February 2010
Hi everyone, this is a bit of a long one and starts off with pulling into a petrol station filling up and the car not starting. The engine turned over, the fuel pump primed and there was a spark.
The RAC came and managed to get it started by disconnecting one of the injectors, turning the engine over then quickly reconnecting it. As soon as I stopped and tried to restart, the same thing happened. He suggested that the injectors weren't getting enough fuel so check the fuel lines, filter and pump.
I was also able to get it started by disconnecting the fuel return pipe so I figured that maybe it was blocked (it would also start if left for a day).
After reading up on here, a few other people had similar problems so I replaced the pump and cleaned the lines. This made no difference (it would start fine for a day or two then not start).
I started wondering if the crank angle sensor was faulty, when I disconnected it, the car would not start (as expected), when I then connected it, the car would start fine. Great I thought, its either the sensor or the wiring going to it.
I then noticed that when I did get it started, the cooling fan came on virtually straight away. After doing some research, it could be the cooling system going into safe mode so was going to check the thermostat, engine temperature sensor and water pump.
When I was about to do this (about two weeks after calling the RAC out), I noticed that the battery warning light comes on now (this didn't happen before). I used a meter across the battery terminals which showed it was not charging. When I leave the engine running with all the lights etc on, I can see the voltage of the battery dropping.
So I seem to have three separate problems: car wont start, cooling fan comes on and battery not charging !!
I really don't know what to tackle first, surely I can't have all three problems at the same time? (I guess its possible that the cooling fan has been coming on straight away for a while and I've just not noticed)
When the car does start, it runs fine.
I'm hoping that someone is going to tell me that its the alternator (or something like that) which is also causing the other symptoms.
Thanks (and pulling whats left of my hair out),
Pete
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our car broke down whilst the gf was using it , aa towed her home and said fault code p1336 was showing , hes pretty certain its a faulty coil pack , but after ive googled that code it seems to be crank cam sensor , i do have the chance of taking the coil pack off a peugeot and trying mine on it to see if the misfire etc carries on with that car , aa man said citroen / peugeout ciols packs are the same , any ideas if this sounds a good idea or do you think its more likely to be the crank cam sensor , thanks for reading Read more
Ring the AA technical department and ask them they will have logged the code they may tell you what have you to lose?
I am not a regular on here but thought it worth sharing, I asked a question a couple of weeks back regarding rear suspension noise on my Jag X Type estate but got no reply, after a little research and a bit of hands on this is what I found.
Rear anti roll bar bushes have been updated/modified I had already replace mine as they were very noisy.
What stars of as an annoying squeak from the rear (and is tricky to pin down where it comes from) was a worn Arm Control part #C2S 50863 fitted to off side noise gone. 6 months later other side started to squeak so I ignored it and it eventually went away, but later turned to a knocking sound bought another Arm Control (even got 10% discount) approx £45.00 + vat with discount, fitted noise gone.
There is also a common problem when reversing and you touch the brakes, the noise is what you would describe as the pads sticking on (only heard when reversing) it turns out to be a bush in rear suspension arm part #C2S 46380 approx £4 not yet fitted them I will
confirm if it sorts the problem at a later date.
Hope this may be of help to any X Type owners the arms and anti roll bar bushes are very straight forward to swap.
Chris Read more
This was a very useful post.
I purchased a 2004 X Type estate this year and have exactly this common problem you describe....
My first post - please excuse me if lenghty but wanted to paint my clutch problem in full - thank you in advance.
A tale of woe - a clutch of problems.
Honda Accord 2.2 i-ctdi sport tourer. 55 plate.
During May of 2007 we purchased a Honda Accord 2.2 CTDi Sports Tourer from the local Honda dealer in Bedford.
We actually live in the West Country ? Weston-Super-Mare ? and spotted this car in the showroom whilst visiting our son in Bedfordshire.
The purpose of the purchase was to upgrade our car for a more suitable towing vehicle for our newly aquired caravan.
This particular model had recently been reviewed by the Caravan Club as Tower for its year.
Although it had a ?55? plate it only had 6,000 genuine miles on the clock having been used as a Demo car.
Within a few days of taking delivery, and prior to any towing, my wife and I took a short trip to Cornwall. It was on this journey that I experienced difficulty with building up revs, - for example after slowing down for roundabouts and then pulling away.
On our return I took the car to our local Honda dealer and mentioned this problem to them. Their response was that I was probably not used to this car. I then asked them if they could road test this car for me and was told that they could but it would cost me £80 or so. I was reluctant to do this and resolved to mention this to the selling dealer on my next trip to Bedford. Needless to say none of this was recorded and in fact the problem seemed not to reappear.
We then had a towing hitch fitted and happily went caravanning.
I had researched the Kerbweight of the Accord as 1575 Kilos with a maximum towing weight of 1500Ks. Our caravan was a 2005 Lunar Lexon EB with MTPLM of 1400 Kilos.
In January of 2008 with 12000 miles on the clock I was returning the car to the Bedford dealer for its first service.
On this trip, minus the caravan, without warning, the clutch played up and I barely made Bedford.
Of our 6,000 miles of ownership we had towed for a maximum of 1,000 miles ? this is being generous ? and had not had any indications of any problems.
I battled my Warranty corner with both Honda and the dealer but without success. However Honda did provide the clutch and the dealer and I shared the labour costs.
All seemed well.
Now in February 2010 and 24,000 miles later (total of 36,000 miles on the clock) I take up the story of the present day problem.
The clutch has failed again !!!
Of the subsequent 24,000 miles - at the extreme - we have towed 4,000 miles ? and again this is very generous. 80% plus of our towing has been either motorways or ?A? roads with minimal town work or traffic jams etc.
We have had no warning of any problem and in fact have not towed since October 2009 ? for over four months - and in fact have not done any journey more than 40 miles since then.
I have been driving for almost fifty years and towing caravans for more than seven.
I have only ever experienced one clutch failure and this in a diesel car with over 120,000 miles on the clock.
I am seeking advice and comments on my latest problem.
Obviously I shall have to have the clutch replaced ? again.
Two clutch replacements in 30,000 miles of ownership.
I am not very familiar with mechanical problems.
However I am told that diesel cars generally have a poor clutch record.
Also that there may be a problem with the Dual Mass Drive Wheel ? all foreign to me.
Could the problem be with me and my driving or with towing weights etc. or is anyone aware of any history attached to Honda or Honda Diesels giving similar problems.
I would appreciate hearing from anyone on this matter.
Thank you in advance.
Naturally I have lost confidence with this car.
I intend to replace it with a ?tank? of sorts. We are keen to continue caravanning.
Could anyone comment on automatic gearboxes for towing.
Again, Thank You in Advance.
Best Wishes and Happy Everythings,
Len Bullock, Weston-Super-Mare, Summmmerset.
{post amended to remove SHOUTING!} Read more
John.
Thank you for your response and interest.
Apart from the clutch problems we are generally pleased with the car and will be sorry to loose it.
LenBo
Hi,
I was just wondering whether it's possible for the home mechanic to fit a new starter motor to the above car. How accessible is it and are any special tools needed?
Many thanks,
DJ Read more
Okay, I did this:
I bought a reconditioned starter motor from aapoldham (on ebay). The starter on this car is at the front of the engine and needs to be accessed from above and below in order to complete the job....
From the "ran out of petrol" thread.
What's the relevant law on this? I can't find definitive answers. Anyone?
I do seem to remember that there's a maximum distance between vehicles, and that one may not tow a motorcycle behind a car, but that towing a motorcycle with another motorcycle, or towing a car with a motorcycle, is OK. Something about lights must be displayed on the towed vehicle in adverse conditions. Read more
I used my car to tow a mate on his broken down Bantam
The tow rope was looped round the forks
The best thing to do is to wind the rope a turn around the handlebars, or wherever is apopropriate, and get the rider to hang onto the end. If there's trouble, he lets go, & is "disconnected".
Hi, Last week me and my husband bought a car from private seller. We did all HPI checks and even spoken to the police who confirmed that the car is fine. However, we found out today that the car is stolen. The seller used one of the stolen V5 forms and cloned the VIN number and registration so when we checked it it looked ok but in fact it had different VIN number than the one on the window. Police left the car with us and told us that insurance company will contact us and we might be able to buy it from them. We paid £10,000 for the car and we do not have another £10,000 to pay to the insurance company. Is there any chance we can get some sort of compensation. Do you know how much insurance company can ask for?? Read more
This thread is going read-only as it's more helpful to concentrate answers in one place. Please go to Legal matters and you'll find it there.
I hope this helps someone cause it has driven me batty.
My daughter has a W reg Saxo and recently the steering went stiff, I had a new power steering relay fitted which solved the problem short term. The other night her battery had gone flat and so she got a bump start and came home, the following morning the battery was dead flat and so I took it off and charged it, thinking she had left her lights or the stereo on for longer than she should (you know what young girls are like)
Any way the battery drained again within a few hours and so I bought a new battery, that too drained overnight and was so flat no lights came on even on the panel. I consulted several forums and came to an educated guess at the alternator and so I fitted a brand new one, I had recharged the battery and took it for a test drive, I then noticed the power steering was not working again and the next morning the battery was dead flat again. I now suspected the power steering pump and found a second hand one at the scrappies. I left the pump disconnected overnight but the battery still drained. I was now getting a bit upset and so scratching my bonnet decided I would remove all the fuses to see if that would give me a clue, I removed every fuse on the car, both accessories and engine fuses but the drain was still happening. I put a meter inline and the drain was around 20 amps. I removed the power cable on the starter motor but still the same. I then got a clamp meter and put it on each wire from the battery and the wire going to the engine fusebox was showing the drain. Even with all the fuses removed it was still showing a drain of around 20 amps. Directly under the fuses are some small connectors and one by one I unplugged them until hey presto the drain stopped. The car would turn over but not start until the plug was back in but then the drain continued. I unpugged each engine connector in turn to try and locate the other end of the wires on this connector but no difference. I was just about to go for the dreaded ignition switch when I noticed a relay under the ECU. I struggled but eventually managed to unplug it and buzzed the wires to confirm they were the ones I was looking for and they were. I then buzzed the relay and found the normally open contacts were actually welded together and were buzzing when they should not have been. This was allowing current through and causing the drain. I replaced the relay and the problem is solved. It has taken me two days of standing in the rain and the cold to suss this, so if this post helps anyone from suffering like I have then I am a happy man.
Derek Read more
hi mate this is great work and thank you. my brother in law has a saxo with the same issue so i suspect this same relay... don't suppose u wrote the part number down you had to replace it with? and was it an expensive relay to replace or was it a tenner jobbo?
sorry for a dumb question, but when you say "buzzed" what do you mean? did you put power direct through and bypass the relay or something?...
Talk about the agony of choice. Anyway, wife wants a new car. All sensible suggestions of a saloon or estate car have been rejected for no intelligible reasons and we are left with a choice of new 4x4s for c. £25k.
Honda CRV 2.2 Ex Auto (2010) - £26,500k - best broker price
Volvo XC90 Auto Active - £26k after leather re-trim and a few options added.
Having driven both, the Honda feels slightly more modern inside albeit the build quality doesn't feel quite as good as the XC90. On the handling front, they both feel similar (i.e. numb steering, zero road feel, the sense that the car is going to topple over if you take a bend at any more than 25 mph!). The Volvo definately feels more refined and has less road noise however.
In all seriousness, they are both pretty good family cars so I suppose what I'm really asking is whether there are any better ways to spend £25k on a newish 4x4? I've looked at the X5, Q7, Q5, etc but can't quite accept the comedy pricing i.e. £40k for an X5 with no leather or nav! 2nd hand is even worse where a decent spec 3 year old X5 still costs £25 - £30k. Not sure where the projected residual of 50% comes from.
cheers Read more
i come from China, here xc90(2.5T) price is 2.4 times than crv (2.4).so in china your can not have the choise xc90 or crv.if you confare them,others will feel very strange.
but from the chinese local forum information, there are always some problem about volvo....
I have a 1.8 petrol C-max that has developed an unstable idle problem when the car is moving.
When I?m slowing to a stop the rev's will bounce from around 500 to 1000 rpm until the car comes to a complete stop then the engine will return to normal idle revs.
The problem has gotten worse over time and now the car is nearly stalling with the battery light coming on. I have scanned the ECU for but there are none registered.
The car is also often a pain to start normally when been standing overnight the car will start then the rev's just drop off to 0 causing a stall.
I was wondering if anyone on here has had this problem before I start spending £££'s on parts that do not need changing.
Was thinking of changing the Intake Manifold Runner Control valve first
Any help or advice would be much appreciated
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Thanks for the info,
I have looked at the live diagnostics with my code reader and the coolant temperature sensor looks ok.
The MAF sensor being at fault would fit in with a couple of other symptoms, when the is car warm and idling the idle speed is around 700rpm if you try and raise the rpm to say 1200 you tap the accelerator and the rpm rises to around 1600 and will sometimes keep climbing. Also the Long term fuel trim is often above +10% indicating unmetered air is entering the engine.
Going to get the air box out at the weekend and have a look at the MAF sensor.
I was also wondering of the MAP sensor could cause the same issues? I know it is integrated with the intake temperature sensor.
I have exactly the same problem with a 2004 Fiesta 1.4.
After reading this post I have had the cooling temperature sensor changed and the problem is still there. It starts fine when cold but won't start when the engine is hot....