December 2003
my 98 peugeot 106xs suffers from front brake fade when driven hard. I have renewed the front discs and pads as well as rear shoes but the front still overheat when driven hard resulting in nasty brake fade. I was surprised to find that the discs are solid and not vented. Presumeably this is the problem. Anyone else experienced this problem? And is there a solution, maybe uprated discs and pads?
Also can anyone tell me the difference between the 106 xsi and 106 gti ?
Thanks
Pete Read more
could anyone tell me the correct tyre pressure for a nissan primeria with 215/50/17 tyres please?
Joe 90 Read more
thanks for your reply,
unfortunatly the dunlop site is way out of date.
Joe 90
Evening all.
My brother, Xmas bonus in hand (alright for some!), is looking for a new car now that he can afford to get out of his decrepit Volvo 440, which has reached the end of his useful life, and has asked me to vet potential purchases.
He has a maximum of £2,000 to spend, and whittling through his list of what he wants from a car, he has shortlisted the Audi 80 2.0E, in either 8 valve or 16 valve guise, or a BMW 3-series.
Looking at Autotrader I was surprised to see you can get an E36 3-series for under £2k these days, but personally think the Audi is the better bet at this age and mileage (K/L-plate with around 100k on the clock). I make it a golden rule never to consider anything without a full service history, which means there are a lot more Audis in the frame than Beemers.
8 valve 80's seem to abound more than the 16-valve version, but my brother has done his homework on the insurance front and seems dead set on the 16-valve version. Has anyone had experience of running one of these cars, and knows what to look for? I've consulted Car-By-Car Breakdown of course, but any other points would be much appreciated. I used to run a 1984 80 quattro which was good as gold, but I have no experience of later Audis. Another possibility is an early Coupe which uses the same underpinnings as the 80 - I've seen a J-plate 2.0E in his price range.
He's only really interested in a 320i BMW-wise, in order to get the six-cylinder engine, but I personally think (if we can find an unmolested one) an E30 318is would be a good choice. Failing that, there seem to be quite a few 518is and 520is about (E34 model), in some cases for less than the equivalent age/mileage 3. Again, any points to note?
Failing that (tall order I know), are there any other cars in the price bracket that would suit? Insurance group 15 is a maximum (he's 23 with two years NCB), something reliable and with a bit of class. Honda Preludes and late Mk2 Golf GTIs (8 valve) have been considered, but the Hondas in the price range seem a bit ropey and it's a tall order to find an unmolested Golf.
Your thoughts would be much appreciated.
PS The Volvo in question is bodily shot (offside badly creased, although doesn't affect chassis or door function) but has 11 months MOT. Are dealers likely to turn their noses up if he tries for a trade-in, even at a nominal value of £50-£100? Read more
Thanks to all who commented, we went out today and bought a 2.0E 8 valve, 92 on the J with 108k up for £1,450. Not the cheapest by a long chalk, but the nicest one (Sport alloys and spoiler) and it was the only one that wasn't red (nice dark metallic green). Icing on the cake was a full VAG history and it had been owned by a rabid enthusiast for the last 5 years.
If anyone wants a £100 90H Volvo 440 with 11 months MOT, check the ad in Classifieds :)
Know this subject has been covered recently (though I can't find the thread), however worth highlighting a letter that is printed in this weeks Auto Express.
Guy bought replacement Osrams for his Scenic to find out that, to fit them in his car, meant "serious dismantling of the engine bay, something that can only be carried out by the dealer for about £70".
I have a Scenic as well, thus the interest, but may be worth checking out before you pay for replacement bulbs!
Anyone else experienced problems? Personally, I am not sure what this £70 of work would be! Read more
Autolamps are offering three headlamp bulbs for the price of two.
Keen prices - I just bought some as spares.
www.autolamps-online.com/home.htm
I\'m thinking of buying a B class corsa (1997 P) it\'s one of the 16 valve models is 7 years old with one owner so I\'m assuming e\'s done a fair bit of motorway driving with it. The mileage is at 110k. Any thought onto how much life the vehicle has left? It\'ll be used as a school run/shopping car so not much mileage but alot of the obvious start stop strain.
TIA
Himji Read more
Generally Vaux engines are fairly bulletproof, but saying that 110k miles is a lot for a small engine. Don\'t let that put you off though, providing it\'s had regular servicing, and the one owner from new isn\'t a boy racer, it should go on for another 50k miles at least - if not many many more. You pays your money and takes your chance. If he has done a fair bit of motorway driving with it, then the mileage shouldn\'t be a problem.
Budget for a cambelt change in 10,000 miles (change at every 40k - used to be 80k but Vaux lowered the timescale) and it\'s advisable to also get the waterpump changed at the same time - unless you have a service history that suggests that this work has recently been done.
Clutch could still be the original one - and if it is, again budget for a new one, sooner rather than later, with all those start stop journeys you intend using it for ;o)
Also check HJ\'s Car By Car Breakdown (Red Menu Bar to left of screen) for his analysis of the Corsa.
Help!! Car always started 2nd or 3rd time in morning (has for last few years). Last weekend (when first real cold weather arrived) started taking about 15 mins. Next day-would not start. Engine turning ok but no smoke from exhaust etc. Eventually started with help of jump leads (but there was no combustion noise for ages) After work took it to garage who renewed all glow plugs. Next morning would not start at all. AA came out. Said battery was okay but no current(?)at plugs.Found a glow plug touching a bracket( had happened at garage) which he said was earthing it and preventing enough electric getting to plugS(?). He fixed this and renewed wire. Started as soon as he did this and has been starting instantly (ie better than ever) since until this afternoon when i changed the fuel filter. It did start a few times initially but then died- turning fine but again no smoke at exhaust and unable to rev. I even put the old filter back on - it started but then died within about 20 seconds. No smoke from exhaust since. Im hoping a friend is coming up tomorrow as i am clueless with cars- any pointers- i have searched through the old threads on here already by the way. I have also changed the air filter (before aa came out) and oil filter (this morning). Help. Its doing my head in. Read more
Thanks to everyone for there help with this. I should have put fuel in filter before changing! We got fuel through and then some air had to be despatched but it has started each time since.
Fingers crossed!
Yesterday, I took a taxi ride from the Solna region of Stockholm to Arlanda airport in a V70 D5 auto. Nine months old, with 187,500 km showing. In English, that's approximately 116,250 miles, or about 13,000 miles a month, which equates to the approximate frequency of 'annual' service. Average fuel consumption coverts to a pretty impressive 44 MPG. The cabbie's previous car was a petrol Volvo 740, which his son then purchased, and which has clocked up over 1,300,000 km (800,000 miles). The engine and auto gearbox are originals, and have never been taken apart beyond routine servicing, although the engine barely scraped through the annual Swedish emissions test this year.
As if these statistics are not enough, Taxi Stockholm is a franchise operation with 1,600 cars on the books, mostly E Class Diesel Estates and V70 D5s, all clocking up this sort of mileage, all requiring servicing, and all requiring dispatch coordination. Instead of the Volvo RTI traffic avoidance and navigation system, the franchise entitles the cabbie to an integrated dispatch control and touch screen navigation system that was truly impressive. The cabbies even send speed trap alerts to each other using the system. Makes the beat up, dirty, old Toyotas and Nissans that ply my neighbourhood look decidedly low rent, though at £40 for a twenty minute ride, Swedish comfort and accuracy of journey does not come cheap.
Read more
SjB,
"The taxi driver explained that it is quite normal for several drivers to share the same cab, and for ultilisation to be of the order of 20 hours a day. As an aside, I'm convinced that it's because of this, and that the engine never gets properly cold, that they last for such intergalactic mileages."
I think the above statement is the key long lasting engines. My brother runs a taxi firm in UK and with 2 or more drivers using the same car it is not unusual for Mondeos and Vectras to cover 400k or more without any trouble from the engine. His current Mondeo has done over 300K without any attention to the engine and a Nissan he owned did over 600K.
However as had been said many times on this site, the cost of keeping older cars on the road is rarely due to engine wear problems. Most go to their automotive grave with perfectly serviceable engines.
C
Hi,
A couple of weeks ago I had my two front tyres changed on my Ford Focus 1.6 Zetec at my local Rapid Fit. After I noticed that the car veers to the left when the steering wheel is centred. I returned the following week and the guy suggested the tracking be checked. It was way off apparently. At the same time I had the front pads changed.
Dove the car out gained some speed, now it veers to the right when wheel is centred. I retuned to the Rapid Fit centre yesterday where they swapped front wheels with back wheel and did the tracking again. Still veers to the left.
I had a motorway journey after and could move across the whole carriageway by holding the wheel centred.
Anyone got any ideas. I am at a loss. It?s so annoying as before my car was perfect where steering handling was concerned.
Cheers
Andrew B Read more
Had exactly the same problem with a previous Fiesta, funnily enough Rapid Fit didn't mess the tracking up, I left that to another chain. However, Rapid Fit fixed it for free.
They simply adjusted the track rod ends to the correct position so that the wheels were aligned with each other, and also pointed straight ahead when the steering did.
Unfortunately it is no longer possible to adjust the steering wheel itself on cars like the Focus, they don't use the fine splines to mount it anymore, but a much less adjustable form, a hexagon I think.
Anyway, you wouldn't want to fix this by adjusting the steering wheel, that is only masking what was actually a lazy effort to fix the tracking in the first place. Go back and complain!
Blue
I know H.J. is a strong advocate of the above product for keeping injectors clean and adding lubricity to the fuel to prolong fuel pump life.
Its use has been discussed on this forum sometime ago, but I have run a search and been unable to trace any threads on the subject.
As I do a lot of short runs with my diesel, I am considering using this fuel additive and would appreciate any feedback from any users in the B.R. Read more
Certainly the exception rather than the rule here regarding your insurance!
You must have caught them on a good day!
There are a number of Backroomers insuring their chipped cars with Liverpool Victoria and all have reported the same response from them (No increase and no problems) although I accept that for some cars and some driver profiles they may load premiums. This new approach only came about this year, so if you have had problems in the past I would recommend a fresh approach.
I used to work for them and know that they take a sensible approach to risk-based underwriting. Thoroughly recommended, on approach, customer service and premium. When asked they upped my cover to full business use for myself and my wife on both cars (previously fully comp SDP) for an extra £40 or so per annum. Now that kind of premium for that extra cover I can live with!
I should add that I no longer have any connection with the company since branching out and setting up my own business.
******* Thread now closed, please see volume 26 ********
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=18501
In this thread you may ask any question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
It does not need to be motoring related. In fact, in this thread it should not be.
No politics
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which I think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )
Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
However, as has been said a couple of times, there is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 25. Previous Volumes will not be deleted.
Volume 24 can be found here: tinyurl.com/z2tf1 Read more
I was about to compose a post saying exactly the same as Chris's so I'll just place another vote for Firebird. Full Mozilla is fine too but the program is a bit big if you only want the web browser.
I must confess, I've been using Firebird (full Mozilla before that) for a month or two and wasn't aware of all the features mentioned above. My favourite feature is tabbed browsing. This enables you to have many pages open at the same time without cluttering your screen.
As a matter of interest have the rear brakes been adjusted.As if not may be putting more pressure on front`s than needed just a thought