If it's metallic, don't bother.
If it's solid, get the correct colour and you should be OK. I did an invisible repair on a Zinnobber Red BMW years ago.
Prepare the area so it is flat and clean, then spray in light even coats, don't worry too much about getting a gloss finish, but avoid runs, then leave for a week or so to harden, then use wet and dry 1000-1200 grade paper on a block and plenty of soapy water and lightly massage it all over the area until it is a flat silk finish, and then use some cutting polish to bring back the gloss/shine.
Remember, aerosol paint is very thin, so you may need about 10 coats, there is so much thinner in it.
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Agree with Ashok, but spraying can take some practice (try practicing on a bit of cardboard or
any old junk metal flat bits you have lying around).
Don't do it outside unless it is calm or you are sheltered from the wind, or you'll find fine mist on bumpers, windows etc. Even when it is calm the overspray can travel several feet, so make sure
other areas are covered up.
If you spray too close or with too much in one go, you get runs/ripples etc. As Ashok says light even coats are critical.
Also always spray the can onto a bit of newspaper first to clear any deposits from the nozzle.
Wipe the nozzle after use.
You may need to follow the paint with a clear laquer to get a perfect match, otherwise the sprayed area may not look as glossy as the rest of the bodywork.
You can test for colour match on painted areas of the car not normally noticeable, such as bottom of sills, engine bay corners etc.
Anything that has been rubbed down to bare metal will need primer as well. For bumper repairs I have found UV cure premixed filler works much better on plastic than normal 2 component epoxy based fillers.
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Have an old hair dryer handy and pre warm the panel before spraying and if metalic waft lighly with warm air so avoid metalic flake sag it sets the flake before sagging. I actully use a dryer with solid colours as well. Regards Peter
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