April 2007
***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 126 *****
In this thread you may ask any computer related question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
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No politics,
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
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There is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 125. Previous Volumes will not be deleted.
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Hi all,
I was hit a month ago on tghe passenger side,it did do quite a bit of damage ,so send it for repair.They had to take the dashboard off in order to repair it,so now that the car is repaired the radio does not work. I checked on the radio booklet ,but could not get the Radio Code.
I was quoted £28.00 to get the code from the Dagenham Fords,which I think its quite a lot of money.
I have used 9 attempts to open the radio and have failed ,I have one more attempt to open it,if it failes the radio will lock.
Have you guys out there got any idea how to get the code!
Thanking you all in advance! Read more
i got a free download tool to do ford radios off this site a few weeks ago
look in the history section with the words
radio code
Hi guys.
I don't know if anyone knows anything about Grey-imports and/or emissions diagostics can help with this !
My 1995 Celica GT Convertible has just failed its MOT on the emissions test ....
The car is Jap-spec, and has the 175Bhp GT engine (but NOT a turbo) (I think the engine code is 3S-GE)
I shall give you a run down of the saga I have been on today.
Failed this morning as CO levels way too high (7.8% CO) and lambda value also way out.
MOT tester suggested taking to a diagnostic place. They were too busy to run a full check, but ran a fault-code reader onit, which revealed just the coolant sensor returning "out of range values". The sensor apparently had dirty contacts, so was cleaned and WD-40'd and seemed to be working OK after this, and the fault was reset.
The diagnostic chap then ran it on his emission-tester, but the CO was still very high and lambda still way out.
He suggested it was probably the lambda sensor, especially as he had replaced quite a few toyota ones in recent times.
AS he wasn't able to give any time, I then found a local independent Toyota/Lexus specialist, who checked the fault codes, and said there were none at all registered.
They suggested that as Jap spec cars are designed for 100RON petrol, and the tank was empty, I try refilling with Shell V - Power, give it a good caning on the dual-carriageway, and take it back to be restested, as the engines don't like our 95RON and they don't run as well.
I did this, and on re-test it still failed, but this time the Lambda reading was "very good" but the CO was still at 1.1% at fast idle (Limit is 0.3%)
I went back to the specialist and they suggested that the catalyst and lambda sensor might both be working sub-optimaly and combining to give the high CO reading. Also may have wrong spark-plugs fitted.
They said running on 95 RON petrol over here can cause these problems, and these cars should be run on 97 Super-unleaded to stop this happening.
It is booked in to have both Lambda sensor and catalyst replaced........
I've owned the car approx 1year, it was imported early 2006 as far as I am aware, and was purchased with a new MOT. It has done 60,000 miles approx (90,000km),and I have only done about 2000miles (3000km) in the last 12months - it has spent a lot of time standing, but has been kept under cover, so not out in the wet.
The air-filter is very new, the oil quite clean, and it runs very well (goes like poo {edit by DD, next time I delete all of the post} off the proverbial)
I would like to know :
(A) IS the diagnosis of lambda/catalyst correct, or could it be just one of these components, or someting else ?
(B) Can using 95RON petrol really cause these problems, - I could understand it may give sub-optimal performance, but actual damage to sensors/catalysts ?
(C) Will using 97 super-unleaded in future stop this happening ? I really don't want this hassle in future years .
(D) will intermittent and low use cause/contribute to this problem too ?
MAny thanks in advance for some help with this potentially expensive problem ! Read more
Standard Zironia type is in effect a galvanic cell which uses oxygen as the "electrolyte". Difference in O2 conc. either side of the sensor (exhaust and atmosphere) causes a voltage to be developed.
The less common Titania type - titanium dioxide becomes semiconducting at high temp and its conductivity varies with oxygen concentration (oxygen permeating the sensor and acting as the charge-carrier). It also keeps your teeth white!
Over the weekend I discovered that Comma produce oil which meets VW 505.01 spec, the local moto factor sells it at £21.39 PLUS Vat for 4.5 litres.
I am wondering
a) has anyone has any views on This Comma oil
b) is this the cheapest PD oil available in the UK ?
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how come it's taken Halfords the thick end of 10 years to produce their own PD oil which
should save the VAG punter a packet over the long run!!
easy answeer to that is : change in ownership and management in those 10 years.
www.halfordscompany.com/hal/ah/history/
halfords used to be part of a big group which included boots-the-chemist.
obviously such a diverse group does not have motorists needs as the main focus.
then with the takeover by a private equity group, it went through a radical change in attitude - both of staff and management.
....Two more changes of ownership followed with the Ward White Group purchasing the business in 1984 and then the acquisition of the Group by The Boots Company in 1989. ...
In August 2002, Halfords was acquired by CVC Capital Partners from The Boots Company.
....
In June 2004, Halfords was floated on the London Stock Exchange as a FTSE top 250 company.
Halfords employs approx. 9000 people supporting 402 stores in the UK and the Republic of Ireland.
hi, could anyone tell me how to reset the service light on a 2002 renault megane scenic rx4 1.9dci? i tried the usual methods of hold down odometer button whilst turning ignition on, this just gives me oil flashing in the display and some underscores where i assume the mileage to next service should be, also tried holding in the button for the on board computer on the end of the stalk and this just brings up alot of symbols in the display and causes the needles on the clocks to go from minimum to full and back again until the ignition is switched off, although the service light does go out when doing this it reappears at next start up. reaon i ask is it's my sisters car and it wasn't reset when serviced at an independant garage about 3 months ago so i suspect she has no chance of them doing it now
cheers
chris Read more
damn right french electrics are a nuisance ive done a few but again can't remember the exact sequence. ill have another look next weekend only got 5 minutes the other day. i assume im right in that when the odometer button is held in and ignition turned on it should come up with the type of service and mielage to it? at the minute it's just oil _ _ _ _ _ _
chris
***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 179 *****
In this thread you may ask any question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
It does not need to be motoring related. In fact, in this thread it should not be.
No Questions About PCs. Please use the current "computer Related Questions" thread instead.
No politics
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which we think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details
www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )
Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
However, as has been said a couple of times, there is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 178. Previous Volumes will not be deleted,
A list of previous volumes can be found here:-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=18847
PLEASE NOTE:
When posting a NEW question, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it's own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.
Read more
Deepwith - I'm happy to ebay or freecycle anything, I love the idea of somebody finding use from something I no longer I have a use for (I have been known to come back from the tip with more than I went with) but on this occasion, it had to go
BUT
it gives another opportunity to plug www.freecycle.org - have you got something you want, or want to get rid of in your local postcode area for FREE - i.e. if its on offer you may have to collect it, if you want to get rid, you can't ask for money
and it is a matter of how you see things - when I took the washing machine to the tip, there was a bloke getting rid of a cot - he probably thought he was chucking a dead cot into the compactor amd doing a good recycling job - I saw a good board and an awful lot of good dowelling going to waste, but I don't have any use for dowelling at the moment... ;-)
--
Go on, get out of the car...
www.mikes-walks.co.uk
Do you use a small amount of grease on wheel bolts to stop them from seizing on or do you think this can cause problems ? Read more
I find a lot of it is through ignorance, they think the bolts take the weight of the car, whereas really the spigot in the middle goes into the hole in the wheel and this is the load-bearing part. The bolts just need to hold the wheel onto the spigot and not loosen.
Hi,
I have a friend (seriously...) who has been involved in an accident, not their fault apparently (is it ever?)
Their car was a write off, and they have received a letter from the insurance company with an offer of cash for a replacement, and requesting all paperwork be sent to them.
At this point it has transpired that the MOT has expired before the accident.
(1) Can anyone confirm what the conseuquences of this are? My first reaction was "well, you're screwed, as you policy is now invalid."
(2) Will they pay out at all for a replacement now?
(3) If the other driver sues for loss or earnings/whiplash or whatever, will the driver now be liable, assuming no MOT=no insurance at all?
(4) What are the legal consequences? points/fine etc
(5) The accident happened on private property, does this have any effect? there was a low speed limit, obviously exceeded by the other driver, but I don't believe this is enforceable on private land
(6) If it is provable that it was the other drivers fault, does this affect the chances of a payout even with no MOT?
I've given them my views on this, but whats happened has happened, so I'm only really interested in advice that may assist them in what they can expect. I said they should invest in an hour with a solicitor as soon as possible
Thanks very much for any advice
D Read more
(3) If the other driver sues for loss or earnings/whiplash
or whatever, will the driver now be liable, assuming no MOT=no
insurance at all?
No MOT does not mean no payout, unless this is expressly stated in your schedule. If the vehicle is unroadworthy, then that's quite different.
(4) What are the legal consequences? points/fine etc
Not endorsable, maximum £1,000 (likely to be far less).
(5) The accident happened on private property, does this have
any effect? there was a low speed limit, obviously exceeded by
the other driver, but I don't believe this is enforceable on
private land
Is there public access to the land?
I've given them my views on this, but whats happened has
happened, so I'm only really interested in advice that may assist
them in what they can expect. I said they should invest
in an hour with a solicitor as soon as possible
You want to go the the library, and have a read of Stone's, you do.
My 5 series Touring is now nearly six years old, but has done a low mileage. I am following the BMW service plan and obviously the car has been MOT'd and as part of this tyre tread has been checked and signed off. However obviously weathering must impact the life of the tyres. As the car is six years, how much longer should I keep them?
Any thoughts appreciated Read more
Also, Caveat emptor when buying 'new' tyres. Check the dates - some of those 'specials' may just be specials because they are old stock which has been sitting on the shelves for 18 months or longer...
Hello again!
Some weeks ago you all helped me with some advice about my Mondeo which had a very poor idle. After cleaning the Idle Speed Control Valve and the MAF Sensor (which the main dealer disconnected) the idle problem seems to be resolved... however...
The car started running hot and I noticed that there was a leak in the area of the water pump. A local garage has now replaced the water pump, along with the cam belt and tensioners, auxillary belt (and completed an oil change whilst they were in there!)...
All this added up, but it was a cost I was willing to pay.
The car is 10 years old with 115000 on the clock. 2.0 Ghia Auto zetec engine...
My problem now?
The garage reported that they carried out a test on the coolant reservoir, which indicated "exhaust gases" in the coolant. I remember seeing other people mention this test elsewhere on this forum. This indicates a problem with the head gasket?
The car is now still running hot, the pressure cap on the reservoir is constantly releasing steam (when up to temp) and I don't know what to do for the best.
Can I get away with putting in some sort of "weld" solution to help prevent the head gasket from getting worse (for a period of time)?
I'd like to get another 10,000 miles out of the car (or even 5,000!), but with the syptoms showing, should I sell up for what I can get and re-invest?
If I were to get the head gasket changed, is £600 too expensive? This is what the garage have quoted me.
Any advice would be welcome.
S
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For those that remember by Mondeo Zetec problems - an update (and further help?!)
My car has been in a local garage for a week. They told me up front that they would need it for a week because of their workload. I was happy to let tham do it in their own time as they have been highly recommended by a friend.
The head gasket had clearly gone and the head needed skimming. Fine, this was to be expected.
Today my Mondeo was running again, but.....
They report that the cooling fan has seized and needs replacing too! This could have been the original cause for the failure of the waterpump and subsequent HG failure.
If they cannot source a replacement (second hand) unit from a local supplier, they are suggesting a Ford new part. (this sounds expensive)
What would the implication be for me to get the car back and replace the unit myself. The car has Air Con, which I believe makes it more complex?
What price might I expect to be added to the bill for the HG work, if they replace the fan assembly (either with a second hand unit or a new one?)
Thanks in advance!


I have just changed to a Macbook Pro and it is superb. Windows in Parallels starts in half the time the PC notebook does although I hardly use Windows anymore the Mac s so much more professional IMHO.