February 2010
SWMBO is developing a hankering for a car to replace the x-reg Audi A4 which has been a great car. She's a bit of a badge snob and wants an A3 sportback, but I'm trying to get her to consider a Golf or Leon with similar (SE) spec. I don't think a Skoda would be on the cards! Probably go for the 1.4 122PS engine. Prices on drivethedeal seem remarkably similar for Golf and A3, bit lower for Leon.
Is the A3 a newish model or is it due for replacement?
Does anyone have any advice? Read more
Following my earlier thread about service intervals, I had a look at the online booking form.
tinyurl.com/ycn7pwy
Looks like the service is £175 (I am assuming that the first 12 month service is an interim service), but on the form there are 4 items that they claim are "Ford recommendations", specifically:
* Air con treatment
* Pollen filter replacement
* Oil-top up
* Brake fluid change
Elsewhere on the page there are prices for the pollen filter (£39.99), the air con treatment (£29.99) and the brake fluid change (£55). There is no indication of a price for the oil top up.
Because these are not included in the main service price, I am guessing that they must purely be optional extras, so not having them done would still mean that the car had a full service history. Is that right?
I always thought that oil top up was something that you would do yourself (I checked it a while back and the level was fine). Maybe for the convenience it would be OK to have it done during the service, but as an optional extra I guess they would plan to charge (although I also expected that a bit of extra oil would be included, must only take a few seconds).
Just wondered if anybody had any thoughts on whether I should select any of these options, or just go for the standard service.
The car is an 09 reg Mondeo Zetec, with about 7,000 miles on the clock.
Any input appreciated. Thanks.
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It's quick, but does it in an unbusy style and is smooth so you don''t notice the speed. Took me a while to get used to six gears, and to get best fun performance you need to use the gears a bit - not excessively though (and I now keep trying to go from fifth to reverse when driving SWMBOs Focus!)
Mine is in dark grey with the gangsta black windows - which I wouldn't have spec'd, but actually look v good IMO. It has all the Titanium X bits plus some extras - sun roof, reversing sensors front & rear, Converse display, inbuilt SatNav etc etc. Consumption is really best not talked about - I don't tend to welly it too much and I'm only getting around 28 mpg overall. In fact since losing the fuel card which I had when I bought the car, I am considering trying to find a straight(ish) swap for a 2.2 diesel - not too many about with the spec and reasonable mileage though.
hi room, does any one know what the parking is like around the Queens medical centre in Nottingham? my mother has been diagnosed with heart trouble so i will be popping over to see her as much as possible over the next couple of weeks
im not one for paying extortianate parking charges , but i dont mind a bit of a walk if i can park nearby, time of day/evening is irrelevent cause ive got time off briefly so its not an issue
any help would be much appreciated...thankyou.....zoo Read more
You can park on my drive if you like and catch the bus door to door.
Only one bus, The number L53. It would take about 10 mins outside rush hour I expect.
PM me if you are interested.
Should it be blue or pink? The looklet just says L250.
The coolant in there needs changing as its gone a rusty brown colour. Probably not changed as car has only done very low mileage.
Appreciate any help or in a car this age does it matter so long as the anti freeze meets BS standards. Read more
At this age, you should use OAT antifreeeze. No idea what colour Nissan's is. Toyota's (and Halfords) is red.
I just put as deposit on an '07 530i M Sport and want to make sure I know what I should be getting in the options.
There something called a Media Package included as an additional option, but I can't seem to find what it is exactly.. anyone know of there is a site that shows the options and what they actually are? Read more
Thanks all, especially Peter, I just wna to know what to look for!
I have noticed i have a metal rattle noise from the rear suspension area when going over rough ground have checked for anything loose and found nothing obviouse. The car is a 2002 Citroen C5 2.2HDI estate, has anyone got any idea what it could be and a description where to look/remedy? Any and all help will be appreciated. Read more
just an up date have found the problem it was rear brake pads rattling in housing seems like the spring clips have not been put in correctly. can any one confirm the correct way these are supposed to be put in?? a picture would be good. thanks to all.
Hello All,
This is a long story so please bear with me ?
I?m having problems with my Opel Vectra B Elegance 1,8 2002 EcoTec
The problem really started maybe 1 year ago. The Air conditioning is of Auto type (you select temp on the display and it then increases/decreases temp/speed of fan to get right temp inside car) It started with the air cond not auto regulating the fan it was running on full speed all the time. Was only possible to adjust temp. Then after some time it got worse and it was not possible to start the air cond at all it was always of.
I then found the ?control regulating unit? inside de venting duct (after fan) and there was one of the soldering points on the circuit board was bad. I re-soldered it and the fan started to operate on full speed again. I left it like this due to did not know how to fix it. Then maybe ½ year ago I noticed that some time the engine temp meter drops to 0 and then maybe goes to maximum. The speed of the movement of the meter indicates that it is false. Don?t think that engine temp can change that quickly.
This has happened now and then but after some time it goes to normal. Then some days ago when I was out driving all the speed and rpm meters went to 0 and after some seconds back to correct value. Then the fan started turning really slow (otherwise always on full speed) stereo (Opel original) was ?rebooting? many times and all the gauges went between 0 and correct reading. I thought that now there is some short circuit so that something is really draining the power from my battery. It was only about 500m to my destination so I decided to keep driving. When I turned in on the smaller road at my destination the rpm meter and speed meter locked at there current position, rpm was about 2300 and speed was about 60km/h. (I was driving a lot slower) then suddenly the engine became very silent. And I pushed the break to stop. The meter still showed 2300rpm and speed was 60km/h (car and engine was in a complete stop) then after maybe 2-3s all gages went down to zero. I tried to start it again but starter did not turn engine. Only warning lights were on. I then jumped out and removed the ground cable from the battery in case there was some big short circuit. I put a charger on the battery and charged it for some hours and then made a new try. The starter was now turning the engine but it did not ?promise? anything tied for about 15s (sounded like it was not igniting).(Also engine service light was blinking). I then again removed the power from battery and loosened the connectors to the ECU. (Incase there was some dirt or similar there) Everything looked ok, put connectors back and tied again, after about 5s of turning the engine with the starter engine started.
.*******
So any ideas, Okay maybe I have 3 different problems here with my car the air condition then maybe some grounding problem and then maybe something with the anti theft protection.
Does anybody know where I can find electrical circuit drawings for this model. Or have tips on where problem spots could be?
With best regards
An unhappy Vectra owner for the time being ? Read more
Hello Percy,
Tanks for this advice, I will check this as soon as possible and I will tell you if I find anything. When the temp light have gone down or up to max sometime the fuel meter have done the same thing. Then on some occasions the air back lamp and ABS lamp have lit up at the same time.
But will try your advice
Tanks?
I have a '98 Jeep Cherokee Sport with some engine/electrical problems.
The Jeep was parked for a while so this may attribute to the problem.
I have two scenarios where the Jeep conks out.
1. When idling, if I rev the Jeep and take my leg of the accelerator the Jeep will conk out and the "Engine Check" light starts flashing. Switching on and off the key resets it. This is an intermittent problem and only happens one in 40 or 50 times.
2. More seriously: When driving along at cruise speed the Jeep will just lose power and die (which means a loss of steering as well as other obvious things). This also flashes on the "Engine Check" light. But I have realised, the same as above, if I turn off the key and on again it "resets" the system and the Jeep starts fine again and drives away. This is also intermittent and can happen 4-5 times in 30 minutes or once a week.
For both problems the stop button loses power.
I have taken out and cleaned the mechanical stop button and it is/was fine.
I have unplugged the accelerator near the pedal with no interference.
I have unplugged the temp sensor with no interference.
I have also found (using a volt meter), that when problem number 1 occurs the stop button loses power the minute I take my foot off the accelerator.
I haven't approached the electronic control units yet.
Thanks in advance for your time and opinions. Read more
Great,
I just found that sensor today after reading some of your other posts. Didn't realise the Diesel engines had it.
I should note that there isn't any starting problems, just cutting out.
I'll update later after I check it out that sensor, thanks for the reply.
Hello, Could someone please help me with this. I bought a used Renault Scenic 2 weeks ago from a reputable, although not Renault, dealer. However, yesterday I got into my car and noticed that the blower does not work on setting number 4. It is fine on 1, 2 and 3 though. I drove to work, about 20 miles, with it still set at 4 and all of a sudden it started working again. Then on the way home it stopped and has not started again since. I have read the other posts on this site about it possibly be the resistor. My question though, is whether this problem will get worse? If it will remain working on 1, 2 and 3 then I can live with it. However, if it is going to gradually get worse I am going to have to go back to the garage and argue with them on the conditions of their warranty.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Simon Read more
This is a common problem that will get worse, and you should get it looked at asap or you could end up with a fire in the car.
Almost certainly it is the resistor pack and its loom connector that need replaced....
Ever since I started work, back when dinosaurs ruled the earth, I have had a tax code issued to me at about this time of year. And again round about April / May after the chancellor gets up on his hind legs and changes the allowance in the budget. Now it may be this year that he says, hard luck there's no increase but, putting aside such speculation, why does HMRC go to the trouble and expense of issueing tax codes BEFORE the budget only to do it all again AFTER?
It couldn't be that they have nothing better to do so they make some work up could it?
JH
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Now that we have a sub-forum all for non-motoring there is now no longer a need to maintain these large IHAQ threads. Or the computer, sat nav etc ones. They were a large overhead. So please post in the main forum from now on.
I will flag this thread as readonly now. Thanks
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The Golf 6 was launched in October 2008. If the Golf 7 is launched in September 2012, that'll be a 4-year lifespan - only one year less than the Golf 5 (October 2003 to October 2008).