February 2010
Got to thinking what the cheapest car I ever got that did a good job for me.Had to be an Simca 1100 that I bought for £300 from a local paper ad. Got me to work and did a couple of holidays and it kept going for a couple of years before MOT man gave an expensive diagnosis. I exchanged it at a main dealwrs for something I can't remember but got my £300 back in px. Read more
Hi I have a 1.6 16v petrol engine. Its has done about 110,000miles.
The other day I pulled out of a junction and managed to smoke out the car behind me, the car then started to Kangaroo down the road at random intervals, just as I parked up the car was sounding like a tug boat.
Went to start the car the next day and the engine will turn over but will not fire, on rare occasion it will fire and then conk out again after a second or 2.
I have checked and there is fuel getting through, I have got a spark. We found one of the vacum pipes had broken off and have replaced that (have also called the AA out to try and start it and he tried all of the above and still doesnt know why it wont start) Have tried to bump start that car and it will still not fire
Any one have an idea
Thanks vp Read more
has it got the correct fuel in it, this car may be early enough to get the blink codes out with a paperclip try a search its a well known and tested methord however possible that there may be a few red herrings from that cos yu and the aa man have been messing but have a look anyway post any codes and we willl try to help, Regards TB
Now I've seen everything! www.honestjohn.co.uk/news/item.htm?id=36212 I use a bit of kitchen roll ~ 'er indoors has Plenty! Read more
:)
I agree that its a daft idea, though!
Motoring related of course.
I can think of two things, though I am not sure if I have the will power.
1/ When I fill up with super unleaded (regularly in the FocuST), I will not be tempted by Soft Mints, Fruit Pastilles, 3 for 2 offers on Snickers or Mars and 2 for £3 on large cans of Red Bull!
2/ When I come up behind a Toyota Prius on an A road or dual carriageway I will gently drift past rather than changing down and blasting past showering the Prius in a cloud of, well, er, .... CO2.
As I say I am not sure if I have the will power!
Read more
Sex,drugs and rockandroll.
Hi, I have recently picked up a Rover v8 3.9 to slot into my P6. The numbers stamped on the block are 30A00164 1999040. Apparently this engine is not out of a Landrover/Rangerover. I would be interested to know what it was originally in. Regards Dave Read more
Looking to achieve the most quiet and comfortable ride.
Does anyone know what affect tyre size and width has on this?
thankyou Read more
I am in the process of buying a car, and 2 available trims are available to me (life and club). I"m not too bothered about the trims themselves, and the price difference is negligible. However, the two trims come with different tyre sizes, so I am wondering the difference in noise and ride bumpiness.
Some may have noticed the sticky above about changes tomorrow - especially the read only period. The forum is being migrated to a new system. We as mods are hoping the functionality remains but we are also in the dark.
Bear with us. We will, along with you, sort this out. We hope it will be business as usual. And the infamous (but very useful) threaded capability of this forum.
Rob (Moderator) Read more
My K11 would not start mid december, called out a "mechanic" who diagnosed the coil was away. He changed (or said he did) the HT leads, rotar arm, dizzy cap, spark plugs and coil. Whatever he did, the car then started. However, I now have a new problem. The car will run for 5 mins, then begins to stutter, kangaroo and completely cuts out, this can happen doing 60mph on the duel carriageway. Went back to the guy, but he has no idea of what he is talking about, suggesting the dizzy cap may need a seal? So I took it to a second "mechanic" who advised, it could be any number of problems, and would cost me approx £1000.00 to fix, his best suggestion was to scrap the car. So car is now with new mechanic who is suggesting the distributor is away. I have kept suggesting that the problem may lie with the parts that were changed, since I did not have this running problem before these parts were changed.
If the original non starting problem was a result of dead distributor, would changing the above parts then allowed the car to start, but now have running probs?
I would really appreciate any advice, I've been without my car since 11 dec. I've read so much online about throttle bodies, MAF sensors, etc., but can't help but think it's to do with the parts that were changed. It has only done 60k and is a tidy wee car.
Many Thanks. Read more
This sounds like classic throttle body problems and really is worth a try as it is a diy job and the only tool you need is a soldering iron. I did the job on mine in half an hour start to finish and cured the problem I have since sold the car and have heard no come back.
I have a 2004 (54) honda accord 2.2cdti tourer, manual. Recently when accelerating in 3rd 4th and 5th gear the revs go high with no real acceleration followed by the revs returning to normal and then the car accelerating as normal.
I had the exhaust manifold replaced (under warranty) by Honda and 3 months ago serviced by an independant including fuel filter.
There have been issues with fuel pumps etc which I have read on here but the car seems normal generally, and starts fine its just when trying to accelerate hard. There are no issues in the first two gears making me think or hope that its not a clutch issue!
Any help gratefully received. Read more
From a little research it seems that the ECU / brain of the engine limit's the turbo / power in lower gears.... that coupled with the fact that the turbo has more time to ramp up in higher gears etc all means you get more torque at the flywheel in higher gears - for the 2.2 it will peak at about 2500rpm.
Realy there isn't anything else that could be 'slipping' between the flywheel and roadwheels, I'm thinking you are going to have to get the clutch looked at....
Right, i'll keep this as short as I can....My injector pump was leaking so I took it to garage, they say that pump is knacked and it will cost around £400 at least and there is no gurantee it will work. I dont doubt them, but obviously its an old van so its not worth paying that, so, I'm left with a few options.
1. Get a pump from a scraped van and fit that: But I have been told this is almost impossible as the immobilizer is part of the pump...Is this true?
-OR-
2. Would it be easier and cheaper to fit a whole new engine? ans if so, which one and how much do you reckon a garage would charge to do it?
-OR-
Any other ideas?
Thanks for reading, Tom Read more
260556884578, 330406664293
Browse
1976 VW Polo bought in 1993 from a neighbour for peanuts as a stop gap. Kept it for a year until the MOT was up during which time nothing whatsoever was replaced, not even the oil I'm ashamed to say. Sold it for virtually the same money to someone with the competence and equipment to weld up the rather porous floor pan.