February 2010
I have noticed i have a metal rattle noise from the rear suspension area when going over rough ground have checked for anything loose and found nothing obviouse. The car is a 2002 Citroen C5 2.2HDI estate, has anyone got any idea what it could be and a description where to look/remedy? Any and all help will be appreciated. Read more
Hello All,
This is a long story so please bear with me ?
I?m having problems with my Opel Vectra B Elegance 1,8 2002 EcoTec
The problem really started maybe 1 year ago. The Air conditioning is of Auto type (you select temp on the display and it then increases/decreases temp/speed of fan to get right temp inside car) It started with the air cond not auto regulating the fan it was running on full speed all the time. Was only possible to adjust temp. Then after some time it got worse and it was not possible to start the air cond at all it was always of.
I then found the ?control regulating unit? inside de venting duct (after fan) and there was one of the soldering points on the circuit board was bad. I re-soldered it and the fan started to operate on full speed again. I left it like this due to did not know how to fix it. Then maybe ½ year ago I noticed that some time the engine temp meter drops to 0 and then maybe goes to maximum. The speed of the movement of the meter indicates that it is false. Don?t think that engine temp can change that quickly.
This has happened now and then but after some time it goes to normal. Then some days ago when I was out driving all the speed and rpm meters went to 0 and after some seconds back to correct value. Then the fan started turning really slow (otherwise always on full speed) stereo (Opel original) was ?rebooting? many times and all the gauges went between 0 and correct reading. I thought that now there is some short circuit so that something is really draining the power from my battery. It was only about 500m to my destination so I decided to keep driving. When I turned in on the smaller road at my destination the rpm meter and speed meter locked at there current position, rpm was about 2300 and speed was about 60km/h. (I was driving a lot slower) then suddenly the engine became very silent. And I pushed the break to stop. The meter still showed 2300rpm and speed was 60km/h (car and engine was in a complete stop) then after maybe 2-3s all gages went down to zero. I tried to start it again but starter did not turn engine. Only warning lights were on. I then jumped out and removed the ground cable from the battery in case there was some big short circuit. I put a charger on the battery and charged it for some hours and then made a new try. The starter was now turning the engine but it did not ?promise? anything tied for about 15s (sounded like it was not igniting).(Also engine service light was blinking). I then again removed the power from battery and loosened the connectors to the ECU. (Incase there was some dirt or similar there) Everything looked ok, put connectors back and tied again, after about 5s of turning the engine with the starter engine started.
.*******
So any ideas, Okay maybe I have 3 different problems here with my car the air condition then maybe some grounding problem and then maybe something with the anti theft protection.
Does anybody know where I can find electrical circuit drawings for this model. Or have tips on where problem spots could be?
With best regards
An unhappy Vectra owner for the time being ? Read more
Hello Percy,
Tanks for this advice, I will check this as soon as possible and I will tell you if I find anything. When the temp light have gone down or up to max sometime the fuel meter have done the same thing. Then on some occasions the air back lamp and ABS lamp have lit up at the same time.
But will try your advice
Tanks?
Hello, Could someone please help me with this. I bought a used Renault Scenic 2 weeks ago from a reputable, although not Renault, dealer. However, yesterday I got into my car and noticed that the blower does not work on setting number 4. It is fine on 1, 2 and 3 though. I drove to work, about 20 miles, with it still set at 4 and all of a sudden it started working again. Then on the way home it stopped and has not started again since. I have read the other posts on this site about it possibly be the resistor. My question though, is whether this problem will get worse? If it will remain working on 1, 2 and 3 then I can live with it. However, if it is going to gradually get worse I am going to have to go back to the garage and argue with them on the conditions of their warranty.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Simon Read more
This is a common problem that will get worse, and you should get it looked at asap or you could end up with a fire in the car.
Almost certainly it is the resistor pack and its loom connector that need replaced....
Ever since I started work, back when dinosaurs ruled the earth, I have had a tax code issued to me at about this time of year. And again round about April / May after the chancellor gets up on his hind legs and changes the allowance in the budget. Now it may be this year that he says, hard luck there's no increase but, putting aside such speculation, why does HMRC go to the trouble and expense of issueing tax codes BEFORE the budget only to do it all again AFTER?
It couldn't be that they have nothing better to do so they make some work up could it?
JH
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Now that we have a sub-forum all for non-motoring there is now no longer a need to maintain these large IHAQ threads. Or the computer, sat nav etc ones. They were a large overhead. So please post in the main forum from now on.
I will flag this thread as readonly now. Thanks
I have an oil boiler in my workshop. It has a Bentone oil burner and a small 250 litre tank for the oil. It's nearly run out of oil, but no-one will supply me with less than 1000 litres, plus they're a bit funny about having the tank inspected first for corrosion etc. (it doesn't have any). It says on the burner to use No.1 heating oil.
I don't use it often, but have nearly run out of oil. I recently changed the filter and cleaned the burner, but need more oil. So, can I use diesel instead of No.1 heating oil? That way I can just buy a little as and when. Read more
Get down to your local chippy and offer the man a few quid for his old oil have some drums at the ready!
Filter the oil at home get the batter out and use that no different to what is mixed with diesel for the engine.
Hi - I have a 2002 Clio and last night the door open light was on when I was driving home. Checked all the doors and it was the boot ~ the boot catch won't engage when its shut ~ the door stays down but just bounces and the closing mechanism won't engage.
A couple of years ago I had a small rear end shunt that was repaired and I notice that the U shaped catch attached to the body work moves up and down and wondered if it was that? But I had read some where that is meant to move?
Any advice as to what the problem might be would be much appreciated.
Thanks Read more
I have just had the same problem and have just dismantled the boot catch mechanism. I think this is faulty and has nothing to do with the solenoid or the central locking system. I think the fixed hook moving is normal.
The headlights, dashboard lights and interior lights all flicker on my Astra. The problem seems to be worse when the car is first started and on the early part of any journey. I'm still trying to figure out if there is anything that happens while driving that makes this worse i.e. accelerating, braking, cornering etc.
The lights never go out they only flicker.
The drive belt on the alternator is tight enough and the battery seems to be ok.
The car was off the road and unused for a few months before I got it and the previous owner had not experienced this problem.
I would appreciate any comments or advice you may have.
Thanks Read more
hey kildrummy I'm having the same described problem with my astra diesel just wondering if u ever resolved the issue?? mine also is at its worst at 1st use the headlights dip radio cuts out even wipers pause. in a morning it is really bad like every few seconds but after driving a while it's not so bad now and then more seems to be when turning any help would be great cheers phil
Hi All,
I am having an issue with fellow drivers thinking I have my full beam on when I don't...
This happens on one road in particular, one with frequent gradient changes. When approaching the brow of a hill, for example, I can tell that my dipped headlights are shining in the eyes of oncoming drivers, but there isn't a lot I can do about this. Frequently, oncoming cars have flashed to alert me and occaisonally cars I am behind have pulled over to let me overtake, making me look particularly agressive when I am more like the complete opposite!
Has anyone else had this kind of problem?
Cheers. Read more
FWIW my car has been in for a service today and I explicitly asked them to check headlamp alignment, which they did, and reported No Problem.
Hi,
I have an 05 Focus 1.8 Tdci which takes forever to heat up. I have changed the thermostat which doesn't seem to have helped.
I drive approx 30 miles to work along A roads averaging probably 40-50mph. This morning the temperature gauge didn't get past 1/4 heat and it took about 20 minutes for any heat to start coming out of the vents.
I also find that the car heats up as I go faster and then the temperature drops when I start going slower.
Does anyone have any idea why this might be and how I fix it? I'm in danger of getting frostbite on my way to work!!!
Thanks in advance,
Pete Read more
Even my old 2.1 IDI engine in my Citroen XM behaves the same way, when I leave home I am climbing for a few miles then drop down on to the bypass, as I descend the hill the water temperature drops steadily. The modern common rail engines produce even less heat, as mentioned, its the price you pay for efficiency, heated seats or an auxilluary heater are the only real answer. Of course it will get hot if you thrash it, but thaty rather defeats the object of having a diesel.
Has anyone got a Skoda with the "Columbus" satnav with TMC + hard drive? How do you find it? Responsive? Does what it says on the tin? Is there a bluetooth option with this? The only way i can find to spec bluetooth so far is to get a DSG gearbox (which i dont really want)?!
What about the Bolero system? How does it seem in daily use?
Kind of related question, although i can find this out 2moro when i call: Can you spec Xenon's on the Octavia Ltd Edition models? It doesn't seem like you can configure these models at all?
For all Skoda do right (inc. beating Audi's A4 by 7k for the 2.0 TFSI engine), their website is *not* one of them.
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Well done for finding that link. I have never heard of timelesslong and it wasnt marked on the stereo it just said TID7501 Made in China.
The actual unit we fitted was this one:
www.timelesslong.cn/Simplified/ProductView.asp?ID=...2
It certainly seemed good, although the customer got it from Ebay, not from China.
p
Yes, the TFSI engine is very very good, probably just about the best 4 cyl petrol out there. Although I do have a loiking for Subaru 2.5 tubo too. But the TFSI is greatly more economical.
Browse
just an up date have found the problem it was rear brake pads rattling in housing seems like the spring clips have not been put in correctly. can any one confirm the correct way these are supposed to be put in?? a picture would be good. thanks to all.