April 2007
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I have noticed two separate Mondeo MK3 vehicles one on a 51 plate and the other on an 02 registration that have corrosion issues. The sill quite close to the front wheel on the nearside has started to corrode. On one example this was severe and it would be borderline with regards to an MOT pass. This corrosion does seem to be starting from the inside. Considering the Mondeo is supposed to be "electro galvanised" this does seem strange. I can confirm that it is NOT a bodged repair from accident damage on both vehicles as I have inspected both very closely. Has anyone else encountered similar problems? Read more
Pumas are the same. When my sister recently sold hers (X plate owned from new) she was horrified to see rust on a rear wheel arch, and leading edges of doors. there was some ominous bubbling on a sill as well, this from a car that was loved and cherished and had no accident damage repairs. Plenty of info on Pumapeople's website.
In basic english please!
When the 1.9 TDI PD engines came out on the mk4 golf for example, in the 110, 130,150 bhp version i thought they were amazing. I owned a mk4 150 for a short period of time and it was the best car I ever owned. (for the engine like).
I wanted a more up to date similar type of power car and got the "new" 2.0 TDI.
What's the big fuss about it? It's nice, but doesn't feel as powerful as the 1.9 150
So to me a setback?? Is it not ??
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My Mk5 105TDi PD is defininately much quicker than the MK4 110 (non-PD) that preceeded it. The MK5 is a big improvement over the MK4, imho. If I remember correctly, DieselCar (in the good old days before it changed) reckoned that the MK4 130 was a nicer drive than the 150, as the 150 had a larger turbo and suffered from more noticable turbo lag. Perhaps it's the delayed, but powerful, response from the engine room that gives you the impression that the 150 was quicker?
The MKV is a 16v and apparantly is happier to rev higher - I've no particular grumble with my 'old' 1.9 - it's less road noise that would give a better improvement to its refinement, I think.
Hi guys. I'd be grateful for a bit of help on this one. My girlfriend's corsa has started leaking oil, and my first thoughts were that she might have hit a raised man hole cover and cracked the sump. However, when I came to look at the car the sump was fine. I checked the oil level - normal - so I started the car and watched underneath for the drips to start.
It is leaking from what looks like a pressure sensor (immediately to the left of the oil level dipstick) I've looked through my Haynes manual and can't find any pictures or references to it. Any ideas of why oil should start to leak from here? When the engine is running it is dripping out pretty quickly, so it will be alright to drive to the garage 800 yrds up the road on Monday but not much further.
Any advice as to whether it is a fix I could do myself would be appreciated but I suspect it is a garage job.
Thanks and hope you can help Read more
Many thanks. There is a green plastic concertina'ed baffle (sorry for the mangled description) around the barrel of the sensor and the oil is leaking past this, despite the clip still fitting securely on the outside of the sensor fitting. I'll have another look but couldn't see the o ring.
A friend of mine is buying a new Toyota with cloth upholstery.
Because she sometimes carries a dog she has been offered an 'upholstery treatment' before delivery of the car. I think its 'scotchguard'or a name similar to this?
Is this treatment effective or a waste of money?
Any advice appreciated Read more
I'd suggest the best solution to the damp/hairy/grubby dog (or children) problem is to install all-over seat protectors such as used by the 4x4 fraterntity. They are said to be waterproof, so should keep hair, dirt and any "leakage" off the upholstery. Thick heavy mats of the floor should help with the carpets.
Is it worthwhile re-gassing my air conditioning with a recharge canister from Halfords? The car is a year 2000 model which I have just bought. I doubt that the air-con has been serviced in recent years. Do I need to spend out on a specialist service or do those canisters work?
Regards - Horridhenry. Read more
Thank you for your comments.
Regards - Horridhenry.
A chip caused by a motorway speed stone has now grown into an L shaped crack about 25cm long. I will be getting a new windscreen (via insurance claim) and remember some talk a while ago about what is desirable or not e.g. original equipment or any brand, insurance tied fitter or independent and so on. I've spent longer than I want to on the forum search and couldn't find the threads.
Do you knowledgable people have any advice?
I've already delayed the replacment for a couple of months to make sure the job is done in the warm and I'll time it so that it's not raining either. An unrushed, unhassled fitter must be a better fitter. Read more
Interestingly or even, strangely, certain people, especially those on a VW forum that I frequent (for obvious reasons) say that non OEM replacement windscreens are inferior in so many respects to the originals in that they scratch more easily, are thinner and create more wind noise and can muck up your auto wiper mechanism's rain sensor functioning etc.
Is there an easy way to lubricate the clutch cable? It's approaching 90,000 miles now and "feels" like it needs some grease putting on. Also, it's developed a squeak that's driving me insane. ;-) Car is a 1999 Xsara with the 1.9TD XUD engine, though I'd assume the clutch cable and fitting is identical across the range.
Cheers,
Dave. Read more
I have a Transit (1999) and have lubricted the clutch cable by dropping gearbox oil down from where the cable attaches to the pedal (no dismantling at all) and it has worked a treat!
You do not need much oil, 4 - 5 good drops sliding down the inner cable from the pedal and the difference is quite noticable, all the 'gritty' noise went.
Perhaps you can do the same with the Xsara?
Saab has recently been trumpeting Hirsch performance upgrades (i.e. ECU remaps) for new 9-5s, but it turns out that anything you can do to a new 9-5 can also be done to an old one, with full Saab and dealer support. This has set me thinking; key points go something like this:
* I really like Saabs - the 9-5 estate in particular - and Saab dealers, and would be very happy to renew my association with them.
* BUT I can't afford a new one and in any case, I'm not convinced - aesthetically or ergonomically - by the 2005 facelift.
* That rules out a diesel, because the 2.2 TiD engine is awful and the new 1.9 is only in the post-facelift model.
* Never mind, I can save some money and buy a petrol instead, but the 2.0t engine is short of oomph in such a big car - it struggles to maintain 50mph up my modest test hill even with only me and one small boy aboard.
* OK, I could seek out a 2.3t, but there aren't many about and I haven't even found one to test-drive yet.
So how would it be if I bought a (manual) 2.0t and gave it the Hirsch treatment? 150 bhp becomes 210 and torque is up to 320 Nm, which is only 20 short of my Volvo D5, and available from barely 2000 rpm to 4500. This suggests there'll be easy, relaxing power when I want it, and when I don't, it's still only a 2.0 engine and should be capable of the kind of early-to-mid-thirties mpg I got from my old 2.0 Saabs. No need for for an attention-seeking badge, let alone the cheesy Aero body kit, just a rather nice, fast, comfortable, discreet family wagon.
So where's the catch? Apart from the £900 or so to install the upgrade, am I letting myself in for a huge insurance premium, a car I can't sell, or what? My Volvo has more torque and doesn't shred front tyres, so I'm confident that will be OK, and the flat torque curve (there are some handy graphics on a dealer's website here: www.westernsaab.co.uk/htmls/range/hirsch_data9-5.p...p ) suggests it won't be an undrivable monster.
As you can probably tell, I'm rather taken with this idea - especially if it's Cosmic Blue and has those gorgeous three-thick, three-thin, six-spoke wheels. So does my picnic need piddling on, and if so, who's going to do it?
Much obliged,
WdB
}:---) Read more
certainly the new 95 has a lot more internal space than the old one did - I ruled the older ones out when I was looking for an estate for the same reason - children/child seats and legroom - doesnt seem to be a problem in the newer one. Although I have not driven it, only looked at it on his drive. He is very pleased with it. As a mechanic he drives and works on a lot of cars and says that the price premium for the bmw/merc/audi just isnt worth it.
Dads last car was a 900 bought new back in 1993 or something, If he keeps this one the same length of time then depreciation rates are pretty irrelevant.
I think the 1.9 is the alfa/fiat unit which seems to have a good reputation and is also very tunable (or so Im told) I think alfa offer it in 175bhp trim now.
I'm looking at getting a diesel 04 xsara picasso. In my price range there are both the 2.0 and the newer 1.6HDi.
At first glance the 1.6 seems the better choice as it has more bhp and better mpg. However HJ mentions a few problems with the engine: " 'Pressure gateway failure' has caused turbo failure on early 1.6 16v HDIs. Needs new valve and new turbo"
How much of a problem is this? What period is classed as early? Better to stick with the 2.0HDi?
Thanks for any suggestions.
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Interestingly, I pulled the power & torqu curves for these engines from Superchips site the other day - my Dad is considering buying a C4 1.6 HDi. The engines have very different characters - I'm sure HJ has said the 1.6 is much more petrol like than previous diesel engines - and looking at the curves I can believe this. The power / torque builds steadily from low revs to a lower peak, and the top end drop off is not so sharp, with the engine revving out to almost 5.5k. This compares to the old 2.0 which has a much steeper torque / power curve, with the (much higher) torque falling off after peak, and the power falling away sharply above 4.5k rpm. Personally I'd go for the old 2.0 unit for the ability to drive around at 2k rpm on a wall of torque - but if you're more used to, and like, revving modern multi-valve engines, then the 1.6 is probably better. Horses for courses - drive them back to back to see which you prefer!
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RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
Browse
Its knows if one is plugged in, there are a series of the pins shorted that can provide an indication the screen is there, but not if its turned on or any feedback to wake a PC up on an event. I mean what external events are there on a screen? it just does what the pc tells it to do
(touch screen excepted of course - whole new ball game)
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