June 2009
Hi I would like some advice?
I recently bought a peugeot 308 hatch, bought new and now it has done just over 20000kms. A fault registered on the LCD screen advising "Depollution System Faulty" and the service centre advised this was due to a temperature sensor that was faulth and needed replacing, they also did a forced re-generation. They confirmed that they resolved the issue. 2 days later my electric side mirrors have now locked up and will not open when I unlock the car. Can someone please provide me some advice on this? Does anyone know of any faults in this model? Thanks Read more
Anyone seen these people?
I saw the link in a well known on-line motoring magazine. I thought I'd give it a try out of curiosity. Quoted me £10,010 to buy my C4 Picasso 2L hdi egs Exclusive.
Obviously that quote relates to a car they have not seen and relies on honest answers from you when you go through their questions on line.
Not sure what happens when you get to one of their drop off points and how much they may try to carve off the initial price.
One thing that would worry me is that you are expected to give them the car, the keys and all paperwork and then receive payment by BACS some 4 or 5 days later. If you paid extra you could receive a next days BACS payment. In these straightened times, I would worry during the gap between leaving my car and getting my money.
I have read mixed reviews about them. I do wonder whether they quote an initial high price to whet your appetite and capture your interest because when I was looking to p/x the car a couple of months ago, I was offered nowhere near that amount. Read more
Hey guys and girls
I'm hoping someone can put me straight, I'm getting conflicting information from different places.
Haynes and various others places have said that in order to ensure no airlock is in the system that a header tank has to be used for the refill and that this is quiet a tricky job to get right.
I have read in a couple of other places that there is no need for this as long as the bleed valve is opened to release the air as filled and that this engine (TUD5) is one of the easiest to refill.
Could someone please clarify this!? I'm getting very confused and concerned as to whether I should start this or not!! :-$
Thanks so much
Jason Read more
Follow the instructions in my post above - exactly.
There is only one coolant vent point, as detailed....
We don't have the infra red key and the immobiliser has kicked in when the battery went flat, Renault want £160 at least for a new one, has anyone got any suggestions how we can get round this? Credit crunch etc mean we are broke! Read more
I'm curious as to how you managed to start it without a plip key before the battery went flat.
Presumably the immobiliser had previously been disabled?
You will need the 4 digit immobiliser code now which you can only get from a Renault dealer :-
There are two main types of immobiliser sytem, the infrared which can be identified by the small glass ball at the base of the black part of the key and the ultrasonic or radio type system. These differ in two ways. The first infrared system relies on the button on the key being pressed to deactivate the imobiliser. The second has a seperate chip and a decoder ring around the ignition barrell and even if the key does not operate the central locking should have no adverse effect on the car starting.
If you have the first system which is the earlier of the two and was phased out around 1998 a good way to check if the key is still operational (even if the red light comes on) is to point the key at a mobile phone camera and you should be able to see blue light coming from the glass ball on the key. If there is no light then the key is usually unsalvageable and would require replacement. If there is light coming out of the key yet it does not start the car it is most likely that the key and the car have gone 'out of sync' and will need to be 're-phased'. On anything other than a megane or scenic it requires the Renault Diagnostic computer to be connected to the vehicle before the key can be rephased.
Over-riding the imobiliser is possible but you will need the imobiliser code which contary to popular belief is avaliable from Renault dealers (usually about £10+vat). Renault UK have issued a document to dealers that authorise them to pass on this information provided you have shown photo id and the V5 registration document (The code is obtained from the chassis number). For a Laguna you will need to use the pedal and wiper stalk method of code entry and for a megane or scenic the code is entered via the central locking button. Immolbilser codes are not inside the key!! The number on the key together with the chassis number when entered into a crypted Renault database then produce an immobiliser code.
Once you've got the immobiliser code there's a fiddly way of entering it via the central locking button inside the car - there's plenty of Google references to it. Even if you do that I've got a nasty feeling you might have to do it every time you want to start the car. I appreciate the financial problem but by far the best solution is to get the proper Renault plip key sync'd to the system. The car would have been originally supplied with 2 and a note of the immobiliser code!
Cruising along the M69 thismorning and came upon what looked like a car on fire on the other (Nth East bound) carriageway.
Now i might be mistaken, but the clouds of thick grey or very dark colour smoke seemed to be coming from the rear of a Luguna estate.
I shut off the aircon blower, but still could smell the fumes after passing, not the usual smell of car fire, this smelt like burning oil.
I think it's likely that the engine was consuming its own sump oil, possibly by turbo failure of some sort.
I've only seen similar to this once before when i saw a Discovery 1 sitting on the side of a dual carriageway revving itself to death..but that i seem to recall was white smoke, which i believe would be pure excess diesel and not oil being burnt.
Wasn't there a problem with seals going on Discovery/Defender fuel pumps that could cause this?
I may well be wrong..much to the amazement of regulars here..;)
Now i ruminated over this for a while as you do and tried to work out the best way to stop this occurring once a diesel engine has started to consume itself, i have a theory which would require nerves of steel and would probably be impossible in an automatic.
Before i make meself look a bigger fool than usual does anyone else have any ideas?
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i assume you mean without using the brakes at the same time? if you have your right foot on the brake to the floor and your left on the clutch and the handbrake on as hard as you can and dump the clutch in 5th or 6th the engine WILL stall, it's not making the power it should and the car has 1300kg+ of weight to start moving in top gear and all the brakes on hard.
I got a honda jazz on a o3 plate a 1.4 dsi, and the car went to the dealers for its annual service, they lent me a mark 2 jazz a 1.2 vtec se.
My impression of driving the mk2 is that engine wise it got a similar performance to the 1.4 idsi, when driving in local area the old jazz is more drivable due to its higher torque under 3000 revs, on the motor way the new vtec comes on its own when you go above 3000 rpm it tends to go a bit more faster.
Plus points for the new shape jazz more space, better visibilty especialy the front quarter light windows, double glove box, the boot bigger, engine is quieter, negative points are i dont like the idea of no spare tyre, the old jazz had a handy boot cover you slide it and it rolls, but the new one they took that away, the interior quality of the new jazz is downgraded, especially the top of the dash, some of the plastic feel cheap, the dash itself got some gimmicks, like the miles left to service, if you drive the vtec gently then it will reward you with 50 mpg figures however if you thrash it then the mpg falls, in my opinion the old idsi engine is more economical cos even if you thrash it the fuel economy does not fall as bad as the vtec.
I am in two minds about trading my current car, maybe think of trading it in for the facelifted 05 models onwards or wait for the hybrid jazz.
wish honda introduced a 1.5 vtec engine for it, or a diesel like the current 2.2. dtec, maybe they just chop it and put a 1.6 lump in it.
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and wait for it bill payer a intermittent rear wiper
You've obviously read my previous comments on this! I don't think even the new Jazz has an intermittant rear wiper.
We looked at getting a new one 12-18mths ago - I think they do ride quite a bit better. But we didn't like "updated" the dash / radio controls etc - it looked like they'd commissioned Amstrad to design it.
I forgot to put the pass in my window last night when i parked up been greeted this morning by a £120 "Civil Penalty charge notice" what does this mean? i'm fine so long as i ignore all coraspondense or i have to pay up? Never mind i've been parking on the estate for the last 2 months in this car everytight with a pass....
Bopttom line says" You are therefore required to pay a civil penalty of £120 within 28 days. The charge will be reduced to £75 if paid within 48 hours or £100 if paid within 14 days"
Many thanks Read more
The estate is a housing associaton one and the housing association setup there aggreement with
the parking company after we said we would like some form of policing and then
as i said above they got in someone who clamps and fines instead of actually
keeping the spaces clear of unwanted cars whats the use of your space if someone
elses car is clamped in it and can't be moved?
Then there is your answer to your problem... You as residents have asked for the policing, if you don't like what they are doing get hold of your local Housing Association rep and have a few polite words.
hi
i have 51 plate Astra and my engine light keeps coming on, i have taken it to a main Vauxhall dealer and they have done the computer test and the fault code is saying coil pack fault. this has been done 4 times and changed 4 times and yet after a set time and normally if i hit speeds of 70mph or over its comes back on.
when the light comes on it will flash the car will lose power but after about 30 seconds will go back to normal speed and when the car is turned off and then turned back on the light has gone out, however i know the car is still in limp mode.
Can any one suggest what othe causes may be making my coil pack to keep fail as its the only fault code that is registering??
Please help its doing my head in!!!
engine ? Read more
These can suffer with poor pin contacts in the coil pack connector(end of coil pack).You need to ensure the pins are clean and tight.Replacing the coil pack probably fixes it for a while because the contacts have been "wiped" during disconnection then re-connection.Also does engine have correct oil spec?HTH
I am experiencing electrical / electronic problems with my M-B 1998 C250 TD Esprit estate. The central locking system, front windows, rear view mirrors randomly stop functioning over a period of days. I found that by removing the approp[riate fuse (s) and replacing them (same fuses) temporarily soved the problem. Recently, when the malfunction has occurred I`ve resorted to disconnecting the positive terminal of the battery for some ten minutes or so and then reconnecting. This again solves the problem for a few days. I`ve had it suggested that the problem may lie with a relay but the Haynes manual does not identify the relays or their functions.
Any advice / suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks. Read more
i have a similar problem, and to get round the problem i have been disconnecting and reconnecting the positive terminal when ever the problem surfaces and everything starts working fine. I have a spare complete lock set and if i put the spare complete lockset on the car the problem goes away and that rules away the door control modules. i m still trying to figure out what exactly is wrong with my original lockset.
Part-worn tyre on a spare rim. How much to remove it, & fit to a rim from another car, removing the tyre from the "new" rim first?
So:
Remove tyre from rim X.
Remove tyre from rim Y.
Re-fit tyre from rim X to rim Y.
Any ideas ? :) Read more
when you take a tyre off a rim you will notice part of the bead
will be stuck to the rim....
.
.
.
.
you can now see why tyre bays dont want to fit s/h tyres as they
are a liability
So by that logic, repairing punctures is a no-no too?
Browse
I don't think that thread gives a very balanced view. Many of them have got themselves into negative equity and are blaming someone else for it. We already know from the above that they will sometimes (maybe always) offer less when you turn up than they quoted on line.
They have been around a while, so they can't be all bad.