June 2009
It seems generally accepted that the de facto speed limit on motorways is 80mph, against the de jure limit of 70. Police cars certainly seem to ignore infringments. Yet "CL", writing in HJ's Telegraph page yesterday ( "Statue of Liberty" ) has received a Notice for 79 mph on the M6 in Cumbria. Has anyone else ben done for exceeding 70?
"CL" also indicates that there are speed cameras mounted on bridges. I have seen these but thought they were for flow control information. I have only seen small black ones. If speed cameras, shouldn't they be yellow? Do they flash? Read more
So, after much deliberation at the end of last year I ended up replacing my company BMW 530d with?another BMW 530d. I?d actually inherited the first car when I changed jobs from someone who used the opportunity to ?upgrade? to an Audi Q7, though quite why he considered a change from the finest handling mid size saloon on the planet to a boat on wheels to be an upgrade is something I can only speculate on. Anyway, the BMW had 120,000 km on the clock when I collected it and, when it went back 6 months later, had covered a total 150,000km in its 3 years, apparently without any problems and the interior still looked virtually new.
After looking at options including C6, Audi A4/A6, Jaguar XF, Merc C/E-Class, Lexus IS/GS, VW Passat CC, Skoda Superb and BMW?s own 3-Series I eventually went for another 530d on the basis of highly competitive leasing rates (I get a monthly budget to spend) and the fact that even after 6 years it is just much better to drive than any of its competitors. I ordered an automatic estate version with a long list of options including the ?Exclusive? edition which gives you loads of nice goodies like metallic paint, heated comfort seats, nappa leather, park distance control and xenon much cheaper than if you ordered them separately. It rather spoils the effect by also including chromed windscreen washer jets which look like they just escaped from a Cadillac Escalade and which cannot be deleted when ordering.
The only option I regret not specifying for the sake of a few Euros is the automatic opening/closing tailgate as the handle got really dirty during the winter. I?m also having second thoughts about the light wood trim, which I specified guessing (correctly) that the cabin would otherwise be very dark with the black ambience interrupted only by the seats whose shade is described rather unfashionably as ?tobacco?. The overall effect with the various metal knobs is more late baroque than 21st century sports saloon.
When I picked up the car 5 months ago I noticed a few things had changed since the previous one left the Munich factory. When you unlock the car, the rear LED lights and front day running lights as well as LEDs under the door mirrors illuminate slowly and elegantly. The resulting light show is very impressive. Less impressively, BMW has replaced the traditional key with a heavy piece of plastic which you have to put into a slot in the steering column before pressing an engine start button on the dash. I asked the sales guy who showed me round the car what the advantage of this system was compared to, well a key. He couldn?t think of one, but my 13 year old nephew is impressed by the imparted feeling of superior thunderbird style gadgetry. He is also impressed by the similarly useless but technologically nice one touch gear selector.
So, ?Start? button pressed, engine roars into life - literally. Wow, big difference to the old one - no empty diesel rattle here, this one sounds loud and powerful and reminds me of my old E46 M3 at idle. Into Drive, accelerator foot to the floor and then brake suddenly, slightly alarmed. Where is the turbo-lag? This engine revs and offers torque instantly, a big and unexpected improvement over the old one.
Onto the i-Drive. I liked the old i-Drive, the simple top level menu hiding bewildering complexity underneath had an element of the old GEM graphical user interface from the 80s Atari home computers about it. The new one just has a boring list of selectable options like everyone else. Brilliant graphics though, and instantaneous response which you could never accuse the old of. In place of the big simplistic selector wheel there is now a selector wheel surrounded by buttons like on a 3-Series which makes navigation through the menus much easier but spoils the minimalist appearance of the old one.
Connecting my iPod necessitated a trip to the dealer along with much cursing to buy an additional cable, but if I?d RTFM to begin with I would have discovered that you can actually upload music from a memory stick directly onto the i-Drive hard drive. Also loads of new functions, including internet access via a Google application which allows you to while away the time in traffic jams by reading news bulletins and checking the weather. There is also voice control but, sadly, this is a german spec car and it doesn?t understand my English german accent. ?Navigation? I barked at it and it responded by phoning my wife!
As I said before, the E60 is just simply the best handling midsized car on the planet. The agility, neutral handling and steering response are amazing and make me wonder what its successor due in autumn will be like. The ride quality on the runflats is not as good as the air suspension equipped Mercedes E320 a colleague has, but better than an Audi A6 or Lexus IS250 for example. At speed though, like the old one, it manages to be very quiet and relaxed and I drove 2,000km in 2 days last week without any adverse affects on my notoriously weak back. The comfort seats are spectacularly comfortable. Having also had to transport both the parents and the outlaws around the scenic parts of southern Germany I can testify that 4 passengers plus luggage can travel in comfort and, apart from the aforementioned taste aberrations, style.
Fuel economy is less of an issue these days than it was in August last year when I ordered the car, when a litre of diesel cost 1,50 Euros. Now it?s less than 1 Euro. I?m getting between 6.3l/100km and 7.0l/100km according to the computer which equals 37 ? 46mpg. More importantly I get around 1,000km between fill ups which justifies my decision for the diesel version over the petrol. I actually think this level of fuel efficiency is amazing for a 1 1/2 ton six cylinder 240bhp car with an automatic gearbox.
The first service is looming in a few thousand kms. Up to now the engine has consumed around 1 litre of mega-expensive long life oil. I am always a bit uneasy about these long life service intervals offered by BMW, but as long as they are happy meeting any potential warranty obligations then that?s fine by me.
So, overall I?m very happy with my choice. We?ll be spending a lot of time together the 530d and I as I cover around 50,000 ? 60,000km a year. I don?t anticipate any problems, but if I experience anything I?ll report it. I?ve owned cars in my life that cost several hundred pounds and turned out to be completely reliable, I don?t accept anything less from a new car, especially one this expensive.
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I'm assuming your suspension set-up is what they call SE over here rather than M-Sport?
Yes, it's not the M-Sport suspension, that is an expensive and back breakingly hard option.
The dealer actually offered me a cancelled order which looked good on paper at a massively reduced monthly lease. When I went to look at it it had lowered M-Sport suspension, an M-Sport body kit, 19 inch alloys and was finished in something called Carbon Black, which was reminiscent of the colour they paint the underneath of helicopter gunships. If you can imagine the batmobile as an estate car you have some idea what it looked like. I declined the offer.
Oh and surely you can paint those Cadillac headlamp washer nozzles??
Actually I just let the car get so dirty noone can see them ;-)
Hi:-
Car: Vectra
Year: 2004
Engine: 2.0 dti (y20dth) 135000+ miles
I am having problems with my car.. I was coming home from work this afternoon, when the exhaust emissions light came on and the car lost almost all power and acceleration.
Also this morning the fuse for the windscreen wipers blew. As there are two fuses for the wipers i swapped them round. But then after driving round for a bit the engine management light came on, so i stopped and turned the car off. After restarting the light came back on again, so i stopped and swapped the fuses back again. And when i drove off the exhaust light came on.
Any ideas on what the problem could be ?? Read more
most usuall culprit on this engine is air leaks on the very small vac pipes, there is a pump on the end of the engine start here and follow all the pipes that "t" off from it the other thing that you need to check is that it has plenty of oil in the engine (the pumps need a good supply of oil, if they dont you loose vacumn) check these things first and post what you find, Regards TB
While diving at seventy the car started loosing power and then began misfiring badly and wouldn?t accelerate. I pulled over into a lay-by a few hundred metres down the road. Popped the bonnet and was greeted by a strong smell of burning antifreeze an empty coolant bottle and a very hot engine. Took the air filter assembly off to reveal a split hose between the heater matrix and engine.
RAC guy stretched the hose to re-fit and filled the bottle back up with water and off I went. Fitted new hose and antifreeze and had system vacuum filled next day. The car drives as well as before, acceleration is good and it doesn?t loose any water or oil and there is no contamination between the two, so the head gasket seems ok. I have driven about 4k since the overheating and there is a slight misfire or hesitation noticeable around 3k revs when accelerating that wasn?t there before; no other symptoms or fault codes. I have changed the plugs to no avail, coil pack and leads changed last summer.
Can anyone offer any insight here before I go wasting money replacing random parts? I?m looking for a cheapish fix if possible!
Also (it?s a digital dash display for temp) why didn?t my gauge show the car was overheating! The cooling fan works fine, but he gauge never goes above normal.
Car: 53 plate 1.4 duratec 110k miles. DIY serviced oil and filter every 6k. One final thing, the Haynes manual states valve clearances should be checked at 100k, this hasn?t been done (sounds expensive!)
Thanks in advance
Graham.
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An update the my post - problem solved!
The hesitation problem was getting worse and so i removed the leads from the coil and it turned out that the hose that burst under the coil pack has sprayed coolant all over the coil and leads and although it had dried out some must have got on to the contacts on the coil where the leads go on as they were badly corroded. New coil pack and leads for £50 and it runs like new!
Still not worked out why the temp guage didn't go up, is there a sensor to replace somewhere?
I have had my 206 ECU remapped to 120bhp by someone. When he remapped it, he said it could've been done to 150bhp, but it would've wrecked the clutch and I would have had repair bills every week. However, after speaking to a Peugeot mechanic today, he said it wouldnt be a problem as he has seen one done and he said it drives well. Does anyone know if it would be safe to remap my Peugeot 206 2.0 HDI to 150bhp from 90bhp? Thank you in advance. Read more
Hi,
Be careful that your tuner knows what he's doing. Tuning common rail diesels can have great results but equally it's easy to destroy them too.
If your HDi was originally a 90 BHP I don't see how it could be remapped to 150 without serious modification.
Does your 206 have an intercooler? Even if it does how hot will the intake charge get running enough boost to achieve such power? What sort of EGT figures are we looking at? How much will it smoke? How would the clutch cope? Will it still pass it's emissions test?
I'd take a look at this forum and ask some questions first. One of the members did me a remap from 110 to 140 on my HDi.
www.chiptuners.org/
Steve.
Hello all
About 10 days ago I pulled or possibly partially tore the Achilles tendon in my right foot whilst playing squash. My GP thinks it may be a partial rupture and so advised me to be careful with it. Three days after the injury, I moved my car from the place where my squash partner had parked it for me to its usual spot in our residential car park. Even over this short distance, though, I found driving very unnerving - I found that when depressing my foot on the brake pedal for any period of time, my ankle would weaken and my foot would go limp and lose pressure on the pedal - like brake fade in the foot! The harder I pressed, the more my foot would resist.
I've therefore not driven for the last week, and have been making a painful and lengthy bus journey to work instead. I've been referred to the physio for further inspection of my foot and whatever treatment is necessary, but in the meantime, I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar experience. Is this common? Could you make adjustments while driving? How long did it last? A forum search finds someone who had a complete rupture in their left foot a few years ago, but that's all. Anyone had any right-foot troubles?
Obviously only I can judge whether or not I'm safe to drive, but it would be useful for me to know if this is par for the course, and how long I can expect before I get better. Thanks. Read more
If you have a foot in plaster, then you shouldn't drive, apart from the fact that any unnecessary strain on the injury will more than likely only delay recovery.
I broke a bone in my right foot six years ago and drove myself to the A and E department.
It was X-rayed and then the foot was put in plaster. I was asked how I had got to the hospital and told not that I shouldn't drive, but that I couldn't. End of story.
In fact the doctor involved followed me out to ensure that I didn't drive and was quite prepared, he said, to phone the police if necessary...:-)
My younger offspring, who lives some distance away, eventually had to come and pick up my car after I had got home by taxi, having realised quite quickly that any attempt to drive was out of the question
Thinking of buying a E46 but dont which engine model to go for, 323i or 325i or 328i, i'am looking at 98/99/2000 models for around 3-4k. Read more
Looks like the 323 is the one to get.
Hi I would like some advice?
I recently bought a peugeot 308 hatch, bought new and now it has done just over 20000kms. A fault registered on the LCD screen advising "Depollution System Faulty" and the service centre advised this was due to a temperature sensor that was faulth and needed replacing, they also did a forced re-generation. They confirmed that they resolved the issue. 2 days later my electric side mirrors have now locked up and will not open when I unlock the car. Can someone please provide me some advice on this? Does anyone know of any faults in this model? Thanks Read more
hi i believe i need to replace my indicator stalk. It turns itself on (indicating left) intermitantly. If i push the stalk into the steering column. hold for a few seconds and then let ago. it often stays off as it should do. Or failing that i have to drive with a pen or my finger pushed hard at a spot at the base of the stalk. That works but is a bit inconvenient when i try to change gear! So i'm just about to buy a new one.
BUT how to replace it! The Haynes manuals for xsara's stop at W reg. (you have to use a haynes 4281 a general citroen diesel manual for the engine only)
I've been told replacing indicator stalks on citroens can be right horror show!
Any ideas or should i put it in a garage. Read more
thanks
yes facelift model.
But its an indicator/ lights/ horn switch (fog lights but my car not fitted with them)
The wiper is on the other stalk (fortunately mine has no computer end button fitted)
Is it still the same work?
Anyone seen these people?
I saw the link in a well known on-line motoring magazine. I thought I'd give it a try out of curiosity. Quoted me £10,010 to buy my C4 Picasso 2L hdi egs Exclusive.
Obviously that quote relates to a car they have not seen and relies on honest answers from you when you go through their questions on line.
Not sure what happens when you get to one of their drop off points and how much they may try to carve off the initial price.
One thing that would worry me is that you are expected to give them the car, the keys and all paperwork and then receive payment by BACS some 4 or 5 days later. If you paid extra you could receive a next days BACS payment. In these straightened times, I would worry during the gap between leaving my car and getting my money.
I have read mixed reviews about them. I do wonder whether they quote an initial high price to whet your appetite and capture your interest because when I was looking to p/x the car a couple of months ago, I was offered nowhere near that amount. Read more
I don't think that thread gives a very balanced view. Many of them have got themselves into negative equity and are blaming someone else for it. We already know from the above that they will sometimes (maybe always) offer less when you turn up than they quoted on line.
They have been around a while, so they can't be all bad.


I agree with variable limits too.
The fact is a fixed speed limit is a nonsense. There are times when it is perfectly safe to do 100 mph on a motorway, and times where it is unsafe to do 50 mph. I know the law needs to draw a line somewhere, but I would be happy to adhere to say a 60 mph limit in wet conditions, if I could do a genuine 80 (85 indicated) with impunity in dry conditions.