January 2009
Interesting demo on tyre safety :
tinyurl.com/7kkunc
What do you reckon ? Read more
Hi there,
My timing chain needs replacing (The car is now cutting out) and my regular garage quoted me E1120. 2nd quote was E600 as it requires 2 chains, 3rd quote was E400 including a service - this guy said it only needs adjusting on the computer. Who do I believe? I dont want to pay E400 and end up going back to the original garage. Appreciate any help. Read more
Is this the model made up to 2003, or from 2003.
If the former, on the one I've done, I found all the wear to be on the middle chain wheel and top tensioner. The teeth were badly 'hooked'. The old chains seemed to have little if any wear.
I think I could have got away with changing just the middle chain wheel, and the top tensioner. That would certainly been enough to quieten it for quite a while.
Hello Folks.
Happy new year.
We are having more problems with our fiesta.
The headgasket was replaced under warranty on our 1.25 finnesse.
Now we are noticing that the oil cap and dipstick has signs of mayonaise on them.
Also when using the heater the temperature gauge goes down.
Martin Winters Read more
My old Cavalier showed symptoms during a cold February a couple of years ago - white smoke, mayo on oil cap - but I then used it for a long run on a warmer day and they cleared up. Still running fine when I sold it a couple of months ago!
I think very cold weather can cause condensation to form within the engine block, rather than it being your actual coolant leaking through. I would keep a close eye on your coolant level to see if you are losing any
Hello All,
Newbie to the forum and looking for some guidance! My Daughter's Punto sporting has developed a constant Oil Pressure warning light on. So far I've changed the Oil pressure switch, Oil and Oil filter,checked electrical connections ect, but to no avail. I've taken off the sump and cleaned the oil pickup strainer, but i'm stuck at the moment on trying to re-fit the bracket between the clutch housing and engine block on the left side. That aside, what i'm asking is if there might be any other causes to look at before i end up stripping out the Oil Pump. Other than the constant warning light, the motor is running grand. Thanks in advance.
Herro24 Read more
I have tried attaching a meter to the wire that normally goes into the oil pressure switch and it says 17.2 when the meter was set to 200k. So not exactly a full on short but there is a reading there. Someone else who owns a similar car tested theirs and got a similar reading, so I think this is normal for the car?
I'm fortunate and have been able to say at home today, but if you have to be out and about it todays snow, ice and particularly low tempertures, what would be the best car for the job? Read more
>>thin tyres concentrate pressure on a smaller area.
Not necessarily.
On last mot i had advisory notice "nearside & offside rear suspension arm bushes deteriorated". I have taken it to Toyota for quote to get work done who said they would be unable to replace bushes it would need both suspension arms replaced at a cost of £580 per arm plus labour. Is this correct? They said i would hear a knocking noise when bushes start to go which I now have but this seems to be from the front and a independant garage advised the only thing they could find wrong was worn anti roll bar bushes. Read more
Hi mrs johnson,
The yaris doesn't have any suspension arms as such, just a large beam axle, Those bushes are available individually at around £40-£50 per side plus labour, the labour however could be quite expensive as it's a fairly big job to complete, I believe the rear suspension would have to be dropped down. All that said, I have seen hundreds if not more! of these cars and have never replaced any ever. I wouldn't be too concerned at the moment, after all it's not failed and chances are 2-3 years down the line it still wouldn't fail, so I'd suck it and see if I was you. Hope this helps
Regards
Dave
Recently I have had some issues at start up. (02 model 26k miles)
I turn the key and I get a response as if the battery is flat. The clock etc then reset to zero.
Turn the key a second time and the car starts as normal but this time the child lock buttons are illuminated and the esp fails to work.
Have cheked the battery terminal and all is clean and tidy there.
Anyone else had this issue? Read more
Hi greenhut.
SQ
HI sigh
did you yours sorted??
Hi, my engine management light lit up at about 88k. The code reads "MAF malfunction". I replaced the maf with a genuine jag part but the light stayed on. I then removed the EGR and cleaned it thoroughly with carb cleaner. I also checked the 4 pin plug for the maf. At the moment i have the following symtoms:1. MIL iluminated. 2. Intermitant power loss/hesitation when accelerating between 1500 & 2000rpm. 3. Power loss accompanied by black smoke. 4. The car can sometime stall for no reason at junctions. 5. Sudden splutters and juddering while at constant speed in 5th gear, approx 1800rpm. 6. On the odd occassion the car won't rev past 2500rpm.
These fault are occuring more often. Other than that the car performs well, starts first attempt with no smoke, burns no oil and returns 42 - 45mpg on mixed cycle. There is also no whistle from the engine bay, suggesting the intercooler/pipe work is ok. The only thing i've noticed is corrosion on a few earthing points at the front of the engine bay, which i have yet to clean, and some type of sensor on the pipe from the intercooler to the egr which looks quite dirty (don't know what this is?). I blanked the egr of for a few weeks and this helped but the problem soon returned so i reconnected it. I've also been told that the wiring loom to the maf on the mondeo tdci (same engine) can stretch and crack but have yet to check this. Any other ideas?? Starting to loose hair over this!! Read more
check for broken wires in the MAF plug! very common fault.
I purchased my 04 TDCi 115 in Sept 07 and from the beginning the rear brakes would intermittantly squeal, but not under braking - if anything that stopped the problem. At it's next service in Mar 08 the local dealership advised me the discs were binding and so i had new ones fitted.
This seemed to cure the problem and then a few months later it started up again, so in Oct when i was having some other odds and sods done the dealership stripped and cleaned the brakes for me free of charge.
It's now starting up again and i'm wondering if anyone has any alternative suggestions as to what it might be?
Read more
Swaneagle - thanks for this. If you're right i will be so happy!
Hi, is it the auxilory belt that goes around the alternator and water pump, etc?? I thought it was the cambelt-STUPIIID! So, how do I change the Auxilory belt?
Also, the only pulley wheel which touches the the back side of the belt, is this the tensioner?
Thank you
{two questions asked merged into one} Read more
Last time I did it I just took the water pump pulley off (3 bolts). Depending on how tight yours is this may work.
Altenatively you need to slacken the pivot bolt on the underside of the alternator where it attaches to the engine; then slacken the top bolts on the engine and pivot arm. This will allow the alternator to pivot backwards and slacken the belt.
Browse
"When I was 18, my first car was a Morris Ital (sporty version of Marina)"
This made me laugh so that my cat's sloped off somewhere, uncomfortable with the prospect of his afternoon nap being interrupted again.
I drove a B-reg Citroen BX diesel when I passed my test. My parents figured that no credibility, a top-speed of 98 mph and zero acceleration would be a "good mix". My palpable horror would have been placated by the thought of a possible "sporty version of a Marina".
My second car, a Saxo 1.4 lost its rear end on slimy roundabouts on two occasions, something repeated by a young colleague of mine who's 20 and has a similar model.