June 2007

Question Ford ka clutch
reno-man

I recently bought a Ford ka collection . Unfortunatly the clutch seems to "slip" slightly. is it possible to adjust this type of clutch .. or as it to be replaced Read more

DP

should last far longer than that- at least 100K


It should, but if it was owned by someone like the "mature" lady I watched in the local Waitrose car park the other day, 40k is good going.

I've never seen smoke coming off clutch plates when reversing out of a space before.... I reckon she had 4,000 RPM on easily, and the car wasn't even moving at walking pace. Poor thing.

Cheers
DP
milkyjoe

whats the best way of getting a close as possible match for spraying a car with spray paint, such as that sold at halfords, i imagine cars have some sort of colour code stamped somewhere, i dont mean to spray the whole car but to just go over scuffs and scratches in general..... thanks Read more

Peter D

Have an old hair dryer handy and pre warm the panel before spraying and if metalic waft lighly with warm air so avoid metalic flake sag it sets the flake before sagging. I actully use a dryer with solid colours as well. Regards Peter

matt79

Hi all,
My Mondeo mk3 1.8 zetec (51 plate, 74k miles) is driving me mad with a tinkling / clinking noise coming from the engine. The noise is sometimes heard for a second when starting the engine, and also when pulling away or changing up a gear, most noticable in 1st & 2nd gears between 1000 - 2000 revs. It doesnt seem to make the noise when slowing down, only on acceleration.
To me it it sounds like something is loose, or a clutch problem?
Any help or advice appreciated.
Thanks
Matt Read more

bikerider

Sounds as though the butterflies in the inlet manifold may be coming loose. i would get checked soon if i were you otherwise you could be looking at a new engine if one of the butterflies decides to make its way into the engine.

Simon (Anne\'s Other Half)

Hi
I drive a GTM K3 Rossa and the seatbelts are tight to say the least. I have just found out the wife is expecting, are the use of seatbelt extensions legal? Is it worth buying one? I am reluctant to change the belts as the car is getting a major overhaul next summer and these will be done then.
Any advice will be welcome.
Thanks Read more

henry k

>>......are the use of seatbelt extensions legal?
It would appear that they are but...

Perhaps Securon, Winchmore Hill, Amersham, HP7 0NZ, ENGLAND could advise you.
( They seem to be reluctant to supply a phone number / email on their site)
www.securon.co.uk/fitting/extras/seat_belts_extend...m

Shows two types and they appear to be to approved
"Comprises of parts as used in the manufacture of Seat Belts to European Standards and is manufactured in an ISO 9001: 2000 Quality controlled environment."

They also state ( in case you are not aware)
"Webbing should pass across bone structure i.e. the lap or centre of the shoulder.
The Buckle should lie just on or below the hip.
There should be no slack in the webbing when the Seat Belt is worn.
Lap and Diagonal Belts with retractors should have approx. 30cm of webbing on the reel when the wearer is in the normal sitting position."

www.safetybeltservices.com/extensions.htm
at Bedford tel 01234 330450
"Our range of seat belt extensions are designed to assist with the seat belt fitment where the belt is too tight, and to assist pregnant women...."

Prices vary a lot-
tinyurl.com/yvc7hu for a bolt it yourself type @ £5.95 = p&p
Bestbits.co.uk for a simple plug in extn at £17+ p & p
up to (on another site) an eye watering £102 reduced to £97.51

Securon prices are - 227 for a simple plug in Extender £ 25.88
& 228 Extender £ 25.88 (not the usual simple plug in extension)

yorkshire jewel

I drive a 2002 1.9 dci scenic with 41000 on clock with full service history.
7 weeks ago the turbo blow up with no warning light etc, as discribed by other drivers it there was no way to stop it, key out of ignition didnt stop managed to stall it but not before smoke/noise frightened my 2 young children and dog. Motorplan warranty premium plan refuse to pay as they say it is my fault I must have known there was a problem. Any one else suffered sudden turbo blow up. Local Renault garage where I bought the car last October are not helpful. I realise I have a fight on my hands what is the Yellow OTS any advice appreciated?????,

{Subject header given a less vague title, as per the sticky message at the top of the page - DD} Read more

Xileno {P}

Assuming no damage to the engine then you will need a new turbo, EGR valve, intercooler, associated pipework and modified oil feed pipes to the turbo. Anything less than this is not doing the job properly.

mfarrow

Hi all.

My Grandma has been complaining about her Fiesta. It apparantly idles quite high for the first few minutes or so when cold, and in that time the gear selection is difficult if not impossible. It will take some doing to find 1st, and is notchy into the other gears.

Took it for a spin, admittedly when warm, and found no problem with syncho on all gears, would sync into 1st from 3rd no problem at about 30mph. Clutch bite point is not high.

We're struggling to find the route of the problem. Is it to do with the high idling? Any other suggestions?

Thanks

--------------
Mike Farrow Read more

mfarrow

Managed to get a brand new clutch kit fitted in the end from supplying dealer - looks promising so far. Invoice includes lots of nuts and bolts which I'm sure they could have re-used.

Thanks again.

Aberdoc

Hi everyone. I'm a newbie to this forum. I've done a search on drivethedeal.com, which comes recommended by Honestjohn, but can't find any reports from people who have bought cars through them. I'm looking to do so in the next few weeks and I am aware they source cars from UK dealers. If there are problems with the car I presume my redress is with the dealer rather than drivethedeal and am slightly concerned about buying a car from many miles away and then being left with problems I have to turn to my local dealer to fix under warranty - and he is not likely to be keen to help!! Is there anyone out there who has bought a car through them, and particularly has anyone had any problems, and how were they dealt with?
Thanks in advance! Read more

Falkirk Bairn

What did you order?

What % did you get off the list price?

Ravenger

My 1 year old C-Max has started making a low grinding noise when steering left or right. You only really notice it when driving slowly, as it's not that loud. It's particually noticable when reversing off my driveway, because it's a slope, and I don't use much throttle to get off.

I've searched the net, and one possibility is low steering fluid, but the reservoir is buried deep within the engine, under the passenger side headlight, so I can't easily check.

Anyone encountered this problem before? The steering seems fine otherwise. I'm going to ring up the dealer on Monday, but would like to make sure it's a real problem first. Read more

grahamw

Hello Ravenger and fellow members of the forum.
I'm hoping you could help with a problem almost identical to that Ravenger has experianced with his C-max.
I have a 2005 Focus 1.6 petrol LX. It has covered 27000 and shortly after it's 25000 service, I noticed a grinding noise from the steering when turning at very low speeds such has entering and exiting my drive.
My local Ford dealer has inspected the car and informed that the top shock absorber rubber mountings need changing but the track rod ends are OK (I did mentioned the TSB regarding these)
Apparently the warranty does not cover suspension parts after 1 year but Ford will contribute 70% leaving me with a £66 bill. The parts are £24, the labour being 2.3 hours @ £85 per hour. The dealer has spoken to Ford technical and they are adament that this remedy will cure the problem. A couple of questions:
1) I'm told this play/wear will not affect handling etc, but the noise is annoying.
2) The car drives very well, even wear on the front tyres with 3-4 mm of tread left, if the work is done does anyone think the geometry will be affected, the garage say that the tracking will not be disterbed. I am not confident that this will be the case!
3) Ravenger, I seem to remember that your car had the track rod ends replaced and then other bushes, were these by any chance the top shock absorber mounts?
Many thanks for reading.

danyosan

I travel 90 miles a day travelling to work and back. What would be the best car for me to get to cope with this high mileage. It would have to be a diesel as well.

Read more

danyosan

The thing is though. I eventually got to work, checked the battery and it was fine. For some reason, on both accounts. the car has started first time, I've driven for around 30 miles, stalled it, and the battery is dead. Every single other time the car has started first time with no problems.

I can't figure it out, for whatever reason, I had to be driving off the battery both these times. Once I got the kick start, the battery started charging fine again.

colinmbrown

Having recently read in the paper and Auto Express about some chap who devised a way to drive petrol cars more economically, by accelerating flat out upto 2000 rpm in each gear then changing up, I was wondering what the most economical way to drive my diesel car (1.5dci Megane)? The article in Auto Express stated that because of the differences in the fuel injection systems between petrol and diesel, his method didn't work with diesel engines. Read more

DP

Would concur with the advice here, just adding that it's worth taking advantage of the complete lack of engine braking on a diesel. When driving at a constant speed, and particularly if on a gentle downhill stretch, you can often back off the gas quite a lot without any drop in speed. If you have an onboard computer, this can add 30-40 mpg to your instant economy readout.

Cheers
DP