April 2006
If there are any owners out there who own the above quoted model of CRV, I would be most grateful to learn whether they suffer as I do from a jet engine type whine/whistle which comes in at 35/40 mph and then persists. On the other hand, do you own a car of this model and are free from this problem?
I have tried two demonstrator cars of this type, and likewise, they displayed the same characteristics.
My view is that the automatic gearbox is possibly the source of the problem or perhaps, the "drive by wire" accelerator system, because the whine becomes more intense on blipping the pedal.
I believe the DBW system works via two potentiometers, varying the output according to pedal pressure, so presumably an electrical current is generated.
My dealer is involved, but, to date, is no nearer finding an answer, neither are Honda.
Frankly, the car is otherwise, great, (this is my third CRV), but this one is driving me right up the wall !!!
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a mate of mine had her car in a garage for some warrenty work and the garage gave her a loan car but cus she was under 25 there insurance didn't cover her so they said she had to use her own insurance to cover the car. she rang the insurance company and told them it was a loan car and they only covered her on tpft and the garage were aware of this. bad news is that she drove into the back of a car. the garage recovered the car and now are not letting her have her car back till she pays 1000 notes to cover the damage on the loan car. can the garage keep her car ??? she said she will pay for the damage but not in one big lump but over a few months. could she class it as theft of her car ??? Read more
Unfortunate situation, but the garage is using the Law of Lien which does give it the legal right to retain her car until all outstanding monies are settled. A slick lawyer might try and argue it given the unusual circumstances of this case; but if he fails, where's his fee coming from?
Most people new to the trade have agreed to allow impecunious customers "time to pay." The typical scenario is that you get the first payment, the second is late and the wasted time and hassle of getting the third means that you never see the rest of it.
She took the risk; wasn't careful with borrowed goods and it's now time to see if her bank really does listen.
been looking at this, cgi.ebay.co.uk/RENAULT-MEGANE-COUPE-SPORT-1-6_W0QQ...m
looks very nice. Anything i should check for? Is this likley to cost me a bombe in repairs? Read more
Well i've got my landie which is the proper toy but me and a mate had considered spending a couple of hundred quid on a bit of a disposable short term toy such as a panda 4x4 that as soon as we kill it we can afford to just weigh it in for scrap.
Strip it, build a basic cage then see how long it lasts!
...this is how I'd imagine his eBay ad to read.
Read it all - it's arguably the funniest one yet.
tinyurl.com/fykyd
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Firstly, do bear in mind that he's only just coming uypto 9 months old, with a brother or sister due at the end of July!).
I figure it'll give him a balanced view of life - we read (in order of importance) Honest John, Terracan Australia, Hartlepool United, and then various news sites!
And do be fare on yourself, not all of your posts are rubbish, the discussions we've had about police cars/chases are obviously the high points of this board...
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Drive Your Way - If anything can, TerraCan
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My 1996 Peugeot 406 (no aircon) has the dreaded smell of antifreeze when the heater is on. I am guessing that the heater meatix needs to be replaced. My Haynes manual indicates that the matrix can be accessed by removing the glove box, but having spent the best part of a sunny Saturday taking the glove box out and a few other panels besides, I can't see how the matrix will ever come out without removing the entire fascia.
I am sure that there is someone out there who has replaced a 406 heater matrix and I would very much appreciate some advice as to how to do this with a minimum of pain and profanity.
Thanks in advance
Canuck Read more
Thank you, this gives me enough confidence to boldly go in through the glove box on the weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.
Canuck
Dear Honest John
I have a new Toyota Yaris which features a rather nanny state safety device in which the clutch pedal must be pressed to enable the engine to be started.
I complained to Toyota and asked for authority to have this inhibitor deactivated as I contend that this puts a load on the crankshaft thrust bearings when there is no pressured oil present and would lead to rapid wear of the washers.
In their reply they justified this device from the safety angle, and stated that although deactivation this wouldn't invalidate the warranty itself, subsequent failure that involved the systems around starting could result in its invalidation. They also said it could have insurance implications by being out of makers spec, and the hardest part I had of taking on board was that the thrust washers were splash lubricated, I find this very hard to believe.
Can you substantiate this lubrication question. Read more
In the old days-and I mean old-we were told to push in the clutch to reduce load on the starter when starting from cold but only on engines with a ball-race clutch release bearing;many cars in those days had a solid block of carbon as a release bearing and pushing in the clutch on these increased the load on the starter.
In today's DT Motoring section, there is an article about a new Collision Avoidance system developed by Volvo. I am in favour of any active or passive device that enhances my chance of remaining uninjured but I am little worried about the applicability of their research.
They monitored the driving behaviour of 241 drivers in Virginia, who covered a total of 2 million miles in 1 year.
Despite knowing that their driving was under scrutiny, they had a total of 82 crashes and 761 near misses!
I have checked the DFT website and found that the official accident rates on Britains roads is 44 per 100 million kilometres = 0.6 per million miles. By these figures, you would have expected 1.3 crashes.
Now, I appreciate that Stateside drivers, road and cars are somewhat different to ours:
"In November 2000, Mr. Grazinski purchased a brand new 32 foot Winnebago motor home. On his first trip home, having joined the freeway, he set the cruise control at 70 mph and calmly left the drivers seat to go into the back and make himself a cup of coffee. Not surprisingly, the Winnie left the freeway, crashed and overturned. Mr. Grazinski sued Winnebago for not advising him in the handbook that he could not actually do this. He was awarded $1,750,000 plus a new Winnebago"
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Higher accident rates in the USA are commonly attributed to vast, wide open spaces, freeways meandering on for miles and people driving humungous distances, leading to loss of concentration and falling asleep at the wheel.
At least freeways meander a bit. Perhaps a worse threat is the dead straight interstate roads, which do go literally for miles, especially in the western flatter states. Just look at a map.
I've recently bought a 6 month old Mondeo TDCi 130 with 8000 miles on the clock. The car isn't due it's first service til 12500 miles. After owning it for three weeks I've only just dipped the oil and am a tad worried as it's well over the maximum mark.
The dipstick is a wire type with a plastic gauge piece at the end. The whole of the plastic gauge part is covered in oil when dipped, well over the max mark, and I'm pretty sure the dipstick is coming out without dragging on the sides of the tube. I've dipped it whilst stone cold and it's parked on the level.
The handbook doesn't specify the best time to dip, should I only dip after the engine has been run after waiting for a couple of minutes? I've always had petrol cars previously and they've never over-read on the dipstick when dipped cold.
Any other Mondeo TDCi owners got any ideas? I know there may be a few around the forum ;-) Read more
does anyone else with a TDCi have similar problems? I can't get a level at all, ending up with oil all over the gauge and on the actual dipstick wire.>>
Must say it seems to work for me, I always measure when the car has been left standing for an hour or so.
Just noticed that new MOT certificates have got a peel off sticker incorporated.
What am I supposed to do with them?- I can not recall any guidance being given for car or bike.
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I wasna fu but just had plenty. Read more
It all depends whom the sticker is supposed to be aimed at. It might be for the benefit of police etc,
Won't be aimed at the police. The date can't be seen from outside the car. It acts as a reminder to the driver.
yesterday my classic car failed its Mot, reason due to quite a bit of welding needed.
Does anyone have any idea on the cost of welding by garages.
I dont want to lose my car, and if the price is ok want to keep.
How much in extreme cases could it cost, and have any of you had your cars welded by garages, how much did it cost you.
thanks for any info.
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Have just done this with a Renault camper,apart from the battery and clutch failing in the first week,when VOSA checked it they said it should never have got the MOT issued a couple of weeks earlier,the steering and other faults made it dangerous and unroadworthy.Private seller(Ebay)came fom Swindon to Leeds,refunded and drove(!)it away.Anyone seen the remains of a Renault Trafic on the M6?
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Thanks for your comments. I too had a 2002 model of the same spec which gave no trouble at all.
Unfortunately the 2005/2006 CRV had a facelift plus, I understand, some tinkering with the the engine and drivetrain.
For example, at 70mph on the 2002 model the revs were some 3100/3200, whereas at the same speed, revs now come in at about 2800.
Whether this us due to the 16" wheels on this model (15" on the 2002 CRV) I don't know but I wouldn't have thought so.