December 2006
I sat behind a recent Merc S-Class the other day which had LED lights. We were in stop-start traffic in broad daylight and he was using his foot brake nearly constantly. The effect on my eyes was not pleasant. It was almost painful. Perhaps Mercedes, BMW, Range Rover etc should investigate better control of these lights in such conditions. I understand the benefit for high-speed braking but not otherwise. Read more
Unions representing workers at sports car maker TVR are seeking urgent talks after administrators were apparently called in on Friday. Read more
He thought he still had the name but the receiver thought otherwise so the forced buy back,he not going to start producing in Blackpool or anywhere else if the report this morning on R4 financial section is to be believed.
Our local largish Tescos now stocks 2 litre bottles of their own synthetic 5-40 oil, for about £4.90p. First time I have seen it. The spec looks good, and in 5 litre cans it could be cheap. Anyone know who might make it, and if 5 litres is sold?
I have always thought UK supermarkets are way behind French hypermarkets that seem to sell a vast array of their own and other oils so cheaply. Any decent competition would help lower prices, on a product that seems so cheap in France and the USA. Read more
Yes, thats a slight snag. You should see the CR version:)
i have a mondeo 2ltr tdci and the glow plug is flashing non stop its hard to start and i am losing power any ideas please? Read more
If your glow plug light flashes on a Mk III Mondeo and your car goes into limp home mode don't panic. Even if a constant yellow engine warning light comes on too just step back and go for the least cost option. A faulty cam sensor will not give a DTC code when you run the dash diagnostic test (zero cost vs taking your motor to a garage to have DTC codes read off). Just hold in trip button for three seconds before switching on ignition to go into gauge sweep etc etc etc. You should see DTC / NONE come up after the first few dabs on the trip button. Then, if you've checked all the engine's electrical plug connections (zero cost), cleaned your cam and crank sensors (zero cost) and, the glow light / engine light continue to haunt you purchase a cam sensor for around £20 - £25 pounds from Ford or EBay. Pop it in and see if the glow plug light has now gone when you start up again. If it has but, the engine light is still there after start up switch off and try the following procedure. Switch the ignition on and off (without starting the engine) twenty, yes TWENTY times. You'll hear the "Program A New Key" beep after about six goes but carry on another fourteen times then, finally start the engine. Low and behold the dash will now be free of warning lamps and you'll only have spent 25 notes. Hope this helps anyone who reads this.
I am trying to diagnose the cause of an occasional engine stalling problem on my mother's 1993 Rover 214.
This problem has been reported as happening 2 or 3 times a week, usually after the car has been driven for a few miles.
The symptoms are that the engine will suddenly lose power without warning. It usually will not re-start straight away but after a wait of 2 minutes or so, the engine will start and continue operation without any further problems.
On two occasions, this week, I personally experienced the problem and noticed something that may be significant.
Each time the fault occurred, I turned the ignition off and back and tried to crank it and then re-tried every 30 seconds. I noticed that after 3 or 4 attempts, I did eventually hear a humming noise from the rear of the car which I presume was the [electric -in-tank] petrol pump and after this noise was heard, the car would start without problems.
This humming noise is not usually heard coming from the petrol pump after a normal key-on procedure, so there seems to be something different in the fuel system at these times.
I have noticed at the last time I filled the car with petrol, that there was a hissing sound as I removed the petrol cap. I am wondering whether there could be a blocked vent somewhere which is causing a partial vacuum to develop. If so, wheer would this be ??
I have rigged up an LED in line with the 12V supply to the pump so that I can eliminate any possible electrical fault in the ECU pump Relay or intertia switch.
Any advice welcome....
Steve
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When it happens,check to see if you get a spark from the coil,if not its probably the crank position sensor.
Its normal to get hissing from petrol cap on release as a vacuum does build up,its meant to.
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Steve
Hello and a Merry Christmas to one and all.
Simple question, neighbour has a hardstanding in front of his house that he uses to park his car, no drop kerb or drive etc, just bumps over the kerb (carefully) and drives over the small grassed area to access his hardstanding, I have been told that as there is no 'official' drop kerb that if anyone wishes to park in front of his house he has no legal basis to complain, is this correct?, if his vehicle was on the hardstanding and someone parked in front would this not be some sort of obstruction or does this not matter because of the lack of drop kerb?
Thanks
CBG
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Drink Lager, Talk Piffle,
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If someone blocks access to the property then the police will
only take action if a vehicle cannot access the highway. If
you cannot get to park on your property, then tough you
will have to wait until the blocking vehicl moves.
that's not at all correct........ the obstruction can be both ways
if someone like me has a dropped kerb and a classic car that is not covered by the insurance unless it's parked up at home in the garage at night, then i'd be in the ludicrous position of coming back home in it and having to park it in the street, uninsured, if someone blocks the garage ....
if i have an entitlement to use that part of the carriageway and someone else blocks it, they commit an offence of 'unnecessary obstruction'
the above comment about a one way offence has been an urban myth for donkey's years
I heard recently that RFT`s could become compulsory in the States by 2008 & within the EEC by 2012, can anyone on the forum confirm this rumour or not ?? Read more
I recently purchased an R Reg.Honda Civic 1.5ls Vtec, When driving on dipped or main beam, the headlights and dashboard illumination will dim and then brighten again.
The dimming will sometimes last a few seconds, or will occur quickly, as if I am flashing my lights.
My main Honda dealer has looked at the car twice, firstly checking the earth connections located near to the main fuse box, and secondly, all other earths including those to the alternator. The problem persists.
Before returning the car once more I would be pleased to receive any ideas from you experts out there.
Regards,
Royl
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Message for Peter D.
You were right. My dealer got the electrics checked by an auto electrician and it was the regulator which was faulty. The dealer has tried to get a replacement regulator but it has not been possible so we are negotiating over a new alternator
Many thanks for your help.
Regards,
Royl
The Christmas Fairy is working overtime..
On Friday the washing machine stopped working (new motherboard at £100 £75 call-out..)
This morning I was washing the car when I noticed a horizontal 250mm. crack 50mm. from the bottom of the windscreen that wasn't there yesterday-(a stone chip at each end) unfortunately within the wiper arc, and the car goes in for its MOT next Tuesday, and my insurance company inform me that the windscreen excess went up from £50 to £75 a week ago...
Happy Christmas all!
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DD,
I'm getting the new screen fitted on Tuesday morning. I contacted the screen company rep., who confirmed £50.
Haven't been able to get in touch with anyone at my insurance co. over the Christmas period, so I'll stick with the £50 quote and let them fight it out between themselves!
Happy New Year to you all.
P.
Always fancied one of the new aston Martin DB roadster but don't have the funds. then worry no more, have a look....
www.leftlanenews.com/2006/07/17/turning-a-miata-in.../
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There's one based on an MR2 - tinyurl.com/ye8jce.
Browse
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Not mine, it drops itself into neutral within 2 seconds of coming to a stop with the brake lights left on.
Can't argue with that one ;o)