January 2009

mark(NEScotland)

1.4 hdi diesel; recommended mileage for change? No mention in handbook.

Thanks Read more

FocusDriver

Hi there, I hope someone might be able to help.

My Focus as of late last week has developed a problem and I'm wondering whether it's something anyone else has experienced.

When crawling along busy urban road in 1st gear for a couple of minutes, when I depress the clutch pedal, the engine revs up a little from about 1000 revs to 2500-3000 for a few seconds before returning to normal. One pedestrian who I gestured to cross the road seemed unwilling given that he thought I was revving deliberately.

There doesn't seem to be any lag or slippage when accelerating though, only some increase in revs when pressing in the clutch.

Could this be anythig to do with an automatic choke? Or is ti possible that my clutch is about to conk out on me?

1999 T reg 1.6 with 65,000 on the clock.

Any thoughts gratefully received - will return about 9pm as I have to go out. I hope I've posted all necessary details.

Thanks
FD Read more

ChicksFan

At least you've let us know. You're not stupid at all, sometimes it is the simplest things - and we look at the difficult possible solutions first.

Glad you've sorted it - a cheap enough repair !

willywombat

Please help.

My 1993 Nissan Terrano 2.7 Turbo Diesel wont always start from cold. It either starts fine or takes ages of turning it over before producing clouds of unburnt fuel then starting, more often its the latter.

I had the AA out who said there was no power to the glow plugs and gave me a can of easy start, which works but is no long term solution.

The glow plug relays look fine with no corrosion at terminals and sound as if they are clicking on and off ok, the glow plug light on the dash comes on as normal aswell. The starter motor and battery are both recent so i dont think its them. I have been told to check the earth from the wiring loom but dont know where to find it.

The car was in the garage for two weeks having other work done but for the whole two weeks started fine so they couldnt investigate the problem.

The fact that sometimes it works sometimes it doesnt suggests to me that it is an electrical problem - any suggestions. Read more

Railroad.

Just go a bit careful with Easy Start as serious damage can occur otherwise. If you're going to use it at all then spray it in very small amounts. If the engine ever starts knocking then stop. A totally safe way to start an old diesel is to use a hot air gun in the air intake for a few seconds prior to cranking. This cannot do any harm at all.

delyth

A discussion on a forum documented in Daily Mail about the above subject for Safiras from 2005. Our Safira 2.0 TDI 52 plate has the engine fault that causes a warning light on dashboard and the engine rapidly slows and goes into 'limp home mode'. Complained under warrantee to Vauxhall garage (who contacted Vauxhall direct) in 2004 that this was the problem. But refused to help. Have tried to sort it at numerous garages to no avail over years.
So so dangerous. Examples on M5 North near Jnt 3 hill- overtaking lorry cut from no more than 70 to 45 mph in seconds. 3 kids on board. Also happened unexpectantly on M4, M6. Smaller jounreys also. Tried to replicate to get it into garage unfortunately not possible. The garages have always said need to have red warning light on- it never stayed on.
Vauxhall should recall all vehicles- they have got to be aware of the complaints over years. Read more

Pugugly

I think it probably is - will link it later.

jcg

Hi
I have a few warning lights suddenly on my dash..the battery came on plus the electrics one and so I had both battery and the alternator tested. Alternator fine, battery a bit low, so changed that.
No difference. Lights still on and now the radio/CD is in 'safe' mode. I am loathe to go to the Vauxhall garage to sort this. Can anyone shed any light for me please? I am trying not to be a typical female driver lol ;-)
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jcg

Dave, yes I read that in the hand book.
I must admit my air con doesnt work cos i didnt use it regularly enough...didnt think it was an essential. I will have it hooked up on thurs and see what it shows.
thanks again.

thomp1983

morning folks, my e34 535 sport is refusing to start. it has been parked up for quite awhile as ive been doing some work on the interior. it has only been started up and ran for roughly 5 minutes a time a handful of times when ive needed to turn it around for access.

went to start it up the other day and it just turned over and spluttered but would not actually catch and fire, my first thoughts were the engines flooded through lack of use so i pulled the fuel pump fuse and plugs which were black and soaked with fuel, i cleaned the plugs up and left them to dry for roughly 12 hours. before refitting i put a couple of drops down each bore to aid compression. after turning the engine over for a serious amount of time there is no sign of starting at all. so yesterday afternoon i pulled one of the plugs and earthed it to the block, upon turning over there is no spark. i have removed the dizzy cap and cleaned the contacts up and also cleaned the rotor arm as best i can (it doesn't look in the greatest condition but someone's stripped the allen key bolt holding it in so ill have fun trying to remove it later) but would either of these parts just fail from a lack of use? ive checked there is voltage and earth at the coil which there is so now im at a loss as to what to try next?

cheers Read more

thomp1983

well after all the usual trials of ebay an identical ecu arrived in the post this morning, and the verdict is there is now spark at the king lead! so now i just need to pick up a rotor arm this afternoon and all should be running again.

thanks for all the help guys,
chris

James_Jameson

I have had a Yaris 1.4D4D from new (11,000 miles now) and would like to change the gearbox oil but, because it's still under warranty would prefer to get the main dealer do do the work. However, they insist the latest Yaris does not ever need a gearbox oil change. I said, I would still prefer it done, but they say "no need, it's got special oil that doesn't break down" etc etc. They claim even not to know the specification of the oil (as I said I still want it changed, saying the oil may not break down but it can still get "swarf" from a new gearbox.).
So, does anyone know the correct oil type to use? (I'll do the work myself, assuming Toyota provide drain and refill plug holes in the gearbox casing!) Read more

Fullchat

My Sorento is coming up 4 years old in May with 32 K on the clock. Collecting 3rd gear downwards 5th to 3rd was getting 'sticky'.
I had the gearbox oil changed and its smmoth as silk now.
SWMBO's 05 Focus, 38K, has similar issues and a gearbox oil change is on the cards. I'm hoping for similar results.

wooliewoo

Hi, just had some work done on the car, the battery was removed so now the radio/CD player isn't working and its asking for codes.

Can anyone help me out with these? Its just we lost the manual ages ago (thing was left on the roof when we drove off!) so have no idea!

Cheers! Read more

wooliewoo

Thanks everyone, finally got round to sorting this out today.......such an easy job, unfortunately the code was not on the back of the set as we had hoped, but went onto the site DP posted and got the code for a total price of £4.99, what a bargain, 5 mins later the radio was up and running again!!

Job well done!!

Thanks all!

doctorchris

One tyre on our Honda Jazz has a nail in it which is very close to the edge of the tread, therefore the tyre fitter may not be able to repair it.
The tyres all still have 5mm of tread (I swap them round, so fronts and rears are equally worn).
As the car does a low mileage I plan to just replace the punctured tyre with one of the same make.
Would others on the forum do this? Read more

quizman

Andrew, they mend the puncture, rebalance it, fit it back on your car and pocket the £10.
Simple capitalism.

puppet

I own a 2000 Audi A6 2.4 SE Avant which is great for 364 days a year, but then I have to take it to the garage. I know I have to stomach the expense and have to sort out insurance and tax in the next month, and need to get it serviced and MOTd now. Money is too tight to mention (couldn't really afford the car, but have never been able to afford to change it as I need it pretty much every day, and never had the cash to be able to facilitate such an operation). Been scrimping and saving (and stressing) since the end of the summer in order to afford to get it all done ? let's just say there was no Christmas for me! Well, last week the time came and I took it to a new garage (after the feeling that my previous one had been ripping me off), hoping for everything to be straightforward, although not necessarily expecting it to be so. Diagnostic and MOT first and the news was bad; words like 'catastrophic' and 'uneconomical to repair' were not what I wanted to hear. The most sickening thing about this was that almost all the things that caused the 'fail' were work that had been, supposedly, done the previous year. Now I don't know what to do and the panic is setting in. I hope someone on the site (which has always been a place I've come for honest advice from John) can help confirm what I believe and maybe give some advice on where I go from here.

I want to give the full history of work done/not done as I think it tells it's own story, but for those who don't want to read all that, the basic questions are:

Should a track rod fail only 3600 miles after being replaced?
Should a CV gaiter fail after less than 6000 miles?
Should my rear brake pads come up for an advisory (wearing thin) after 9000 miles?

Now, for those of you with the time and interest to read, here is the history (I think it says a lot!):

August 2006 109,625 miles went to my local garage to do the work after finding out that gaiters, track rods, etc. needed to be done. Left a note with the garage as comprehensive as someone without all the lingo could manage (bearing in mind I see the front end as a single entity!):

'Front suspension rebuild (shocks don't need replacing though), so all tracking arms/wishbones, bushes plus all other ancillary bits needed for build. Front left CV joint. Rear discs and pads.'

Aside from servicing, MOT, etc., bill ended up as follows:

To replace rear brake discs and pads £185
To replace 1 x CV boot £120
To replace 1 x track rod end £113.50

Total bill £723

Next visit January 2008, less than 6k miles later and another MOT fail, reasons being:

Anti-lock braking system warning lamp indicates an ABS fault
Offside track rod end ball joint has excessive play
Nearside front constant velocity joint gaiter split
Offside front constant velocity joint gaiter split

I asked why he hadn't done both track-rod ends the last time and he very helpfully told me he was trying to 'save me money'. The ABS fault was not investigated because the warning light was intermittent, he didn't have the computer to do the diagnostic (apparently shares it with another garage), then put through MOT when the light wasn't flashing. Again aside from servicing, MOT, etc., bill ended up as follows:

Replace 1 x (offside) track rod end £100
Replace 2 x CV gaiters £260

Total bill £774

Now to the present (finally)!

January 2009 118,773 miles. Thought I'd try a different garage after being singularly unimpressed by the previous oh so charitable attempts to save me money, just get a diagnostic and MOT so I knew where I stood (bearing in mind the tightness of my budget). I've given up expecting positive news from garages but was distraught when I received the call, then angry when given the reasons for the MOT fail:

Nearside and offside constant velocity joint excessively worn
Offside track rod end ball joint has excessive play
Anti-lock braking system warning lamp indicates an ABS fault
Nearside steering rack gaiter split
Advisory on rear brake pads 'wearing thin'

In spite of the new place being an Audi specialist, they didn't manage to give me a proper idea of what the ABS fault might be ('couldn't communicate with the computer'), but were scaring me with the fact it could be the pump, rather than just a sensor which I had hoped. This particular snippet of conversation was the one that brought up the horrible words (potential) 'catastrophic failure' for the ABS, and the suggestion that, to me is a very serviceable car, one that I drive conservatively (being an Audi, what else?), one that I HAVE to rely on suddenly being 'uneconomical to repair'. Couldn't believe it seemed to be exactly the same things all over again, things that had supposed to be done ? everything within the space of 9000 miles.

To me this truly is catastrophic. Can't afford to get the work done, can't afford to not get it done, can't afford to pick up a cheap 'beater' car to tide me over until all this is worked out.

If anybody here who has waded through this has any advice I would be hugely appreciative. Am I wrong to feel I have been horribly ripped-off? Have I good grounds for complaint? How do I get through this? Please, dear forum readers, HELP!
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the swiss tony

It's a bit late now I know but always ask them to retain the old
parts for inspection when you go to collect the car. That way they can't lie
so easily about whether they have replaced the parts or not.

good idea, except.... prove the parts are off your car!
better idea, is to ask to look under the car so you can see that the parts have been replaced - new parts will be clean and old bits dirty.