October 2022
I just had a test drive in one of these. I wasn't planning to buy one before, but my local garage is an excellent Seat franchise, so I thought it was worth a look.
A very odd car. Very comfy, but the interior is all a bit...grey. The much-hated heater controls seem absolutely fine to me. It's got unnecessary emergency braking, but no adaptive cruise.... Read more
I saw a car for sale. It is a 2017 Honda. I was a bit surprised to see rusty bolts. Even the metal piece, north of the radatior cap shows low level bubbling. Why is this happening?
cloudstatic.cargiant.co.uk/VehicleImages/Live/up1/...g
If this Honda is like this after 5 years. What else is going to be rusty?... Read more
I have an ancient bottle of Kurust for just such superficial early corrosion. Apply with tiny paint brush. I wouldn't waste it on big bolts, though. They just get a dab of old engine oil.
I have had my car in a local garage for about 3 weeks getting a head gasket replaced, new rocker cover and spark plug and and skim etc.
I got my car back yesterday and there is now a trickling/liquid sound coming from the car. Doesnt seem like there are any oil leaks in the engine bay and it would appear the coolant is stable. I have also noticed that the engine appears to be very hot when you stop (have been checking for leaks etc periodically).... Read more
Sounds like air in the system. Some cars (VW Golf seems to get special mention) are difficult to fill
My 2001 1.4 16v Octavia(same oily bits as similar Golf) was a doddle to fill after a new radiator was fitted - After filling kept squeezing large hoses and topping up then run up to temperature (fans running) with the header tank cap removed. Checked level and replaced cap - job done - perfect thereafter. Header tank is high up with pipes feeding from many places.
A previous Fiat Punto was a nightmare to bleed as the "header tank" was at low level next to the radiator feeding the cooling system from the bottom. No wonder head gaskets used to fail shortly after a coolant refresh!! It had bleed valves near the heater matrix. Myself I chose to refresh the coolant live - filling and draining at the same time. Wasteful but no air introduced in the system....
Hi all,
On Saturday, I took a 2012 i20 with 50k miles on the clock for a test drive, it drove fine, sounded normal, tidy inside and out, went home and slept on it, took it for another test drive on Sunday morning, when I returned it to the dealership, I opened the bonnet again and spotted a bit of oil on the alternator housing and on the aux belt, I couldn't tell where it had come from and I can't say if it was there on Saturday when I first looked at it or not.
I've put a deposit down on the agreement that I'm happy the oil leak has been resolved, I can be informed of what has been repaired or replaced and I can take it for another decent test drive.
EDIT - The garage are selling it with an MOT which looks like it has just been done according to the MOT Check Gov website, the cause of the leak looks to be as below, not being a mechanic I'm not 100% sure how serious this is and how they would repair it, can someone help me out here?
- Oil leaking excessively from engine front timing cover (8.4.1 (a) (i))"
I'm hoping it's nothing serious as the car is a decent price and ticks all the right boxes, but I'm willing to walk away if it's serious.
Thanks in advance
Adam Read more
Not sure what triggered the pile-on on this occasion, but you get used to it.
Anyway, it all depends on the diagnosis of the problem and quality of the repair. It sounds like it's probably the gasket in the timing cover has gone. It's a cheap and easy fix to repair....
The lovely Kerridges has gone into administration 18 months after stopping selling the chinese Mg range and becoming a used specialist sports car dealer.
Sad days for all. Read more
I met him a number of times when I bought a car from Kerridges and when car came back for servicing or repairs. He was real old school a very nice man and he had a first class dealership. The service department was second to none.
I remember Ford selling Focus dual fuel cars in France back in 2006. Never took off due to limited opportunities to refuel.
... Read more
How can E85 be making a comeback, in the UK we have never had it and the cars sold here are not capable of using it as far as I know.
Companies need to invest in the technology people will use in the future and not this nonsense....
So i've been looking for a used car for a while and see that most cars are out of my price range. I'm shocked at the prices nowadays.
The car i own now is pretty old. Citroen C3 1.4. I bought it 11 years ago and it was 8 years old. I paid £3200 back then. Which i could just about afford. The car had low mileage of about 53, 000 and it was in great condition. I bought it because it suited my needs at the time and I bought almost straight away when I saw in on the forecourt. No long searches like now.... Read more
To the OP,
I share you frustration and so do many others regarding prices .
My good friend this week purchased a Cat N car which means it’s been in a crash but not structural damage (that would be a cat S car).
He got a Suzuki Celerio 18 plate with 36,000 miles and a service history including the copart report and photos of the cars damage so he could examine exactly where it had been repaired.
The car came with a fresh service and a brand new 12 month MoT all for the price of £3900 m which is considerably cheaper than the cheapest forecourt price for a similar aged and mileage of around £7,000.
He would never consider a car that had been in an accident and repaired but current car prices and his budget determined this to be the best option.
There are pitfalls, it will be worth less than a non recorded car when he sells it but he paid far less so no big deal.
You do have to be careful, any seller not wanting to disclose the post accident pictures should be avoided or spend £10 for a car check which normally will link you to the copart auction sales picture of the car in a damaged state.
A full test drive is a must, likewise make sure you know what your looking for and even consider spending £50 on having your local mechanic attend to give his thoughts,
Also you need to choose more simplistic cars that are easier to fix.
Why?
A simple Suzuki Celerio has cheap parts, plenty of bolt on parts and not many gizmos or gadgets to go wrong.
The more technology and higher the original price of the car, generally the more difficult they are to put right after an accident regardless if they are Cat N or Cat S.
I was watching a YouTube video today of a salvage mechanic who had purchased a fire damaged Audi A1 and was having to replace the wiring loom for the entire car which involved stripping out the entire interior! A huge undertaking,
Good Afternoon Forum Members,
So tomorrow I’m suppose to be going to pick up a newer used car.
I currently own a 2008 1.8 petrol Honda Civic on 110k (Manual), personally I’ve had nothing but issues with it since owning it for 2 years, had the mobile mechanic out today to tidy up a partly finished repair from before, before trading it in.
The car I’m supposed to be getting is a 70k, 2015 Volvo XC60 SE LUX auto 2.4 D5 AWD. Full Volvo service history and comes with a 12 month Volvo Selekt unlimited mileage warranty.
So the mechanic basically talked to me as if I’m crazy, why would I get rid of the Honda, and that Volvo are awful cars and I will have nothing but issues.
I did explain to him I had this Volvo model before and loved it and had no issues whatsoever, and he basically said I must of got lucky.
Now I’m totally second guessing myself… Read more
Normally that Civic would've done a decent job. Maybe you were unlucky.
condenser and compressor seem a common problem on Civics including mine but price of repair has put me off doing it as its £850 to fix both. but may think about it in a few months due to state of second hand cars on the market ...
Have had a few conversations recently about Employers being unable to hire staff, and no apprentices coming through. seems that nobody is interested in doing this sort of work.
Even the fast fit fitters are having trouble recruiting. Read more
Mechanics working on Japanese and Korean cars may not need be so experienced as mostly they see cars under warranty needing simple maintenance.
My local Joint Suzuki and Fiat / Alfa Romeo dealer employed separate mechanics for both marques....
Evening folks, having only just joined the forum my apologies if my question is out of context or in the wrong section.
... Read more
Yeah I actually test drove one, always been a fan of the cars it just felt a tad sluggish I expected a little more to be honest
I think most people on here have a modicum of mechanical sympathy. I’d never drive a petrol or diesel car hard on a cold engine. With my current Kuga PHEV, I try to do the same. I can get from home to work on battery, but there are only a couple of places where it’s safe to overtake and you really want the extra punch of the petrol engine then, so that you’re minimising your time on the wrong side of the road.
I get the petrol engine to kick in a mile or so before I’m going to get it working hard, so that it’s at least a little bit warmed up first.
I’ve got mine (company car) for the lower benefit in kind taxation than a conventional petrol or diesel, but I do plug it in. We get reimbursed for business mileage at the HMRC rates, which vary be engine size, so the better the MPG I can get from it, the better for my pocket. I’ve average 119 mpg over 24,000 miles so far. To be fair, that doesn’t reflect the cost of home charging, but on an EV night rate, it’s still only around £1 for a full charge, which gives around 30 miles range on winter and up to around 45 miles in summer.