February 2010

redviper

Hi

1.8 Petrol 29K Miles
Used around 10 miles per day Town journey

I have a bit of a issue with my Vectra C

Sometimes when you start the car 1st time on a morning, it will struggle to get above 800 RPM and is lumpy, sometimes the car will realise this and correct itself other times it wont and will just sit at around 600 revs pulsing up and down slightly.
A dab on the throttle and all is well it ticks over normally (> 900 RPM) the car will be fine to use for the rest of the day ? it has been fully serviced and is great in every other respect


I have posted this on another forum however I?m calling on the expertise of the BR

Many Thanks Read more

redviper

Thanks tb that would be great but I don't want to waste anyones time if I don't do it...
on older cars I would be quite happy to unbolt things however with complex electronics I don't want to damage anything. The car is under warranty but I would have a hard time replicating the problem as it only ever happens 1st thing on a morning and I would like at this stage more information about the problem especially if I can sort it myself

If you do have some more information you could give me it would be very apreciated I just don't want to appear to be wasting your time if I decide not to tackle it myself

many thanks

Rattle

I won't go into any details because there is a thread in tehnical but the upshot is my head gasket has gone on my Corsa and I cannot be bothered with old cars anymore. With my luck on used cars and my personality I just don't want the stress or hassle.

I have just been to a FIAT dealer to enquire about a loan for a new Panda I will find out in a few days if my application is sucessful. My credit score is rated excellent so its only really my self employed status which would effect me.

The Panda is £95 a month for four years, then a £1200 final payment.

The problem I have only owned my Corsa for 11.5 months, on the 27th of March I will have owned it a year and the scheme expires on the 31st.

The MOT is due on the 15th of March so as you can see the timing is all wrong. I have bought some block seal to hopefully bodge the HG and get it through the MOT but before I go down the scrappage scheme is there any other deals I should consider?

I only do city driving so engine size is not important, I just want something hassle free and simple. What ever car I buy I would keep it for a long time.

All this depends on my ability to get a cheap loan there is no point on paying higher APR. I did make a similar thread a few months ago with regard to my dad but the difference is my parents have poor history and my dads not driving anyway now. Read more

rtj70

No idea... maybe Dave will know. If never looked at the old swear filter.

ansome

please can you tell me where is the fuel additive reservoir tank for Eolys fluid is situated as i need to top up first time on many thanks Read more

ansome

Thank you dieselnut yet again someone who cares and always ready to help thankyou very much (ansome) John.

john_crossland

Hi Guys.

First post on honest john.

looking for a little bit of independatnt advice.

Got myself a 1.6 ford focus zetec X reg. Nothing special just a family run around.
64K genuine mileage just had a full service.

At the service they changed the front brakes and the front right shock. (apparently the shock had leaked onto the brake causing unusual brake wear??

Anyway. Since the work was done everytime I press the brake it knocks. The noise is intermittent. When i took it back to the garage a week after the service it was gone and they couldnt find anything. But now its back with vengance. Its a fairly loud knock/click when you press the break. I can even do 30 mph press the brake ten times and it goes click ten times. Im pretty sure its on the suspension as its doing it going over small bumps now aswell.

Ive had a good look cant find anything obviously wrong. could be the drop link arm (but that was changed 18months ago) or some strut bushes? but nothing is obviously loose when i put it over a pit.

There is a small play in the steering but that's not it and the CV joints are fine and also the common knocks from the pedal box. but for a 10 y/o ford thats o.k and this noise is unrelated to that.

my thoughts are that when they changed the shock they disturbed a worn bush which is now wearing through. Looking for a bit of ammo to go in there with tomorrow cos it cost me £350 to get the service and work done i dont want to fork out another 100 just for a cupla bushes to be changed.

Thanks for your help.

John C Read more

the_bandit

A few years ago now I had a similar issue with a recently acquired Ford 1.6 Escort (X-Reg).

The recently replaced pads were not genuine Ford items and once replaced with these the knocking noise was away. Ford ones are cheap enough and don't make it worth while replacing with after-market items.

Also both shocks should have been replaced at the same time as a matter of safety. You now have one new shock and one 10year old 64k tired one. Not good news for handling and braking.


watkins

I need to change a fan belt on a 2000 Fiesta courier turbo van 1800 diesel. It has a power sterring pulley on it aswell. Can anyone know where I can get a copy of the diagram to route the belt around the pulleys. Thanks Read more

jordan_b

hi I know its a long time ago you posted this and probably a long shot but do you still have this diagram if so can you email me it please

Focus_Driver

I recently bought an x reg 1.8 focus and want to change the spark plugs. I saw some with 4 cores (?) in Halfords and they were only £20 for 4. Only thing stopping me buying them is that the current ford motorcraft ones fitted seem OK. They're not worn, and they're like a brown/tan colour. The spark plug gap is about 2mm but the manual says its should be 1mm.
Should I fit new plugs with the 4 cores and would that give me better mpg, perfromance etc over standard ones? The car starts and runs fine at the moment. And should I adjust the plug gap to 1mm?

Reason why i want to change them is I will be be doing a full service on the car so may as well have everything done.

Read more

Focus_Driver

It is for a petrol, my previous car used to be a tdci but now I have a 1.8 zetec. I don't know if the gap is caused by use over time but the plugs look in very good condition. I will change them since they're only £12 for a set, and not bother with the 4 electrode gimmicks .

fiercefred

I am disabled and drive an automatic car a Renault Meganne. This car will need to be replaced in the near future. After my recent icy weather experience i am considering buying a 4x4. I do not have to pay car tax i could get an automatic on motability but the downpayments are huge. Which 4x4 used cars would you reccomend. I have looked at a Nissan Murano so far.
Thanks

{Subject header given a less vague title} Read more

Abby

Hi, I think You should get Your facts right before You start judging disabled drivers for Their choice of cars, You contribute nothing to the cost, it makes no difference to You whatsoever if They drive a 4x4 or a Mini or keep the money and not have a car, someone that qualifies for the high rate mobility component can decide how They are going to use it and wheteher its the bus or a 4x4 We still get the same amount and makes no difference to the tax payer how We decide to spend that money, We pay for those cars, eg: if I wanted a Honda CRV I would have to make a downpayment out of My own pocket of £1,999,99p or if I wanted a Citroen C1 I would pay no downpayment.

alwaysaproblem

Two weeks ago had the same problem, mainly in 2nd/3rd gear (below 3000 Rpm) car would misfire with a gentle judder, EML came on then went off, had spark plugs replaced as badly corroded, and mechanic said there was fluid in the compartment so he cleaned it all away. Car then fine.

Today, same thing again, juddery and EML light flashing then turning off?

Only brought the car 3 weeks ago, done 40k? Read more

jords

rainwater leaks through the bonnet washer jet holes and then drips into the void around the spark plugs .ford know about this and modded washer jets are available which have a small rubber gasket on them (10 pounds for both).my mums car had exact problem . i dried out the void with kitchen roll fitted new spark plugs with coopperslip ,new washer jets no more probs (about a year ago)

dieseldogg

So as per an earlier "toot" of mine, I see that research has now revealed that those who require multiple attempts, ie 4,5.6 attempts to pass their driving test never become competent drivers, this proved by their having more accidents..... incl with stationary /parked vehicles. 2nd attempt pass is best, first time passers (like me ) are a bit cocky(apparently), I wasnt btw
cheers
Read more

dieseldogg

That is however my concern

What %age of the annual death toll on our roads is due to incompetent driving?...

Bowiefan

Hi all, rant alert warning...

"How much?!" This phrase has passed my lips more times than I care to mention whilst trying to find an insurance quote this weekend. I purchased my first car recently, a 2000 Suzuki Swift 1.3 GLS (for those who like details...box on wheels for me), having passed my test a few months ago. I'm having no end of grief trying to find an insurance quote I can actually afford. Today's batch of quotes range from £925 up to £1700 for 3rd/F/T. How can something I'm legally obliged to have be open to so much variation, seemingly random variation at that? I swear I get a different quote based purely on what colour socks I have on that day.

Prices have soared compared to when I first started looking during my early days of having driving lessons (not that I considered them cheap at the time), and I'm actually seeing £100 increases on some quotes I obtained just Thursday night. I'm assuming prices increase over the weekend on the assumption that more people have the time to sort out new insurance? The best quote I've received was £749 with eCar, but when I logged back in using the quote reference number provided, the price had increased (email complaint duly sent). Insurance being cheaper when you're older appears to be a myth I'd too readily taken as a truth. As this is all somewhat new to me, is this really the reality of motoring? I certainly don't expect it to be my cheap and cheerful privilege, but it is frankly confirming all the doubts I had about driving that had always put me off. I feel that I'm already stuck having to bite the bullet rather than completely waste all the money I've already spent on numerous driving lessons, associated test costs, and the car itself. Having not driven once since my test, coupled with this almost black hole of money demands, I'm fairly close to murdering the next person who mentions the freedom driving provides...

;P Read more

seasiders rock

Try Bell Directs bonus accelerator policy, you get your first years NCB IN 10 months.
I had the same problem in 2005, at 53 years old i was getting quotes approaching £1000 for a new Fiat Panda 1.2.
Problem was i had been driving company vans and cars for the best part of 25 years and had zero NCB and was considered a new driver.
The North London post code did,nt help, Bosnia was probably safer !
Now 5 years down the line and 4 years NCB £200 fully comp for a Panda 100 HP, and the Blackpool post code i have is also considered a war zone as well.