June 2007
My 1 year old C-Max has started making a low grinding noise when steering left or right. You only really notice it when driving slowly, as it's not that loud. It's particually noticable when reversing off my driveway, because it's a slope, and I don't use much throttle to get off.
I've searched the net, and one possibility is low steering fluid, but the reservoir is buried deep within the engine, under the passenger side headlight, so I can't easily check.
Anyone encountered this problem before? The steering seems fine otherwise. I'm going to ring up the dealer on Monday, but would like to make sure it's a real problem first. Read more
I travel 90 miles a day travelling to work and back. What would be the best car for me to get to cope with this high mileage. It would have to be a diesel as well.
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The thing is though. I eventually got to work, checked the battery and it was fine. For some reason, on both accounts. the car has started first time, I've driven for around 30 miles, stalled it, and the battery is dead. Every single other time the car has started first time with no problems.
I can't figure it out, for whatever reason, I had to be driving off the battery both these times. Once I got the kick start, the battery started charging fine again.
Having recently read in the paper and Auto Express about some chap who devised a way to drive petrol cars more economically, by accelerating flat out upto 2000 rpm in each gear then changing up, I was wondering what the most economical way to drive my diesel car (1.5dci Megane)? The article in Auto Express stated that because of the differences in the fuel injection systems between petrol and diesel, his method didn't work with diesel engines. Read more
Would concur with the advice here, just adding that it's worth taking advantage of the complete lack of engine braking on a diesel. When driving at a constant speed, and particularly if on a gentle downhill stretch, you can often back off the gas quite a lot without any drop in speed. If you have an onboard computer, this can add 30-40 mpg to your instant economy readout.
Cheers
DP
Can anyone help me please? I have an expired 2.2 turbo diesel. The engine type is 4HW, it is in a Fiat Ulssees. I have been trying to track down a suitable used replacement. I have found a 2.2 HDi turbo from a 2003 Peugeot 406. The engine type is 4hx. Is there anyone who can tell me the difference if any between the 2 types? I have had no joy from Peugeot dealers or customer care.
{shouting amended - DD} Read more
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Anyway easy go easy go as they say or is it easy come easy go, well whatever it is I am pink fluffy diced off with it, the car has got voice control amongst its host of useless gadgets, I asked it to "spontaneously combust" today but it just kept saying "sorry" "sorry" so I guess it is felling apologetic too.
will let you know how we get on and am sure I will be seeking further advice by Monday.
Thanks for everything so far, and speak to you soon.
2000 MK4 Golf SDI 4DR Hatchback - non central locking
The drivers door does not lock or open using the key!
When I put the key into the barrel/keyhole it turns half way like it should but nothing happens.
The door can only be opened and locked from the inside! - Such a pain!!!!!!!
I dont know if something in the links inside the door has come loose or something?
Has this happened to anyone else or can any of you guys give me any guidence on this problem?
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Cannot comment and your problem directly because my MKIV Golf and previous model Passat both had lock issues from new had remote locking which I used.
Both had an issue where you'd lock the car and the passenger door did not actually lock. If you then deadlocked the door that worked. Fix was new locks. The cars were 1999 and 2000 respectively. There are known locking issues with VW cars of this age I am afraid.
Since I never tried the key do not know if it would lock or unlock but remote locking would fail almost 100% of the time.
Have now got completely new engine and turbo etc in my Fiat Ulysees, thanks for all the comments on my previous post (help with peugeot dealer)
Anyway, the car will apparently be returned to us next Tuesday, so how should we drive it. I have read about letting it warm up and then simmer down, but how should this new engine be treated? when should I have the oil changed? should I take it on a 3000 mile round trip one week after getting it back? If so should I stop regularly or is it better to just let it run?
Definately never want to go through another major failure on an HDi again.
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yep I would 2nd that. there is this myth that thrashing a diesel from day one makes it last forever,but at the end of the day its down to luck & a little sympathy. As I have already posted I am sympathetic towards a diesel but don't potter, I respect the mass's rotatingunder the huge stresses involved bearing in mind that most diesels will produce a massive amount more torque at 2000rpm than a petrol equivelent would do at 5000rpm. I have had more petrol cars with iether valve failure or headgasket failure or suffered camshaft wear than I have ever had with a diesel.
I've been told that I have to renew it all at a cost of £129. Had a quick look and the back box has gone but it looks like one long unit including a box at the outlet manifold and a cat.
Is that right? Read more
Got same problem with SWMBO X reg Yaris - it has perforation holes in pipe just before clamp to back box and this is a single pipe system from manifold back - that includes Cat and middle box - Toyota want £850 - major exhaust company want £270 so it's booked in to stainless steel exhaust maker and they are going to cut pipe off just behind middle box and bend a new bit up to match old pipe for £60/90 - Why no one makes sectional bits with slide joints and clamps I don't know. Probably no profit in it.
Help!! on coming home tonight my indicators continued to flash even though my indicator arm was back in the nuetral position. have checked and all my indicator bulbs are working,so its not a short circuit. i am indicating right and i cannot change it,so as soon as the engine is turned on i am indicating right. any ideas?? Read more
depending on the year a new indicator stalk at £35-40 may fix the problem. Its easy to replace.
Anyone advise how to change a broken door mirror glass(electric & heated) on a 04 corsa..Vauxhall parts dept. state price of £42..seems high i presume because of the heating element.
Options/advice welcomed.
Jim
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Just been to a car tax office and got served in 9 minutes.
Baring in mind this was in leeds ,the 24 hour city, i was amazed, as last time it took 2 hours 22 minutes of waiting on the steps for my number to be called.
10/10 for all the people that make my job easier by doing their taxing online.
I just hope dvla arent thinking of closing these offices and making us trail down swansea see Read more
I ended up in Swansea on my bike odyssey in March, I got hideously lost, which had two effects, I bought a SatNav package for the bike and I found the DVLA building. So did "see" it. On a separate note never had any problems with my visits to my LVLO office no lengthy queues and only one "computer says no" moment in trying to register my Landie.
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Hello Ravenger and fellow members of the forum.
I'm hoping you could help with a problem almost identical to that Ravenger has experianced with his C-max.
I have a 2005 Focus 1.6 petrol LX. It has covered 27000 and shortly after it's 25000 service, I noticed a grinding noise from the steering when turning at very low speeds such has entering and exiting my drive.
My local Ford dealer has inspected the car and informed that the top shock absorber rubber mountings need changing but the track rod ends are OK (I did mentioned the TSB regarding these)
Apparently the warranty does not cover suspension parts after 1 year but Ford will contribute 70% leaving me with a £66 bill. The parts are £24, the labour being 2.3 hours @ £85 per hour. The dealer has spoken to Ford technical and they are adament that this remedy will cure the problem. A couple of questions:
1) I'm told this play/wear will not affect handling etc, but the noise is annoying.
2) The car drives very well, even wear on the front tyres with 3-4 mm of tread left, if the work is done does anyone think the geometry will be affected, the garage say that the tracking will not be disterbed. I am not confident that this will be the case!
3) Ravenger, I seem to remember that your car had the track rod ends replaced and then other bushes, were these by any chance the top shock absorber mounts?
Many thanks for reading.