December 2010
I've had my 320d M Sport for nearly three years now, done 45k miles and I've found its handling superb - until recently. Now it's become hard work on long journeys and very difficult to describe why, although my wife has also commented that all is not well. While it doesn't obviously pull to one side or the other, on bumpy roads it seems to take a lot of work to keep the car going straight. It's as if when the wheels are knocked off centre by a bump, they don't want to go back to centre again. The sensation is that the car lurches about but with no obvious effect on smooth roads. The dealer has visually examined the suspension and steering, done a drive test and come up with nothing. I'm going to get the tracking tested by an independent (BMW want a small fortune just to check it), but has anyone got any ideas? The suggestion I heard recently was a faulty steering sensor but I'm not sure what sensor that would be.
Just aquired vehicle last week & it has started to rev very fast one minute & then slow the next. Pulled into petrol station yesterday, went in fine. Went to exit petrol station on to dual carriage way & could not get it over 30mph.
Does any one have any idea as to why this is happening.?? Read more
I have same experience and worse but slightly further down the line. Bought Pinin 2.0 in Jan 2011 and has run fine since but a tad thirsty and sooty round the exhaust. And then ...
Suggest you sit down first and type Mitsubishi GDI engine problems into Google and then take a deep breath as you start to feel sick. Basicaly they get carboned up but you can read the whole sorry history about the why on google. My symptoms more or less amae as yours and came on overnight and stayed. Undriveable. Ecotek Powerboost down the inlet didnt work (expected but worth a try as its low cost). Am currently having the throttle body reconditioned (£250 all in by ECU Testing Ltd - BBA are another alternative - both have websites). I was not obviously carboned up badly but the moving parts were very gummed up and part seized. It could not have been metering air correctly...
Long time since I posted but I thought I'd let you all know about my year driving a Yeti (now replaced with an Octavia!).
I have never kept any car for long and at 1 year / 10K miles the Yeti lasted longer than most recent cars (Lexus GS300, Octavia MKII 1.8 TSi, Roomster 2 1.9 TDi, x2 MKI Octavia vRS's, Qashqai 1.6 and Merc CLK).
It was definitely a distinctive car and on more than a few occasions I found random people asking me what it was etc.
Over the first year / 10K miles it required no oil or coolant whatsoever.
The tyres at 10K miles were 1/3 worn on the front and appeared virtually unworn on the back
I had 3 unscheduled visits to the main dealer
* ECU Flashed / interior bulb replaced
* Cam position sensor replaced after ESP failure popped up on the maxidot
* Passenger rear door lock replaced after child locks/central locking failed.
... Read more
I had stone chipping with Primeras on the rear wheel arc, and the transparent protection was fitted to reduce it.
however on two xtrails T30, T31, no stone chips, if you look at the sill area you will see why, it effectively comes out a couple of inches, so is a very effective stone guard....
hi there new here but the other day i got my self a littel corsa b van 1.4 merit i have look at the fuse box all fuse's are okay, a volt meter was put on the conections of the stereo plug in the car and there was no power at all evan with the ignition on nothink happens at all
i dont really wanna mess about with it but a friend of mine who also has a corsa cant find the problem but would really like to fix this asap as i have a long trip to make and would be nice to have some music Read more
Thanks for the tip, Victorbox. At the time that we were trying to sort the problem, none of the websites/forums alluded to the ignition switch as a separate component. When the weather warms up, I'll have another look at fixing it - it would be far more convenient if we didn't have to remember to remove the radio front after every trip.
Hi
Have noticed in this cold weather Car is getting harder to start. Recently serviced,new battery Jan 2009.... Read more
Cheers, as I said I electively changed the battery when the car was 5 yrs old, as my brother had been caught out with sudden battery failure on his diesel mondeo at a similar car age. The replacement battery fitted was a fast fit centre one, no idea what spec, just it had a 3 year gaurentee.. 3 years ago virtually to the date now..
...
An electrical engineer tested my wifes car today as she has been having a few problems with her car. The first problem he located was the heater pack needs replacing, which is about £15 from fords and seems easy to do. The main problems is that her rear heater and other electrical switchs dont always work and he said this was down to the body controller. Does he mean the ECU ? If so I understand the ECU is located or near the glove compartment when removed. So QUESTION. If I get a replacement, as I've seen on ebay from a breakers yard, as long as I match the year built and the model engine size it should be okay to swap out, Yes ? What is the code that is supplied with the unit and how do you input the code, or does this require a specialist ? The guy quoted £500 to replace the body controller and said the whole dash has to come out ?? Read more
The body control module is known as the Gems module.This controls most of the timed functions on the car.Interior lights,hazards,indicators,wiper delay and front and rear heated screens.It is located above the accelerator pedal and takes around 10 mins to change.It is housed in a black plastic case with around 5 or 6 multiconnectors attached.These do sometimes give trouble and cause the hrw to malfunction.A new unit is around £200.They are not coded to the car but need the correct configuration for all the car functions to operate .A s/hand could be used,but a similar part no will not necessarily give the same configuration .hth
Does anyone else have a crummy heater? I have been told by a plant technician that the diesel-engined cars don't have as good heaters as the petrol versions, but 45 minutes to get vaguely warm sounds a bit off. What can anyone else suggest? Read more
For any vehicle waiting 45 minutes before getting any warm air suggests a problem, does the temperature gauge register anything? If not I'd start with the thermostat then move on to the heater matrix and associated items.
Thanks to supplementary heaters the last four diesels I've owned have had warm air after about a minute, but the temperature gauge takes about 10 miles to read 'normal'.
From start up and moving off the ABS system kicks in then after about a minute it goes off and the light appears on the dash, normal braking but no ABS, changed the front two wheel sensors but no difference.Car has done 160,000 so i'm guessing now it's a more serious problem, i don't think it's the pump but in the book it shows ECU attached to side of the pump so i was wondering if anyone else has have a similar problem with either the Rover 75 or cars with similar ABS systems at can point me in the right direction, would a plug in at the garage indicate with a fault code what the failure is?
All help gratefully received... Read more
"the wiring loom to the ECU module tend to fill with water in where it runs in the n/s chassis leg & the water rots the loom & the ECU terminals. "
This area is the most common area for ABS faults, check under the battery. Do not pull the wiring loom around untill you are ready to check it thourghly because if its rotten when you touch it , it may fragment!...
Is this type of handbrake troublefree and effective ? Read more
Anyone who buys a Renault with an electronic handbrake appaears naive and unaware of Renault's long standing inability to make their electrics reliable.
...
Hi I have just had my Gold 1.9d wrote off by a guy in a land rover!! I have seen a 25 Diesel for sale on decent mileage and cheap. I know the petrol’s are poor reliability wise. What are the diesels like reliability wise? The Golf was reliable and that was 15 years old. I wouldn’t get another as it was really slow. I believe they are coa*** but that doesn’t bother me as they are pretty quick and have decent MPG figures. I don’t want people telling me I should get £5k together and get a Golf etc as I have not got that kind of money. Read more
I had a 45 diesel in 2001 for 2 years, same engine. Forget all the rubbish you are reading about spares. X-part and any dealer who still has access to them can supply most of the bits you are liable to need. I invite anyone to do withX-parts to comment on this. When I asked a question of technical support at x part last year about HGF on the k series Mgzt !.8 turbo I was told that if the head was in tolerance and the water pump was changed and new original head bolts were fitted and the work was done by an x-part repairer the work would be warranteed by x-part as normal. Yes Mg/Rover are gone, but spares support is there for most things mechanical except trim.
Try also Rimmers and the MG/Rover forums. If you are near Bristol Wilcox in wickwar will be helpful and they've also got various cars.If the price is right and the condition ok get it, just insist on a new mot so it will just have had a smoke test....
Browse
.jpg)
I bought new Bridgestone runflats - and the problem persists!
Then, at great expense, I got the RAC to do an independent inspection - the kind they will do when you are buying a car....