February 2010
Hi all
It's been awhile since I last posted so hope everyone is well.
I've had my Escort nearly 2 yrs now and it's been a smashing little run about. Now done just over 120000 miles.
I've have somethings replaced but this has just been general wear and tear stuff.
Over the last 2 days a whirring noise at the back has become apparant. It is silent on idle but starts once you reach about 10 mile ph and gets louder the faster you go.
On braking the back brakes sound like they are grating (Brake shoes replaced approx 9 mths ago) about 2 months after they were fitted they were grating so they were taken off and found there to be quite a lot of dust gathered so cleaned and replaced. Then all ok.
I had the wheel bearing (back drivers side) replaced last year.
Any ideas/help would be much appreciated.
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I have had a sudden increse in temp at high speed for some time, although fine in every other respect. It usually falls back as quick as it has come.
Trying to decide what to do and unsure if it could be an air lock or a blocked radiator.
Can anyone advise what each hose connected to expansion tank or radiator are, or provide a diagram.
Also any idea how much i should pay for a flush and replacement of the coolant.
Thanks Read more
"Does anyone know whether the alternator has to come off to change the thermostat? The haynes manual is a bit vague on this."
I never found the Haynes Manual to be vague for any of the jobs I tackled on my old Focus - it should state clearly if you need to and refer you to that chapter.
The thermostat housing on my 1.8 was easily accessible from the front of the car without needing to remove anything major IIRC, but the 1.6 engine bay is set up differently to the 1.8.
hi everyone.
just fitted a hid xenon headlamp conversion kit to my 52 reg audi a4 now when i first start my car then put my lights on, the esp, abs and brake waning lights come on but if i turn the engine back off then back on then my lights on again its fine i fitted the canbus cancellers to the lights but that made no difference. anyone had the same problems? Read more
Yes,I have seen this on a Mondeo,also fitted with these add-on kits.Unfortunately these aftermarket cheapo hid systems are not made with the same level of interference and supression circuits and can cause problems with other electronics on the car.Best advice is to make sure the igniter boxes and their wiring are kept away as far as possible from the original harness.This may help the situation.hth
The car when cold will idle, however if you drive it and say come to a junction or roundabout and wish to decelerate in a normal but rapid (and not timid driver) manner, the car will stall will stall when you come to a stop or when you engage the clutch and are idling/coasting (even before you stop at the junction.)
When it does not stall or when you idle normally the engine will race ( instead of idling of at say 1000rpm it will go up to 1300rpm and then as low as 800rpm) it will do this whether you are on petrol or gas.
When the engine has reached its normal operating temperature for this time of year (according to the temperature gauge – about 80-90 degrees Celsius) all the problems will go away on both petrol and gas and no longer stall at junctions or race.
The car had a full service including spark plugs, HT leads and brand new coil pack
Another piece of info which may be relevant:
The yellow petrol low warning light stays on far too long before the needle moves up and over when there is enough petrol in the car – when you start the engine initially. At times this light may come on for apparently no reason (when in gas mode and therefore not using petrol) in the middle of a journey; it will then go out even though you have not put any petrol in.
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My 1986 USA Ford F Series truck has developed a leak from the bottom of the steering Box, at the Drop Arm Seal ( where it joins the Pitman arm , according to the workshop manual ) As it's a large vehicle my local Indie is reluctant to have it in while the box is being repaired elsewhere, so I need to undo the steering box at the roadside outside my place, which is fine, and send it for a rebuild . It is still driveable at the moment, only with no power steering so difficult to turn. I can manage with it off the road for a few days.
My query : where to get the ' Pitman Arm puller ', and can anybody recommend a workshop / company that rebuilds steering boxes - apparently cars are on Rack and Pinion now , so steering boxes tend to be found on lorries etc ?
Preferable somewhere not too far from London. ta Read more
find out how much a new arm is imported in
and consider grinding and then splitting the old one off
this way the splines or taper or both will stay intact on the box
I am confused as to who owns who now, if you buy a Citroen it could be a Fiat or if you geta Volvo it could be a Ford, so what are the facts? Read more
It is a bug, the mods are aware of it.
A grandmother of 50 yrs age was caught doing burn-outs in public, something which is naughty under our road code. 6 months disqualification. According to reports, she was embarassed about the loss of face with her boy-racer friends, to whom she is known as Mumsy.
Beware of little old ladies driving boy-racer-mobiles !! Read more
Well I'm over 50 and could still give a good account of myself on a special stage and regularly get my knee down on a roundabout.
You young uns you know nowt :-]
Looking for advice on a sporty car, Want something fast preferably 0-60 under 8 seconds.
Budget £8k but can stretch to 9k.
I'm 21 so certain cars insurance is too much, old porsche boxters, s2000's etc
Looked at Z4's and rx8's as well as cooper s's
Any recommendations? Don't want it to be a hairdressers car as im a bloke
Ideally 4 seat, but 2 seats are fine too :) Read more
Men - they are very good cars - even the great Jeremy C. says its the best car ever.
Hello All,
Having a bad day! This morning, I managed to lose the only remote central locking key for my focus. I still have the 'master key' with the red tab and a loop attached with a 7 digit code starting with a T.
My problems seemed to have been compounded when I tried to use this key. The car was unlocked, I tried to start the car unsucessfully; the barrel wouldn't turn. I was able to lock the car but now unable to open it!
I've had the car 4 years, and this is the first time that I've needed to use the master key. Also it may be nothing but I've changed the batteries in the remote key (now lost) recently.
Couple of questions:
How am I able to lock the car but unable to unlock it?
Can I assume that I have the wrong master key for this car?
If I potentially have no keys for this car, is the only option to resolve this issue a visit to a Ford dealer?
I would would appreciate any pearls of wisdom that you have.
Thanks (I'll now start putting the house back together!) Read more
Thanks all for your help, looks like i'll be phoning autolocksmiths tomorrow (thank for the nod).
As to why the car was unlocked in the first place, I had got something from the car that morning, and forgotten to lock the door. This is a habit that drives my wife nuts!
snip - I have strong suspicions you have connections with the two links you submitted so they've been removed.
Happy to discuss by email with you if you want to dispute my decision.
DD - BR Moderator Read more
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Hi
Thx for the reply, no it doesn't alter when cornering just stays constant.