April 2007

thomp1983

hi, could anyone tell me how to reset the service light on a 2002 renault megane scenic rx4 1.9dci? i tried the usual methods of hold down odometer button whilst turning ignition on, this just gives me oil flashing in the display and some underscores where i assume the mileage to next service should be, also tried holding in the button for the on board computer on the end of the stalk and this just brings up alot of symbols in the display and causes the needles on the clocks to go from minimum to full and back again until the ignition is switched off, although the service light does go out when doing this it reappears at next start up. reaon i ask is it's my sisters car and it wasn't reset when serviced at an independant garage about 3 months ago so i suspect she has no chance of them doing it now

cheers
chris Read more

thomp1983

damn right french electrics are a nuisance ive done a few but again can't remember the exact sequence. ill have another look next weekend only got 5 minutes the other day. i assume im right in that when the odometer button is held in and ignition turned on it should come up with the type of service and mielage to it? at the minute it's just oil _ _ _ _ _ _

chris

Dynamic Dave


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Read more

borasport20

Deepwith - I'm happy to ebay or freecycle anything, I love the idea of somebody finding use from something I no longer I have a use for (I have been known to come back from the tip with more than I went with) but on this occasion, it had to go
BUT
it gives another opportunity to plug www.freecycle.org - have you got something you want, or want to get rid of in your local postcode area for FREE - i.e. if its on offer you may have to collect it, if you want to get rid, you can't ask for money
and it is a matter of how you see things - when I took the washing machine to the tip, there was a bloke getting rid of a cot - he probably thought he was chucking a dead cot into the compactor amd doing a good recycling job - I saw a good board and an awful lot of good dowelling going to waste, but I don't have any use for dowelling at the moment... ;-)



--
Go on, get out of the car...
www.mikes-walks.co.uk

crazytaxi

Do you use a small amount of grease on wheel bolts to stop them from seizing on or do you think this can cause problems ? Read more

Hamsafar

I find a lot of it is through ignorance, they think the bolts take the weight of the car, whereas really the spigot in the middle goes into the hole in the wheel and this is the load-bearing part. The bolts just need to hold the wheel onto the spigot and not loosen.

Dirk

Hi,

I have a friend (seriously...) who has been involved in an accident, not their fault apparently (is it ever?)

Their car was a write off, and they have received a letter from the insurance company with an offer of cash for a replacement, and requesting all paperwork be sent to them.

At this point it has transpired that the MOT has expired before the accident.

(1) Can anyone confirm what the conseuquences of this are? My first reaction was "well, you're screwed, as you policy is now invalid."

(2) Will they pay out at all for a replacement now?

(3) If the other driver sues for loss or earnings/whiplash or whatever, will the driver now be liable, assuming no MOT=no insurance at all?

(4) What are the legal consequences? points/fine etc

(5) The accident happened on private property, does this have any effect? there was a low speed limit, obviously exceeded by the other driver, but I don't believe this is enforceable on private land

(6) If it is provable that it was the other drivers fault, does this affect the chances of a payout even with no MOT?

I've given them my views on this, but whats happened has happened, so I'm only really interested in advice that may assist them in what they can expect. I said they should invest in an hour with a solicitor as soon as possible

Thanks very much for any advice
D Read more

FotheringtonThomas

(3) If the other driver sues for loss or earnings/whiplash
or whatever, will the driver now be liable, assuming no MOT=no
insurance at all?


No MOT does not mean no payout, unless this is expressly stated in your schedule. If the vehicle is unroadworthy, then that's quite different.

(4) What are the legal consequences? points/fine etc


Not endorsable, maximum £1,000 (likely to be far less).

(5) The accident happened on private property, does this have
any effect? there was a low speed limit, obviously exceeded by
the other driver, but I don't believe this is enforceable on
private land


Is there public access to the land?

I've given them my views on this, but whats happened has
happened, so I'm only really interested in advice that may assist
them in what they can expect. I said they should invest
in an hour with a solicitor as soon as possible


You want to go the the library, and have a read of Stone's, you do.
MokkaMan

My 5 series Touring is now nearly six years old, but has done a low mileage. I am following the BMW service plan and obviously the car has been MOT'd and as part of this tyre tread has been checked and signed off. However obviously weathering must impact the life of the tyres. As the car is six years, how much longer should I keep them?

Any thoughts appreciated Read more

Ian (Cape Town)

Also, Caveat emptor when buying 'new' tyres. Check the dates - some of those 'specials' may just be specials because they are old stock which has been sitting on the shelves for 18 months or longer...

starcott

Corsa 1.2 1995
We have bought the above car with 15 inch Vauxhall alloys with 195/50 tyres. How can I find out the correct pressures for these tyres as there is no reference to alloys in the owners manual? Read more

L'escargot

Corsa 1.2 1995
We have bought the above car with 15 inch Vauxhall alloys
with 195/50 tyres. How can I find out the
correct pressures for these tyres as there is no reference
to alloys in the owners manual?


For a given wheel size, tyre size and car the pressure will be the same regardless of what material the wheel is made from. If you trust Kwik-fit, then this website might be of assistance. tinyurl.com/26nedq
--
L\'escargot.
cheddar

The local BP station is changing to Shell, I used to find Shell and Texaco diesel better than most though have mainly been using BP Ultimate for some while now due to the convenience of the local filling station.

Shell V-Power diesel is not nationally available though perhaps they will sell Shell Diesel Extra, which one is the equivilent of Ultimate these days? Perhaps I should go back to standard diesel + Millers?


Thanks. Read more

mazdaboy

I puuled up at a Shell this evening but baulked at paying over £1.00 a litre for the Diesel V Power stuff.

Can it really be cost effective paying the extra 6p a litre?

NiallOswald

Hi all,

New to the forum - apologies if I spare the introductions for now. I have a 2001 Focus 1.6 with 90k on the clock - got it just over a year ago with 79k. Price was possibly a bit on the steep side, but time was short and I got £250 for my worthless old VW Polo and a year's warranty.

Anyway, at Christmas I had the car serviced and the cambelt done at my local Ford garage. To cut a long story short, the new tensioner failed and they ended up replacing all the exhaust valves along with a few other bits and bobs. So far so good, car was running fine when I got it back.

Since Christmas, it's used 4.5 litres of oil - it would seem the piston rings are shot. Oil consumption didn't seem to be a problem beforehand, but there's no sign of damage to the pistons themselves. The car is currently in the garage with the head off - I've seen it myself, there's a lot of movement on the pistons.

I have been quoted £1500 (or, in other terms, half the value of the car on a good day) for a replacement 'short block' engine, including fitting and VAT by Ford, and a bit less (£1k-£1200) by an independent specialist (using a brand new Ford block). Apparently piston ring renewal is not an option.

My questions are as follows:

1. Is this a common occurence on this engine?
2. Is the price I've been quoted decent?
3. Would I be mad to spend that much on the car given what it's worth?
4. Is it worth considering a 2nd hand engine? Any ideas how much that would cost?
5. Would I be as well to trade-in/flog/scrap the car and get something different?

Really I'm looking for the cheapest overall solution, but don't want to throw money at something that won't last. The guy I spoke to at the independent said a 2nd-hand engine was more trouble than it was worth and would cost the best part of a new engine in the end.

The warranty company don't count it as a mechanical breakdown, so they won't pay.

Thanks for any advice,

Niall Read more

NiallOswald

Probably too late now but would like to have seen more
investigation from the compression figures, to see if it could be
tied down to rings or valves.


If it turns out to be valves I shall be asking for my money back, make no mistake!
I suspect valve problems if all pistons have the same movement
because the figures quoted seem ok on 2 cyinders!


Make that 3. I was expecting to see damage to the cylinder with the very low compression. The oil turned to black sludge very quickly - when I got the car it had been serviced 2k miles previously and the oil was still golden and clean. AFAIK the garage I bought it from didn't change the oil at the time of purchase and it stayed clean for some time.
daveweim

Hi Everyone,

We have an 03 (Oct reg) Mondeo estate TDCi 130 that is an ex-fleet car that we purchased from an independent trader (non local) last november. We are happy with the car and have had no problems. I have read on this forum however than an ECU update was available that boosted fuel economy and improved performance. I phoned my local Ford dealer to see if they could determine whether the update had been done based on the reg number but they said they couldn't. Is there any way of finding out whether this update has been done? The service record for the car doesn't mention anything about the upgrade.

Thanks in advance. Read more

daveweim

Hi All,

Many thanks for the advice. I will leave things as they are I think!!

SjB {P}

With SWMBO's 1995 306 Sedan on axles stands for it's annual service I took the opportunity to perform a pre-MOT check. Everything seems fine apart from noticeable play in the left hand front wheel assembly. The front right hand wheel assembly, which doesn't bear so much roundabout loading or clattering through potholes and kerbside water, is as sweet as a nut.

With the suspension unloaded, grasping the top and bottom of the roadwheel and performing an in-out rocking motion gives a very slight but noticeable "clonk". Repeating with hands at "quarter to three" gives exactly the same "clonk". The steering wheel was free to rotate so I don't think steering joints are at fault, confirmed by having an assistant rotate the steering wheel whilst I held the road wheel; no play. Likewise I don't think it's the wheel bearing as there is no bearing related noise when driving under any condition or when spinning the roadwheel.

A penny to a pound the fabled inner rear bush on the front lower wishbone has worn.

If it is a wishbone bush, I know that Peugeot only sell a complete assembly of lower wishbone and bushes but motor factors sell the bushes separately. If I purchase the latter, is it an easy job to press the old bushes out and the new ones in, please?

For info, whilst it's all apart I'll replace the balljoint too for the sake of the few quid it will cost.

I think I have deduced the only component that could cause what I describe, but if you have 306 experience and think otherwise, please comment!

Cheers. Read more

gsb

For another price comparison, I have often used Neat Autos for parts for my 406, they always seem to be reasonably priced good quality parts. www.parts4peugeot.com/acatalog/index.html