October 2003

Simon Collier

I have a '95 1.9TD LX Xantia, 160k. Reliable car. I had new front tyres put on it at the weekend (probably a red herring) but on Monday I noticed that although it doesn't pull to either side, the steering wheel position has changed - about a 10 degree turn clockwise when going straight. I've had the car for 40k, definately different this week to last. Any idea what causes this? Read more

M.M

Very likely to be the tyres. It is more common than folks realise for a new tyre to have a slight bias.

Try swapping them from side to side or front to rear and see what happens.

Of course I assume the guys haven't done something very silly like jacking the car up and catching a track rod arm! Oh and they didn't do the tracking at the same time did they?

M.M

Question VW Auto-Choke
DavidRow

VW Golf MK2 1.3 (1988)

Is there a history of trouble with the auto-choke on this engine? I used to have a Polo that cut out when cold (sometimes at the most unhelpful of times!) and now I fear my Golf is going the same way. Sometimes she starts on the button, sometimes she feels like she's flooded and I have to hang on the starter for a few seconds. When accelerating at low revs under load (up a slight hill in 3rd or 4th) she misfires. After around 10 minutes of driving, she might cut out altogether when I dip the clutch at traffic lights. As all these problems occur within 15 minutes of starting when cold, I'm guessing the Auto-choke is a little senile and doesn't know what to do anymore. I've had the car 'tuned' (mixture, carb jets cleaned, timing) at my garage, and she runs sweetly when warm. Does a dodgy auto-choke sound like a reasonable diagnosis? And more importantly, how can it be fixed? New Auto-choke? Retro fit Manual Choke? What do those in the know reckon?

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DavidRow

Spent a bit of time searching through the archives, and that, as well as the possible faults mentioned here, has given me a lot to look at!
Thanks for your help - with luck I'll put it right with a bit of fiddling.
Dave

MikeW

Hi

I'm looking for some advice or clues. I have a Volvo V70 2.5 20v petrol (1999) which has nearly 100k on it. Since 80k it started using oil (or losing it). I can't find a leak, nor is there any evidence of burnt oil in the exhaust. It has passed 2 or 3 MoT tests.

At first I thought the servicing garage had underfilled it, but the problem persists and I calculate that I am losing or using about 1 litre per 1000 miles (the dipstick goes from max to below min in 4-5000 miles and the max/min gap is 4 litres).

Can anyone offer any advice before I send it into the garage and a possibly long and expensive search for the problem?

The car exhibits no other problems that I can see. Coolant levels are stable and the oil does not have signs of emulsifying. It is also usually quite clean.

Cheers
Mike
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MikeW

Just in case anyone ever reviews this thread I did find out that the manual had a misprint. The difference between max/min on the dipstick is only one litre.

M.M

I wonder if anyone (Aprilia?) has good experience of Mercedes timing chains, at the moment I'm thinking about an early W124 E-class with a 2.0 engine that only has the single row chain.

It has the "classic" rattle for just a couple of seconds after startup which I think is the chain slapping about prior to the tensioner fully tensioning.

Taking advice there seems to be a fair difference in the repairs folks would do.

Some say the tensioner unscrews from the side of the block and changing this will efect a cure.

Others say do the tensioner and chain, their method being to cut the chain with an angle grinder over the cam pulley and join the new chain to old so it can be pulled through without removing the timing case.

Finally I've been told both the above are skimping and you should remove the timing case and replace the chain, tensioner and sprockets as a kit...also looking carefully at the tensioner "slipper".

This vehicle ought to have another ten years life so any repair needs to be more than a quick fix.

Thanks,

M.M
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Dynamic Dave

M.M,

I once had to change a cam chain on an old Honda CB500 DOHC motorbike engine. Surprise surprise, Haynes also suggested this method as well.

far0n

I'm thinking of buying a diesel Avensis but wanted to know how to tell the difference between the older pre-2000 2.0TD and the newer D-4D version. I've never seen under the bonnet of either so how can I tell ?

cheers
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far0n

A quick browse on google gave me this piccy....

tinyurl.com/snoa

So I assume I just open the bonnet and if it says D-4D then I\'m in luck.

link shortened, as was screwing up the page layout. DD.

Question c180 sport
peter1011

Hi,

I've recently bought a 1998 C180 sport.

Whilst driving in traffic recently, the BAS light came on for a second, and then went off again. It has done this several times. I have checked the brake fluid etc, and everything is normal. The ABS light doesnt come on with the BAS light, which leads me to believe that the ABS sensors must be ok.

Also, the car is a manual, and is constantly jumping out of 2nd gear.

Does anybody know what could cause these problem?

Thanks for any help!!

Peter

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Hawesy1982

I don't know if this is relevant to your car, but peugeot/citroen's often have this problem, usually caused by the gear linkages between gearstick and gearbox drying out and becoming stiff.

Before resorting to paying big money try just re-greasing each ball-joint carefully, only 10 minutes work but may solve your problem for good, it did on my 306.

Good luck

BobbyG

I will try and keep this short and sweet.

SWMBO scraped the Scenic down a wall, quote is about £500. scrape is on back passenger door and rear wing.

My insurance through Esure is £380 and full no claim protection, with an excess of £100. I realise that if I claim, I will keep my full NCB but the premium it is based on will be raised.

The question is - how much am I looking at for the increase? Any one any similar experience? Read more

Sooty Tailpipes

That's it, I have formed the opinion based on the last few month's experience, NEVER USE THE INSURANCE COMPANY'S APPROVED REPAIRER.

Question vectra advice
mav

hi i have been offered a 2000 x reg 2 litre vectra hatch gls with 81 k on the clock it a ex fleet car with full history how can i check the air con in this cold weather.

does this car suffer from cam belt problems that is mentioned elsewhere on this site.

what would the expected mpg be mainly on a run no town work really.

any other views or advice on this car most most welcome

thanks
rob
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superannuated rocker

I last bought a cam sensor two years ago and it then cost £35. Fitting is not that difficult if you are reasonably handy with the spanners.
SR

enr1

Is anyone a member of the above? Is it worthwhile to do the advanced test?

I am interested because I see on their website the package for test plus tuition is only £85. Is it worth it?
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borasport20

enr1 - I didn't think you were, otherwise you wouldn't have asked the question in the first place, indeed, you probably wouldn't be posting in the backroom.

It just strikes me that whilst there are some 19/20 yr olds who do have the maturity to take on board what IAM or Rospa teach, most of the Max Power readers would be bored stupid and brassed off after a couple of observed runs and would give up, never to return.

talk to matt, go and do it. If you develop the skills necessary for a proper commentary, your observation and anticipation will be well above average and your chances of staying out of somebody elses accident are so much greater


have fun


Bora - what Bora ?

arnold2

I always thought Toyota's were good cars - not exciting to drive, mind you, but in return you got something very reliable and with good customer services.

The gearbox on my 2001 vvti Corolla was faulty when I bought it in 2001 new - very notchy and difficult to use. Three Toyota dealers looked at it under warranty, all claimed it was fine, and refused to do anything.

At 95K miles the car started making a sound like a load of nails from the front. Into Toyota Cambridge - a very helpful dealer, BTW, unlike the others I used, and they diagnosed a gearbox fault - probably worn bearing/s. Cost - £300 plus whatever is wrong with it as they have to strip the whole gearbox down.

Letter to Toyota UK to see if they would help even in part, as, although out of warranty, the only reason the fault is there is because their dealers wouldn't fix it under warranty.

Response - as you guessed - they won't even help towards the cost at all.

Staggers me really - for some reason Golf 4's get a bad press on HJ for reliability, but our Beetle 1.6 (Golf 4 bits, after all) has been utterly reliable apart from 2 bin things where the lids have worked loose - and replaced under warranty.

If I had known about this, I would have got something interesting to drive, like a Leon - and I reckon it wouldn't have failed its gearbox in just over 2 years ! The new Corolla has the same gearbox - anyone out there having problems ?

So when renewal time comes up, Toyota is not going to be on my list !

Anyone out there no a good gearbox specialist, either around Cambridge, north of London or north London, that gives good service and won't try and tell me I need a whole new gearbox or something.

v. annoyed Toyota driver ! Read more

arnold2

I knew this would roll up some comments !

Take a look at toyotaownersclub.com; there are a lot of owners, especially the new Corolla, with a LOT of problems - but it is interesting that when I looked through most, they were either annoying electrics OR gearbox/clutch.

Personally, I think the engine/body/suspension on my Corolla is first rate, and will probably do a lot more miles, but that Toyota have an endemic gearbox/clutch fault here they are not letting on about...

I think HJ needs to update his breakdown for the Corolla !