February 2010

Mick Snutz

Ten months ago a work colleague bought a 50k mile Ford Ka on a p plate from a garage.
This week it failed its mot on serious rust and condition of brakes.
She wants to pay for repairs but I and a few others have said just walk away its not worth it.
Its had a full Ford service history and the garage owner claimed he had a good look over the car before he sold it to her.
Another garage has since looked at it with a view to repairing it but said they can't even provide a quote for welding until they grind off the rotten stuff and check the extent of the rot and they question how it was ever given a fresh MOT a year ago. I suspect even a Ka wouldnt rust in ten months unless its parked on a beach.
I also question how a dealer hasn't spotted rust during a routine service or would this sort of thing not be checked during any aspect of servicing?

I may get her to check the MOT history on VOSA.

Why is it that some cars are more suseptible to rust than others? Presumably with Ka's its a design fault rather than cheaper steel?
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b308

I`m always amazed at rust free Renault body shells in the scrapyard. Even badly twisted
and torn metal won`t rust due to the quality of the galvanizing.

>>

Hope so, I've just bough a '95 Clio to replace that old Escort for my youngest to learn to drive in (remember the auto thread?!)... Only rust I could see was round the edge of the rear wing just above the tyres... someone had had a go to fix it, but not very well, so I'll have another go... comes up for its MOT end of March so I'll soon know... Nice auto gearbox as well... I could get converted to these autos quite easily, if onlySkoda sold the Roomie with the right combination of engine/'box...
Alanovich

A colleague walked in to my office this morning, slightly ashen of face.

His car had conked out on the roundabout outside the building (there's the good luck bit of the story so far), after making what he described as "a sound like a hoover", followed by cutting out noisily and stopping dead. The car then seemed to want to turn over, but couldn't.

Astra G, 1.6 petrol, 52 plate, manual.

Mr AA arrives to inspect the vehicle and diagnoses a broken cambelt tensioner, but with an intact cambelt apparently sitting around in the engine bay, but having been thrown off the mechanism.

The car has now been recovered to the owner's driveway to await his local trusted indie in his mobile van.

Is the tensioner breaking likely to have caused any terminal engine damage, or, as the belt itself is still intact, is this gentleman likely to have got away with it, and the car will only require a new tensioner to get it back on the road?

I would be interested to hear opinions as he's already panicing about the car being beyond reasonable economic repair.

Cheers all.
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old crocks

The belt of my 2000 Cortina also went at tickover - in the paddock at Donington while I was using jump leads to charge another battery. Came back to the car and assumed it had just stalled. Took a while to twig what had happened.

A friend told me I would be alright on a 2 litre engine. However a while later when I took the head off I noticed the pistons came to the top of the block, and the valves were a couple of millimetres proud of the head. Had to think for a while until I realised the head gasket was just thicker than the valve protrusion!

asand100

I have a 1.9 TDI Fabia (it is great 80%) of the time it is an 03 plate
Owned for 2 years


The problem with it.

When the engine is warm, and I am driving (typically on the motorway) it starts to jitter, sometime with a loss of power, I can either accelerate pass the engine vibration or slow down and they seam to go away and then accellerate again. But it will come back when it has done it once.

I have tried better fuel, and the fuel "cleaners" / fuel additaves from Halfords it got a bit better. But it is still happening at least 2 - 3 times a week now, the garage seam confussed.

When it behave like this the engine will sound rough at idel, if I stop it and start it within 5 minutes it will misbehave again.

Any advice, suggestions would be great.

{subject header made less vague by giving a brief description of the question being asked} Read more

tchn

Ben

I have this now on a 2001 Y, 127,000 miles. Did you find out what needed doing?...

brakenoodle

Has anyone out there done a cambelt replacement on a 2005 Chevy (Daewoo) Tacuma 1.6SX? It has the four pot DOHC 'Family 1' GM engine. Are there any pitfalls? Is the special tool realy required to tension the belt or can something else be used? I have done the 'belt on a Daewoo Matiz and it was easy but the Tacuma looks a totally different story. Any advice please. Read more

brakenoodle

The water pump tool is stamped 46mm and is bent round with a 1/2" square drive hole on the other side. It is listed in the Tacuma workshop manual. It was a used item on ebay

Clanger

Well I knew the car needed fuel because the display said "low fuel level" and the yellow light was on in case I couldn't read. The computer also said I had fuel for 34 miles so I arrived at the filling station with 27 miles to go. It was awkward because it was busy and I didn't see one row of pumps had jackets on the nozzles until I turned in. As I had the trailer on I thought I would be less of a nuisance going out again, round the roundabout 150 metres away and approaching from the other direction. Just as I was leaving the station, the engine coughed. I made it to the roundabout by the power of prayer and it died completely half-way round.
As I was calling the recovery people, a chap in a scruffy grey 4x4 pulled alongside my left window and offered me a tow. As I was nothing short of a blooming hazard where I was, I accepted. He towed me to the filling station where we ended up out of the way but nowhere near a pump. I was then obliged to buy a horrible plastic can and put 4½ litres of diesel in the car; the other ½ litre having foamed out of the can at my feet. I checked the manual for a fuel primer but none was mentioned so I turned the key and the engine started as though nothing had happened.
The engine management light gleamed on the dash and the display said "Anti pollution fault". Having cancelled the recovery service and got home, I disconnected the battery and came inside for a coffee. It was just the same when I restarted the car half an hour later so I Googled the phrase on the display. It was all very depressing with mention of Eolys fluid, particle filters, hazardous waste and big bills.
I'm not a great subscriber to the world of coincidence so I sat in the car and reset every function on the computer I could think of including the one that says "Check control" which isn't in the manual and I've never known what it is. Next time I started up the engine management light blinked and went out. Sheer luck, I call it. As has happened before when I have disconnected the battery, it feels like I now have another 20bhp under my right foot before the computer gets used to my turgid driving style again.
OK, thank you for listening, you can get back to your lives now. Read more

bathtub tom

>>I have not heard of such a thing. Where do you get this information?

I don't know, it may have been here.

AFAIK it would've been OK to tow my old Panda on a rope with a dead engine (no brake servo or PAS fitted), but anything with with these power systems requires a solid tow, unless the engine's turning providing the power assistance.

peanut

Hi

Fiesta 1.6 diesel, 2 years old. Had it from new, and is a fantastic car. I would like to see it last 200k+ miles.

I don't know whether to:
a) Increase oil changes to 6k using Ford (or equiv) 5w-30 semi
b) Use fully synth oil for 12k service.
c) Carry on with 5W-30 semi at 12k
d) None of the above

I'm playing it 'by the book' till the warranty expires.

Thanks

Peanut
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Old Navy

Supermarket sludge or big-name premium diesel for long engine life ?

>>

It all meets EN590 spec and thats what cars are designed to run on.
fiercefred

I am disabled and drive an automatic car a Renault Meganne. This car will need to be replaced in the near future. After my recent icy weather experience i am considering buying a 4x4. I do not have to pay car tax i could get an automatic on motability but the downpayments are huge. Which 4x4 used cars would you reccomend. I have looked at a Nissan Murano so far.
Thanks

{Subject header given a less vague title} Read more

Abby

Hi, I think You should get Your facts right before You start judging disabled drivers for Their choice of cars, You contribute nothing to the cost, it makes no difference to You whatsoever if They drive a 4x4 or a Mini or keep the money and not have a car, someone that qualifies for the high rate mobility component can decide how They are going to use it and wheteher its the bus or a 4x4 We still get the same amount and makes no difference to the tax payer how We decide to spend that money, We pay for those cars, eg: if I wanted a Honda CRV I would have to make a downpayment out of My own pocket of £1,999,99p or if I wanted a Citroen C1 I would pay no downpayment.

alan kearn

The recent cold weather has shown that the battery on my 2002 1.4 tdi Polo is getting a little tired so I am going buy a new one.
I want one of good quality so I have checked out my local VW dealer who with fitting
wants a total of £150 (£133 + £17) for a 72 amp battery.
Halfords want £95 + £5 fitted for a 70 amp battery.
I am confident of the quality of the battery from the VW dealers but how good are the
batteries from Halfords, am I correct in thinking that a difference of the amp hours
(70/72) of these batteries is negligeable .
If I do find or anyone knows of a quality battery from elseware and I have to fit it myself am I likely to mess up the electrics when I disconnect the old battery and reconnect the old one.
One problem I have heard of is having to put a live feed to the radio so you dont
have to mess about recoding it, how do you go about this and any other tips if needed
would be appreciated.

Thanks Read more

Englishbullterrier

Varta are also EXCELLENT batteries. I recently bought the E11 from their Blue range and it start my diesel here at -25c.....

Please refer to this link for more information -

www.battery2u.co.uk/Car-Batteries/Varta-Car-Batter...1

Swissguy

Just moved to the UK from Switzerland. I am driving a Ford S-Max

We take occasional driving trips to the Alps (the next one in 2 weeks). My original plan was to buy some snow chains, but the owners manual says snow chains should not be used if we have larger wheels (225/50/17), which we do.

Second choice would be to buy winter tires....but these seem to be impossible to find in the UK at the moment. Someone suggested to me that there are websites in France and Germany where you can order online and have them shipped to a local UK fitter. I tried using mytyres.co.uk (Germany-based), but it seems rather dodgy (my credit card was refused and they are asking me to send a copy of a utility bill as proof of identity.....have also now seen many negative on-line comments about service).

Anyone have experience with reliable online tire services that have winter tires?

Thanks.

Chris Read more

PR {P}

Its probably too late now but I was having similar dilemma about a skiing trip. I have hired some Spikes Spiders...

tinyurl.com/ydetp34

It costs £65 for 13 days hire (from the start of your holiday) but they send them a good 10 days prior to that for no extra cost to familiarise with fitting etc..

Vixx

I have owned my Mazda 6 Diesel TS2 (136) for approx 18 months now with 140,000m on the clock.

First problem I encountered was the dreaded diesel pump change which I have just finished paying for (£1500 in total) but now I have a new fault and was just trying to find some advise or previous experience on this as I have trawled the internet and still non the wiser (i am a woman though!)

Basically over Christmas I was drivng to work when the engine started making a very loud knocking noise this only seemed to happen when I was not accelerating, looked in my rear mirror and the car was chucking out a load of black smoke. Managed to get it to work by this time it had stopped so only lasted about 2mins. Started it at work and did the same. AA man towed it back home and since then it has been idle until approx a week ago (was convinced id blown the engine)

A family friend/mechanic had a look at last week, started it and it was perfect no noise no black smoke? He checked the oil and basically it was like syrup?

Before I take it to the Mazda dealership (and run up a huge bill) would thought I'd try and see if anyone else has any idea what the fault may be, and should I cut my loses and get rid of the thing!!
Thanks in advance, Vicky Read more

Vixx

I would say approx 10,000 miles.