June 2006
Mate has bought this car and having problems,It will start no problem and accelerates ok for about a mile.
It then hessitates, drops revs (but not stall), and will tickover fine,But will not rev up,He was told by several people except mercedes,Throttle body was the problem.
This has been replaced by a garage at cost of £500 inclusive.
Problem still exists.
Anyone any idea what the problem maybe??
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Steve Read more
I have just recently given my Rover 416i to my daughter (as a gift) as I no longer need it. It has always been a good runner until now. Every time she uses it, the engine cuts out. It will start again but cuts out intermittently. I'm embarrassed. It was a great car. Had no problems with it. What could it be?
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If it's the Honda engine, it will almost certainly be one of two things: the ingiter module...
www.gcw.org.uk/rover/igniter.htm
( available from www.currentcare.co.uk/index.php?showprod=7320578 )
...or the fuel pump Main Relay, as described by
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#mainrel...y
Please can you post a follow-up to let us know how you get on.
While driving down the auto bahn the other day, i heard a wee bit of a noise from what i believe from the gear box ish...
I now find that i get some what of an engaging click or step (strange to describe) when i change at times from forward to reverse.
Help is it serious? Is it worth getting it fixed?
Regards Read more
Thanks for the response... think i have it sorted now...raised the suspension and noticed the bolt from the engine mounting through the bush is missing, will go and get it sorted tomorrow, forgot to mention i was doing 135 on the clock when it went clunk........yee ha
Okay, I tried this in Technical with no response. Maybe one for Aprilla?
My wife has a VW Bora 1.9TDi, 90PS which is now used for mostly local runs after a life of longer runs with me. In the winter the heater has always taken a good few miles to get up to full heat (around 10 minutes). I have a newer Golf TDi which appears to have an immersion heater because there is some heat from the heater within a mile or so. Before I ask our local VW dealer does anyone know if it possible to retrofit an immersion heater to the Bora? If so what sort of cost would we be looking at? We have had the car from new and it has always been like this. Once up to heat there is no problem with heat output.
Many thanks,
Servelan, I read most days but post infrequently.
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Thanks guys. My new Golf, a Mk IV Estate begins to throw out warm air very quickly as JohnM says. It does not have the auxiliary heater that TVM refers to. I just assumed there must be some form of heater to get warm air so quickly after start up, and I wondered if it, whatever it is, could be retro fitted to my wife's Bora.
Hello Gents,as above,when I moved it today I noticed the clutch cable feels about to snap it is so dry!Would anyone know the best way to get some oil into it? Footwell or Bulkhead end?-Thanks. Read more
Thanks again guys-15 min. job,just a dry cable. And I saved a few quid.Which is why a lot of us are here!Cheers Mick.
I'm thinking of buying a '06 Vectra 1.8 VVT, what is the opinion of you guys on this model? Read more
I've seen Network Q pre-reg Vectra 1.8 (140bhp) Exclusiv's for £10,999. On Vauxhall's website.
Starting a new job soon, looking to swap my 2001 Civic 1.4 for something with a bit more grunt and economy (diesel).
This is because I will be doing a 40 mile round trip daily.
I find the Civic to be poor economy 85 miles for £10 petrol, and on the motorway I always seem to be working hard just to keep up to speed.
In 3 years of motoring the Civic has never let me down, so I am looking for something equally reliable.
I have a Volvo v40 diesel in mind, and also a passat.
Estate would be nice, as would multiple airbags and automatic transmission.
Any suggestions for a vehicle around the £5k mark? Read more
Why not look out for a 1.6 Civic that you can afford?
It shouldn't use much iof any more petrol as you won't need to put your foot to the floor all the time to get decent performance.
There's also a 1.7 diesel Civic but I believe these are a little underpowered.
Hi I've just found this site whilst looking for a solution to my wheel wobble on a 1996 2.7TD Ford Maverick (long wheel base) and wondered if anyone had encountered it before.
The car drives fine up to 50 MPH then develops a violent wobble through the steering wheel that seems to get worse when cornering.
I can drive through it and after 60 MPH it more or less goes away, passengers claim to be able to feel a "movement" coming through the foot well on that side when slow manovering. My first thought was wishbone bushes but all seem ok. I've had the wheels balanced and swapped around the car to eliminate them and it?s made no difference.
Any advice would be most welcome. :) Read more
sounds similar to an old ford problem,Have the steering column checked out and all assoc parts,not unknown for steering rack to be faulty or steeering column fault?
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Steve
I've been quoted roughly the same price for three brands of tyre and have no real idea which to go for. I don't know the exact tyre model (which I know might make a difference) but based on brand alone for a set of 205/60/15v should I go for Avons, BF Goodrich or GT?
In the absence of any advice I would probably plump for the BF's simply because I have seen more of their advertising!
Thanks in advance Read more
Sounds like this is a very subjective issue. I expect everyone's opinions are valid as we all drive in different styles, different conditions and different mileages. So what works well for some may not for others. It is very easy to start letting the cost of this creep up and considering I do a low mileage and with the arrival of a new tiny passenger imminent, my days of hard cornering are over!
Hello,
I'm considering buying a car that was first purchased in the Channel Islands. It has since been imported to mainland UK and is now for sale.
I have spoken to the dealer in the Channel Islands who assures me that cars sold there are full UK spec and are in fact exported from mainland UK in the first place.
I spoke to the DVLA about whether the car is classed as an import and they gave me a yes/no answer. The car will always have a history as an import, but in terms of insurance etc is is a fully legit UK car.
My concern is that this import history will deter (as it is with me) future buyers when I come to sell the car on.
Furthermore, the current owner has lost/had stolen their original service history booklet so they have a partially complete book (stamped with "Replacement", I guess).
This second factor is probably more of a worry than the first.
Thirdly, and this is more of a question, what do people think about cars from the Channel Islands? Are they more prone to bodywork corrosion, or is that a thing of the past now we have galvanisation etc?
I'm looking for advice/opinions on whether I should give this car (and its seller) a chance or give it a wide berth.
Other than these factors, the car seems to be exactly what I'm looking for and it falls within my price range (which is at the lower end of the scale for this type of car).
Thanks and sorry for the ramble,
JoshM Read more
SFAIK the cars go to Jersey VAT free and when they are re-imported VAT is paid on the value at the time of import and not the new cost when they were exported, so there is a saving to be made and it is legal, if this is what is being done of course!
Browse
There is no "flasher unit " on this car.There is a multi-function control relay for indicators/hazards/wiper delay and hrw functions situated in the fuse box .