August 2023
Hi all,
I have registered to ask for advice and apologies for the long wall of text below.... Read more
Not a great surprise although still very sad. The local Branch to me has had poor stock levels for quite a few months and at times when I was there it looked like there were more staff than customers. Too much competition from the likes of Home Bargains and The Range plus being town centre focused probably has done them in.
I will still miss them - quite decent range of DIY tools and vehicle bits and bobs.... Read more
Interesting how we all have different experiences and opinions. I pick up Matchbox cars or Majorettes (French equivalent) from car boot sales that are shabby and renovate them. I find Tamiya a bit thin, it's easy to get runs and the last can I bought which was orange I didn't like the colour at all. It was different to the indicated colour. I find Humbrol to be slightly thicker and the colour accurate.
I always find for cars using automotive spray paints gave the best results - assuming you are spraying them. Used to use them for the bodies and Revell acrylics mainly for the insides...mainly building Tamiya and Revell kits...don't have the time as much now to do them but have a few kits in to eventually get round to.
I've just bought a 2011 Kia Rio 1.4 petrol. There's much to like about the car but having driven it for quite few hours, now, I have to say I find it most uncomfortable to drive. One reason for this is that the clutch is on the heavy side and the biting point is near to the floor. It bites smoothly without judder, and gear changes are absolutely fine, but driving in stop-start traffic is really hard work and I have to sit nearer the steering wheel than i'd like because of the very low biting point. So...
Is there some way to adjust the bite point of the clutch?
Is there likely to be a way to make the clutch lighter?
Or is the only way to resolve this a totally new clutch?!
Just want to know if the above may be possible before I visit a mechanic. Thanks! Read more
i would have thought a low biting point was a good sign. maybe get use to it .just feels different to want your use to
So would I. Have you checked the fluid?
My Focus is in the garage and I probably will want to replace it when/if it ever gets fixed.
It's a nice size for me, I use it for commuting to work 90% of the time and weekends away with other half 5 or 6 times a year.
My new house has a narrow drive so I thought about a slightly smaller car. A hire car I've just had was a Corsa. It was surprisingly good. Spacious and fast enough. Only problem is the drivers space. A bit too tight for XXL me. Also the pedal area too small for my big feet.
Are there any cars in the same bracket that have more space in the front? The Honda Jazz seems to make good use of it's space, and it's on my shortlist, but I'm not keen on it's looks.
My next thought was a small SUV type, such as the Ford Puma. Presumably more space in a car with similar width. I like the looks of the Kia Xceed so thats on the list.
Jazz, Puma, Xceed. Any others?
I'm probably looking at two year old cars, although if I get mugged with the Focus, I might be looking at spending as little as 15k. Any thoughts?
Am I wrong to think there would be more space in the drivers seat, in a Puma than a Fiesta? It could be the same just higher up? Read more
@SLO76
CX-3 is a great idea.
I'm not sure of they will fit the drive better than a Focus, but i do like the looks of them, and read some good reviews.
They don't seem that powerful for a 2.0 maybe I read the stats wrong.
Yaris.. I love these but they are just too small. I love the Yaris Crossover but I think it's too new to be in my price range.
The CX-3 in 2L SA-G form (120PS) is fine, no peppy car in terms of performance, but like all modern Mazdas, excellent handling and decent looks. I test drove one (a 2L Sport Nav auto) and I liked it more than the equivalent engined (gen-3 [2017]) Mazda3....
We’re currently considering replacing our 2012 1.6 petrol c-max as it is currently requiring more and more expensive repairs. Lately it’s just had a new alternator and heater matrix along with a few electrical issues too.
We’ve got about £11000 to spend on the ideal car and we’re considering a 1.0 Skoda Octavia, Hyundai i40 1.7 (both 2018) or a Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV (2015).
We want space (family of 4 currently), reliability and as much longevity as possible.
Looking for opinions what car you’d go for in our circumstances or if you’d keep paying more on the c-max? Read more
Whatever you choose, make sure its had a new alternator and heater matrix recently, and had its electrical issues sorted out...oh wait...
www.honestjohn.co.uk/news/driving/2023-08/governme.../
I have a preview of this, since the motorways here (ironically called "Freeways") in Taiwan are charged.... Read more
Moderation issues are dealt with by email, this has been the position since the Backroom first started in 2000 so should not be news to anyone. It's in the Sticky thread at the top of the forum as well. As well as keeping any potential private matters off the forum, it also just keeps things tidy.
The post above was raised as it was felt by us that an explanation about why we try and keep threads from deviating too much in Motoring might be useful to the wider audience. We occasionally receive complaints about threads getting hijacked....
Hi,
... Read more
Watched the video.
Man, that was some deep hole right there. Imagine if you were a cyclist going into that, you'd never get out!...
Does anyone know how to remove the white plastic housing which contains two controllers and a fuse box on the passenger side under the scuttle and next to the suspension mount? I have one with a burst brake pipe underneath this housing and need to remove it so I can access the pipe to replace it. There is also an air pump at the bottom of the housing which connects to a duct under the dash on the passenger side inside the car.
Many thanks in advance if anyone knows or has ever done this. Read more
I’m not sure at all . Never done it on one of these . It’s possibly bonded to the bulkhead, as it needs to be a water tight joint to prevent water entry to the cabin .
Thank you for your reply. Much appreciated.
My recently bought Mk2 Jazz does not come with spare wheel (it was an option). I’d like to put a spare steely from an old car. It’s slightly different size. Jazz = 175/65/15. Spare wheel is 175/65/14. Will this cause any issues? Other than aesthetics. It’ll only be short term until the punctured tyre can be repaired/replaced? Read more
So essentially, if I look for any wheel where the tyre says 175/65/15 that’ll do?
No, No, No! As has been stated above, you need the correct PCD and take into consideration the wheel diameter, width and offset.
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I have tried to let my insurance company know but as I elected to deal with the third party, they said they could not assist. ...