February 2013
Hi all I have a 1996 Vauxhall Combo 1.7D... My alternator has packed up so got a new one, but I have a problem the new one I have got has 4 pin connector yet my old one was only 2 pin.. So my question is can I convert a 4 pin connector to a 2 pin??
Any advice would be greatly appreciated...
Many Thanks In Advance..
Jason..
Read more:http://www.diynot.com/forums/automotive-repairs/vauxhall-combo-alternator-problem.354067/#2666360#ixzz2K16SJe5n Read more
If you had £2500 to spend on a used automatic car which must be 1.3 or under to keep insurance price low and what would you get ??
i had a ford fiesta for £500 than has been nothing but trouble so i would like a reliable car to get me and from work Read more
Thread closed. For some doubtless excellent reason Jamie2012 has started a new thread on the same subject.
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Or if all else fails weld a nut on the end.
My wife has a 03/2009 1.5 dci and I'd just like to clarify if something is a fault or not, please.
Basically as you pull away (low revs), or go a little hard on the engine, there is a distinctive metallic chain like rattling sound, which only lasts for a few seconds, seemingly coming from just below the bottom of the windscreen, obviously engine compartment ?. This rattle has been present since getting the car from a dealer (last year), it doesn't annoy the boss (wife), and tbh I only notice it when I'm in the car because I'm "looking for it", It's our first Note so tbh I don't know if they all do it ?.. I have heard a newer Juke make the same sound in the past. I believe the car has a cam belt, not a chain which was my first thought, the oil level is fine, (the car seems to use very little oil), it's done 38k and is not quite 4 years old, a belt change is due 72k or 5 years, so essentially I'll need to replace the belt within a year, unless someone can make another recommendation. Any ideas please is this a problem or not, several times I have thought it might me the windscreen but everything seems fine ?. Any info/advice would be greatly appreciated. Read moreCheck the exhaust heat sheilding aswell though...these like to rattle on Renault diesels so the Nissan may well have a similar arrangement.
I had 3 replacements on a Megane 1.5 dCi years ago.
I'm going to be buying a Beetle in a few months and after experiencing HG failure on a couple of cars, i'm wondering if it's generally acceptable to do a sniff test when checking the car out?
Would you be ok with someone doing that if you were selling a car? Read more
The engine that is least prone to issues in the Beetle is the comparatively rare 1.8 Turbo, but it blends power and economy the best and came with a few extra toys. Its the one I would seek out if I was after one.
The thing that gets the Beetle a thumbs up from me is that the ride and refinement is much superior to either the 500 or the Mini. The Mini handles the best of course but they do like to rattle a bit, and the first gen 'new Mini' has a rather course Chrysler derived engine that can be prone to headgasket failure too.
The selection of 1st gear is almost imposible after stopping and going into neutral. I left Portsmouth today to drive to Mid Wales. I got stuck at the Toll and when I left the M4 at J24 A449, stopped at the red lights and almost got taken out when I couldn't engage 1st gear, final got into 2nd. It happened 3 more times at Stop junctions. Anyone had similar problems with a Nissan qashqai? Read more
must be under warranty, take it to a Nissan dealer
Hi everyone. Ever since a cowboy 'mechanic' on a mobile van rescued my SIGNUM DIESEL after a wrong fuel incident, the TURBO has been giving me problems and the car has had considerably less power, and most especially a sudden loss after i rev the engive over 2500 revs at any given gear. Subsequently, the cruise speed fails to engage.
i meant cowboy because he seemed to have been doing lots of guess work, including extended play with the air filter and turbo hoses, to the point that he failed to re-start the car for about four hours (this after he had officially "cleared the injectors/pump, etc.."!!! Weeks later the turbo stopped giving power after aforementioned revs, and now the car is going at roundabout speed in low gears, and at a maximum of 55 mph in the motorway. I have tried many garages but, as they all differ on id'ing the fault, i decided not to pay until two or three people diagnosed it correctly. ... Read more
It looks like your problem stems from some idiot misfueling your vehicle!
Considering you are subsequently slagging off everybody who's tried to help, I wouldn't bank on getting any help or sympathy here.
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All,
I've read two seperate motoring journalist sources saying that, in the not too distant future, cars without 'city' emergency braking systems, such as those on the latest Volvos, Fords and optional on some Fiats, will suffer insurance premium penalties.... Read more
the sensible option is to offer a discount to those with the system.
Sure-if it actually reduces the likelihood of an accident. This is not a given because complacency tends to creep in when the user feels that something is safe. ...
... to perverting the course of justice. I can't see him getting back into the cabinet, and should he remain as an MP? It is fraud after all. Read more
Oh Lord, don't let's get onto the EU ... At least they ensure that our fruit are properly proportioned.
Actually they don't. I'm one of Earths biggest EU critics but as far as I can find there's never actually been an EU rule stating banana can be 'too bendy.' Daily Express myth went viral I think....


Hi Jason, I've looked at the Remy website and there are two alternators specified for your vehicle. DRA3296 - a four pin connector and DRA3545 - a two pin connector. These are engine number specific and it looks like you have been given the incorrect one. Looking at the wiring for them it is clear they are not interchangeable - that is, you can't wire one up to fit the other. The four pin has wiring for a control relay which the two pin does not.
The only thing I can suggest is to take it back and get the correct one as it is not suitable for your type of wiring. at least you know that the replacement you need is a DRA3545 (or equivalent manufacturer)....