November 2009
hi there, i'm new to the site,
i have a 1995 mk3 golf gti 2.0 8v engine code agg
i recently parked up the car over night and returned the next morning to find it would not start although it was cranking, got plenty fuel getting to engine but found no spark, changed the obvious coil but to no joy so changed crank sensor, dizzy cap and rotor arm, still no joy, all relays are correct and present.
after some head scratching and testing i found that the 3 pin connector that goes to the distributor was at fault as all 3 wires had a 12v feed, the brown/blue wire is earthed when ignition is off but becomes 12v when ignition on, this appears to incorrect, i put earth using power probe when cranking and it started, but i'm stumped as to where the feed comes from so i can find the fault, is it an internal fault with engine ecu? only faults present using ethos scanner is throttle position sensor fault, if this if at fault would it cause this short? any help on this matter would be greatley appreciated, if i put a permanent earth to this wire it runs sweet as a nut but i know this isn't correct and has to be rectified, regards jakey Read more
hi there thanks for you speedy reply, the car hs had no mechanical work carried out since its last mot in august, it just occurred all of a sudden, i have given the brown/blue wire a bolted earth to the earth on front left hand side of engine block, does it sound as though the ecu has become at fault and no longer has an internal earth to this wire? when i run the car with this temporary fix there is no warning lights etc on dash, so would it be ok to leave it, when i put earth to the brown blue then disconnect it i can hear the throttle butterfly moving slightly, is this normal, regards
Got a small issue with a 1250 zetec engine, Ive just replaced it into a 2001 fiesta so its the later of the 1.25's. The old engine had spun a shell but still run OK. The new engine did have 2 bent valves where it had been turned by hand with no bottom pulley on so I replaced the head with the one off the old engine. I then fit a new tensioner and belt and I also used the correct timing tools for the engine. Now when I try to start it the engine briefly fires as though trying to start (more of a judder) then just cranks. It is flooding and soaking the plugs. I have checked compression and get 150psi give or take 3 psi across the board, thats with throttle closed and cold cranking with all plugs removed. With spark plugs out and dry I get a good spark on all pots. Could it be the crank sensor at fault or should I be re-checking the timing? The cam sensor is the original one with the original cams etc due to the head change so can be ruled out. Also the fuel rail and injectors are original. Read more
Hello -
The brake lights dont come on until I've pressed the brake almost all the way down.
The brake light switch seems to look like this one:
www.teiledirekt.de/product_info.php/language/en/cu...3
I just cant see how to adjust the darn thing though - or if its even possible to.
Anyone know? Read more
If you browse this, you'll probably find the part somewhere:
nissan4u.com/parts/almera_uk_make/
Hi
Engine seems sluggish on start off and gear change. Its not till it reaches 60 -70mph that it seems ok. Also getting a bit noisier than usual. Managment lights on occassionally are the orange one (dont have manual so dont know what light it is!!) looks like a squarish box (some kinda pump?) poss injecters blocked??? also oil light flashes on and off frequently (especially on braking)
If anyone could tell me if these are big jobs and how much roughly it could cost me.
Cheers
{correct year entered, found via a forum search} Read more
isthe oil level is fine then it could be a faulty wire causing the light issues. As for sluggish the key suspects would be air flow meter and EGR valve. Getting it on a diagnostic should confirm this.
I am looking at changing my family car for a new one next March.Which make and model of car is the best for refinement(quiet cabin) and ride(supple).
The car must be petrol and the size of a Mondeo/Vectra.
It ideally must come in under £20,000(after discounts)
I believe the Citroen C5 is refined?What do you guys think? and any other cars that make the grade.It must be brand new.
Have the new shape C5's been reliable so far? or its it still the same old Citroen.
Others on my list are Honda Accord,Mazda 6,Ford Mondeo,Vauxhall Insignia,Toyota Avensis,Skoda Superb.
Thanks guys Read more
The Skoda Superb has been very well reviewed: the 1.8 TSI is the ideal petrol option.
I've currently got a W registration Renault Laguna. Will cost an arm and a leg to get it through it's next MOT which is due on 4th Feb, 2010. The road tax runs out on 31st January 2010. My car was 1st registered on 17th March 2010. So by the time 17th March 2010 comes around, my car will not be eligible for the £2000 scrappage allowance. I see that Nissan have lowered the age of their car scrappage from 10 years to 8 years if you scrap your car for a Nissan made in the UK ( I believe their factory is in Sunderland ). Does anyone know if there are any other manufacturers considering doing this same thing ie lowering the age to 8.
Cheers. Read more
I doubt many QashQai's are sold under the scrappage and I bet discounts of £2k could be easily had without it anyway.
£2k of a Note would be a good deal though :)
Hi can anybody tell me what is the problem with the power steering pump on the mini when on full lock or doing a three point turn the pump stop's working, but it is only intermitent not all the time.so what could be the problem??
Thanks Slack. Read more
Failing electro/hydraulic steering pumps on these is a known issue and well documented(even on Watchdog).However it would be a good idea to check the level of pas fluid in the reservoir first.hth
Hi
Ford Focus Estate, X reg. Gearbox just gone sloppy and stuck in 4th. Clutch seems OK, I managed to drive it back. Lever will move easily forward and back but not side to side.
Any advice on the best place to start looking.
Thanks Read more
Right, it's the selector cable not remaining engaged with the selector lever arm at the back of the box. It is a loose fit on the spigot and just drops off in use. If it wasn't such a pig to get at I could probably refit it using something to keep it attached, but it's almost impossible to get two working hands in there, even with lots of stuff taken off.
I'm expecting to have to buy a new cable (hopefully with a 'good' connection).
Best place to buy or alternative suggestions for a remedy gratefully accepted.
Cheers
After enjoying my Peugeot 306 for 8 years I bowed down to pressure and let my son have it. The new one is an A3 quattro 2 litre diesel which has a strange response. If I drive a little quickly into a bend it does not respond as I am used to in all my previous (Front Wheel Drive Cars) whereby I could lift off the throttle at the right time and the front end would bite in and I could steer the car round. If I try it with the new one when I back off the throttle the engine revs stay the same and I have to hit the brake to prevent me from overshooting. I haven't tried it with the Stability Programme switched off yet but this does not seem a safe situation. Have any others out there experienced the same thing? I also notice that this engine is similar to the old types of turbo diesels whereby there is no response until about 1800 revs and then it goes very well. My 306 was smooth from 1200 revs and a lot easier to drive quickly. Comments on both concerns would be very welcome. Thank you Read more
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Indeed.