Open bonnet, remove leads cover plate. First unplug each of the leads off the top of each spark plug, they'll need a good pull to get them off so use as many fingers as you can underneath the rubber leads. Make sure you note which leads come out of which hole in the cylinder head. You'll need a long spark plug tool to go down into the head to allow the plugs to be loosened.
Take out one spark plug at a time and replace it with a new one. Rather than drop the plug into the hole place the new plug into the spark plug lead by applying only a little pressure and then lower the lead and plug into the hole, when the plug reaches the bottom of the hole shake the lead and the plug will loosen and be placed at the bottom of the hole and can then be tightened with the long plug tool, don't overtighten the plug. Then repeat the same operation for each of the other plugs, and finally put the rubber plug leads onto the tops of the spark plugs, and lastly double check you have everything back in place, replace leads cover plate, remove all bits and bobs from the engine bay area, close bonnet, start the engine to test everything works ok.
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:P Thank you Mike Torque a very comprehensive! :)
Im looking forward too it now. Just wanted to make sure there wasnt a "special" method.
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Open bonnet remove leads cover plate. First unplug each of the leads off the top of each spark plug they'll need a good pull to get them off
I would add :-
Twist the rubber insulators back and forth prior to pulling them upwards, this breaks the seal and makes removal much easier. Also, make sure you only grab hold of the rubber part, do not pull on the HT lead itself.
Try to use the same make/type of Spark Plug as is currently fitted, if you are not going to renew the HT leads as well. This is because the rubber moulds itself to the shape of the spark plug's ceramic insulator, providing an essential airtight seal. If you fit a non matching spark plug, (different makers provide different diameter ceramic insulators) there will very likely be an air path that the 30k plus spark voltage will prefer than arcing the 1.3mm electrode gap, giving misfire, particularly at idle, and particularly on cylinders 3 & 4 (I'd be interested if anyone can say why cyls 3&4!)
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All good advice.
You can do this job with a good spark plug socket (with rubber retaining ring inside), and a long extension. Place the new plug in the socket and push it in until the socket holds it. Carefully and SLOWLY lower the socket down into the hole, keeping it as central as possible. When the plug contacts the cylinder head, keep the weight of the plug and gently move it around to feel when it seats in the hole. When you have it in the right place, gently tighten using finger pressure only until the plug seats properly. If it goes tight at any time during the tightening process, back it off immediately and try again.
Once you've gone as far as you can with finger pressure (which should be most of the way in), keep the socket and extension where they are, pop a torque wrench on the end of the extension and torque the plug down. Unclip the torque wrench, then pull the extension back up while moving it gently in a circular motion to loosen the rubber ring's grip on the plug and prevent the socket staying put.
In my experience, these are nowhere near as difficult as they are made out to be, assuming you exercise a little care and patience. It can be daunting because you can't really see what you're doing, but I found pulling a neighbouring lead off and shining a torch in the hole can give you a reference as to the angle the plug sits at, and how deep it is.
Take your time and you'll be fine.
Cheers
DP
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