February 2010

dobbey1

Hi does anyone no the tappet clearance for my astra van, its got the 1700cc diesel isuzu engine in ti the is shimmed, many thanks Read more

philgray7

Hi All, Does anybody know if the setting is the same for a Z17DTL?

petespage

recently in this bad weather got squealing noise when very wet or cold and snowy. assumed fan belt needed tightning. at nissan service 28/01/10 reported noise. was told this noise had appeared on these vehicles recently and offered new fan belt £70+, car has only done 22,000 miles and service sheet says change belt drives every 5 years. anyway they tensioned up belt and I now get continuous screeching noise so will have to revert back to garage and possibly have new belt fitted. this seems wrong, garage can argue belt design is causing noise so cost down to me as belt is otherwise perfectly ok! if belt changed and noise still present will let you know but in view of garage comments on this noise would be interested if anyone else had this problem? Read more

Jim Reaper

The first time my wife reported this noise after a damp start up the belt was “tightened” but was no different after a few days. The second time it was also adjusted with the same effect. The third time the belt has apparently been replaced with one from a “new batch” which are apparently softer material.

To be fair the dealer has responded to all her complaints and has been willing to resolve this issue although he reports no other customer with similar problems! I have however contacted another dealer who says there is a problem with belt material and suggests the newer type of belt. Time will tell with the arrival of damp weather.

smg

The blower control switch does not work and the heater/cooler fan runs constantly. I have read some of the previous posts on this topic but not sure that they relate to my model. My model has an Auto setting for Air con. Haynes don't seem to cover the facelifted model, so am struggling to find the Resistor pack/speed regulator on my model. Any diagrams/photos that anyone has would be helpful. When I remove the glovebox and passenger footwell carpet, all I see is the heating/cooling unit. Any help greatly appreciated Read more

Peter.N.

If its the same blower as used by the Xantia it has two regulator transistors mounted on the motor, these can go short circuit and cause your problem. Alternativly, the fault could be with the control panel, in which case removing the single plug with the thin lead from the motor should stop it, if not it will be the transistors.

On the Xantia it is acessed via the trim panel underneath the glovebox, two plugs and three screws, easy to remove.

tomandjerry56

The Engine Warning Light came on a couple of days ago, so put my Zafira in to the garage. Have just got the car back and they say that a fault code of P0400 Critical System Malfunction 2 was showing when plugged in to their computer.

The garage have advised speaking to a Vauxhall Dealer and finding out more info on the code.

Can anyone advise what this code means and will it be an expensive/difficult job to put right?? Read more

eastenddoy

hi
the fault code is for the gas recirculating valve and the valve will have to be changed after some more testing

captain1959

hi, theres a slight clicking noise coming from around the timing belt area which comes and goes.it isnt too noticable whilst driving but you can hear it quite clearly if you're looking under the bonnet....the car has done 108,000 miles,any ideas? Read more

captain1959

yes i thought it was strange for it to have no cover on.its quite close to the water pump (i had a new one last week as it was leaking quite badly) i'll mention about the alternator belt tensioner aswell when i take it in thanks

donnabutler

I drove form aldershot to southampton last night and then driving back home engine management light came on, I didnt notice any change in the car other than the light coming on, I know it could be a number of things wrong, but what should be the first things to check?? Read more

lezj

These engines are notorious for splits in the vacuum pipes.
Have a good check of all the thin pipes especially at the joins for damage and replace as necessary.

Hugo {P}

Recently, as you know, I travelled from Cornwall to Wales to buy a Discovery TD5.

Now, I will admit I was very aware that I had to protect myself in respect of making sure the car was mechanically fine, not accident damaged and, above all not stolen. This is an account of what I set out to do and how I prepared myself for the journey and transaction.

The thread I read today about a stolen car being bought made me think about my recent car buying experience and how I went about it. Although this was my biggest fear - I knew that it wasn't sufficient just to make sure I had legal title to the vehicle. It had to be what I wanted and right for the money.

Having agreed a price with the seller, I had to then organise myself to do some checks, make the trip if those checks were fine, have the means to do the deal, and guarantee a safe journey home, one way or the other.

In chatting to the seller over the phone I found out a bit about him and what he did for a living. He claimed to run a small company based in Llanelli. I did internet searches for his name and company name. His landline number that he had given me corresponded with that on a website for that company. I was also able to find articles and reports based on his company, and get a feel for how long that company had been trading, and what it specialised in. All the information I gleened checked out. All I needed to do was to meet the guy and 'place' him inside the building occupied by this company. That was important to me. When I explained this to him he was quite at ease with it.

The plan was that I would arrive in Swansea at around 12.00 and the seller would meet me at the station. I would then inspect and drive the vehicle. If I was happy then we would go back into Swansea, draw out the money from my BS account then we would go back to his business premisis (where the car was registered) to do the transaction. I would then drive back home that day or stay over. [b]I wanted to see him walk in the door of his office, be recognised by his staff etc and generally behave as if he belonged there.[/b] The seller was happy with this. I had the option of going to Llanelli station but that involved a longer journey, and we would have had to go into Swansea anyway to get the money. So Swansea semed the easier option.

Plan of action before I left would therefore be

1) Keep in constant contact with the seller. I had to give him the benefit of the doubt in this respect until I felt I had cause to do otherwise. I had to bear in mind that the seller was blanking out a large chunk of his day for me. I would need his cooperation in furnishing me with details of the car (VIN etc) for the HPI check. I also didn't want him to write me off as a time waster before I'd had a chance to see the car.

2) Confirm that I could draw the money out the following Monday. As it was Saturday I had to make absoluely sure. A quick call to the building society confirmed that they could have the necessary cash at the Sansea branch for me to draw out on Monday. If I didn't need it for any reason, it would just go back into their stock. Also I needed to check I would have the correct ID. Most importanty I didn't want to get all the way up to see the car only to have my purchas thwarted by my not having access to my money. As soon as I had conformation I updated the seller that getting the cash for the purchase would not be an issue.

3) Decide how I was going to check the vehicle was not stolen, written off etc.. Being an ex police/airport security car, I reckoned that no criminal was going to make too much effort to replicate or even apply new battenburg markings on the sides - these had to be genuine. Same for anyone hoping for a dodgey repair. It was much more likley that the car would be stripped of all its markings and resprayed white. Hence the uniformity of the battenburge would be a good indicator of any panel damage in service or afterwards. However, despite these facts, I decided that a check would be a prudent move. An extra £20 would either save me a lot of money if my conclusions were incorrect or further confirm my reckonings.

I read up on the vehicle checks. It seemed that the one that would offer you the best guarantee was HPI. I also liked the fact that they check the V5 Serial Number against known stolen ones. They also seemed to ask the most questions.

To this end I needed to speak to the vendor. I decided that I would ask him to supply the information I needed from the V5C, then double check the VIN on the vehicle when I went to see it. I explained that I wasn't chacking him out, it was the car that I wanted to check out. He may be selling it in good faith, but that doesn't mean the car is what it proports to be. He phoned me back with the details and was near the phone just in case I needed more info. I keyed in all the info on the site and the car checked out clean. I still had to see the VIN on the car. Obviously I couldn't do this until I met him so I would make sure I had the HPI report with me when I set off.

4) I then needed to make sure I had breakdown cover. As it is I do via a bank account. I just needed to know that the details I had were up to date and it was a full recovery service. I was going to be doing some 200 miles in a car I didn't know - I needed a plan B.

5) Arrange insurance. I had already established that my own insurer would change over and give me 7 days free cover on my old car. However HPI were offering 7 days free insurance when you use their service. As it was too late to phone before I left them I took their details with me so I could contact them en route. The car was taxed for 2 further months.

5) Arrange a train ticket. Having already looked at the train times and discussed them with the seller I needed to book the travel. I booked a return journey (just in case I didn't buy the car) from my home village to Swansea, then printed off the details.

6) Pack and check. I needed building society book, ID, clothes for overnight stay just in case, satnav to get out of Llanelli, paperwork including the HPI stuff. I also took a fully charged mobile phone.

7) Good night sleep.

In the morning I caught the train. The journey was fine. however, about 2 hours into the journey I realised I had forgotten one minor detail. Where to look for the VIN. A quick phone call to my local Land Rover dealer confirmed where to look. That was that sorted. I also grabbed a copy of a Land Rover Mag that happened to have a report about what to look for in a used Discovery TD5!

The journey involved 2 changes. Whilst waiting for my 2nd connection I contacted Aviva who were doing the free 7 days insurance, and arranged cover. I could have done this from his office but I was worried about taking up too much of his time.

As the seller told me it was about 1/2 an hour from Llanelli to Swansea, I phoned him just under an hour before my train was due to arrive in Swansea informing him that the train was running on time.

A few minutes after my arrival at Swansea he drew up in the vehicle. I hopped in, knowing that I was in a car with someone I had found out a fair bit about over the last couple of days.

We had a spin in the vehicle around a good selection of roads then we pulled into a layby popping the nearside wheels onto the curb to make diving underneath the car easier for me. I checked out the underside of the vehicle and checked its general condition - mindful of the landymag article and a few other areas. I then pulled out my HPI stuff and checked the VIN and engine number etc. All numbers cross checked. I was as sure as I could be that the car was genuine. It's condition was fine barring a couple of issues the buyer had mentioned, but he had given a super accurate description, which was helpful.

I then suggested we drove back to Swansea to get some money. This was where my planning could have been better. I knew my BS had a branch in Swansea, but I didn't know where. The seller made a couple of calls to his office and got one of his staff to find the address on the internet, and I plugged my sat nav into the car to help locate the street.

When we got close I jumped out of the car to go to the branch and, as promised, the money was waiting for me. I waited whilst it was counted in front of me, saw it put in an envelope and stuffed it into an emty pocket I had prepared earlier. I had made sure I was wearing a coat with fleece that would hang over my jeans, and front pocket where the money was to go. I then had to make the 2 minute brisk walk from the branch to the car.

I jumped back into the car and we drove back to his office to do the transaction. Bearing in mind I still had to check through the V5C. The transaction hadn't even started at this point. The V5C was checked over, the registered keeper was him at the address I was at. All seemed in order so I handed over the readies, which he counted in front of me. we both then signed 2 copies of a bill of sale (lifted with kind permission from the AA website), and each kept a copy.

Whilst I was there I was treated to a cup of tea, and the use of his computer to print off a copy of the cover note that Aviva had sent me to enable me to drive the vehicle home.

After I thanked the seller for all his help, and we said our goodbyes. I then set off back for home. As I was driving a car I didn't know I kept a close eye on the oil and temperature guages, lest I test the car to destruction on my return.

I arrived home some 4 hours later.

This is an account of measured caution culminating in a very enjoyable transaction. you couldn't have met a nicer fellow than the seller. Although I wasn't willing to take him or the car at face value, without doing checks, he didn't mind. In retrospect he most likely treats his business transactions in much the same way.

Genuine sellers won't mind you being cautious, and will provide every assistance when you want to make your checks.

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Hugo {P}

For all the your planning & precautions you took you were carrying a large sum
of money in a car with a person you hadn't 'verified' at that point -
as you said this happened when you reached his business premises.


Good point there Woodbines. I guess no plan is absolutely perfect and the reward I reap for sharing my experiences is constructive critisism such as this - pointing out something to think of in future.

I wouldn't say it was flawed - such a statement may suggest it was doomed to failure from the start. It clearly wasn't as I now have a car and am writing this message from my kitchen table, not from the traction unit in a hospial.

In my defence, I did know at this point that the landline he had given me corresponded with that of the legitimate company. Indeed I phoned him on this number on a number of occasions.

It was comforting to see him walk into his premises. But on reflection I suppose I had already concluded that he was who he said he was.

Mich07

I have two lights on at all times when the car is running (136 diesel)
One is the engine check light & the other shows the car skidding

Have purchased a reader and the codes are P2009 & P0664
P2009 Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit Low (Bank 1
P0664 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit Low (Bank 2)

Can anyone explain what these are & what I need to do

The car runs fine & the only difference I noticed since these came on (at the same time) is when the wheel slips in frost or snow the engine does not cut down on power as previous.

Any help would be appreciated

Regards

Mich




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Dynamic Dave


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jbif

I reckon on 1 BSOD per year per machine at home with a mix of XP Home and Vista HP. >>


The BSOD reported here is caused by the XP update. Same update for Vista and Win7 causes no reported problems.

As for frequency of BSODs, I get none on XP and Win7 machines but I get a TCPIP related one frequently on one Vista PC when on HTTPS websites, which is caused by a known glitch in Agnitum Outpost firewall on that PC (according to their support forums, Agnitum have known about the problem for more than 6 months), but are unable to fix.

Mick Snutz

Ten months ago a work colleague bought a 50k mile Ford Ka on a p plate from a garage.
This week it failed its mot on serious rust and condition of brakes.
She wants to pay for repairs but I and a few others have said just walk away its not worth it.
Its had a full Ford service history and the garage owner claimed he had a good look over the car before he sold it to her.
Another garage has since looked at it with a view to repairing it but said they can't even provide a quote for welding until they grind off the rotten stuff and check the extent of the rot and they question how it was ever given a fresh MOT a year ago. I suspect even a Ka wouldnt rust in ten months unless its parked on a beach.
I also question how a dealer hasn't spotted rust during a routine service or would this sort of thing not be checked during any aspect of servicing?

I may get her to check the MOT history on VOSA.

Why is it that some cars are more suseptible to rust than others? Presumably with Ka's its a design fault rather than cheaper steel?
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b308

I`m always amazed at rust free Renault body shells in the scrapyard. Even badly twisted
and torn metal won`t rust due to the quality of the galvanizing.

>>

Hope so, I've just bough a '95 Clio to replace that old Escort for my youngest to learn to drive in (remember the auto thread?!)... Only rust I could see was round the edge of the rear wing just above the tyres... someone had had a go to fix it, but not very well, so I'll have another go... comes up for its MOT end of March so I'll soon know... Nice auto gearbox as well... I could get converted to these autos quite easily, if onlySkoda sold the Roomie with the right combination of engine/'box...