April 2006

PeterT

Whilst dring home last evening I lost power from the engine and when trying to acellerate heard rattleing noise from the engine. Further on when moving off from the traffic lights clouds of smoke came from the exhaust.
I feel this could be expensive !!
Has anyone any ideas of the problem and if so is it a stock fault and do BMW help with costs? The car is four years old an has covered 40K miles as has been regularly serviced.
Peter T

slt Read more

Craig_1969

Bmwland.co.uk is the best forum for info, a 320d or 330d just blew its turbo and there is a thread or two on blown turbo's.

www.bmwland.co.uk/talker/viewtopic.php?t=27135

PoloGirl

Rest assured this isn't another choose my car thread, but having spent the afternoon buried in What Car, Test Drive and various websites, one question is plaguing me.

At what point does it make economical sense to switch to diesel? 20,000 miles per year, 30,000+ or as little as 10,000? The initial price of the new car is higher and the diesel itself is more expensive (I think - sure it was last time I looked) but it lasts longer. There must be some kind of cut off point, and I'm sure someone somewhere has done the sums!



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Happy Blue!

Irrelevant...keeping an old car or buying second hand is far more 'green' than buying new. The costs of production and 'whole of life' costs must be taken into account for 'greenness'. An old Mondeo V6 (say 1999) bought now and run for three years is far more green than buying a new TDCi and more economical.

The Derv v Petrol cash question only comes into play if you are buying a new car and must buy a new car. For the rest of us, buy what want, what suits your pocket, lifestyle etc etc.

Thats why we have a Subaru Forester XT for my 8,000 suburban miles pa and my wife has a diesel Trajet for her kids rota and family trips doing just over 10,000 miles pa.
--
Espada III - well if you have a family and need a Lamborghini, what else do you drive?

Xileno {P}

Those who have these cars may already have experienced how difficult it is to change these bulbs. Having invested in a Haynes manual, it is much much much easier if you remove the wheel arch liner first.

HTH Read more

BobbyG

Now you tell me!!!!

When I was doing mine I had a look at the wheel arch but that didn't (at first glance) look too easy either!

Deskpilot

If there are any owners out there who own the above quoted model of CRV, I would be most grateful to learn whether they suffer as I do from a jet engine type whine/whistle which comes in at 35/40 mph and then persists. On the other hand, do you own a car of this model and are free from this problem?

I have tried two demonstrator cars of this type, and likewise, they displayed the same characteristics.

My view is that the automatic gearbox is possibly the source of the problem or perhaps, the "drive by wire" accelerator system, because the whine becomes more intense on blipping the pedal.

I believe the DBW system works via two potentiometers, varying the output according to pedal pressure, so presumably an electrical current is generated.

My dealer is involved, but, to date, is no nearer finding an answer, neither are Honda.

Frankly, the car is otherwise, great, (this is my third CRV), but this one is driving me right up the wall !!!

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Deskpilot

Thanks for your comments. I too had a 2002 model of the same spec which gave no trouble at all.

Unfortunately the 2005/2006 CRV had a facelift plus, I understand, some tinkering with the the engine and drivetrain.

For example, at 70mph on the 2002 model the revs were some 3100/3200, whereas at the same speed, revs now come in at about 2800.

Whether this us due to the 16" wheels on this model (15" on the 2002 CRV) I don't know but I wouldn't have thought so.

gingerwinger

a mate of mine had her car in a garage for some warrenty work and the garage gave her a loan car but cus she was under 25 there insurance didn't cover her so they said she had to use her own insurance to cover the car. she rang the insurance company and told them it was a loan car and they only covered her on tpft and the garage were aware of this. bad news is that she drove into the back of a car. the garage recovered the car and now are not letting her have her car back till she pays 1000 notes to cover the damage on the loan car. can the garage keep her car ??? she said she will pay for the damage but not in one big lump but over a few months. could she class it as theft of her car ??? Read more

Screwloose


Unfortunate situation, but the garage is using the Law of Lien which does give it the legal right to retain her car until all outstanding monies are settled. A slick lawyer might try and argue it given the unusual circumstances of this case; but if he fails, where's his fee coming from?

Most people new to the trade have agreed to allow impecunious customers "time to pay." The typical scenario is that you get the first payment, the second is late and the wasted time and hassle of getting the third means that you never see the rest of it.

She took the risk; wasn't careful with borrowed goods and it's now time to see if her bank really does listen.

ricflair

been looking at this, cgi.ebay.co.uk/RENAULT-MEGANE-COUPE-SPORT-1-6_W0QQ...m

looks very nice. Anything i should check for? Is this likley to cost me a bombe in repairs? Read more

blue_haddock

Well i've got my landie which is the proper toy but me and a mate had considered spending a couple of hundred quid on a bit of a disposable short term toy such as a panda 4x4 that as soon as we kill it we can afford to just weigh it in for scrap.

Strip it, build a basic cage then see how long it lasts!

Adam {P}

...this is how I'd imagine his eBay ad to read.

Read it all - it's arguably the funniest one yet.

tinyurl.com/fykyd
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PhilDews

Firstly, do bear in mind that he's only just coming uypto 9 months old, with a brother or sister due at the end of July!).

I figure it'll give him a balanced view of life - we read (in order of importance) Honest John, Terracan Australia, Hartlepool United, and then various news sites!

And do be fare on yourself, not all of your posts are rubbish, the discussions we've had about police cars/chases are obviously the high points of this board...
------------------------------------------------
Drive Your Way - If anything can, TerraCan
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Canuck

My 1996 Peugeot 406 (no aircon) has the dreaded smell of antifreeze when the heater is on. I am guessing that the heater meatix needs to be replaced. My Haynes manual indicates that the matrix can be accessed by removing the glove box, but having spent the best part of a sunny Saturday taking the glove box out and a few other panels besides, I can't see how the matrix will ever come out without removing the entire fascia.

I am sure that there is someone out there who has replaced a 406 heater matrix and I would very much appreciate some advice as to how to do this with a minimum of pain and profanity.

Thanks in advance

Canuck Read more

Canuck

Thank you, this gives me enough confidence to boldly go in through the glove box on the weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.

Canuck

terrymb

Dear Honest John
I have a new Toyota Yaris which features a rather nanny state safety device in which the clutch pedal must be pressed to enable the engine to be started.

I complained to Toyota and asked for authority to have this inhibitor deactivated as I contend that this puts a load on the crankshaft thrust bearings when there is no pressured oil present and would lead to rapid wear of the washers.

In their reply they justified this device from the safety angle, and stated that although deactivation this wouldn't invalidate the warranty itself, subsequent failure that involved the systems around starting could result in its invalidation. They also said it could have insurance implications by being out of makers spec, and the hardest part I had of taking on board was that the thrust washers were splash lubricated, I find this very hard to believe.

Can you substantiate this lubrication question. Read more

jc2

In the old days-and I mean old-we were told to push in the clutch to reduce load on the starter when starting from cold but only on engines with a ball-race clutch release bearing;many cars in those days had a solid block of carbon as a release bearing and pushing in the clutch on these increased the load on the starter.

philipb

In today's DT Motoring section, there is an article about a new Collision Avoidance system developed by Volvo. I am in favour of any active or passive device that enhances my chance of remaining uninjured but I am little worried about the applicability of their research.

They monitored the driving behaviour of 241 drivers in Virginia, who covered a total of 2 million miles in 1 year.

Despite knowing that their driving was under scrutiny, they had a total of 82 crashes and 761 near misses!

I have checked the DFT website and found that the official accident rates on Britains roads is 44 per 100 million kilometres = 0.6 per million miles. By these figures, you would have expected 1.3 crashes.

Now, I appreciate that Stateside drivers, road and cars are somewhat different to ours:

"In November 2000, Mr. Grazinski purchased a brand new 32 foot Winnebago motor home. On his first trip home, having joined the freeway, he set the cruise control at 70 mph and calmly left the drivers seat to go into the back and make himself a cup of coffee. Not surprisingly, the Winnie left the freeway, crashed and overturned. Mr. Grazinski sued Winnebago for not advising him in the handbook that he could not actually do this. He was awarded $1,750,000 plus a new Winnebago"
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Andrew-T

Higher accident rates in the USA are commonly attributed to vast, wide open spaces, freeways meandering on for miles and people driving humungous distances, leading to loss of concentration and falling asleep at the wheel.

At least freeways meander a bit. Perhaps a worse threat is the dead straight interstate roads, which do go literally for miles, especially in the western flatter states. Just look at a map.