February 2010
My wife & I are thinking of driving in Europe this summer. We live in London and would like to hire car here, ferry to France and then drive - probably through Germany, Switzerland, Austria, Hungary and Romania.
We have found car hire firms that will allow this and with unlimited mileage. But the cost seems high; the standard 250 quid (approx) rental for 2 weeks for a compact 4 door but double that for the premium for travelling abroad. The cheapest deal I have found so far is 470.00.
Forgetting about flying and forgetting about the risks associated with the drive (insurance excesses and all that), I wonder if anyone else done this before and has any good advice?
Does anyone know a cheaper way of doing this? We want a driving holiday but as an example what about flying to say, France, and then hiring the car there?
All advice and ideas appreciated!
Tim Read more
Some people may be aware of my last break in only two months ago, well the same thing has just happened, this time they smashed a window and broken my seat belt housing (luckily its just cosmetic, it just needs new plastic).
Waiting for the police to turn up some time never.
Again mine was the only car in the street that was targeted, and the police think somebody has seen me with all the computers and that is why my car has become a target.
This time I made the mistake of locking my car and its going to cost me £75 via the insurance to get a new glass window put in.
It certainly raises a valid point people made in the other thread about me buying a brand new car, if this sort of thing is going to keep happening I may be better just fixing the Corsa.
Nothing was taken but it is a mess :(
i167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/amazingtrade/P104...g
i167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/amazingtrade/P104...g
i167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/amazingtrade/P104...g
I am not even sure if they are coming to finger print or what so going to phone them again if not I need to phone Autoglass for them to come and sort it. Read more
Things like this make me really glad I have a garage to put the car in. I used to leave the car outside, but luckily only suffered one attempted break-in.
Hello,
Some of you may recall my car-buying problems, not least a stolen/cloned car last year. I've been looking for a replacement for nearly six months, but been put off by high secondhand prices and apprehension about buying privately again.
Well, yesterday I did it. I bought another car, privately to boot and three hours away from where I live! I was determined to follow every scrap of sensible advice - here, from the DVLA, HPI, anywhere - but I have to say that some of it proves mighty difficult in the real world. Here's a rundown:
1) I bought it off eBay, from a private seller. Its an 07 plate B7 Avant with the 1.8T petrol engine and 50,000 miles (a bit of a change from a Disco). The advert clearly stated he was selling the car on behalf of his father.
2) The chap freely gave me all the information I needed for an HPI check, where it had been serviced and stamped, who the supplying delaer had been and who the previous owner was (his father was second owner), why his father was selling, what documentation and how many keys he had, condition, etc.
3) I paid £19.99 for an HPI check - note from hpi.co.uk - and this came back clear. I followed up with other background checks with the supplying and servicing garages (it was serviced by the latter 3 times and they could recall the current owner by name).
4) I set off and the chap met me at the station. He appeared genuine and respectable. He could hold a sensible conversation and told me what he did for a living, etc. We did not go to his home address. We had agreed to meet in either Liverpool or Chester so he could get paid at a bank after I inspected the car. He said his father wanted cash so he could pay a builder for a kitchen extension. I said he could only have this if a) he accompanied me into the bank and accepted the transfer in front of witnesses/cameras and b) he brought me several proofs of his identity and his right to sell the car on his father's behalf.
5) The V5 was watermarked and appeared authentic, the serial number was not in the stolen risk range, the details matched the car to the letter and had been signed away by his father (or someone??). Chassis and engine numbers matched the HPI/V5C paperwork, although it proved impossible to find more than one example of each (in the windscreen and in the engine bay). He showed me his driving licence, a copy of his latest mortgage statement and his father's life assurance policy with addresses to match, providing me with photocopies of each to take away, despite these containing sensitive personal information. He brought a receipt for signature, as did I.
6) We parked up outside the bank, he got his cash (over £9k), chose to stuff it in his pockets, I got the car, all the documentation, wallet and keys and he asked to be dropped at the local Costco, where he was to be met by his wife and kids.
Marks out of 10?
bazomis Read more
Thanks Waino. So far, absolutely no complaints at all. The bodywork and interior are immaculate, despite the relatively high miles. Low slung and quite sporty. Very different from driving a Disco obviously (except from the fuel consumption), but I owned 3 A4 Avants between 1997 and 2002 and enjoyed them then too. The only problem so far has been a rear brake light bulb that went yesterday. Took it to my local Audi garage, paid 97p for the bulb and the workshop manager willingly offered to show me how to fit it for free! Turned out the faulty one had not been a long-life OEM one.
Guys my car keeps storing this Error code 18165/P1757 Power Supply voltage: Open circuit. what would be the problem coz it would'nt respond on the accellarator when pressing? the idling is perfect.
Please Read more
Hello Wintre
Did you ever find out what the problem was with your Audi. I have one doing the same thing. Transmission is rebuilt with a new computer but have the same codes coming up .18165 p1757. Thanks
Hi all
Can anyone tel me if this is an easy job. I have only done this on a metro before and that was easy. I believe that the filter housing must be retained and only the internal part replaced. If anyone could give me a quick breakdown of the job and any special tools required i would be very greatfull.
Eric Read more
Incidentally on may cars the suction device removes more oil than draining
via the plug!
Darn it.... mine is an August car!
2001 1.6 16v Megane 83000 miles
** I know this looks long but it's a good read and it would really help me argue my case with the garage**
My water pump suddenly got very noisy, I was leaking coolant and the engine started to overheat. Knowing that the water pump is cam belt driven and knowing how expensive a broken cam belt could cost I receovered it to my nearest AA recommnded garage.
They stripped it back and confirmed that the water pump had gone (2 metal blades broken). They quoted me around £440 to replace water pump and cam belt which I agreed and they carried out this work. (The cam belt had never been replaced previously)
Once above finished they then test drove the car and subsequently told me that I had an oil leak from crank shaft oil seal or housing. They advised extra £90ish to fix which I agreed. (Don't know why they didn't spot this when replacing cam belt etc...never mind...the story goes on)
They changed the crank shaft oil seal and casing/housing, put on another new cam belt (so they tell me) and then took for another test drive but this time it broke down!
They recovered it, told me about the breakdown and after inspection advised me that 2 inlet valves were bent. They reckon the crank shaft pulley was faulty and that is what has caused this.
At NO cost to me (sounds very guilty) they went on to replace all four inlet vales, new gaskets and another new cam belt&kit.
When I picked it up they said that blood sweat and tears had gone in to my car quite literally as one of the technician injured his hand so badly on my engiine that he spent the afternoon in A&E. I asked what happened and they told me that he was wiping the engine down with a rag (whilst it was running) and the rag got caught in the Aux drive belt. It trapped his hand knocking his knuckles repeatedly against one of the pulleys. Idiot!
Anyway it drove and idles absolutely perfectly. Only problem was a small amount of smoke coming from the rear of the engine. I took it straight back and they inspected it for 10-15 minutes and assured me that it was simply escess oil buring off and should stop smoking after 10-15 miles.
25 miles later I now have oil on my driveway and it's still smoking. Took it back to them again and after a more detailed inspection they advised that the cam shaft oil seal is leaking and that they have now replaced this item (free of charge). Must point out here that whilst they had it on this occasion they allowed the car to run out of petrol whilst investiagting the smoking & oil leak.
I picked the car up again and drove off with it still smoking a little, they assured me again that was due to excess oil burning off. When I got round the corner from the garage I had to brake but when I did the oil and stop light came on briefly and the engine nearly cut out. It wasn't idling that well either.
I took it back again and they said that oil levels were ok and the idle/near cut out may be due to the car running out of fuel on them and some gunk may have got in the fuel injection system. They cleaned the idle control valve which they said was dirty. (probably caased in my opinion by all the smoke from the burning oil) and they emptied a can of fuel system cleaner in to my tank and told me 'try that'
After 5-10 miles it still tries to cut and out during braking the oil and stop light flcikers when I brake
It's back with them now and I am waiting for the next update. They said that they have ordered a new idle control valve and will start inspecting in full again when new part arrives.
My questions are
1) Are they incompetent or are they just very unlucky
2) Is is likely that the pulley was faulty casuing the car to break down and damage the inlet valves or it is more likely they fittled the cam belt wrong or didn't lock the engine correctly.
3) Should/would they have replaced the cam shaft oil seal when the replaced the inlet valves
4) What is now causing the car to idle poorly and oil/stop lights come on when breaking.
Thanks a million, Frustrated Megane Owner.
Read more
I meant eight, they did say that eight were replaced.
Staying up late worrying if my car will ever drive again is sending my mind round the bend.
I need to replace my near dead battery on my diesel focus. Although I'm a little confused...
The current battery is a Motorcraft superstart rated at 680A 70AH, which is lead acid. Now I've been reading around, some people are saying stick with lead acid, others say go with calcium or silver. What's best?
Also the battery I have has dimensions of: 315x175x175mm, when going to the halfords website and entering my car reg their replacement batteries are mainly 278x175x175mm. Will these be too small (in length)?
Would this do, or can anyone recommend an alternative?
www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product...b
Thanks
Dave Read more
This might give you a better understanding of the different types of battery. www.mpoweruk.com/leadacid.htm
Hi,
I have a peugeot boxer 2.2 HDI on a 2003 plate. The van was running fine, then for no apparent reason, showed the engine management light went into economy mode for a bit before locking up?
I sent to a Peugeot specialist who hooked it upto a Peugeot computer and identified air getting in a pipe, but this was not the problem as soon after driving away it did it again!
Took the van back, and the mechanic said he wasn't sure what it could be, a loose connection, a sensor, the diesel pump??
How am I supposed to get the vehicle repaired if a specialist doesn't know what the fault is, he suspects the diesel pump but can't afford to replace incase he is wrong?
Van has done 145k miles and been looked after. Read more
yes its the high pressure pump for sure theres a sensor on there disconnect it and drive it to test . the light will not come on when its disconnected but will come on when connected that will be the test so you would nt have to change it for no reason ,ok
My old Opel Astra has started to make a dreadful clatter on acceleration. It seems to be coming from the top of the engine. I've started to strip it down for a look. I can't get at the throttle body. I can see 2 bolts but there might be 3. I want to take off the inlet manifold to check the gasket. Can anyone tell me how many bolts on the throttle body and how many joining manifold to cyl head. Also any tricks to get at the throttle body bolts? Read more
you should of checked the manifold gaskit there very common on the 2.0 eco tec engine, i have a cav sri 16v and when i got it it sounded like the top end was rodgerd but i know these cars well and took off the heat shield and put a bit of paper infront of the manifold and it shows you where the blow is.
Can across this today:
tinyurl.com/y8jjxpy
I was taught to adjust the mirrors to show the side of the car, but this article is suggesting otherwise.
How do you guys have your mirrors set up? Read more
>>
I couldn't find any combination of any of the mirrors where it wasn't obvious that
this panorama had been interrupted.
Ah, but you were sitting in your driveway, in an environment that was very familiar to you. Try the same experiment in a random situation.
I prefer to play it safe and trust the DSA's view (pun?).
Browse
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Has anyone booked a car on www.vehicle-rent.com/? I have found the best prices here but I do not know this company and I don't want to pay extra fees when I return the car.