,000 miles doesn't use oil, doesn't stall and is otherwise reliable. Any ideas of what I should try welcomed.
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Simon

Glad you got it sorted, may I recommend that you try your local GSF for parts next time you need any. They will probably be a good bit cheaper than the VW main dealer and I would be surprised if they couldn't supply you with an identical part.

Kuang

I was just reading HJs column online and came across a post referring to the The Sale and Supply of Goods to Consumers Regulations 2002. This effectively states that used car dealer are legally obliged to provide a six month warranty, and would need to prove that any fault arising within that period didn't exist at the time of sale.

I was completely unaware that this regulation existed and, judging by the adverts I'm coming across on AT, so are most used car dealers. It seems that almost all of them make a point of specifying a three month warranty, which is surely illegal?

I'm just about to buy another car and as I have little cash to play with I can't afford to make a bad mistake (as much as I adore Alfas... ;), and knowledge of this regulation changes things significantly. I get the feeling that querying this before making a purchase would result in being shown the quickest way to the exit, but if I accepted a car after being told that the warranty was three months would this weaken my case in the event of a problem? Read more

Kuang

Cheers for the links:

It seems that the first one does indeed reference the precise act HJ drew attention to and implies that six months is the required legal minimum warranty. It'd be interesting to see how any given dealer would respond to questions on this matter.

Dynamic Dave


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Altea Ego

You just have to join up the two lines for the complete address
------------------------------
TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >

CricketyJimin

Can anyone outline the egr and wastegate circuit from the two electrovalves on the bulkhead for me (on a 2003 HDi 110)?

One of them (I think the left/offside) is making a chattering/pinging noise when the engine is turned off, lasts about a minute, but can be stopped by repeatedly pressing the brake pedal. It also chatters away to itself whilst driving but I'm not familiar with where the pipes go or how the braking circuit is involved.

Is this likely to be the valve itself or bunged up pipes? Can't find much info on it so I guess it's not all that common a problem.

Ta! Read more

CricketyJimin

Well, this has me stumped, especially since it is such an apparently simple system.

Tried a new solenoid valve and it still makes the noise. It drives alright (and the engine light doesn't come on) so I assume the wastegate and solenoid to be functioning correctly under load.

I'll have to ignore it for the time being!

Ta!

xzibit

Got home from work, and decided to wash my car.

After I washed it, I took it down the road, and when turning back into my road, from the main road, I was braking from about 80/90 leptons (not excessively hard) and thought, the brakes felt a little wierd.

Coming along my road, and tried them from about 40, and they were crap. Tried them again from 40, pressed as hard as I could, and there was no way that they could have caused the ABS to kick in. They were rubbish.

The brakes are still quite sharp from 10mph or less though. The pedal was going right to the floor when I first got back. It seems slightly better now, but it's not hard, very spongy. You can here a hiss from the brake pedal when pushed, but I thinks thats normal. Think it's done it in every car that I've owned.

Checked the brake fluid, and yes there's some in there. And it's red and clean.

The rear discs are fine, and I put new rear pads in about 5/6 weeks ago. I checked the front brakes, plenty of pads left on both sides, and the discs look ok, apart from the inside edge of the drivers side seems very ridged from the outside in?!?!

So, has anyone got any suggestions? Can't see anything wrong apart from the inside of the offside discs, but surely that won't be the cause?
The car doesn't pull to one side at all, brakes straight, the only way I can describe them, are a mk1 clio I used to drive, they were absolute pink fluffy dice. It's like that. They stop you, but not very well. Read more

L'escargot

>> Brake fluid was red-about 30 yr. ago!
>>
Only Girling drum brake fluid.. Girling disc-brake fluid was green.


It looks like brake fluid is or has been all sorts of colours. tinyurl.com/39bfzq
--
L\'escargot.
caroline

I have a 1.2 yr 2000 fiat punto and whenever i stop at traffic lights the temp light comes on. I only have a light and not a monitor (ie like the speed meter). the light then goes of after i have been driving continuously for a period of time. I was wondering if anyone can give me advice as what to do about the light. is it serious or is it just a technical fault with the wiring and therefore not important. any help will be of use. thank you x Read more

greatspirit

check cooling fan comes on when car is stationary (take care tho'); however impending head gasket failure is most likely cause

therob1984

Hi Guys,

I really hope somone can help me.

I have a Focus 1.6Zetec (Black) on a 01' plate, 80k miles.

Driving around town its a really nice, acceptable drive (For what it is) but when I drive at between 55-60-70+ MPH It sounds like the car is doing 95-100MPH!, Kind of like a revvy, vibrating droney noise.

It *appears* to be coming from the front, left (possibly becuase im driving all the time so thats where I visualise the noise).

I have been told that it may be the "air intake, box/filter" but i can't picture this making this kind of noise.

People have been in the back and when i point out the noise they say "sounds like its coming from back here"

1: Anyone else had this issue/noise? Simular? What was it? Did you fix it?
2: I have not yet been to get the wheels balanced, but this seems like a too easy fix to me?
3. Rear wheel barings, these have been tightened/greased recently (5months ago)
4. Road noise? I apreciate there may be an element of road noise My Tires are Goodyears (Que debate on tyres :P)

Any Sugestions welcomed!

THANK YOU SO MUCH IN ADVANCE! Read more

therob1984

Changed the wheel barings as they were shot,

STILL MAKES A pink fluffy dice NOISE!....

Air noise?

{expletive deleted. Next time I'll delete the whole post. See
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=33415 for further clarification - DD}


Greg R

Does anyone own this motorcycle? I have found that the gears are quite heavy compared to my other motorbike - is this normal for the deauville or is it a wearing out clutch?

Thanks
Greg Read more

Gregory II

I have looked in the manual, and I am guessing the problem is going to be internal. What components from experience makes it hard to engage neutral in a motorbike gearbox. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Greg

KenC

Can anyone suggest an online website where I can find the outline to make up a headlamp beam deflector(s) for a VW Golf Mk4 - for driving in France.
Unlike certain other manufacturers there is no template in the handbook.
I know all I need is some black tape in the right place. Read more

jc2

Most projector headlamps have a lever to control the beam.Halogen headlights have been fitted to most cars since the 80's and halogen bulbs are available to fit to older lights.I think you mean gas discharge lights.I don't know about other makes but Ford workshop manuals(genuine ones) normally have a page showing what part of the headlight to cover-not always where you would expect.

sinbad

The water is 'boiling' in one place near the coolant bottle. It is not circulating throughout the system. The 'Stop check coolant level' light is flashing on the computer display.

It has been running fine until i was getting on a motorway 2 days ago i noticed the temp guage was nearly on red and i could hear steaming noises coming from the coolant bottle cap so i pulled into services and allowed it to cool down and then filled it up with water. As i filled it completely i noticed a small leak underneath where water was dripping.

I drove home slowly and took to mechanic the next day who informed me that he thought it was the head gasket as the cap had a creamy residue but he also said it could be the thermostat or the water pump.

How should one approach this problem? Read more

fed up whats wrong

Sorry have put in genuine vw thermostat aswell