November 2009
I've recently replaced the thermostat as the temperature wasn't getting up to half way and it would start to overheat in traffic etc. The temp gets up to half way quicker but now the heaters go cold as (I imagine) the thermostat opens up as it is coming up to normal temp.
I know the heater control valve is the first port of call, but I've checked the hoses going in and out, both of which are hot and the same temp. I've removed each hose to pour water in and it flows through with no issues. I noticed yesterday that the bottom rad hose is hot near the engine but cooler near the rad.
So my question is - is there an airlock in the rad or has the water pump given up? I mentioned the pump because when the engine is revved the coolant in the header tank doesn't move, whereas on previous cars ive had, the level will drop with the revs as I understand it is supposed to.
Thanks in advance for any help! Read more
Sorry for my ignorance, but what does the {P} which occurs after some forum members' names mean? Read more
It was adopted by older members to show they have a profile stored.
I have many memories as a kid of my grandads many cars, he had them all, Allegros, Ladas, Cortinas but never sunk as low as a Marina but he did have a nice old A40 which was slightly before my time.
I remember at least twice these cars (one Lada, one Allegro) overheating with steam pouring out of the bonnet, both times he fitted a new thermostat and all was well. On a modern car if this happens surely the headgasket will crack?
Is it something to with the change of cylinder head material from iron? I also remember my dads car [Lada] had a cracked radiator and he managed drive 12 miles to the specialist mechanic we used at the time which must have been over heating. When my first bought my dads current Fiesta on the first day it overheated again with steam coming out of the bonnet needle in red and fan spinning at stupid speeds. New thermostat and 22,000 miles later no signs of any head gasket failure, his engine is the Ford Endura which is an iron kent block.
So why do head gasket failures seem so common now? Is that people are just driving their cars with the needle in the red without realising the water pump has failed or something? Read more
The difference there is in having a solid iron block with an iron head, versus a wet-liner alloy block with an alloy head.
With the first you may well "get away with it", with the second it's unlikely.
Incidently, of the same vintage is the Jag XJ12. Boiling one of those was instant death, requiring heads off, gaskets and a head skim if you were lucky......
Hey,
New here, first post.
I just had my EGR valve / manifold replaced at the weekend as the garage said that it was broken, now I have a different problem.
When i start the engine, the engine warning light pops up, the mileometer flashs dashs (----) across it, and the RPM gage drops to 0 from its real value, then spikes back up.
This doesnt always happen when starting the engine, sometimes its a bit later in the trip, the above will repeat. Whenever it is though, the engine warning light stays on for 5 - 10 seconds and then goes off when I have slowed down.
Does anyone have any ideas what it could be? Could the garage not have reset the computer when they changed the EGR valve? Could it be some sensor gone funny?
Can i boot it into test mode to see any error codes coming back?
Thanks,
David.
Read more
The VSS for the B5/IB5 gearbox is £30-odd - this was the one fitted to my 1999 1.8i petrol :
www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/focus-vehicle_speed_senso...m
It does say that this is for petrols engines though - I'm not familiar with diesels.
IIRC, the MTX75 VSS is £80-odd.
Your local Ford dealer's parts department should be able to advise if you give them your reg.
I recently had the timing chain replaced on this vehicle due to excessive noise, shortly after having this done I had the car off the road for a month or two. Since driving it again regularly I have noticed that she is eatig a lot of oil, nearly a litre per 300 miles.
There is no obvious signs of where the oil loss is coming from, either from the engine itself or from the sump, no spillage in the road or parking area. There is no oily smoke or any telltale sign from the exhaust.
Does anyone out there have any ideas as to what's going on? Read more
Have it checked over for a blocked breather system as it could be pressurizing and forcing oil past the rings so probably only burns the oil at higher speed put not at idle. Try opening the oil filler when it is running and see if it hisses due to excess pressure. Did this stary immediately after the chain change, have you taken it back to them to check it out. Regards Peter
Just noticed it - presumably it's for website problems rather than post content? Read more
Yes we got it changed. No more discussion necessary.
I am looking at buying one of these cars.
I am used to ul fueled cars in the past.
I am concerned about missfilling by accident.
I never brim a tank, so was wondering what could be got away with/
Say I put 20quid of ul in by mistake, can i dilute with brimming with derv? would half a pint of oil mixed in too help as well?
I just know I will slip up sometime. Read more
i have heard some cars prime up just by unlocking the doors.
Anyway, the car i was going for was sold. only for it to turn up at aanother garage at lower price and shorter mot. odd. was originally at a skoda garage.
Has anyone replaced an alloy sump on a 1250 zetec engine in the later fiesta mark 4? Just wondering if the engine and gearbox need to be split apart like other zetecs to undo bolts behind the flywheel? Read more
does the current model 1.6tdci have a dual mass flywheel or a normal flywheel thanks Read more
New Fiesta should be NON Dmf.
Hello
Wonder if anyone can help or offer any advice, I've started getting some strange electrical faults today (apologies if it is long winded but I wanted to include everything as I don't know what could be relevent).
First both my headlights failed at th same time. I wasn't sure but I thought it could be the fuses, so I swapped a couple around but they all seemed fine, so I bought replacement bulbs from Halfords.
As they are a pain to fit properly, I just disconnected the plug without taking the old bulbs out and connected the new one, just to see if this was the issue. They came on, so problem solved (I foolishly thought), intending to fit them properly tomorrow when its light.
However, 5 minutes later the central locking started playing up. When I took the key out of the ignition the central locking started making a sort of taking sound (possibly like its try to lock even though it already is). The key fob would no longer work the locks. The only thing that stops it making the ticking noise is to manually push the drivers lock down, and even this is someimes not possible as the mechanism seems to be constantly active. When I did push it down everything stops (this does not happen if you do the same thing with the passenger side), or to start the engine.
Tried repeatedly locking/unlocking manually but makes no difference.
What could this be? It couldn't be anything I did could it? I didn't touch any of the central locking/alarm fuses, all I did was swap the headlight fuse with the horn fuse to see if it was working (it was).
The central locking fuse is a screwed in affair which I didn't touch (I assume this one was for the central locking as it had a key symbol).
Any help greatly appreciated! Read more
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A 97 will not have a flap type(air blend) heater;it'll be water-valve.Once you have the system running correctly-the valve has a bleedhole in it so that hot water can get back to the engine even when valve is shut.These engines are about the simplest to bleed-just put heater on full hot and run engine at about 3,000 revs for a minute.