April 2009
I really must get around to selling one of my cars. Still not 100% sure which one but I really should get one of them away.
Can't be bothered with a private sale so faced with the options of touting cars round dealers, going to one of those "we buy your car for a pittance" outfits or maybe auction.
In the scheme of things I'm not too bothered about getting top dollar but I don't want to give the car away either.
I know suresell has worked for some people and HJ has recommended them in the past.
Anyone with other suggestions or indeed confirmation that one of these is the line of least resistance?
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Had this petrol car for about 3 years now. When I got it it was running cold all the time according to the gauge and heater output, top hose getting warm very quickly, so I replaced the thermostat. It improved markedly for just a few months and went downhill again gradually.
So about a year later I replaced the thermostat again. Same thing - improved for a few months then gradually running cold again.
I am currently running with 2 modified carpet tiles blanking off most of the radiator, meaning it warms up in about 3-8 miles (instead of never) and then runs at about the right temperature mostly, but it does run hot enough for the fan to cut in regularly if I get stuck in traffic or when coming to lower speeds off the motorway. This isn't ideal, or good for the engine or my wallet.
Has anyone had similar problems and found a cure? Both replacement thermostats have been QH branded ones purchased from a major high street motor accessory store, but I can't believe identical failure patterns and times in batches that must be from separate manufacturing runs.
Alternatively does anyone know of a different thermostat which fits the CVH housing and is more reliable? Or just try a motor factors instead of the high street?
Thanks. Read more
I'll check that at the weekend then, but as that hose goes from the top of the thermostat housing across to the header tank and is only about 5mm bore, I don't see how it would get the rad and the rad top hose hot from startup in just a couple of minutes. It's a separate loop of the circuit so it can't feed into the radiator loop. The radiator does get hot from the top hose side, not the headertank one, so it isn't as if that water is somehow backflowing with a closed thermostat.
I'm not sure how you'd replace a plastic ball there anyway, wouldn't it drop out of the thermostat housing into the block? Or is the hole in the thermostat housing big enough to put it in but the hole for the feed from the block is smaller so it doesn't drop through?
Tried to open the passenger door on SWMBO's Punto t'other day; using inside handle, seems now to have gone "over centre" and the door will not open.
The push-button was down, and I assumed that it would pop up upon operating the interior door handle, but it seems to have jammed , leaving said interior handle sticking out at 90 degrees to door. It will not open from the outside with the key either.
Before I get the gas-axe or angle-grinder out (I hate working on door mechanisms!) any ideas as to how to proceed please? Read more
Roll down the window and remove the seal at the top of the door (bottom of window) and you may have enough room to be able to look down into the door. I would start there. It sounds like the locking button has been in between the open and closed position when tring to open it causing it to jam.
I do like the colour of the Grand Scenic in the Road Test - just the same colour as Dad's old Renault 16TS way back when.
One question. Does the new Scenic have a spare wheel (even just a spacesaver) or do the folding rear seats condemn it to a can of gunk and compressor like the S-Max? C4 Grand Picassos (without air suspension) manage a spare. Read more
IN the scenic its a 400 quid option, not easy to nick, but no you cant transfer it. You can update it with an sd card tho.
Hi All,
A request for help in diagnosing the following:
Today whilst accelerating on joining a roundabout my zetec fiesta started 'kangarooing' quite violently as if I was in much too high a gear. I changed down and carried on home but the car now sounded quite 'rough' and had definitely lost power. Once home I had a quick look in the failing light but could not see anything immediately obvious wrong in the engine area (bits hanging off etc!). The engine still starts OK but still runs 'rough' and 'lumpy' and you can here a pronounced 'pulsing' from the exhaust. The exhaust has also moved as the tailpipe now just touches the rear bumper and has melted it slightly but I could not see if it had come off a hanger.
Any ideas? Can toothed timing belts slip? Is there an easy way to see if the timing is out or does it sound more of a mechanical failure?
Thanks in advance,
Mark Read more
Hi All,
Turned out it was the ignition coil pack - cylinder 4 was not firing at all. £15 later from local scrapyard and all running OK again.
Thnaks for the heads up.
The exhaust fouling/melting the rear bumper turns out to be because the rear silencer box is bent! There is a huge crease in it so it is somewhat banana shaped! I guess when the car was viooently kangarooing etc then somehow it was bent - wierd as it was defintiely OK before that and I have not reversed into anything.
Cheers
Mark
This week my clutch pedal started getting stuck about half way on the return from depressing the pedal. Initially just in the morning and the spring could overcome the sticking and the pedal "pinged" back into place.
Now it's happening nearly all the time and I have to pop the pedal back up with my foot after I've depressed it. Booked in next week, any ideas what it could be? I'm assuming perhaps slave cylinder (hopefully cheapish) rather than clutch itself (expensive)... Read more
Thanks for the above. It was the clutch master cylinder apparently - all sorted.
Hi All
Once again, I seek your invaluable expert advice :-)
About 9 months ago I had my car serviced by Vauxhall, and they replaced the front discs and pads.
Although they worked, and stopped the car fine they where never as sharp as they used to be (pedal seems ?softer?) however I just put it down to a different brand of pads, however the car stops perfectly fine.
Anyhow recently when applying the brakes they have developed a very slight squeal, I thought this would disappear over time if the discs/pads where dirty etc however it hasn?t. It?s the same tone/volume of squeak all the time, and there is (AFIK) no degrade in performance.
The pads/discs should be covered under warranty, however before I ring up Vauxhall and ask them to take a look and fix, I was wondering if I could have some advice/thoughts 1st.
Many Thanks, in Advance
Ste
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Hi All, thanks for the replys.
When was the last time the brake fluid was changed it does deteriate over time
and I should be changed every 2-3 years or so. it does absorb moisture over
time which would make the brakes feel more spongey. Although if you drive the car
regularly may not be noticeable.
Im not sure exactly at the moment, but the car (with the expection of one year) has always been serviced at a main dealer, as I dont have all the docs with me at the moment I can only assume that it would have (if it has) been done in accordence with Vauxhalls recommendation
I have phoned the main Vauxhall dealer and they said they would check the brakes and discs (and give the car "a free health check") however if all it needs is a clean, and the copper grease... they would charge me a hours labour (which if all it needs is a clean i can probs do it myself, im not paying for a hours labour)
however ill report back thanks for your help guys :-)
Ford is introducing the Fiesta in USA. Marketing by web 2.0
blog.wired.com/cars/2009/04/how-the-fiesta.html
What do you think? Read more
If it increases sales and improves the economy then I'm all for it.
Has anyone heard more of the ENP initiative (RFID in number plates *or the vehicle itself*),
mentioned in:
www.dvla.gov.uk/media/pdf/other/enp_report.pdf
? Read more
Though I do wonder what is going happen with photographic evidence when the inevitible happens and it is proved in court that a picture has been altered.
This isn't mine, I don't sell cars and I have no connection with the car or the seller but - Wotta Lotta Mota! www.myvolvos60.co.uk/ Read more
The coolant level in the header tank looks rather low or is that the right
level on one of these?
No that's the right level. Mine caught my eye when I first looked at it too.
Browse
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an estate car is always preferable to a saloon /hatchback to most house holders/family types that have to transport sundry items for ever to tip/shop /university/DIY.
I would always keep teh estate, it worth pennies anyway. five year old car is basicallya banger, but I am hoping my 9 year old will be worth £2K next week!!!!