February 2010

Biker Bones

our car broke down whilst the gf was using it , aa towed her home and said fault code p1336 was showing , hes pretty certain its a faulty coil pack , but after ive googled that code it seems to be crank cam sensor , i do have the chance of taking the coil pack off a peugeot and trying mine on it to see if the misfire etc carries on with that car , aa man said citroen / peugeout ciols packs are the same , any ideas if this sounds a good idea or do you think its more likely to be the crank cam sensor , thanks for reading Read more

piston power

Ring the AA technical department and ask them they will have logged the code they may tell you what have you to lose?

Geran1

I am not a regular on here but thought it worth sharing, I asked a question a couple of weeks back regarding rear suspension noise on my Jag X Type estate but got no reply, after a little research and a bit of hands on this is what I found.

Rear anti roll bar bushes have been updated/modified I had already replace mine as they were very noisy.

What stars of as an annoying squeak from the rear (and is tricky to pin down where it comes from) was a worn Arm Control part #C2S 50863 fitted to off side noise gone. 6 months later other side started to squeak so I ignored it and it eventually went away, but later turned to a knocking sound bought another Arm Control (even got 10% discount) approx £45.00 + vat with discount, fitted noise gone.

There is also a common problem when reversing and you touch the brakes, the noise is what you would describe as the pads sticking on (only heard when reversing) it turns out to be a bush in rear suspension arm part #C2S 46380 approx £4 not yet fitted them I will
confirm if it sorts the problem at a later date.

Hope this may be of help to any X Type owners the arms and anti roll bar bushes are very straight forward to swap.


Chris Read more

Drewschen

This was a very useful post.

I purchased a 2004 X Type estate this year and have exactly this common problem you describe....

Barch

My 56 reg company car now on 135,000 miles has a recurring problem with the rear wash wipe. If the water level falls to zero then on refill on an intermittent basis the rear wash wipe will wipe but does not spray.

The main dealers are useless. It would appear, thanks to Hemmings in Worcester, there is a filter in the washer bottle that becomes blocked easily. If the filter is removed then the problem is eradicated. The dealers will just clear or replace the filters. Read more

Jj6279

Did you mange to get window washer sorted iam having same problem can u help

LenBo

My first post - please excuse me if lenghty but wanted to paint my clutch problem in full - thank you in advance.



A tale of woe - a clutch of problems.


Honda Accord 2.2 i-ctdi sport tourer. 55 plate.


During May of 2007 we purchased a Honda Accord 2.2 CTDi Sports Tourer from the local Honda dealer in Bedford.
We actually live in the West Country ? Weston-Super-Mare ? and spotted this car in the showroom whilst visiting our son in Bedfordshire.
The purpose of the purchase was to upgrade our car for a more suitable towing vehicle for our newly aquired caravan.
This particular model had recently been reviewed by the Caravan Club as Tower for its year.
Although it had a ?55? plate it only had 6,000 genuine miles on the clock having been used as a Demo car.

Within a few days of taking delivery, and prior to any towing, my wife and I took a short trip to Cornwall. It was on this journey that I experienced difficulty with building up revs, - for example after slowing down for roundabouts and then pulling away.
On our return I took the car to our local Honda dealer and mentioned this problem to them. Their response was that I was probably not used to this car. I then asked them if they could road test this car for me and was told that they could but it would cost me £80 or so. I was reluctant to do this and resolved to mention this to the selling dealer on my next trip to Bedford. Needless to say none of this was recorded and in fact the problem seemed not to reappear.
We then had a towing hitch fitted and happily went caravanning.

I had researched the Kerbweight of the Accord as 1575 Kilos with a maximum towing weight of 1500Ks. Our caravan was a 2005 Lunar Lexon EB with MTPLM of 1400 Kilos.

In January of 2008 with 12000 miles on the clock I was returning the car to the Bedford dealer for its first service.
On this trip, minus the caravan, without warning, the clutch played up and I barely made Bedford.
Of our 6,000 miles of ownership we had towed for a maximum of 1,000 miles ? this is being generous ? and had not had any indications of any problems.
I battled my Warranty corner with both Honda and the dealer but without success. However Honda did provide the clutch and the dealer and I shared the labour costs.

All seemed well.

Now in February 2010 and 24,000 miles later (total of 36,000 miles on the clock) I take up the story of the present day problem.
The clutch has failed again !!!
Of the subsequent 24,000 miles - at the extreme - we have towed 4,000 miles ? and again this is very generous. 80% plus of our towing has been either motorways or ?A? roads with minimal town work or traffic jams etc.
We have had no warning of any problem and in fact have not towed since October 2009 ? for over four months - and in fact have not done any journey more than 40 miles since then.

I have been driving for almost fifty years and towing caravans for more than seven.
I have only ever experienced one clutch failure and this in a diesel car with over 120,000 miles on the clock.

I am seeking advice and comments on my latest problem.
Obviously I shall have to have the clutch replaced ? again.
Two clutch replacements in 30,000 miles of ownership.

I am not very familiar with mechanical problems.
However I am told that diesel cars generally have a poor clutch record.
Also that there may be a problem with the Dual Mass Drive Wheel ? all foreign to me.

Could the problem be with me and my driving or with towing weights etc. or is anyone aware of any history attached to Honda or Honda Diesels giving similar problems.
I would appreciate hearing from anyone on this matter.
Thank you in advance.

Naturally I have lost confidence with this car.
I intend to replace it with a ?tank? of sorts. We are keen to continue caravanning.
Could anyone comment on automatic gearboxes for towing.
Again, Thank You in Advance.

Best Wishes and Happy Everythings,

Len Bullock, Weston-Super-Mare, Summmmerset.


{post amended to remove SHOUTING!} Read more

LenBo

John.
Thank you for your response and interest.
Apart from the clutch problems we are generally pleased with the car and will be sorry to loose it.
LenBo

DishonestJack

Hi,
I was just wondering whether it's possible for the home mechanic to fit a new starter motor to the above car. How accessible is it and are any special tools needed?
Many thanks,
DJ Read more

DishonestJack

Okay, I did this:

I bought a reconditioned starter motor from aapoldham (on ebay). The starter on this car is at the front of the engine and needs to be accessed from above and below in order to complete the job....

FotheringtonThomas

From the "ran out of petrol" thread.

What's the relevant law on this? I can't find definitive answers. Anyone?

I do seem to remember that there's a maximum distance between vehicles, and that one may not tow a motorcycle behind a car, but that towing a motorcycle with another motorcycle, or towing a car with a motorcycle, is OK. Something about lights must be displayed on the towed vehicle in adverse conditions. Read more

FotheringtonThomas

I used my car to tow a mate on his broken down Bantam
The tow rope was looped round the forks


The best thing to do is to wind the rope a turn around the handlebars, or wherever is apopropriate, and get the rider to hang onto the end. If there's trouble, he lets go, & is "disconnected".
ant1973

Talk about the agony of choice. Anyway, wife wants a new car. All sensible suggestions of a saloon or estate car have been rejected for no intelligible reasons and we are left with a choice of new 4x4s for c. £25k.

Honda CRV 2.2 Ex Auto (2010) - £26,500k - best broker price
Volvo XC90 Auto Active - £26k after leather re-trim and a few options added.

Having driven both, the Honda feels slightly more modern inside albeit the build quality doesn't feel quite as good as the XC90. On the handling front, they both feel similar (i.e. numb steering, zero road feel, the sense that the car is going to topple over if you take a bend at any more than 25 mph!). The Volvo definately feels more refined and has less road noise however.

In all seriousness, they are both pretty good family cars so I suppose what I'm really asking is whether there are any better ways to spend £25k on a newish 4x4? I've looked at the X5, Q7, Q5, etc but can't quite accept the comedy pricing i.e. £40k for an X5 with no leather or nav! 2nd hand is even worse where a decent spec 3 year old X5 still costs £25 - £30k. Not sure where the projected residual of 50% comes from.

cheers Read more

zhangxiaoda

i come from China, here xc90(2.5T) price is 2.4 times than crv (2.4).so in china your can not have the choise xc90 or crv.if you confare them,others will feel very strange.

but from the chinese local forum information, there are always some problem about volvo....

woti664

I have a 1.8 petrol C-max that has developed an unstable idle problem when the car is moving.

When I?m slowing to a stop the rev's will bounce from around 500 to 1000 rpm until the car comes to a complete stop then the engine will return to normal idle revs.

The problem has gotten worse over time and now the car is nearly stalling with the battery light coming on. I have scanned the ECU for but there are none registered.

The car is also often a pain to start normally when been standing overnight the car will start then the rev's just drop off to 0 causing a stall.

I was wondering if anyone on here has had this problem before I start spending £££'s on parts that do not need changing.

Was thinking of changing the Intake Manifold Runner Control valve first

Any help or advice would be much appreciated
Read more

woti664

Thanks for the info,

I have looked at the live diagnostics with my code reader and the coolant temperature sensor looks ok.

The MAF sensor being at fault would fit in with a couple of other symptoms, when the is car warm and idling the idle speed is around 700rpm if you try and raise the rpm to say 1200 you tap the accelerator and the rpm rises to around 1600 and will sometimes keep climbing. Also the Long term fuel trim is often above +10% indicating unmetered air is entering the engine.

Going to get the air box out at the weekend and have a look at the MAF sensor.

I was also wondering of the MAP sensor could cause the same issues? I know it is integrated with the intake temperature sensor.

dazco

Just before Christmas i was driving the wifes mini when the heater suddenly started blowing cold air and the temp gauge started moving around erraticaly.
upon investigation it appeared that the coolant level was low, took about a litre to top up.
All has been fine but now the level has dropped again .
No Mayo in the oil but coolant does look discolored.
Is this looking like a head gasket failure?
car has only covered 25 k miles, if it is im gutted that a modern car with such low milage and full service history should fail like this.
Car is now out of warenty.
Is there a known problem with theses gaskets? ive read of a few that have failed.
Thanks Daz Read more

dazco

Turned out to be the thermostat housing as sugested, cost £180 , thanks for the advice , Daz

dennis55

I have a 55 plate Corsa 1.2 and the battery is always flat. I know Ive been told to replace it but is there something else which causes a flat battery as opposed to the obvious battery replacement?. I have been having to use jump leads to start it recently, even after a good run the car wont start the following day. ould there be something which is like trickle draining it, or is it the battery which needs replacing.

Kind regards Denn Read more

AndyTheGreat

To add to diddys post, if you have a multimeter you can also check that the alt is charging the battery. Its as simple as putting the meter on the DC volts setting (probably a 20VDC on the dial) and putting the probes on the batt while the engine is running. You should see a voltage of somewhere around 14v - 14.5v.