January 2009
Hello All,
Newbie to the forum and looking for some guidance! My Daughter's Punto sporting has developed a constant Oil Pressure warning light on. So far I've changed the Oil pressure switch, Oil and Oil filter,checked electrical connections ect, but to no avail. I've taken off the sump and cleaned the oil pickup strainer, but i'm stuck at the moment on trying to re-fit the bracket between the clutch housing and engine block on the left side. That aside, what i'm asking is if there might be any other causes to look at before i end up stripping out the Oil Pump. Other than the constant warning light, the motor is running grand. Thanks in advance.
Herro24 Read more
I'm fortunate and have been able to say at home today, but if you have to be out and about it todays snow, ice and particularly low tempertures, what would be the best car for the job? Read more
>>thin tyres concentrate pressure on a smaller area.
Not necessarily.
On last mot i had advisory notice "nearside & offside rear suspension arm bushes deteriorated". I have taken it to Toyota for quote to get work done who said they would be unable to replace bushes it would need both suspension arms replaced at a cost of £580 per arm plus labour. Is this correct? They said i would hear a knocking noise when bushes start to go which I now have but this seems to be from the front and a independant garage advised the only thing they could find wrong was worn anti roll bar bushes. Read more
Hi mrs johnson,
The yaris doesn't have any suspension arms as such, just a large beam axle, Those bushes are available individually at around £40-£50 per side plus labour, the labour however could be quite expensive as it's a fairly big job to complete, I believe the rear suspension would have to be dropped down. All that said, I have seen hundreds if not more! of these cars and have never replaced any ever. I wouldn't be too concerned at the moment, after all it's not failed and chances are 2-3 years down the line it still wouldn't fail, so I'd suck it and see if I was you. Hope this helps
Regards
Dave
Recently I have had some issues at start up. (02 model 26k miles)
I turn the key and I get a response as if the battery is flat. The clock etc then reset to zero.
Turn the key a second time and the car starts as normal but this time the child lock buttons are illuminated and the esp fails to work.
Have cheked the battery terminal and all is clean and tidy there.
Anyone else had this issue? Read more
Hi greenhut.
SQ
HI sigh
did you yours sorted??
Hi, my engine management light lit up at about 88k. The code reads "MAF malfunction". I replaced the maf with a genuine jag part but the light stayed on. I then removed the EGR and cleaned it thoroughly with carb cleaner. I also checked the 4 pin plug for the maf. At the moment i have the following symtoms:1. MIL iluminated. 2. Intermitant power loss/hesitation when accelerating between 1500 & 2000rpm. 3. Power loss accompanied by black smoke. 4. The car can sometime stall for no reason at junctions. 5. Sudden splutters and juddering while at constant speed in 5th gear, approx 1800rpm. 6. On the odd occassion the car won't rev past 2500rpm.
These fault are occuring more often. Other than that the car performs well, starts first attempt with no smoke, burns no oil and returns 42 - 45mpg on mixed cycle. There is also no whistle from the engine bay, suggesting the intercooler/pipe work is ok. The only thing i've noticed is corrosion on a few earthing points at the front of the engine bay, which i have yet to clean, and some type of sensor on the pipe from the intercooler to the egr which looks quite dirty (don't know what this is?). I blanked the egr of for a few weeks and this helped but the problem soon returned so i reconnected it. I've also been told that the wiring loom to the maf on the mondeo tdci (same engine) can stretch and crack but have yet to check this. Any other ideas?? Starting to loose hair over this!! Read more
check for broken wires in the MAF plug! very common fault.
I purchased my 04 TDCi 115 in Sept 07 and from the beginning the rear brakes would intermittantly squeal, but not under braking - if anything that stopped the problem. At it's next service in Mar 08 the local dealership advised me the discs were binding and so i had new ones fitted.
This seemed to cure the problem and then a few months later it started up again, so in Oct when i was having some other odds and sods done the dealership stripped and cleaned the brakes for me free of charge.
It's now starting up again and i'm wondering if anyone has any alternative suggestions as to what it might be?
Read more
Swaneagle - thanks for this. If you're right i will be so happy!
Hi, is it the auxilory belt that goes around the alternator and water pump, etc?? I thought it was the cambelt-STUPIIID! So, how do I change the Auxilory belt?
Also, the only pulley wheel which touches the the back side of the belt, is this the tensioner?
Thank you
{two questions asked merged into one} Read more
Last time I did it I just took the water pump pulley off (3 bolts). Depending on how tight yours is this may work.
Altenatively you need to slacken the pivot bolt on the underside of the alternator where it attaches to the engine; then slacken the top bolts on the engine and pivot arm. This will allow the alternator to pivot backwards and slacken the belt.
Noticed for sometime, whenever you go to a Auto car wash or one of these Hand car wash places. That after when the car has been cleaned they spray something that appears to be a wax or similar, then either blow dry or shammy dry.
Any clues as what it might be, as its difficult to remove from the Windsreen after. Read more
If you wash a car yourself, do a final rinse with a 2 gallon watering can with a fine rose, with blood heat warm water and a capful of dishwasher rinse aid. The water sheets off. Also useful if you hose blast an engine compartment, and then do above to avoid drying marks.
Hello,
My Accord 2.0 SE Auto (70,000) had been behaving perfectly up until a few weeks ago.
I had it serviced at my usual Honda dealer (as I have every time) and also had the cambelt changed at the same time as specified in the service details. When I picked the car up all was fine. The very next morning I drove off as usual and got a very big shock as the gearbox changed from 1st to 2nd gear. Instead of the usual smooth change it lurched forward and thumped into 2nd gear literally shoving myself and wife forward in our seats. It did this a couple more times from 1st to 2nd although I was much more gentle with the throttle so it wasn't quite so bad. From 2nd to 3rd was slightly jerky but not too bad. Once the engine started warming up (coolant gauge moving to warm) the problem disappeared and all changes were nice and smooth again. All was well until the next time I started from cold (after standing for several hours) and the same thing happened. Always for the first few minutes gradually easing as engine warmed up.
I returned the car to the dealer and left it overnight so they could try it with a totally cold start the next morning. The service manager admitted it was a little sluggish until warmed up but felt the gearchange was ok for a car of about 70,000 miles. He said they checked all that they had done at the service and cambelt change and everything was in order and all settings were correct. He said the gearbox hadn't been touched as the service didn't require it to have oil topped up etc.
Basically he said car was fine - no problem!
The problem did continue exactly as before. I should have gone back again but the dealer is some 45 miles from where I live Croydon (misplaced loyalty to the garage I bought the car from) and I let it be and just put up with the problem.
Six weeks later over the Christmas period after a trip to Devon and back I drove the 3 miles or so to Croydon and the car was behaving worse. Even having warmed the gearchanges were jerky (all of them now) and occasionally it would pull away very sluggishly.
Finally I contacted my local Honda Dealer and took the car in for an early morning checkup again leaving the car overnight. I also noticed an ominous damp patch on my drive.
Next day the garage phoned and said there was no oil in the gearbox at all. It had pushed out of the drive shaft seal and the bearings in the gearbox were shot. They have sent it off for a £1700 rebuild.
Finally my questions are:
Could the original Honda garage have done something to cause the gearbox to fail?
After all the car was fine until the very day after the cambelt change and service. Is anything they would do at the service likely to cause the original symptoms?
Do I have a leg to stand on if I go back to them and complain or even go to Honda themselves?
It seems to me more than just a coincidence that the problem occured straight after the service and now the gearbox is damaged.
Any suggestions would be most welcome.
Thanks for reading all this.
DJS Read more
Hey djs
Just been reading your forum posting - Ive got the same problem, and its just after a service by a Honda Dealer, summin strange going on here?
Did you ever get to the bottom of this problem, do you know why it happened just after the service?
Your advice would be appreciated, just cant afford a new gear box - could a stitch in time save my gear box? Any tips?
Cheers
WE
Was doing some shed clearing over the weekend, including lots of old pots and jars with unknown contents. Now the car absolutely stinks of creosote or something similar. I can't see any evidence of leakage anywhere so I'm hoping it's just "in the air". Leather upholstery btw.
Remembering something on a thread a few days back, I've put an opened bag of charcoal in the back foot well. Same thread also mentioned bowl of vinegar , which I shall also try. Anyone have any better suggestions please? (Yes, I was already thinking of selling it...!!) Read more
Get it written off and buy it back as a bargain. Do it up in your own time ?


I have tried attaching a meter to the wire that normally goes into the oil pressure switch and it says 17.2 when the meter was set to 200k. So not exactly a full on short but there is a reading there. Someone else who owns a similar car tested theirs and got a similar reading, so I think this is normal for the car?