July 2015
I have unresolved problems with difficult noisy clattering sound when starting from hot. apart from that the car runs brilliantly.
Have tried just about everything without success.
Avon remapping say they have a solution to this by a stage 1 remap of the ECU.
They say this is a common fault with Mk 1v golf diesels.
Has anyone any experience of this and is it safe? Read more
I need a 7 seater now that my parents have given up driving so I can take them, their friends and us all out together. I settled on an updated Citroen Berlingo Multispace with the Family Pack as it is cheap to buy, cheap to run and has sliding doors which are easier for ageing parents to use.
In June I saw an offer on the HJ website from Drive the Deal for the exact car I wanted at £10495 so I placed an order. After some time it transpired that the dealer could not honour the price I had been quoted but could do it for @£12600 instead. As this was more than I wanted to pay, I declined.... Read more
It was an unbelivable deal on the 7 seat Berlingo Multispaces that drive the deal offered, I wanted one as well.
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Once tyres are set to correct pressure and tyre monitor is activated is there any need to regularly check pressure with a tyre gauge? Read more
Yes and it clearly states this in the manual.
TPMS is not a substitute for regular checks and maintenance. It only allerts when pressure falls by a certain percentage, in my BMW that equated to about 10 psi. By spotting the pressure drop before TPMS allerts you there is a greater chance of getting the tyre repaired....
This was posted on the website of a company-"Angel Tuning" Is it correct?
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I can't speak for all cars but on Peugeots the DPF housing is usually opened and the insides gutted. The ECU is remapped and the MOT centre is none the wiser. There are owners on the Peugeot forums with gutted DPFs and their cars have still passed the MOT.
Personally I'd rather just have the car as it was when it came out of the factory. Replacement DPFs aren't that expensive, particularly if you don't go to a dealer....
When I acquired my car, the radio cassette was not working, due to there being nowhere to enter the code on the display, which was blank. I bought a replacement radio from ebay last week, but upon fitting it, the problem stays the same, a blank display. What could be wrong? Read more
Thanks, I'll give that a try.
Unfortunately you won''t be able to see any info here due to the new ban to links to other websites. If you go to the website of a weekly car magazine you will find out more. The one I'm meaning isn't the one with an 'x' in the name. Read more
They are all in the showrooms in Europe and available to buy any colour as long as it does not have Air Con.The Niva is still the same only its available in 5 door version still a rust bucket just a bit cleaner and changed its name.
The Lada Niva has always been called the Niva for export markets, here in Russia it is sold as a VAZ model and has pretty much always been available here as a 5 door under model VAZ 2131. ...
I need an economical car for a 40 mile daily commute that will on occasion accommodate my wife and three tall teenagers - Possibly even for European holidays? Currently we use a Fiat Panda, mainly for my commute, and a Honda Shuttle (old but good) for the family. I am thinking of a Honda Civic or perhaps an Accord estate, or maybe a Corolla Verso or a Ford C-Max, of conceivably a Skoda. Ideally the budget is under £6,000. Any thoughts?? Read more
Had 5 tall adults in a skoda rapid yesterday, plenty of space and a huge boot yet the cars dimensions are not to big.
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I need an economical car for a 40 mile daily commute that will on occasion accommodate my wife and three tall teenagers - Possibly even for European holidays? Currently we use a Fiat Panda, mainly for my commute, and a Honda Shuttle (old but good) for the family. I am thinking of a Honda Civic or perhaps an Accord estate, or maybe a Corolla Verso or a Ford C-Max, of conceivably a Skoda. Ideally the budget is under £6,000. Any thoughts?? Read more
Apologies I've posted this twice by mistake!
The new C Class now has an 'e' plug in, but I see it weighs significantly more, and loses quite a bit of boot space too. I guess the mpg of over 100 may seem worth it. But the initial sale price seems massive.
I can't see any earlier discussion of the merits of hybrids, diesel or petrol-based, so apologies if I'm covering old ground, but what are your views on them. Are they just for wealthy, high energy users, to appease their consciences?! Read more
The economics of a new car never makes sense to anyone, OAP or not - unless it's a very cheap car to begin with. If you buy an £8K car you can only ever lose £8k.
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Away fro home for 5 weeks and would like to put battery on trickle charge with CTEC charger.
It's a diesel and on reading the manual it caters for jump starting using a donor veh/ battery but no mention is made of trickle charging!
I would be most grateful if you would please advise me thus:-
do I need to disconnect the battery;
do I connect the negative charging lead to a point on the engine;
Is it possible to leave the battery connected but connect the battery leads thus:-
Positive lead from charger to positive terminal of battery;
negative charging lead to point on engine?
Is there any known problem with this vehicle and battery charging or loss of charge?
Regards
Frank McAuley
07764254515.
Read more
I've used a CTEK on various cars without disconnecting the battery, and I leave one on my MX5 throughout the winter when it is used infrequently (that car also has a small battery).
You are correct to say that the ground/black lead (-ve earth) should technically be connected to the frame away from the battery and from fuel pipes. This is to reduce the chance of any sparks when you disconnect (black lead first) igniting any fuel vapour, or any hydrogen in the vicinity of the battery. In practice this is pretty unlikely. It's a simple precaution. In any case I always plug in the charger after connecting the clips, and unplug it before disconnecting. There are no handy unpainted surfaces in the boot of the MX5 where the battery lives so I connect to both terminals....


My mistake it is actually a MkV blue motion.
Thanks for the replies so far. the remap firm do state that a stage 1 remap only puts everything back to a factory setting but widens the tolerances to make up for any wear, so no need to tell the Insurance Company!
So far I've changed the temp senser, DMF, particulate filter, starter motor, the only other thing I can think of is the battery, so perhaps do that first?