April 2007

Dulwich Estate

A chip caused by a motorway speed stone has now grown into an L shaped crack about 25cm long. I will be getting a new windscreen (via insurance claim) and remember some talk a while ago about what is desirable or not e.g. original equipment or any brand, insurance tied fitter or independent and so on. I've spent longer than I want to on the forum search and couldn't find the threads.

Do you knowledgable people have any advice?

I've already delayed the replacment for a couple of months to make sure the job is done in the warm and I'll time it so that it's not raining either. An unrushed, unhassled fitter must be a better fitter. Read more

oldgit

Interestingly or even, strangely, certain people, especially those on a VW forum that I frequent (for obvious reasons) say that non OEM replacement windscreens are inferior in so many respects to the originals in that they scratch more easily, are thinner and create more wind noise and can muck up your auto wiper mechanism's rain sensor functioning etc.

David Horn

Is there an easy way to lubricate the clutch cable? It's approaching 90,000 miles now and "feels" like it needs some grease putting on. Also, it's developed a squeak that's driving me insane. ;-) Car is a 1999 Xsara with the 1.9TD XUD engine, though I'd assume the clutch cable and fitting is identical across the range.

Cheers,

Dave. Read more

Spospe

I have a Transit (1999) and have lubricted the clutch cable by dropping gearbox oil down from where the cable attaches to the pedal (no dismantling at all) and it has worked a treat!

You do not need much oil, 4 - 5 good drops sliding down the inner cable from the pedal and the difference is quite noticable, all the 'gritty' noise went.

Perhaps you can do the same with the Xsara?

Brian Tryzers

Saab has recently been trumpeting Hirsch performance upgrades (i.e. ECU remaps) for new 9-5s, but it turns out that anything you can do to a new 9-5 can also be done to an old one, with full Saab and dealer support. This has set me thinking; key points go something like this:

* I really like Saabs - the 9-5 estate in particular - and Saab dealers, and would be very happy to renew my association with them.

* BUT I can't afford a new one and in any case, I'm not convinced - aesthetically or ergonomically - by the 2005 facelift.

* That rules out a diesel, because the 2.2 TiD engine is awful and the new 1.9 is only in the post-facelift model.

* Never mind, I can save some money and buy a petrol instead, but the 2.0t engine is short of oomph in such a big car - it struggles to maintain 50mph up my modest test hill even with only me and one small boy aboard.

* OK, I could seek out a 2.3t, but there aren't many about and I haven't even found one to test-drive yet.

So how would it be if I bought a (manual) 2.0t and gave it the Hirsch treatment? 150 bhp becomes 210 and torque is up to 320 Nm, which is only 20 short of my Volvo D5, and available from barely 2000 rpm to 4500. This suggests there'll be easy, relaxing power when I want it, and when I don't, it's still only a 2.0 engine and should be capable of the kind of early-to-mid-thirties mpg I got from my old 2.0 Saabs. No need for for an attention-seeking badge, let alone the cheesy Aero body kit, just a rather nice, fast, comfortable, discreet family wagon.

So where's the catch? Apart from the £900 or so to install the upgrade, am I letting myself in for a huge insurance premium, a car I can't sell, or what? My Volvo has more torque and doesn't shred front tyres, so I'm confident that will be OK, and the flat torque curve (there are some handy graphics on a dealer's website here: www.westernsaab.co.uk/htmls/range/hirsch_data9-5.p...p ) suggests it won't be an undrivable monster.

As you can probably tell, I'm rather taken with this idea - especially if it's Cosmic Blue and has those gorgeous three-thick, three-thin, six-spoke wheels. So does my picnic need piddling on, and if so, who's going to do it?

Much obliged,
WdB

}:---) Read more

adverse camber

certainly the new 95 has a lot more internal space than the old one did - I ruled the older ones out when I was looking for an estate for the same reason - children/child seats and legroom - doesnt seem to be a problem in the newer one. Although I have not driven it, only looked at it on his drive. He is very pleased with it. As a mechanic he drives and works on a lot of cars and says that the price premium for the bmw/merc/audi just isnt worth it.

Dads last car was a 900 bought new back in 1993 or something, If he keeps this one the same length of time then depreciation rates are pretty irrelevant.

I think the 1.9 is the alfa/fiat unit which seems to have a good reputation and is also very tunable (or so Im told) I think alfa offer it in 175bhp trim now.

hcm

I'm looking at getting a diesel 04 xsara picasso. In my price range there are both the 2.0 and the newer 1.6HDi.

At first glance the 1.6 seems the better choice as it has more bhp and better mpg. However HJ mentions a few problems with the engine: " 'Pressure gateway failure' has caused turbo failure on early 1.6 16v HDIs. Needs new valve and new turbo"

How much of a problem is this? What period is classed as early? Better to stick with the 2.0HDi?

Thanks for any suggestions.

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RichardW

Interestingly, I pulled the power & torqu curves for these engines from Superchips site the other day - my Dad is considering buying a C4 1.6 HDi. The engines have very different characters - I'm sure HJ has said the 1.6 is much more petrol like than previous diesel engines - and looking at the curves I can believe this. The power / torque builds steadily from low revs to a lower peak, and the top end drop off is not so sharp, with the engine revving out to almost 5.5k. This compares to the old 2.0 which has a much steeper torque / power curve, with the (much higher) torque falling off after peak, and the power falling away sharply above 4.5k rpm. Personally I'd go for the old 2.0 unit for the ability to drive around at 2k rpm on a wall of torque - but if you're more used to, and like, revving modern multi-valve engines, then the 1.6 is probably better. Horses for courses - drive them back to back to see which you prefer!
--
RichardW

Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....

Bill Payer

So daughter's month old Colt is proving a little difficult to get into first from rest, and the 1st to 2nd gear change can be a struggle. It's just the same after a month and 1000 miles as when new.

I remember that the gearchange in the (brand-new, 4 miles) car we test drove wasn't quite as slick as our Jazz, but it was more 'clunky' than 'baulky'.

What do other Colt drivers / owners think of their gearchange?


Otherwise she's very happy with the car - I can really feel the quality difference between it and the Jazz, but then it did cost £4000 less, so something has to give.
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Aprilia

Mitsubishi boxes are very difficult to get into first gear if the car is moving at all. I have yet to drive a Mitsubishi with a good synchro action. Its all down to the synchro design. The synchro's are small diameter and they use (IIRC) double-cone synchro's on first and second on most of their boxes. Another common fault on Mitsi gearboxes is progressive difficulty in getting reverse as the car ages, this is due to damage to the reverse synchro dogs (they use a reverse synchro, which is not that common). It will need quite a few miles on it before you experience that though.
In my experience gearshift can be improved by changing to a different gear oil. A syncho unit is effectively a small wet clutch, so gear oil frictional properties are critical and many modern lubricants are actually too 'slippery' to give good synchro action. I have a lot of experience with Mitsi gearboxes, in fact I have a Galant box in my workshop awaiting a reverse gear repair at the moment....

Kearney

Please save me from this nightmare! I bought my Peugeot 106 about 4 months ago and the keypad immobiliser was not working. The previous owner did not know the code for the keypad anyway.

On Sunday I had a new stereo fitted at Halfords and whilst this was being done, the Halfords chap realised that one of the fuses was blown. He offered to replace it and when he inserted the new fuse, the immobiliser came on.

As I don't know the code, the previous owner dont know the code and Halfords washing their hands of any wrongdoing, the car is now at a Peugeot dealer in Stevenage.

Got off the phone with them this morning and they informed me that they are unable to reset the keypad! They have no idea what to do. The guy told me the last resort is to replace the entire ECU at a cost of £900!!! Surely this must have happened before and there must be a sollution?

Please help!!

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bell boy

You are all missing the fact that the valet number ie default has been changed therefore the ecu is encoded with the number a previous owner has inputted.(therefore any record at dealer will be worthless)
A man with a multimeter will not crack this trust me, i spent a week a few years ago trying, when these cars were common as they could come cheap if the 1111 code wasnt available.
Bba may be able to unset it but the million dolla question is.....................................can they do it cheper than a breaker?..............i tink not
But am always reddy to be amazeled

David Horn

I have in my wallet a cheque from the university for an expense claim (£108 worth of van diesel). Unfortunately, they've written the correct amount in words but put £180 in the number box. It takes ages to get a cheque issued from the university and the office is only open at stupid times. Can I correct the amount to the lower (correct) figure myself or does it actually have to be done by them? Read more

FotheringtonThomas

The service charges bit was sent to me in a fee
quotation. "Thank you for asking us to quote for selling your
freehold property. Our fees will be £1 750 + VAT. Please
advise what service charges are payable in respect of the property.'


Pfffft! Get an online quote via www.reallymoving.com or similar.
nick62

I have the opportunity to have a new one of these, (when they arrive in a few weeks time) with the brand new 2.5 twin-cam diesel engine with a really good discount.

This "fully loaded" model has all the toys as standard (including leather, secure top, sat-nav, 18" wheels, etc.)

Can anyone with experience of this vehicle (good and bad) give me some feedback please?

My other option is a 150CDi Merc. Vito with a second row of seats, but I won't be getting as good a discount on this, (unless Mercedes are desperate to sell at cost for some reason).

What would you do? Is the Vito likely to be a lot more economical, (based on driving them in the same manner)? Read more

Pica

I was wondering that after the 30K miles in the Nissan does he prefer it compared to his previous L200?

artful dodger {P}

Just before Easter I bought a dinghy with a road trailer on ebay. My car did not have a tow bar, so I decided to fit one myself. Found a supplier on ebay at just a couple of pounds over £100 including relays and delivery. Checked the fitting manual online, seems simple enough and an estimated fitting time of 2 hours 10 minutes. Went ahead and purchased it, and was duly delivered. Checked the parts and everything seemed straight forward.

It is only when you start fitting it do you find 2 badly corroded bolts that have to be drilled out, the exhaust (even when dropped) always seems to be in the way, I kept dropping the nuts, I picked up the wrong tool, etc. Then you realise after 3 ½ hours you must be somewhere and have to dismantle everything to make the car driveable.

The following afternoon you think you can complete the job as the basic bits should fit quickly. So after another 4 hours I get the tow bar fitted and again I realise I should be out for my Mum's birthday meal. No time to start the electrics, but decide to skip the starter and order the main course by phone and arrive 25 minutes later as the rest are finishing their starters.

The following morning (Good Friday) I then had a 180 mile drive each way to collect the dinghy, so I planned to leave at 7am. But I still did not have the electrics fitted, so I left at 6.15 missing all the hold ups except where the A303 goes from dual carriageway to single lane by Stonehenge. Arriving a few miles from my destination I then start on the electrics, only to find that part of the fixing plates obstructs the removal of the interior plastic panels to pick up the electrics. Finally I wire in all the lights except right hand indicator as I did not have any spare cable for an extension (but the car indicator can still be seen over the dinghy). The only thing that went smoothly was testing the light board - everything worked first time (except the right indicator!).

The moral of this tale is that no manufacturer's claimed fitting time is to be believed - use a multiple of 3 or 4! Remember your hands will take a lot of knocks and become grime encrusted, plus a few face fulls of road dirt.

Would I do it again? Probably as I did learn a lot, as I had not fitted a tow bar before. Also I expect I could fit one in 6 hours now, not 9!

By the way the dinghy towed exceptionally well and I laughed at all those stuck in traffic jams using the route I had zoomed along a few hours earlier.


--
Roger
A fine is a tax for doing wrong. A tax is a fine for doing well.

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George Porge

Hey, you got there in the end ;o) We've all done jobs that take longer than the should in theory, having to make do with tools that are'nt really fit for the purpose.

;o)

warren321

I've recently bought a Toyota Celica with full service history from a main dealer with 55k miles. This is my first Celica but i am finding that the gearbox is a bit rough (notchy/grating a wee bit) especally when cold but I'm not sure if it's not just the way I'm driving it because matching the revs to the ratio takes a bit of getting used to. Do you think a gear oil change would make any difference here or is this an inherent fault with Celica's. By the way the car is great, I love it (except for the gearbox!). Read more

Aprilia

These are not the smoothest 'boxes at the best of times. Don't use a 75W-90 - its too thick. Go to Castrol SMX-S (75W-85) or Redline MTL, or even Amsoil "synchromesh" MTF (if you live in a cold area - do lots of winter morning driving). You will be surprised what a difference it makes.