June 2007

Petel

Hello.
I am seeking a spare part for a trolley jack, Master Mechanic TJ4000. These were made in China for " Master Mechanic " based in Ipswich. Can anyone please advise who these people are and if they are still in existance. If not, any suggestions as to where parts could be obtained would be welcome.

Seeking a new pressure seal, item 77 on the parts list or a complete piston assy, parts 73 to 77 on their parts list.
Thank you. Read more

Chris M

Any opinions on Dayco products?

My local motor factor stocks them and they don't usually sell rubbish. Read more

John F

Not quite sure what your last post meant John F if I'm honest?

The post was in two parts, typed in what I hoped was comprehensible English. The first part was a question. The second part was a link to what I thought might be an informative and helpful article for anyone who, like me, has one of the millions of PSA 1.2 puretech engines in their car. ...

therob1984

Can someone tell me the best way to change the Sparks for my 1.6 Zetec Focus?


Subject line tweaked - PU

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CharlieFarlie

Does anyone have the Torque settings fot these plugs ??

...

Snakey

Does anyone know whether these engines (1.5 Dci and 1.9Dci) are belt or chain, and the change interval if they are a belt?

I'm considering one of these secondhand (03-04 plate) and would like to have all the facts at hand! Read more

Collos25

They want doing well before 5 years they start to crack and harden at around 3 years.£500 is cuccoo land takes around 2 hours depending on how many cups of tea the mechanic has.

trevs

hi can someone please tell me how to adjust my sons handbrake on a L reg peugeot 306 1600cc many thanks trev Read more

hm

Trev's,

Richard is also correct that there is adjustment at the rear of the H.Brake lever itself to compensate for cable stretch.

You need to fully remove the centre consol to gain access....I have not owned a pug for about 2/3 yrs now soooo bear with me.

1. Apply the H.Brake, then pull off the H.brake lever hand (pull it forward towards the gear stick)
2. unclip the gearstick gaiter then undo the two 10mm nuts there.
3. Pop out the rear ash tray (there should be two phillips screws in there too)
4. now you can lift/slide the centre console out forwards/up.
5. at the back of the H.Brake lever you will see the two cable coming in to a single point, this is attached to the threaded bar and a 13mm nut...you can also adjust her here too (you will need a deep 13mm socket)
Hope this helps....

Wish I never got rid of my pug 306 DT, had that car for almost 6 yrs, since then I have had 5 different ones in 2 years.....

kijhub

Wrongly or rightly, as it may well have some bearing on how sales people deal with you,, anyone in the new car sales trade (mass market or the lesser makes)care to share roughly how they earn their money?
Is it largely based on per car sold or on month end targets?
Do the smaller manufacturers pressure their dealer principles(& thus their sales people) a lot less than the big makes?

just curious to get some insight into how things work behind the scenes

cheers Read more

Pugugly {P}

"estate agent when buying a house?"

Too right, cheeky monkey of the agent that was selling PU's latest home to us offered to handle the sale of our old house, offered discount legal fees (!) despite the fact that it was a private sale ! I then asked him to disclose his commission on our current property and he scuttled off in his Lexus !

BobG

My wife's kangoo which is just out of warranty is showing the following symptoms:
intermittent loss of power - usually when the motor is hot and at about 2000rpm and put under load
a refusal to rev above about 2500rpm by use of the throttle pedal
it will rev faster if thrown into a low gear and sometimes this puts things right
it always sorts itself out if I switch off and restart.
Any ideas out there? Is it a sensor, a valve or the "fly by wire" throttle potentiometer/ Must I take it to a main dealer to have it checked?
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PhilW

"The technician was surprised to see this problem on a 1.5 - more common on the 1.9."

That was exactly the story my daughter got - EGR fault very rare on 1.5DCi - especially on a car like my daughter's which does a 50 mile commute up and then back down the M11 each day.
Problem was that EGR fault code registered occasionally and then after new one had been in 2 days car broke down again. Then RAC man said he saw a brief flicker of throttle fault when test driving it - it only showed for a fraction of a second when he happened to be looking at screen on his mobile computery thingy.
He said way to test it was to drive it back from Cambridge to London, if power loss occurred , switch off ignition (careful!!! only to first click on switch - don't engage steering lock!!!!) and switch back on immediately. I drove it back and power loss occurred 6 times, each time I did a quick click off and on, potentiometer reset itself each time and I carried on (entertaining when overtaking on M11!!). He said this meant it was potentiometer not EGR.
No probs in month or so since - daughter has done commute each day and we have had no phone calls to say "stuck in outside lane of M11 again, but don't worry!" which was fairly frequent and worrying previously!
Good luck
--
Phil

Rocket

Being mechanically illiterate I need to ask how to replace my squibb. Can I just replace the centre part in the middle of the steering wheel or do I need to replace the steering wheel aswell?

Many thanks.
R. Read more

normd2

aren't airbags always labeled then? I thought they had to be to avoid accidently obstructing them?

L'escargot

At one time (when buying a new car) you could ask a dealer if you could look through their list of available registration numbers and choose one. Has the latest numbering system put paid to this?
--
L\'escargot. Read more

Steve Pearce

When I was buying a car a couple of years ago the dealer pointed out one of the registrations available ended with "5USY" (susie) which he thought was unusal to have just been generally released. I have no close connections with anyone named Susie but took it anyway.

oikodomophobia

Hi Folks

I have a 2001 Renault LaGuna 1.9DCi

i recently started to suffer from dips in power, driving a long i would press the accelerator and there would be no power after a few seconds the engine managment light would come on, i would stop the car, restart and everything would be ok for a while. so last week i took the car to a Renault Main dealer, he diagnosed the EGR valve and No 3 Injector needed replacing £636.36 Parts and Labour, at the weekend i took the car for a run to Newcastle low and behold the fault raises it's ugly head again so i stop the car and it goes away,

I returned the car to the main dealer this morning just been on the phone to them and they told me it needs further new parts, there is a rip in the intercooler wall. a further £357.00

I beleive that the rip in the intercooler wall is either the original fault or has been caused when the EGR valve has been replaced. [I believe there is a tool that can clean The EGR Valve ( they coke up supposedly)]

Do you think that sounds reasonable or am i clutching at straws, i think the mechanich/technician may has been a little negligent on this occasion.

my car is going to be repaired but the dealership manager is not back until Thursday. i dont want to pay for these repairs until i have spoken to him. so am going to leave the car there until then.

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Fernando P

The EGR valve (often) needs cleaning ~ 18 mths, especially if short runs are the norm. Symptoms are slow pull away, eg from a roundabout and a good puff of black smoke is emitted when doing so, as well as poor fuel consumption.