May 2010

BorisTheSpider

Hidden above post.

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Shane_1

Hi,

Im new to this so sorry if this has been answered before.

I recently bought a Pug 306 XSI 1996. Everything seemed fine at first, but now it is overheating and the raidator is cold. Both pipes are hot, but the heater is blowing luke warm air (not sure if thats relevant).

Fisrt thing i noticed was what i thought was a water leak, but it turned out to be water being pushed back out of the overflow pipe. After topping the tank back up, the same thing kept happening.

Now the car is getting up to 110 degree's, and i dont know whats wrong.

I have tried using a header tank to bleed the system, and the bleed valves have released water.

Is it something as simple as a blocked raidiator or something more sinister.

Thanks
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Shane_1

Changed the thermostat, but after 8/10 miles the water backs up out of the water tank. Bleed it twice, but i heard these a right pigs to do.

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Peter

I have received a letter from this organisation and on viewing the web, not too many people are complementary about their practices. An article in the Observer recommends contacting the Trading Standards local to the company.

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Manatee

I'd like to comment more fully but sadly some relevant information has been needlesly 'moderated' out.

I'm pretty sure I know who you're talking about, but there may be others. If it's the one I think it is, they have almost certainly obtained your data illegally from the installer. Did you get the call shortly after having having the installation? If so, I'd ask them where they obtained your details....

nowthenhonest

Kia Sedona 2.9TDi (Year 2000)

We have just swapped the engine on my Sedona for another Year 2000 engine (about 9 months younger). It turns the engine over but will not fire.... Read more

topbloke

that i dont know, as most pumps are coded to the vehicle just thought that i would point it out as its easily overlooked,Reagards TB

Clanger

During the week I had the air con recharged for Mrs C at Kwik Fit Northallerton. The print out reported taking 150g refrigerant out and putting 600g back in with no leaks detected. The manager said that the temperature drop on testing was satisfactory. The air seemed cold on the way back home.

At the weekend Mrs C reported that she couldn't tell that it was getting cold. On checking I found that the radiator cooling fan wasn't spinning, which it should when the air con is switched on. During my checking of fuses and looking for corroded contacts, the fan started up but spun very slowly and then stopped. I found that the nearby relay was energised and 12v seemed to be on its way to the fat fan wires.

Anyone care to speculate if I am just looking at a knackered fan motor or should I be looking somewhere else as well. The manual doesn't mention a fuse for the cooling fan; is one hidden away somewhere?

TIA... Read more

eustace

The car costs £ 3500. Its a 2005/55 registration and has run 42000 miles. It's a Cerato 1.5 CRDi GS

My concerns about this car:-... Read more

eustace

I intend to start a new post about an Elantra I am considering. Your advice would be espescially welcome.

Pejay

Hi, Does anyone know what the torque settings should be on the two bolts that hold the water pump? The Haynes manual gives them for the large and small impeller housing bolts (Not sure what these are). But there is no mention as far as I can see, of the actual pump bolts. The instructions that came with the new pump says to tighten to the specified torque.

Maybe I am worrying too much and the torque isn't critical. It's just that I have been struggling to do this pump and cam-belt job and am thinking that if I haven't got it quite right, I may get it all back together and find it leaks!... Read more

Pejay

Thanks for the reply Peter. I took your advice and just used a small ring spanner. They were only 6mm Dia bolts, so I guess they could have easily been snapped. Anyway, I finished the cambelt etc today and it doesn't leak! Good point about different length spanners for different diameter bolts. It had never occurred to me before as to why!

zookeeper

hi room, was doing the pre MOT check over, apart from the split in the back box i noticed the sill rear of driver door very bad, its the car outer skin that wraps under the sill thats gone

but its solid underneath that, so is it cosmetic or a fail?... Read more

Jaynesaxton

My Chrysler Voyager 2.5 diesel 2001 (y reg) cuts out at idol/low revs and the idol speed dips and rises on its own without touching the accelarator. I am particularly concerned as sometimes the engine cuts out when pulling away from a junction and leaves us stranded in the middle of the road. A local independent garage has suggested the injectors may need replacing but they are not sure and we do not want to pay for guess work. Please help! Read more

andrewn1975

I am currently having the same problem and being told by chrysler there is no problem. I have found lots of people who have the same problem now, so its proof there is something wrong with the car. I am trying to get in touch with everyone so we have proof of a bigger issue. I am currently taking this up with the ceo of chrysler the the MD of Fiat in the UK.

please email me with your details. Many thanks...

Pablo202

Hi,

If any of you read my last problem with this car....you'll know that I have tried and tried to sort it's little problems.... Read more

Peter.N.

Have you done a brim to brim tank test to make sure this is the mileage? How many miles have you tested it over? Are you sure someone is not nicking your petrol?