December 2006
I have recently acquired a Xantia 1997/Rreg XUD Turbo estate in good general condition - 75KMiles. Shortly afterwards a lack of urge at the top end of the rev range has become apparent...
Another oddity is that when the engine is freshly started from cold, the boost is just fine; after it warms up the top end boost is lack-lustre, but the turbo can be heard whizzing away nevertheless - seems like not enough diesel being injected at the mid to top of the rev range when hot. Filters and the usual stuff check out OK.
Engine is 1.9 XUD with mechanical Bosch injection, but has cat and EMU black box.
Any thoughts?
Many thanks.
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I have an 05 Freelander TD4 auto and am constantly disappointed with the fuel consumption. I filled up today having done 273 miles since the last fill. I did a 50 to 60 mile journey on A roads around 50 to 60mph. Roughly the same distance would be covered doing little journeys towing a light trailer (a couple of ladders). The rest would be relatively short journeys. I know these are not fuel efficient journeys, however this fill returned 23.5mpg. My usual is 26 to 27 and I have never exceeded 28.5mpg. I don't drive aggressively and actually try to drive conservatively. What Car lists this car in manual form as having a combined fuel consumption figure of 37.2mpg. Allowing for mine being an automatic, am I right to be disappointed? Do any other owners have figures of their own?
Johnny Read more
Hi,
When I put the steering wheel on full lock (right hand) and at low speed I can hear water running behind the dashboard. If I then switch to full left lock I hear nothing - then the noise returns again as I switch back to full right lock. The car is a Ford Focus. Any ideas as to what the cause might be?
Thanks Read more
It's the power steering pump thing (tell I'm a techie) you can hear it on all Focus' on full lock. Nothing to worry about.
My daughter has just bought a 1999 1.0 Micra, which came with only one set of keys. Can anyone suggest where (in the Manchester area) she could get an additional key at the lowest possible cost?
I have had a look on eBay and to my surprise no one seems to offer a key cutting service that undercuts (pardon the pun) the main agents. The car is equipped with an immobiliser and I imagine that this compicates matters, but I would have thought it possible to provide generic keys that would work.
Any suggestions gratefully received.
Seasons greetings to all BR's
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chip in key costs £6.00 aprox
unchipped key cut £5.00 approx
would chip put on key ring start the car with unchipped key ?
Got the Jag back yesterday after my prang the other week.
Apart from a drill scratch (about 18" long) on the trim, a misfitting and scratched window, an intermittent electric window fault, something smeared across the instruments and a sticking rear door, all is well.
It's obviously going back to have those faults fettled, but in the meantime, I'm dreaming of the time when I get to polish the (perfect) paintwork. How long does one leave it these days? I generally use the high gloss polish (the wipe on rather than rub on stuff) from Autoglym.
Any views?
V Read more
It's a 2.5 and the computer says I'm doing 29mpg. I'll cross reference that sometime. It does 40mpg on my morning commute of 40 miles up the M3, which I consider to be none too shabby. 21 or so around town.
V
Further to the posting on the thread started by KathyD, can anyone please advise if the valve in the rear braking system which compensates for the weight of back seat passengers and luggage, is a separate item or would you have to break into the hydraulics to remove/service it?
Thank you. Read more
I have a look at both rear brakes yesterday and could see nothing wrong and for good messure I bled the brake in question. Braking overall is very good and so I am stumped as to the cause of the MOT failure.
Not leaking doesn't mean the slave cyls are not seized or stuck, indeed with the low mileage over the years i suspect something sticking is whats going wrong here....
Hello
I've seen the Tevion car radio on sale at Aldi this week & I thought I needed an upgrade. I would like some help from people that might know about doing this.
I've removed the cage & bought the new stereo. The new one didn't come with a new cage, but it seems like it fits in the original one ok.
A couple of problems; the existing aerial adapter will not fit into the new stereo. (its not long enough)
Existing adapter
tinyurl.com/yngns9
Back of new stereo
tinyurl.com/yhafn2
{Both links amended as images are not allowed to be posted here - DD}
What adaptor would I need for this?
Also the existing ISO connectors have an extra set of pins that the new connnector doesn't account for, at a guess I'd say these are probably for the steering wheel controls. Could I buy an adapter for these too? (not a major thing for me but would llike to know anyway)
Cheers again Read more
Or even connector block!!
Hi,
I have a Mondeo TDCi Ghia from 2005 (54 reg) and the trip computer seems to have some memory. Is this normal?
Basically if I drive for a couple of thousand miles on a motorway at about 70mph it eventually gets upto reporting about 54mpg from 47 or so. Same driving style the whole time so can't see how it changes from 47 to 54.
Have now started going to work along country lanes and it has plummeted back to 45 (as i'd expect) but when I revert to motorways it stays at about that reading.
Is anyone else's computer that stagnant? Is this a feature?
Just wondering whether mine is strange.
Cheers
Mark
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The Mondeo trip average is based on something like a rolling 50 miles*, so for the first 50 miles (or so) on the motorway the back road consumption will be accounted for. The answer is to reset the trip MPG as you join the motorway.
*Not sure exactly, the handbook may say though I dont have mine in front of me.
Whats the correct operating temperature for Pug 406 1.8? I changed the thermostat as I thought it was running a bit cool at 75 degrees. Now it runs bang on 70 degrees. I thought the ideal temp is about 85 degrees.
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Does anyone know for sure what the cut off temperature is for VAG cars?
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My Skoda Superb seems to cut off at around 5-6 deg, last year this was a real pain causing it to steam up as the temperature dropped. This year its muuuuccccch better, the climate control developed a fault (flap servo) that needed a dash out strip-down(thanks warranty!!), I wonder it the water drain was partially blocked?
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I carefully eliminated the fuel filter, air filter, intercooler trunking for leaks and general wiring etc,. etc.
In the end, I disconnected the throttle arm position potentiometer, and checked the tracking of the pot with a multimeter:
1) There is an open circuit between the outer two wires - brown and black in other words infinity.
2) The resistance in ohms between green (centre) and brown starts at 1.3K with the throttle arm at rest.
3) When the throttle arm is opened the resitance progresses up to 1.9K ohms
So.... I ran the engine without the throttle position pot connected. It started jst as normal and idled at 1000rpm - again normal.
I drove the card up the road and it now goes like poo off a shovel, with no smoke - at least as well as before the problem - possibly a gnat's foreskin better.
So... what does the throttle arm pot tell the ECU? I am inclined to leave as is. The problem followed a wash down of the engine, and clearly, the throttle arm pot got some water into it which has screwed it up permanently.
Anyone got any answers/thoughts? Can I leave the pot disconnected?